VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: VeroDubs on August 25, 2013, 01:08:31 pm
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Hey guys, fount this forum through VWVortex, and thought I would do my build thread here too as there is a wealth of knowledge here! I look forward to sharing and learning. -ERIK
8/19/13
So I am new to diesels, as in completely new. I have rebuilt 8v's and built aircooled's from the crank out. But don't have a clue what I am doing with this thing. :laugh:
I picked up this caddy a while ago and it had this motor sitting on the floor in the cab. So I yanked it out of there and stuck it in my garage on an engine stand, and thats where it sat! Till Saturday.
Heres the caddy in question-
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_0545.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_0545.jpg.html)
I finally am inspired to get my butt to work on the caddy. Been dailying my 87 GLI, but need to do some work on it too. So I need another vehicle running in order to take my GLI off the road.
I found this thread on a 1.6 rebuild on a budget, and I am sort of in the same boat. But I also like to do things right and once! So I will pony up a little more for parts if needed.
Link is now dead...
I started trying to clean the motor on Saturday and cranking it over with a wrench, when I noticed I could feel some binding. Not in the crank, but in the head. So instead of trying to clean it up, I decided to tear it down and start at the block. Check for cracks, clean and paint, then reassemble. I am a neat freak when it comes to engine bays, and like things to be clean.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5847_zps28942af5.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5847_zps28942af5.jpg.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5851_zps25d3a871.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5851_zps25d3a871.jpg.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5856_zps97b0f6be.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5856_zps97b0f6be.jpg.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5867_zpsde7d2040.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5867_zpsde7d2040.jpg.html)
While looking inside, I noticed that there are some metal shavings on the oil pump gear I believe. What does this look like to you guys?
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5860_zpsc63f6e42.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5860_zpsc63f6e42.jpg.html)
By the way, I am a photographer and love taking photos.... so my threads do not lack in that department.
My plans are to do a full rebuild, starting with a fresh, clean block. I have been reading on the electrolysis cleaning method for doing engine blocks and think I am going to go that route. Then I need to pick up the new rebuild stuff, which in the thread I linked, he list's as-
Info on electrolysis cleaning- http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4816475-Electrolysis-Cleaning-Tank&highlight=electrolysis (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4816475-Electrolysis-Cleaning-Tank&highlight=electrolysis)
Autohauz AZ
6050780581 Fuel Hose/Line; Braided Hose 3.2mm ID x 1.9mm Wall; Bulk $3.32
068130309 Fuel Hose/Line; Fuel Pipe from Filter to Pump $14.17
0009871145 Vacuum Hose/Line; Diesel Injector Overflow Line End Plug; Hose Plug $0.84
026103547 Valve Cover Oil Deflector $5.69
068109119E Timing Belt $14.43
068109243F Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley/Roller; Metal Roller $20.87
068103384A qty 10 Cylinder Head Bolt; 12x115mm total $17.40
068198012D Cylinder Head Gasket Set; Without Head Gasket $31.02
068103383AF Cylinder Head Gasket; 1.5mm 2 Groove $22.26
037198011C Block/Lower Engine Gasket Set $17.06
034105701 Connecting Rod Bearing Set; Standard with Journal Oil Holes $14.98
056198451A Main Bearing Set; Standard $37.99
068198151A Piston Ring Set; Standard 76.50mm $21.57
--Total to rebuild engine and head-- $221.60
From Bosch dealer:
0434250103 qty 4 injector nozzle total $80.40
dgk126 injection pump gasket kit $12.70
1460283312 injection pump radial seal $7.75
--Total to rebuild injection pump and injectors --$100.85
Is there any changes to this list I should make?
How about going to ARP head studs? I know I have the block with 11mm studs and they are prone to case cracking... but I have checked all the stud holes and do not see any cracks in the block.
So there it is, my opening post. I am open to any suggestions or things I need to look out for.
-ERIK
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8/25/13
Alright... I got the block completely stripped down.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5880_zps66a24ff3.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5880_zps66a24ff3.jpg.html)
Question #1- Should I remove the freeze plugs from the block and replace them? Or is that unnecessary?
I moved the block over to the tub where we are going to give the electrolysis cleaning a whirl. Since it wont cost me a thing to try! If it fails, then I will look for another method of cleaning. Not sure if it is going to remove the paint or not!
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5891_zps4570c7a3.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5891_zps4570c7a3.jpg.html)
Here is everything off the motor. I still need to track down the manifolds, a new water pump, alternator, and a few other odds and ends.
Question #2- One of the teeth on the cam gear is chipped, should I replace the gear?
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5881_zpse40cf552.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5881_zpse40cf552.jpg.html)
Question #3- Should I replace the oil pump? I have read arguments for both.
Laid everything out the way it came apart. Question #4- Is this necessary? Since I am replacing all the bearing and rings and going to hone the cylinders, do I need to keep everything the way it came out of the motor?
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5892_zps2a48b3f1.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5892_zps2a48b3f1.jpg.html)
Also scored a nice blasting cabinet off craigslist for $25... should help in cleaning up some of the parts!
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5889_zps7965848f.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5889_zps7965848f.jpg.html)
And the final Question #5- From my first post, should I go ARP hardware? I don't have intentions of boosting as of now. But I also am not greatly excited by the lack of power in the 1.6!
Question #6- also from previous post but with more involved now. The oil pump gear "rod?", does it have bearing pressed into the whole in which it spins? Is that where the metal shavings came from?
So that's where I stand for today. Gonna start putting the electrolysis tank together tomorrow. I have to stop and get my welder from a friend. Can't wait to see how it works on this block. The gunk on it is THICK!
And here's a pic that I took to make my new desktop... I just liked it! :beer:
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5897_zps692c62ac.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5897_zps692c62ac.jpg.html)
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The flakes are likely from the intermediate shaft bearings.
#1) If they are rusty at all I would replace them.
#2) Depends where the chip is. If you can find one easily/cheap I would.
#3) How to inspect the oil pump is in the Bentley. If it passes I would use it. I prefer real OEM compared to anything you can buy new today.
#4) not sure
#5) For a NA or ever stock boost level build I would go stock except on headstuds (since it's 11mm). I'd actually just find a 12mm block.
Make sure you measure everything and buy the proper bearings and also headgasket. Very, very important.
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We likes good pix. ;D
The shaft that drives the oil pump and vac pump is the Intermediate (or IM) shaft. It has two bearings that are driven-in with a hole aligned to the hole to the oil gallery. That bearing by the gear is shot (that's the shavings), and the front one is easy enough to replace regardless. Cheap insurance.
I would go studs, replace the oil pump, reseal the Injection Pump (IP), replace the freeze-plugs.
It can't hurt to keep the parts in order, even if you're doing the bores and bearings.
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if you have an 11mm block, the 12mm bolts listed won't work. I have had a lot of the really cheap ones (12mm) break before reaching spec torque, and would order 3-4 extra if using them. No biggie if they do break, just stick in another one.
! if the head gasket was what went bad,replace the plugs. Will pulling them out help the electro cleaining process in the passages?
2 I've filed nicks and dings of many a timing belt cog.
4 I do, to make forensics easier if nothing else. Cam caps also must stay in order.
5 my philosophy is invest minimum in 11mm hardware
to get head gasket thickness, did you measure actual piston protrusion? variance here will help you catch a bent rod from past hydrolock.
I never assume the PO used the correct head gasket, I've even seen VW get it wrong.
Check the exhaust valve guides especially, also with the shims out, look for cracks in the cam followers, especially if there are valve footprints on any piston tops.
Looks like you have a nice shell to start with there.
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With the big D on the back and the lack of 1.6 and the weird shaped oil pan I would make sure that it isn't a 1.5.
The oil pan looks weird shaped to me in the one pic. If it was a 1.5L I wouldn't rebuild it, I would source another engine in the 12mm head bolt variety. You can put your 1.5 rotating assembly in that 1.6 if you want to, but IMHO it will be more reliable as a 12mm block instead of the 11mm.
I skimmed the thread...saw BYM post on #4 as I don't know. I would keep it all together as it should wear better if you don't mix and match the rods as they have been in there before. I know you are replacing the bearings and they should all be sized but I would do it just in case. Also, the rods should be numbered on the bottom of the caps. Make sure not to interchange those.
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if you have an 11mm block, the 12mm bolts listed won't work. I have had a lot of the really cheap ones (12mm) break before reaching spec torque, and would order 3-4 extra if using them. No biggie if they do break, just stick in another one.
! if the head gasket was what went bad,replace the plugs. Will pulling them out help the electro cleaining process in the passages?
This motor was drained of all fluids when I got it. But I didn't see any major issues, and the motor turned freely when I checked it.
2 I've filed nicks and dings of many a timing belt cog.
Good to know... I will try to source another, but keep this in mind!
4 I do, to make forensics easier if nothing else. Cam caps also must stay in order.
Perfect, I will mark everything before I get it out of order. I always have when rebuilding aircooled stuff, but wasn't sure about watercooled motors!
5 my philosophy is invest minimum in 11mm hardware
As burn_your_money said, invest in a 12mm block. Are they that easy to find? And are the 11mm blocks really that prone to cracking. I would like to know before I take the time to clean up and refurb this block!
to get head gasket thickness, did you measure actual piston protrusion? variance here will help you catch a bent rod from past hydrolock.
I did not measure the piston clearance previous to disassembling the block. In the past, I have always done this upon reassembly of the motor in order to set the deck height/c.r. (again aircooled). Too late now, but should I have done it differently?
I never assume the PO used the correct head gasket, I've even seen VW get it wrong.
Check the exhaust valve guides especially, also with the shims out, look for cracks in the cam followers, especially if there are valve footprints on any piston tops.
I am not ready for the head yet, that will come later... it intimidates me! :o But if it means anything, all the pistons look perfect!
Looks like you have a nice shell to start with there.
I got lucky with the caddy! A guy had the whole body restored. No rust at all. It has some dents and dings from being moved around for 5 years, but overall in great shape! I picked it up, with the motor, and a ton of parts for $800!
We likes good pix. ;D
Good, because I really do take a lot!!! ;D
The shaft that drives the oil pump and vac pump is the Intermediate (or IM) shaft. It has two bearings that are driven-in with a hole aligned to the hole to the oil gallery. That bearing by the gear is shot (that's the shavings), and the front one is easy enough to replace regardless. Cheap insurance.
So I will have to remove the freeze plug towards the gear side of the shaft in order to install the new bearings for it?
I would go studs, replace the oil pump, reseal the Injection Pump (IP), replace the freeze-plugs.
Perfect, thank you!
It can't hurt to keep the parts in order, even if you're doing the bores and bearings.
Noted and planned on doing now!
The flakes are likely from the intermediate shaft bearings.
Going to be replacing those, see post above about removing freeze plug towards gear side of shaft.
#1) If they are rusty at all I would replace them.
All the freeze plugs from the inside look brand new. The outside is coated in oil so I have no clue of the shape. I think I am going to go ahead and knock them out and replace them!
#2) Depends where the chip is. If you can find one easily/cheap I would.
If is right on the edge of one of the teeth. I am going to try and source a replacement!
#3) How to inspect the oil pump is in the Bentley. If it passes I would use it. I prefer real OEM compared to anything you can buy new today.
Still need to pick up a bentley for a diesel. Got a gasser one, but isn't much use! I like reusing parts if possible, saves me money!
#4) not sure
No worries... others have given input. I love forums!
#5) For a NA or ever stock boost level build I would go stock except on headstuds (since it's 11mm). I'd actually just find a 12mm block.
Ok, as asked above. Is this an easy task to accomplish, finding a new block? I was under the assumption that these motors were not the easiest things to source out!
Make sure you measure everything and buy the proper bearings and also headgasket. Very, very important.
I am sure I will be having a lot of questions before I spend money on new parts!
Thanks for the insight and help so far!!
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With the big D on the back and the lack of 1.6 and the weird shaped oil pan I would make sure that it isn't a 1.5.
Block is I.D.'d as a 1.5, DANG IT ALL! Is it really not worth rebuilding? Engine code is CK
The oil pan looks weird shaped to me in the one pic. If it was a 1.5L I wouldn't rebuild it, I would source another engine in the 12mm head bolt variety. You can put your 1.5 rotating assembly in that 1.6 if you want to, but IMHO it will be more reliable as a 12mm block instead of the 11mm.
I skimmed the thread...saw BYM post on #4 as I don't know. I would keep it all together as it should wear better if you don't mix and match the rods as they have been in there before. I know you are replacing the bearings and they should all be sized but I would do it just in case. Also, the rods should be numbered on the bottom of the caps. Make sure not to interchange those.
Noted
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Get a 1.6 block and throw your stuff in? Get another oil pan as that looks like the one in the 4 quart system.
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Get a 1.6 block and throw your stuff in? Get another oil pan as that looks like the one in the 4 quart system.
Well that puts a dampener on things. Guess I better start looking. VW's in my area aren't the most abundant!
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A lot of them didn't crack in the first 10 years :D
Aside from the crack thing, 1.5s are the oldest, and I think more subject to bore wear.
If it was running when they took it apart, it probably still will.
It's fairly cheap to try, and might run for years while you source a nice 1.6 or 1.9.
It might even be worth $200 to build a practice diesel?
IIRC 11mm head bolts that are not a 12pt female star are reusable, and do not use the torque to yield procedure the later ones do.
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The stock bolts are not 12pt but you can use the gasser bolts and they are 12pt and the TTY.
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PM about parts and blocks...
Not sure if my PM's are working. I am not showing anything in my outbox, so let me know if you didn't get the PM I sent.
A lot of them didn't crack in the first 10 years :D
Aside from the crack thing, 1.5s are the oldest, and I think more subject to bore wear.
If it was running when they took it apart, it probably still will.
It's fairly cheap to try, and might run for years while you source a nice 1.6 or 1.9.
It might even be worth $200 to build a practice diesel?
IIRC 11mm head bolts that are not a 12pt female star are reusable, and do not use the torque to yield procedure the later ones do.
Im thinking if I can find a block cheap and easy, I will swap. Otherwise I am still going to clean and inspect the one I have and see if I can make it all work again!
The head studs that came out of the head are 6 pt. allens... so they would be reusable? Being that the 1.5 is prone to cracking, should I look into studding it?
The stock bolts are not 12pt but you can use the gasser bolts and they are 12pt and the TTY.
TTY? Any 8v gasser bolts?
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I am currently doing a headgasket job on my 11mm 1.6 rabbit and after reading a few threads about 11mm blocks i bought the studs 207-4701. Same as 4g63. Lightningmotorsports.com had them the cheapest
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I believe so, the 16v are way too long.
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As far as i know all the Torque To Yield bolts are threaded all the way up, and all but the earliest have a trapped washer.
Reusable bolts are mostly not thread.
If you use bolts from another application, be sure to duplicate the OEM washer diameter in some way, too small of washer will cave in the seat area.
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So over the last couple days, I have had the motor in the electrolysis engine cleaning setup. I will say that I am VERY impressed with this thing, considering it cost me a grand total of.... drum roll please... $4.33!!
The stuff to use is the water can be bought at pool places and is called PH Plus and is pure sodium carbonate. You mix 1.5 cups into 15 gallons of water.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5900_zps31ed6be0.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5900_zps31ed6be0.jpg.html)
Next you need to put the motor and your electrodes into the water. Making sure that the electrodes do not contact the engine. I welded them all together because I knew I would be leaving it running and didn't want to risk them coming into contact. The elctrode I chose are nothing but rebar. I used them because they were FREE
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5902_zps99b5785d.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5902_zps99b5785d.jpg.html)
Grab your go to beer for the season and watch for a little while cause it's entertaining if you are a little nerdy like me. This process amazes me!
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5901_zps8384c159.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5901_zps8384c159.jpg.html)
After the first round, about 20 hours. The surface looked like this. I ran it through two cycles, first was 20 hrs, second was 24 hrs.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5903_zpsaf54f6c7.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5903_zpsaf54f6c7.jpg.html)
And now the before and afters- Cause that's what everyone really wants to see!
Before-
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5898_zps9ab32e3a.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5898_zps9ab32e3a.jpg.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5899_zps3e69203b.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5899_zps3e69203b.jpg.html)
After-
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5940_zps320403ea.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5940_zps320403ea.jpg.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_5941_zps143f0dec.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_5941_zps143f0dec.jpg.html)
I still plan to hot tank it at my local shop and then have it magnafluxed. burn_your_money has offered parts to me, but my budget just doesn't allow it at the moment. So if this block checks out, I will have it honed and then put it back together!!! If it doesn't check out, well we will confront that if and when it arises!
The reason for me going ahead and trying the electrolysis was that the machine shop told me that depending on how dirty the engine was would change the amount the engine cleaning will cost. He said semi dirty engine cost around $40, and really dirty can run up to $85. So I am gonna see how much an "almost clean" one will cost haha!
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What the hell, that process eats through paint? I thought it was just a rust thing?
What is the difference between the guys talking about a hot tank and those ultrasonic cleaners?
I'm assuming there isn't a cheap way to run those fancy machines at home?
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that looks damn good for the money.
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That looks amazing! The link you provided on electrolysis is ng. I found this
http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html
Is it the same process?
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That looks amazing! The link you provided on electrolysis is ng. I found this
http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html
Is it the same process?
Yes, this is the same process. That is one of the links I read. I did a lot of reading, and there are a lot of great videos on youtube also. I will check that link that I posted! Thanks for the heads up!
What the hell, that process eats through paint? I thought it was just a rust thing?
What is the difference between the guys talking about a hot tank and those ultrasonic cleaners?
I'm assuming there isn't a cheap way to run those fancy machines at home?
I wasn't sure it would remove the paint either. But since you are possitively charging the sacrificial steel, and negatively charging the good metal on the engine block. As the electrons want to travel off the block, they take whatever is on the block with them. And apparently this includes the paint, which I was very happy about!!! ;D
And ultra sonic cleaner uses, heat, a cleaning agent, and I believe high frequency sound waves. The nice thing about them is that they will clean every nook and cranny of whatever is submerged.
The hot tank utilizes very hot, very hazardous cleaners. This is why a lot of shops don't use hot tanks anymore. The disposal of the liquid once used up is not easy or cheap for them. This is also why hot tanks aren't the best. A lot of shops use the solution too long do to how hard it is to get rid of.
I am sure making either at home is possible. An ultrasonic cleaner would probably be the better choice.
that looks damn good for the money.
I would say so. Still not perfect, and I plan on painting the block if it all works out ok. So that is my reason for wanting to use the hot tank also. I want all the oil build up GONE!
Here are a few motors I have built in the past. I have a thing for cleaned and functional engine bays!
84 GTI that never got finished- Traded for my 87 Jetta. But it did run and drive when I traded it!
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/F0473B51-A2D7-4A78-8CB0-69CAC9243E26-13877-00000FEA28AFD465.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/F0473B51-A2D7-4A78-8CB0-69CAC9243E26-13877-00000FEA28AFD465.jpg.html)
73 Super
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/DSC_0003.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/DSC_0003.jpg.html)
84 GTI's first 8valve
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f196/gsusmaniac/IMG_0221.jpg) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/gsusmaniac/media/IMG_0221.jpg.html)
I look forward to seeing what I can do with this Diesel!
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I've read that if you leave the sodium carbonate water sitting in your shop it will destroy all your tools as it evaporates. Keep a tight lid on it.
Very impressive results. What did you coat the engine in after coming out of the cleaner? I've heard that flash rust is a big issue with this method.
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I've read that if you leave the sodium carbonate water sitting in your shop it will destroy all your tools as it evaporates. Keep a tight lid on it.
Very impressive results. What did you coat the engine in after coming out of the cleaner? I've heard that flash rust is a big issue with this method.
The nice the about the sodium carbonate is that it doesn't make your solution toxic. So I have a box of sand I poor it into and the water just drains out the bottom.
As for keeping the rust down, I use wd-40 while its still wet. The wd-40 displaces the water and I got no rusting. We will see if it has any tomorrow when I run it to the machine shop!
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I've also read that trying to clean aluminum with this method could easily kill you, so keep that in mind.
Please keep us posted on how the WD40 turned out.
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WD supposedly stands for water displacement. A great way to clean a motorcycle is spray with Gunk degreaser, hose off with water, spray with WD 40 and the water just beads off- no drying necessary.
I suppose this will work washing your engine.
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Makes a guy want to pull every motor they have and throw it in a tupperware tub. Volts on, grime off. $4.33 what a steal.
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Clean is good. Just wondering if the process affected the bores any? I read some of the link on the process and it's not selective (like doing it by hand with a wire brush, scrapers and picks). It seems iron molecules are discharged away from the mass. If your'e re-boring its a non-issue, but if the bores were good, I'd think that they might have taken a beating.
Do you have any before and after bore specs?
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Clean is good. Just wondering if the process affected the bores any? I read some of the link on the process and it's not selective (like doing it by hand with a wire brush, scrapers and picks). It seems iron molecules are discharged away from the mass. If your'e re-boring its a non-issue, but if the bores were good, I'd think that they might have taken a beating.
Do you have any before and after bore specs?
I don't, but the process is a line of sight process. If the anodes can't see it, nothing come off it. So the inside of the motor shouldn't have changed. Right?
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Very slick.
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Off to a great start! I am blown away with how great that block cleaned up!!
I've also read that trying to clean aluminum with this method could easily kill you, so keep that in mind.
Please keep us posted on how the WD40 turned out.
That's a shame, because I instantly started thinking about how much easier it would be to clean all the nooks and crannies of an 020 case with this method. Shoot :(