VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: icyhotpatch on August 22, 2013, 05:35:10 am
-
I will hopefully be buying a mk1 rabbit or jetta soon. I want to turbo but not sure where to start. I searched turbo on the forums and didnt really find anything. The info I do know is that egt is an area of concern. I would max run 10 psi. Basically I would run turbo for b3st fuel economy and speed. I was thinking about getting a different trans but I know what that entails already. Could go easy way and find a td but I want to do it myself. Gooing to try and find stainless steel exhaust. Might help keep temos down and less prone to rust in good old michigan.
So what can I do to get the egt to stay low? Port and polish? I heard turbo size matters. Smaller turbo makes harder for gasses to leave engine resulting in higher egt. Was told intercooler will help egt as well.
I believe I need to up the fuel. Might have someone rebuild my IP.
-
IMHO, your on the right track - I'd say the IC is your first move and doesn't require removing the head like P&P.
-
The for sale section has stuff come up all the time. You can get original vw stuff especially in our for sale section or put stuff together and make your own. If you are running 10 psi and not gobs of fuel you will not have to do much if anything to help egt temps as that is stock for these engines. For 10psi a small turbo will be fine, it is when you go big that you need more fuel to keep spooling and that is where the heat is. For a fuel mileage build I would say the K14 would be your best option, but the other turbos would work too.
-
Don't get too far ahead of yourself until you have actually purchased the vehicle. It's usually cheaper to buy someone else's work "already done" than to piece it together yourself.
Cheaper. Not necessarily better.
Be honest with yourself about your goals, and please post pics of your new ride!
-
Oh you will see pics. I like that "Cheaper. Not necessarily better.". I live in the clouds alot. Getting ahead of myself is an issue. I just like to have all my thoughts collected. My slave driver aka wife is behind me on this which is nice once in awhile but she wont let me get a rust bucket. Something about turning the place into a crappy used car lot. I was thinking about buying a gas 4door or gti and then an 1.6l engine and doing a swap. Mainly because I have heard the transmissions perform better than the ones that come on 1.6l(I say heard because ive only seen gear ratios heard claims and sometimes the math doesnt work out In the real world). Then I can clean up the diesel motor while still having reletively decent FE.
The main reason I started this was because I know what and how a turbo works but dont want to buy a turbo put it on and blow my engine up. So this gives me a starting point.
-
A k14 is where I will start looking. My buddy knows a little about turbos. He has had 4 supras and now drives an sc300 2jtgte swap. But thats the turbo he recommended. As a starting point. Nice when strangers agree on stuff. The thing I have to keep reminding myself is not to spend 4000 on mods to make it have better fuel efficiency because id just be spending money to save money which doesn't always make sense. Kinda like buying a chevy volt. Which I would be more interested in if it had a diesel generator. But thats where the xl1 comes in.
-
Get a k14 from an aaz if you go that route.
-
At only 10 psi I would run a K03 from an AAZ or a K03 or GT15 from a TDI. A k14 is still a nice turbo but probably a bit too big, especially if you don't want to bother with a tuned TD pump.
-
aaz is the mk3 diesel right. Would most of the parts fit a 1.6l from a mk1? Ive seen some around 40 turbos new/rebuilt
-
I dont mind a upgrading to a td pump I just figured to start with something stock and work up. Im trying to sell the second car for 3700ish and buy a rabbit for 3000ish or less then having some money for modifications. If I buy a gas then do a swap I will spend like 2000. The 1.6l na are hard to find in good shape I saw a guy trying to sell a nice caddy for 4500
-
What im trying to to do is get a rabbit and have 1500 to 2000 left over for any issues that should arise.
Sorry for the multi posting you guys have got me all excited and the brain working.
-
What kind of engine are you trying to build?
Fuel sipper? Or maybe a power house? Bit of both? Do you want Torque down low from idle on up? Or do you prefer to have the Torque curve up high, So you can blast down the highway at 80+mph and still wind it up to pull out and pass with power?
Answer each one of these, and it will tell us what we need to tell you in order to get to that ultimate goal. Even if you want to do it in pieces, we can help with that too. Tell you where to start, and what you will need to get down the line in order to make it happen.
We've all been down this road, and many have extreme experience in this very thing.. lol
-
I would like a fuel sipper I would like to be able to pass easily. But I dont need to go over 80. I barely ever drive on the interstate. But its Michigan so I dont want to be in the way taking 4 minutes to pass someone. So low end torque would be nice. I know turbos are basically not working right off the line.
Basically I just wanna cruze and not waste 5 gallons of fuel doing so.
-
Doing a 2jzgte swap into a sc300 this winter maybe if my buddy gets his parts
-
I recommend the smaller ko3. People are giving them away off of their tdi engines, and they cam on later AAZ too.
I run one on my 1.9 mtdi and i spin it good. Boost from 1500 up, and with less displacement youd be less in its danger zone.
-
Ill look into it for sure. Ive always wanted a tdi I just have a hard time paying 9000 fir a car with 250000 miles on it.
-
Until I got on this forum ive never seen mtdi. M just refers to mechanical IP right? So its an 1.9l alh tdi with a mechanical pump like the ones from a mk1
I found a 91 jetta diesel I believe that is aaz. My problem is I like the mk1 body style. Dunno if I should get it because of the bigger engine or still get a mk1 gti and do a swap of an aaz or 1.6l. I just dont wanna be re doing head gaskets every two months
-
I meant to get a tdi turbo, the KKK-k03 or the Garret gt-15 and put it on the 1.6 MK1 you purchase. Was this not your original plan?? lol
$9000 is too much, walk away.
91 is not AAZ unless it was swapped. AAZ is the 1.9L engine found in the 1993-1997.5 Jetta's and 1993-1999 Golf's.
Everything that sucks about the 1.6's is fixed with the 1.9 aaz, and then their crap bits are fixed again with the 1.9 1Z/AHU.. and then AGAIN with the 1.9 ALH. M-tdi refers to a mechanically controlled TDI. There was no mechanical TDI sold in North America, except for maybe the marine/industrial engine.. but I have no proof of this.
There are 4 cylinder mechanical Direct Injected engines in the world, I am running my AHU 1.9L with a 2.5L Land Rover pump right now as are many others.. It is not stock, but it did run it in stock form with no issue. It is currently the Rover pump with a custom boost pin, 1.6 idle governor spring, AAZ cam plate and 1.6 delivery valves (why? I dunno, they fit lol).
-
My original plan is to get a mk1 with the 1.6l in it but I was just considering my options. a well thought plan can still be bad. Thought id run that idea by you guys. I just like the mk1 too much so I think im going to get it. The turbo is the part that makes me nervous like I said ive had no experience with them and having to replace head gaskets every two months is something I dont want to keep doing. Sell my second car and get a good condition mk1 rabbit or jetta in my area is my plan.
And it was a 97 jetta I saw on the road no idea why I typed 91. I wanted to buy a 2003 jetta tdi that had 250000 and they tried ssking thst much for it.
-
Got my cash might be getting a deal set up this week. For a project lots of new parts which is great.
-
So I am doing more research and found a few things. When I have this car I want to get 40+ mpg. Turbocharging and a 5spd transmission are two things I want to do. Im thinking of the k03 and then a sprinter intercooler. Should I get arp head bolts and a metal head gasket? Good source for the good old Bentley manual? I would do pdf. I always have a phone on me. But I think before anything I am going to throw in a engine block heater. This is not my first diesel experience and I hate waiting around for them to warm up not to mention the unnecessary loss of fuel economy. Then I will do some visual modifications maybe. What manifolds will fit for turbo. I do not want the vehicle to run super loud so what do you guys think about some sort or muffler? Smoke stack? Haha had to. I like facts not that should work. Kinda drives me nuts. More so drives my wife nuts and then she drives me nuts.
-
All I can add is my 5 year experiences with these cars. I daily drive only turbo motors and have other cars that other family members drive.
The only time I have had a head gasket blow was about a year and a half ago. A coolant hose broke and my brothers wife ignored the low coolant light a bit too long and the engine locked up :( I limped that car home adding water every mile after getting car up to speed and letting it coast to a stop. It was pushing it all out the reservoir. This head actually made it without being warped and no cracks between the valves! Engine still sits on the shelf because it was easier to start another build and swap what I had.
I only drive with stock offered parts and fueling/boost and have to say its hard to knock the reliability. I have an 85 jetta and the rest are mk1 shells.
I don't smoke. One cycle of the glowplugs is all need down into the teen temps during winter and my cars start right up with the cold start lever out. Never even thought twice about a block heater. Mine will run on their own and just put out a puff a smoke on startup and then run smooth although louder while they warm up.
the 85 jetta gets a steady 45mpg if not better.
my 79 rabbit im driving right now with a straight through exhaust is getting 44 all day long. my commute is 95% highway of speeds up to 85mph, most of the time 75. Just to keep up, and I don't feel like I am screaming my motor with fn tranny when cruising at speed limit of around 70, the car likes that. so what would happen if i could go 55 we will never know :)
as far as power delivery i have been driving this lighter rabbit for almost a year and the car is definately good compared to small cylinder gas commuter cars as far as power delivery in higher gears, fifth gear is pretty useless for passing and accelerating fast.
i am kind of in the same situation as you and have searched these forums for many hours and still don't really have the right answer because of many opinions. aaz, modding 1.6td, or going tdi. i am leaning towards a tdi/tranny swap myself with some mild mods before the engine is transplanted. i want mileage, but some roll on power on reserve if needed.
-
Ive never *knock on wood* blown a head gasket. Had leaky ones but replaced before it got too bad. Its soooo hard for me to just go for it when modifying engines. I think I might just do a swap to a 5spd and see how that plays out. EVERYONE gives me a hard time because I am in my 20s and drive like im in my 90s, slow and steady. 55mph is as fast as I ever go maybe 60. There is one road I take sometimes is 70mph. But even then I still only go 60 because I love to annoy people. James May is my hero.
How loud is you rabbit with the lack of exhaust?
I have a feeling that I will drive it stock for a year before I make any real decisions. But the governor mod and engine block heater might get done asap. People keep telling me these rabbits are painfully slow but they are just so fun to drive I do not know how you cannot.
-
If you really drive like you are talking, why would you even think twice about a stock 1.6????
It does what you are asking and you can still do 70 fine on a flat freeway.
Conflicting information. Around here its a safety thing at the end of the day. With no turbo I am at the mercy of the road. With turbo I have to attack things and rev the heck out of the car like a 2 stroke. But I can get my way around the dopey drivers that hold others up in the slower lanes. My only problem is the fifth gear thing. I get to full boost with pedal down and the car might maintain speed on a big mountain and I cannot let off. Boost lag, lack of response, etc. But I can get some momentum to pass on flat ground or scream the car in 4th gear and have more leeway.
The open exhaust is annoying. You really notice it on a walkaround out the back. I can hear the turbo whistle when I barely gas it and am going slow in the city. The front ends have always been the noisy part of the engine so I can still notice that. But once you get aggressive on the road with a rabbit cage vs. say my 85 jetta there is more chasis noise so it kind of blends in and even with the window down in a wide open area I can't hear the turbo whining when on the throttle. I can't say I have ever noticed a droning inside the car with the windows up.
I think in the future when I finally fix mine up I will put some kind of muffler. But again I want to ditch the 1.6td
I never drive the non turbos now, even though I own some. Night and day difference between the 2 setups with stock td parts, fueling/boost.
-
The ONLY reason I want to turbo it is to do it. No NEED only want. I understand concern for engines. I drive slow and steady and only get of the freeway if needed or running late for something. What would be interesting is (I know 8v talked about it) it to have a supercharger with electronic clutch and a turbo on a newer engine. Maybe I will do that for fun when I have a little more cash to throw around.
I know the front end was loud but I was more afraid of it being super ridiculous loud.
The only thing that I barely dont like about rabbit diesels is the fact I like music and its hard to listen to turns when you have that little engine purring.
Never driven a mk1 jetta at all. They look cool I could drive a coupe.
-
Swap in a stock 1.9L AAZ. (if you can that is) It will be the most worthwhile swap for you. Torque down low, power throughout the usable RPM band. They use the small k03 so it is power from idle to whenever you let off.
-
I can do a swap. With little trouble. Done a few old Ford Hot Rod engine installs before. For future reference how hard is swapping the cluster from a mk3 into a mk1. Doinggg a 2jzgte swap into a sc300 later this year.
-
I was talking to my one buddy about my prospected vehicle and my interest in biodiesel. He says his dad sells it where he works. My point being: has anyone here ran B20 biodiesel in the mk1 n/a?
-
I ran biodiesel in place of the WVO in my N/A 1.6 Rabbit for a while. Got B99 right out of the pump. They had B20 as well but it cost a bit more so I ran the cheap stuff.
Once the weather started to drop in temperature the would ask if I knew the dangers of running the thicker stuff. As they were pumping it in I showed them the heater hoses and after the tank was filled I took them to the engine bay to see the dual FPHE and filters. Most of the younger guys were also into WVO and they always paid me a complement on the set up and using the B99. Kind of a culture at the station about recycling and even though they sold straight diesel they really wanted to sell the raw product.
I told them I would buy WVO from them if I could. I finally found a source for that and only once in a while topped the tank with BioD after that.
-
Im interesred in all the green stuff just not too sure I want to spend the cash on it. I need 3 rabbits I think that would solve my problem.
-
Nope just combine them into one- a trifueled Rabbit- Depending on how you drive daily you main tank would carry the most often used fuel, a smaller one for WVO and another BioD. Although I didn't have to heat the BioD until the colder temps set in it ran through the same route as the WVO. I could have added some other hoses and valves but if you look under the hood of my car you would shake your head and ask where will they go?
-
I might look into it a little more once I am rolling kohle. My question for you is: What do you mean by drive daily? I either drive 28.8 or 42.4 miles round trip 55 mph or less. I was planning on using the b20 because I believe you can fuel and go with it.
-
Yes B20 goes in the same tank as designed for regular diesel. But hoses and inside of the tank might get cleaned out some from the first couple of tanks. That means fuel filter plugging. You can install something cheaper before the stock fuel filter. One of those white sort of see through types and keep a spare in the car along with the needed nut driver or screwdriver for getting the hose clamps off.
By daily drive I meant just what you state. How far and how fast. I can't use my WVO system unless I get it out on the highway and since I have a 3 mile drive to and then from work I only run on diesel. I could do the BioD but the station is 2.5 hours away. Next time I head that way I think I will fill the secondary tank with it so I can run on it instead of the diesel. Not a big difference in price between the two anymore as regular diesel is dropping in price.
So, prepare to clean out filters and replace old hoses if you go the B20 route. That stuff cleans pretty well.
It is also a bit thicker and my injectors didn't rattle as much using it or the WVO. Good luck.
-
One of my college instructors works on his family farm and they recently switched to b20 supplied by the company my buddys dad works for(small world huh) and his old tractors from what he said ran bad they changed filters a few times then ran better than the day he bought them.
-
Pick up the rabbit will post pictures later
-
(http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z356/icyh0tpatch/20130831_184346.jpg)
-
Nice start. Where did the PO find the door handles?
I almost thought the block heater plug wire was a bungee cord holding the drivers side bumper up.
Inside OK? Looks recently painted. Similar look to the VW I bought 3 yrs ago this month. Much revision since.
Keep us posted.
-
niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice
-
No idea where he got the handles but I have the vw ones broken of course. Block heater does kinda look like a bungie cord. inside is perfect. PO did paint it but was originally silver. PO has owned it for 20 years stored inside last 10. The car has 120k. A little rust. I need to replace valve cover gasket but that isnt hard or expensive. Want to change the oil as well.
Speaking of valve cover I need to buy one. I know the rubber on from victor heinz is the one I should go for but where should I get it from? Unless you guys have your own suggestions.
I didn't realize how vw has not changed their engines over the years.
-
I generally start here: http://www.partsgeek.com/ymm/1981/volkswagen/rabbit.html?sort=pop&scat=engine_mechanical
or here: for my stuff. http://stores.ebay.com/Mk1-Autohaus?_nkw=valve+cover
But there are some better but I think for the general stuff I would start at either of these. Sometimes my local NAPA can get parts for about the same and do not charge the S&H.
Was it the gasket or the actual metal cover you need. I was confused. I bet several of us have a spare cover if you really need one. Do a Want to Buy WTB and see what comes of it.
-
It keeps not posting things on me. I need the valve cover gasket. I have an extra valve cover. Tomorrow im going to go take some pictures. I just noticed today the front drivers side tire is closer to the fender than passenger side. The passenger side front tire has a small negative camber issue. On thursday or friday I will get it up in the air and look more once I get the valve cover gasket in the mail.
-
did you oreder it yet?
I'd go for one of the rubber upgrades that includes the studs.
-
Yea thats what I am getting. Cork is a no go. I need to get it off the ground and wheels off. Might do that tomorrow. What would you people recommend for new struts and springs all around. Im thinking koni str.t and vogtland or h&r if I need em. I want to go max 1.25 inch drop. Again if i need to. I dont want to go stock and end up spending more because I replaced them one at a time.
-
They have a kyb gr2 and vogtland set on ebay. New its sub 300 not including shipping. Says 1.2 inch drop what do you guys think. I need to take pictures and start a build thread.
-
I recommend quality springs whatever you choose.. a cheap spring will have a horrible spring rate and wreck your struts and give a siht ride.
I got two sets of H&R through Eurosport a few weeks back on sale.. check it out.
The GR-2 is a fair strut.. I like them. My brother has them on the rear of his mk1 with the bilstein HD's up front and H&R sports.. ITS ON RAILS!
-
See I was thinking about doing the same thing but I want stiffer than stock ride but not rail stiff. The HD seems too much for me. Like I said though im going to try and get the car off the ground and see if there is any other issues first
-
we also added a upper front strut bar, and lower front 4 point at the same time.. SO it stiffened like 300%.
-
I was thinking of upper front strut bar as well. Seems like a good easy mod for better handling
-
I guess ill have to start a build thread
-
Finally getting the car registered today. At SOS now.
-
And the valve cover is leaking worse. Im thinking because of the amount of driving I did. Oil hotter thinner leak more
-
Of coarse I get it registered and everything goes to poop. Went through 2-3 quarts of oil in 14.4 miles. Leaks less ounce the oil level gets lower than 3 qts less oil to leak right. lol not mad just annoyed ive been waiting for 5 years to get one of these babies and it starts squirting oil everywhere.
-
Suggestion, find the aluminum valve cover from a G60 and get the one piece rubber gasket. What happens a lot is the stamped steel gets torqued too hard and then leaks. From there people beat on them to get it to stop and make it worse. If you can find a straight valve cover in steel get it. Buy brand new, but in my experience you won't get the one you have to stop if it is like that now. If he used RTV it probably blew out and you have nothing back there now.
-
Thats what it looks like to me. Too much torquing. The guy who I bought it from entered the car in shows and drove it once or twice a month to get a gallon of milk instead of driving his truck. He claims to have replaced all seals which if you look at the engine it looks like it was out he cleaned it all and put it back. The head looks clean and same with the coolant. BUT you never know. He was a great guy talked too him for a good while. I guess I just believe too much in people.
-
Looks like a nice find! More pictures! I love my mk1 but I wish it was a monster diesel instead of a monster gasser :'(
-
Got my Bentley and camshaft seal. Still waiting for valvecover gasket. Stuck in usps.
-
Got valve cover replaced and still seems to be leaking something. It appears its the iP which was rebuilt 10 years but only 3000 miles ago which I believe the guy the valve cover gasket was new but torqued a little too much and it was cork of coarse. The guy took care of the car but did not do it exactly to vw spec. Long story short the ip needs rebuilding and I need to get a kit soon. My wife is getting annoyed that the rabbit is not up and about but hey its a 30 year old car.
-
IP has diesel in it, the valve cover would be leaking oil? You need to look at the back of the block.
-
I think im going to rebuild the engine or reseal the engine and reseal the pump. Now I just need to find the gasket kit. I talked the guy down because I knew this was going to happen. I dunno what heppened maybe lack of use of the vehicle? Anyways time to stop crying about it. Recommendations? I wanna get this ordered today. So I can start asap I hate sitting around doing nothing. any special tools you guys recoomend or that I absolutely need. I know I need the gauge for the ip but I believe I can get away with other tools for most of it.
-
The upside is the engine has been apart before so it should come apart easier than if it had never been. I might get a kit from rockauto. I noticed on rockauto they have 11.5mm bolt holes and 12.5 mm bolt holes. Is there something that determines this according to year or should I just start taking the engine apart in order to figure it out.
-
Not going to lie I am very excited to be forced to have to rebuild this engine.
-
I left a link in to VC thread on the injection pump, but you may have more leaking than just that. Degrease and pressure wash your engine if you can so you aren't just chasing ghosts with this leak.
You can do a basic reseal with not much more than an a set of allans and a set of torx. The kit will come with enough pieces to do a fullllll reseal, but don't feel obligated to use every piece that you get. You might bite off more than you can chew. Either way, to do it proper, you are going to want to get the pump out of the car, so you should expect a spanner wrench for the tensioner (there are ways around it...I fought it for years....and it's not worth it. Buy a spanner lol), cam lock, pump lock and a dial indicator. If you plan on successfully maintaining this engine, those tools are worth their weight in gold.
If you want more details on a full DIY pump rebuild, check the 3rd page of my build thread. It's got pictures out the ying yang.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=31532.30
I believe page 2 has a picture of all the stuff that comes in the rebuild kit
-
I will most likely buy the right stuff. It bothers me inside if I dont care for my vehicles the right way. I know I wanted a good kit. The pump is coming out and the engine too. I figure if the guy rebuilt everything like he did the valve cover its going to need to be redone. I have alot of non specialty tools now. Going into the car industry. Maybe I will even open up my own import shop in Michigan when I get better at it. I feel bad for all these people who need to drive 2 houra to have their cars serviced by the dealership. I am a fair and honest person so who knows. Id love to get my hands on some more euro cars.
-
Speaking from experience if the engine runs decent you should just leave it alone. It starts out as a rebuild and soon you are replacing everything while you are there. Unless time and funds are never a problem I vote you keep going with it as long as you can. It maybe no gain to rebuild it all right now.
-
The ip for sure is getting rebuilt. I think I might do some more investigation into the leak. My issue is I like to either be lazy or turn it up to 11 and redo everything.
-
If the engine was just rebuilt I would be checking compression and deciding on whether to leave it alone or not. Like it has been mentioned you need to get the engine clean then look for the leaks. Bad install on the gaskets? Leaky IP pump. One is not hard to do but the other is way more involved.
I know where you can get a deal on a complete set of the tools you might need to own and service this car for about 150. I need to check with the seller but can do an PM if you care to follow up on that. Basically half price on all the equipment and I bet he'd ship if you paid full price.
If the engine is really running well and leaks are the problem don't kill it by disassembling it right yet.
How many threads are on here from folks that thought it was like any other engine, what could be wrong with it? Heck even I started out that way. Had the injection pump fall apart on me because I didn't know it needed to be disassembled standin on it's nose. So, easy does it here.
-
x2 on Diving in - too deep ;D
-
Too deep maybe but I can swim. Ill do a compression test. I have a mightyvac kit but only used it gassers im sure its not fit for diesel. I would but interested in the kit. Who are the tools manufacted by?
I will have to wait until I can get some help to crank. On gas vehicles I always just modified a relay to crank. I will get back to you guys when I complete the test. I am starting to lean towards a seal on one of the pulleys being bad as well. I was leaning more towards resealling the engine(new headgasket new oil pan gasket and new crank seals) than a complete reardown. I bought the ip kit last night after I started it stuck my hand under it noticed the fluid was clear not oil and didnt smell like coolant. The PO said he ran b20 couldnt that hurt the seals of the pump? Oh well I will do some testing and see how that goes.
-
Of coarse my compression kit is not suitable for diesels. Should I buy one? I think I might. I think I am going to buy crankshaft seal head and oil pan gasket to keep around just incase. Tomorrow night I will be cleaning the engine with my power washer. Anything I should look oit for?
-
Compression test has to be done with a diesel compatible gauge. Gassers are too low you are trying to measure 500 psi in each cylinder or at least 480. I have one of the better quality Harbor Freight kits. The adapter goes in the hole where the injector came out. All the needed parts are there and the gauge has the ability to adapt to many different vehicles. I just hook it up and secure the gauge in the engine compartment then go hit the key and let it wind around several times and go read the dial. Sometimes I can position it so I can see it climb up the scale looking under the hood as it is raised at this point.
Kit with all the goodies was gone when I went looking for it. All the stuff was from the Parts Geek site if I remember right. Timing gauge, compression gauge, plates, IP pin, some sockets, the tensioner and some hex head sockets for the head bolts.
I clean the engine with some sort of engine degreaser on a warm not hot engine. Then wash it down with the easy does it spray on the powerwasher. Geinerally I don't need to hit the high pressure trigger. Once it is clean I run it for a short distance, like 10 miles and look where oil is coming from with a good strong light.
Not much to it.
-
I think im going to get the harbor freight compression kit for now. Need to get new heat shields for injectors as well before I can do compression test.
Are the tool numbers still the same as the tools in the Bentley?
I was watching it leak this morning I can only see oil coming from above the oil pan gasket behind the timing belt cover only. Coolant hasnt gone down at all. And its still dripping off the ip.
-
You can reform the heatshields using a ball bearing, a socket and a pair of vice grip pliers. No need to spend the coin on them unless cracked or broken. This is personal opinion and use information, your comfort zone may be different.
Not sure about tool numbers in the Bentley. Plenty of parts places can hook you up with poor to good quality tools. Parts Place might have some decent equipment. I think I said Parts Geek in the first post and they too may have em. Hard to tell until you get them in hand at times. Search forum for tools and maybe the stickies as well. Something there about our handmade cheaters and money savers.
Sounds like the oil leak is at the place where the gasket joins the U shaped piece over the cam. Sealer after cleaning will take care of that if the Valve Cover isn't messed up. IP sounds iffy to me as well. Hard to spot those.
-
I see the fluid on the ip mount. On ip side. I dont see what else it could be. Ive seen liquid drip off of it also tried to film it but its difficult to film drops close up in lower light. I replaced the valve cover gasket. How about the cam shaft seal and the crankshaft seals? I guess I could have screwed up the valve cover again. It is a little hard to get that hump up there. Maybe take it off and put some rtv on the hump to hold it? Thoughts? Im thinking compression test is almost useless at this point the most it will tell me if the head gasket is leaking which I can do a cheaper way ie: coolant pressure test. But I want the gauge anyway so I might do it no matter what. I just need it driving before my neighbors complain. If I have to reseal the ip wouldnt it be pointless to buy lock it first then I could replace headgasket, oil pan gasket, and cam and crank seals as well as do the t-belt. Even if I buy the tools and gaskets im looking at like 450 and peace of mind as long as there are no hang ups.
What I want to know is: do metal head gaskets come in dif sizes and should I use one? From what I understand if you dont machine the head before upgrading the gasket will not seal correctly so now im leaning to a regular felpro if I need to replace it. And do they have a rubber gasket for oil pan I just havent seen one or maybe a site too look. I would appreciate any help with these mainly because they will need to be replaced at some point.
-
If im taking the ip off do I need to wait until I get the lock? Im going to retime and replace timing belt. Trying to speed this up a little. I will wait if I have to. If I dont need it I will take off so I can get on with this.
I need to make a trip to good old harbor frieght for that gauge even though possitive compression is spot on. Starts up and runs perfect except for the leaking dark oily substance that doeant smell like coolant and the clear looking liquid that also doesnt smell like coolant.
Does anyone have tips for seeing behind timing belt cover?
Working 40 hours a week and still going to college makes timing difficult. Thank fully I have a 60x40 garage with heat. Too bad I cant get this thing to my college one of the instructors is very experienced with VW.
-
I see the fluid on the ip mount. On ip side. I dont see what else it could be. Ive seen liquid drip off of it also tried to film it but its difficult to film drops close up in lower light.
If it smells like diesel fuel it's your IP. If you think it's coolant but there's not enough to smell or tell what color it is, but it's a bit slippery, it's coolant. If it's not slippery, it's sweat from your brow ;)
Some of your questions about head gaskets lead me to believe you don't have a Bentley. That should be your first tool. There are different thicknesses and the Bentley will tell you how to measure you piston protrusion and select the correct one. There's also tons of info in the FAQ about head gaskets.
As for leaks behind the timing belt cover, I would look for a bad Intermediate shaft seal. If you find the leak there, I'd loosen the timing belt and check for side-to-side play of the IM shaft. If you can feel it, it's very likely too much and you IM shaft bearings are shot (I hope not).
-
I do have a Bentley just dont have much time to read it page to page. My gasket is 3 notch. The head bolt size is confusing to me as well what engine codes go with what bolt sizes.
Thanks for the tip on the shaft play. Ill do that tomorrow if I get time. Hopefully its something else. If its the intermediate shaft engine must come out.
-
I think I am going to drop the motor did compression test today all with parameters but I am not able to see the leak at all. It seems to be coming from the front of the motor on the lower half now that the valve cover leak has been dealt with. No play in the intermediate shaft pulley loosened but did not remove the belt but doesnt rule it out. I think dropping the motor and trans will make it quicker and be more effective to clean the motor after the leak is fixed.
Any tips? And if it is the intermediate shaft seal the motor must be removed to replace the seal anyway or atleast thats what my Bentley says.
So wish me luck
-
So wish me luck
(http://www.imagesbuddy.com/images/81/2013/08/keep-calm-and-good-luck-united-kingdom-flag-graphic.png)
-
Thanks I know you guys are concerned because of my lack of VAG wisdom but I must learn through my mistakes and triumphs.
-
Anybody got me a link to where I can buy a triangle socket for the ip?
-
Dont have alot of time but the car has been fun to work on so far. Maybe its because unlike my other cars its just awesome.
-
Thanks I know you guys are concerned because of my lack of VAG wisdom but I must learn through my mistakes and triumphs.
:thumbup:
Bravo. That's the attitude that keeps you going! We all had to start somewhere. It's been 6+years since I got my first vw diesel and I am still learning. I am excited to get into the turbo world!
as for the triangle socket...good luck finding it! I made mine by taking a 13mm 6-point and grinding down 3 of the sides with a dremel until it fit the bolt.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i248/flowmastergfunk/DSCF0102.jpg)
-
I just didnt want to screw up with the dremel and have to go buy another 13mm hate wasting tools like that. I have most of the ip disassembled. Just need those bolts out.
-
Go slow :P
-
In a pinch I have used the thin vise grip pliers I own. One on the flat one on the rounde part and quick snap to get them to loosen up. One shot try generally.
-
Got it out but now this wont come out: (http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z356/icyh0tpatch/20130926_184210.jpg)
-
http://www.hansdieselparts.com/3SidedSpecialTool.htm
these guys have the tool
-
I might order that but got them out already
-
A flat screwdriver and hammer work don't they? Counterclockwise thread on this one? Been awhile since I disassembled that top side.
-
There is a 5mm allen key then the big flathead looking thing
-
Careful, that is critical IIRC. You must put that back close to where it is if you want it to run properly.
-
Almost all I have taken out have been 15-15.5 turns in from the first thread catch.
-
I believe shaft seal is only seal behind that and it can be taken out from the exterior. Should I forgo totally break down of the pump?
-
I thought the teardown was necessitated by the need to clean up the spill collar? Or was it Gov weights not freed up? To many threads to remember.
Note position of shaft on the nut. Only a few threads showing? Like the post from 8 V says. Count the turns the you make to remove it and put it back to that.
-
Im going to try and get it out I want to tear it down but the bugger is resisting
-
Nothing moves in any direction. This is iritating.
-
I usually break them free with just an allen key alone. Some are reverse threads.
-
When it get loose, I back it out just enough to get to the seal, so the gov bits don't drop into the case.
I made a tool for the lock collar by grinding a socket to have two lugs on the edge.
-
I might have to join you with that diy tool. I was thinking about doing the but now that I know it works I will be doing it.
-
Anybody bought a rebuild kit from grumpy on ebay?