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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on August 04, 2013, 07:51:16 am
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The water pump in my mk2 Jetta is making noise at less than 30k when it was last replaced with a stamped metal impeller ones. Not impressed with the quality.
I have a good used mk1 cast impeller water pump with good bearings and no rust and not worn impeller. Will it fit my mk2 Jetta?
If not, who sells a reasonably priced cast impeller water pump?
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I think the only difference that could be is the size of the impeller. 30mm or 40mm, something along those lines.
1975 (gas and diesel) - 1998 (gas and diesel) use the same water pump housing and pump.
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Impeller size or hub size? I remember reading about different hub size.
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must be hub size then. IF the one you have looks like the one you take off, it will work :)
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The hub is different so you'll need the pulley. Also on the older 1.5 the housing is missing the top center bolt hole for mounting.
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I'm using a MK2 water pump on the MK1 engine in my car. It bolted right on.
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Anyone changed a water pump on Mk2 with AC and power steering recently so it's fresh in their mind? The Bently says it's easy but the procedure is for no ac no pwr steering.
Looks like to remove the water pump only, the timing belt Intermeduate shaft sprocket has to come off. To remove water pump with housing, the ac/alt mounting cast iron bracket has to come off. That is not a simple job since I think the injection pump has to come off to get to a hidden bolt.
Please confirm the above before I rip into it.
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Confirmed. Not fun.
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Confirmed. Not fun.
So you did this job recently? How many hours did it take?
I suppose I should skip removing just the water pump method since it will be wasted effort if any of those 9 little rusty bolts break?
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Probably looking at 8-10hours.
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I am looking at doing this shortly , too. I think my water pump is not pumping well and it's time to change the timing belt. I am going to risk the side bolts as IIRC I had the pump off before and used anti-seize . I love that stuff.
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If the alternator bracket has been removed within a year, it is possible to pull it without pulling the IP.
It helps to loosen the IP a bit, so mark its position beforehand.
The two bolts under the IP are accessed using a flexi-socket on the bolt nearest the pulley and an S-wrench on the bolt nearest the dipstick.
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Probably looking at 8-10hours.
Sounds about right. I spent about 4 to 5 hours today taking it out, taking it apart and cleaning it. I had trouble with the 2 bolts behind the IP, They both slipped when I turned the 1/2" ratchet and my heart sank. I cleaned the dirt around the bolts and pushed in harder while turning and they came out. The heads were slightly rounded so someone been in there before me. This water pump was making a loud racket and the bearing had about 1/8" wobble and it is amazing it was not leaking! What kind of bearing and seals is in the water pump? I will try to press it apart and have a look inside.
I used a propane torch to heat the 9 bolts before torquing on them and they all came out without problems. I had no choice but to reuse the housing since the spare Mk1 housing I have have smaller hose barb sizes (the 2 small barbs).
On the left is the MK2 Eco water pump, on right the MK1 with the smaller barbs
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20130815_164335-1_zpse674d42a.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/IMG_20130815_164335-1_zpse674d42a.jpg.html)
Here it is apart
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20130815_171018-1_zps8d236d9a.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/IMG_20130815_171018-1_zps8d236d9a.jpg.html)
New pump (Graf) next to the old
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20130815_181258-1_zps9b80278d.jpg) (http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/Ecodiesel92/media/IMG_20130815_181258-1_zps9b80278d.jpg.html)
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I am looking at doing this shortly , too. I think my water pump is not pumping well and it's time to change the timing belt. I am going to risk the side bolts as IIRC I had the pump off before and used anti-seize . I love that stuff.
I used anti seize in installing the new pump along with the metal/rubber gasket. I will go one step further the bolts to housing in an attempt to keep moisture from entering from the outside. Maybe it will help the next time where I will take only the 9 side bolts out, which is less work than pulling the IP and AC/alt bracket/ water pump housing. Just have to clamp the timing belt on the sprockets, slacken the timing belt tensioner, remove I-shaft sprocket w/o disturbing IP or cam timing.
It is ridiculous the amount of work I had to do to replace a fricken water pump! What were the VW engineers thinking when they designed this damn engine?
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If the alternator bracket has been removed within a year, it is possible to pull it without pulling the IP.
It helps to loosen the IP a bit, so mark its position beforehand.
The two bolts under the IP are accessed using a flexi-socket on the bolt nearest the pulley and an S-wrench on the bolt nearest the dipstick.
Thanks for that tip! I will try it out when I have the IP back in.
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If the alternator bracket has been removed within a year, it is possible to pull it without pulling the IP.
It helps to loosen the IP a bit, so mark its position beforehand.
The two bolts under the IP are accessed using a flexi-socket on the bolt nearest the pulley and an S-wrench on the bolt nearest the dipstick.
Thanks for that tip! I will try it out when I have the IP back in.
It's back together and running and all went well! I did not try your tip because it looks almost impossible to me. Incredibly tight access, not being able to see - a recipe for stripped bolts in the making. Next time I will go in by removing the intermediate shaft idler. Should be a much easier job.
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Knowing the small bolts will come out is the key to taking out just the pump without the housing.
I can't remember if I put anti-seize on the small bolts of the new pump when I replaced the whole assembly. That would've been a good idea.
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I marked the timing belt and sprokets qhen I replaced the water pump and put it back the same way with the marks all lined up. Started right up but very quiet no diesel clatter and smokes more than before.I can't advance the IP anymore to achieve 1.00 mm timing because it is hitting the end of the adjustment slot. It was near the end of the adjustment before but timing was 1.00 mm. Now I can't get to 1.00 mm advance. I tried moving the belt one tooth relative to the IplP sprocket but then can't set the timing right. Obviously I am doing something wrong. I need a step by step how to get the IP in the middle of the adjustment range.
Thanks!
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paint n pray does not work....
pull belt and install right way...
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Your pump is a tooth off, hopefully that is all. Do it the proper way and it should be smooth sailing.
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paint n pray does not work....
pull belt and install right way...
I marked but did not pray and it worked! What did the trick was to have the flywheel mark not onTDC but a few fly wheel teeth BTDC so I'm not fighting the spring in the pump when I moved the belt one tooth on the IP sprocket.
The sweet diesel clatter is back. Just took a test drive and it's running great. No more water pump racket!
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Your pump is a tooth off, hopefully that is all. Do it the proper way and it should be smooth sailing.
It was a tooth off, even before I did the water pump which was done by the book per Bentley (fly wheel TDC, cam lock plate in, pin inserted in IP sprocket hole), but resulted in IP at the end of adjustment with timing set.
Now that I have the IP in the middle of the adjustment range and timing set to 1.00 mm, the pin can no longer be inserted in the IP sprocket since the holes no longer line up.
Can you explain why?
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Now that I have the IP in the middle of the adjustment range and timing set to 1.00 mm, the pin can no longer be inserted in the IP sprocket since the holes no longer line up.
Can you explain why?
Something got muffed. The gauge may still read 1.00mm but if it is not in time with crank and cam.. it is not really injecting it at that point.
The pulley should line up, you clearly have the know how. Pull it all off and start again. Half-ass is the quick way to a blown up engine.
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I find with my pump lock pin that it isn't quite tight enough and will allow the pulley to move enough to get the belt a tooth off.
It's strange that yours won't go in when you have the crank right at TDC though. As long as you get the desired timing though it really doesn't matter if the pump is a tooth off one way or the other, as long as the lines aren't stressed. It sounds like you have it right though.
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Yeah I guess, the timing is still read at crank TDC.. which if everything remained the same.. is also cam TDC.
The NEXT time you have it apart though, figure that issh out lol.
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Why does the IP have a woodruff key? Can it be eliminated? It makes putting the belt/sprocket onto the shaft very difficult.
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Hmm, I have seen pumps without them..
If you do the belt properly.. it is not hard at all. ;)
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I find with my pump lock pin that it isn't quite tight enough and will allow the pulley to move enough to get the belt a tooth off.
I use a Craftsman 11mm deep well socket for the IP pulley lock pin. It is a perfect fit with absolutely zero play.
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Hmm, I have seen pumps without them..
If you do the belt properly.. it is not hard at all. ;)
Do you install pumps w/o the key? The belt tooths are about 3/16" apart, which is plenty to make the sprocket holes not line up.
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No, BUT The Land Rover pump I currently have on my m-tdi iirc did not have a keyway when it was in Land Rover form.
If the holes don't line up you didn't do it right though.
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The cam sprocket can be the problem, too. With the cam locked in place via the plate at the rear of the head, the cam sprocket is supposed to be loose (not locked to the cam) when you set the timing. After the belt is tensioned into place, then tighten the cam pulley.
Steve.
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If I do it right, i.e.
1 flywheel at TDC
2 cam plate in cam slot
3 IP pin in
It ends up IP is at the end of adjustment and can't advance to spec timing.
What am ai doing wrong?
Tools are bought and fit snug
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What I do is;
When I am coming up around the pump with the belt, I turn the pulley clockwise to the next belt cog in order to keep the slack moving up over the pump pulley in my hand. This has worked every time I have timed an engine, even when I don't have my locks with me.
Andrew has a similar way, by turning the crank back a few degrees? I cannot recall it correctly.
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...................everyone stop......................
you say there is no way at all the pump pin cannot be installed with tdc mark on crank n 0?
have you ever screwed with the crank sprocket? i think its time....
the few times ive seen this issue the crank sprocket is 1/2 broken... aaz style failure..
catch now easy fix.. if it finishes breaking.. its like aaz failure...
so if you can say 100% that pin cannot be installed at 0... even if you gotta install it 1st... then i would pull it...
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I never screwed with the crank sprocket. Doesn't having flywheel at tdc and cam plate in slot confirm the crank sprocket is ok?
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no... cam gear is loose spinning free on cam has nothing to do with relation to crank/pump timming...
how aaz crank sprockets break.. yea.. flywheel correct.. belt not...
the pin in pump may be a little hard to get in/out where you gotta move the crank one way or the other.. but more then that... no... thats when its been modded to tdi type of sprocket or the nub in it is failing... aka aaz issue...
if that pump pin tool is 1/3-2/3 a tooth off.. the crank sprocket is failing.. no other way to be 1/2 tooth off... i can take you a pic of this.. have one on my shelf...
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ohers can reply again.. i just wanted him to read that... but only way you cannot get a pump pin in line with tdc... crank sprocket timming... the belt between those 2 tdc spots will always be the same.. why the cam spins free..
so if the pump gear teeth cannot line up and are 1/2 tooth off.. think of pointer on pump mount.. scribe one even.. 1/2 tooth is easy to see.. it would be in the valley or top of mountain if you think of what 1/2 tooth is..
thats less then 1/4 tooth on crank pully...
why using proper diesel tools can save you money.. not something you usually catch when its just new sprocket time... its usiually new head time..
pulling the old crank bolt not so bad.. making it tight.. thats the trick.. honestly.. if the bolt comes loose easier then expected.. you just saved major $ but i have no good way for you to retighted it.. i feel a flywheel lock is the only good way...
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Are all pump sprockets the same? Could I have the wrong sprocket where the hole is in a different spot?
I'll have to check how far off the holes are.
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Sounds wierd. I use the tools and there is a choice between being loose and taking slack out of the timing belt between ip pulley and crank, which won't walk if you feed the timing belt onto cam that is off the nose at the end since its tapered. It will tell you where to put pulley and won't make anything walk.
Never had a problem timing a pump at that point.
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same diameter... yes... 1.6 vs 1.9.. no idea if tdc same spot.. but for a eco diesel = 1.6 so i cannot see how you would have mismatched pump gear/pump bracket as till aaz.. same parts...
aaz got smaller im pully... taller block does not change pump mounting area to crank relations same too.. its taller above the pump mount bolt holes. so somehow its pump which has different mount set up.. must somehow keep crank timming to pump timming in check..
but again thats mmismatched parts.. now what you have.. you have not modded the crank fo ra d style tdi crank pully.. if off on that indexing that can throw off the pump pin lock.. again you have no excuse for that as you say you not messed with it..
i highly suggest removing the crank sprocket if you cannot fit the pump pin lock and be at tdc via flywheel at same time..
sadly i went looking at my shelf to take you a pic of how little damage the sprocket needs to give you this issue.. i showed it to bbob back in feb/mar.. and cannot find it to save my arss now.. came off my engine that dropped a valve about 1k after dropping the valve.. had a weird noise.. went looking.. found that in the dropping of valve it had enough force to break the crank bolt loose.. and worked the crank sprocket to where it was starting to fail and make a weird clack... when timming tools no longer fit.. i did the never do and turned the crank bolt ccw and wel lets just say it came loose way too easy... i figure 5-10k that engine would have been seeking another head..
ive had gasse4rs, 16v and 8v eat the crank pully too like aaz eat them.. its not as uncommon as one would think.. that was in 88-96 era...
if the tooth look funny at all.. just replace it.. the one i cannot find you can see where the tooth casting is starting to crack.. and how 1 side is worn/mushrooming.. again.. 1/4 tooth of slop at the crank is not much... but enough to be a issue with pump pin lock to tdc on flywheel..
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Turn crank bolt CCW is a never do? How do you turn the crank when doing timing?
I think the purpose of the woodruff key on the IP shaft is to align the sprocket hole and sheet metal hole. Can't see any of the reason for it. What do you think?
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I keep the car in fifth gear on level ground, with out the e-brake on. Simply and easily push it back and forth to move the engine CCW or CW.
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i turn crank ccw by alt if belts installed.. or stick 2 allen bolts in crank pully, stick screw driver between and turn.. but never ccw on crank bolt...
its bad habit to put things on crank bolts.. to forget wrench on it, hitting key.. that will ruin a good day.. breaks that bolt loose so nicely...
key on pump shaft... how else can you find #1 inside the fuel pump?? key to pully finds pumps tdc... then those brackets bolt to engines all in same way with titch of slop.. why ok if you got to turn the crank a titch this way or that to get pin out when at tdc is allowed.. but that hole is from the 77 1.5 thru aaz... it does not move, change so on... the flywheel tdc mark should line up with it... if it does not.. something is wrong...
mismatched parts.. aaz stuff on 1.6... d style tdi sprocket.. are the only ways it will not line up unless its sprocket is failing...
so install the pump pin and see if the flywheel can read tdc... if not... ignore me if you want... but i will say told ya so if it does fail and i see it...
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I keep the car in fifth gear on level ground, with out the e-brake on. Simply and easily push it back and forth to move the engine CCW or CW.
If not on level ground, will jacking up one wheel and turning the wheel work or do I have to jack up both wheels?
Does Bentley (don't have it handy now) tell you how to turn engine CCW?
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Bentley doesn't say much.
I jack up the passenger side and turn the wheel, tranny in 5th.
Regarding Libbydiesel's method:
... You need to preload the belt by turning the crank CCW a little and then CW back to TDC without passing TDC so that all of the slack of the belt is in the tensioner area. If that is done, then the crank will NOT move when tensioning the belt. If that is not done, then then crank will move and the cam timing will be retarded.
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i turn crank ccw by alt if belts installed.. or stick 2 allen bolts in crank pully, stick screw driver between and turn.. but never ccw on crank bolt...
experiance on ccw.. not in a book.. seen too many idiots screw up... its like those who put a wheel on snug by bad habbit then forgetting to torque them... never snug it down till your to the point of torquing them.. or installing a drain plug and not tighten at same moment.. you will soon or a later forget.. then things fall out/off...
so start with simple rules life good...
1.) never turn crank bolt ccw...
2.) never put drain plug in unless tight right now
3.) never snug down or install all lugs till you torque time..
just good rules to live by if you work on cars...
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i turn crank ccw by alt if belts installed.. or stick 2 allen bolts in crank pully, stick screw driver between and turn.. but never ccw on crank bolt...
its bad habit to put things on crank bolts.. to forget wrench on it, hitting key.. that will ruin a good day.. breaks that bolt loose so nicely...
key on pump shaft... how else can you find #1 inside the fuel pump?? key to pully finds pumps tdc... then those brackets bolt to engines all in same way with titch of slop.. why ok if you got to turn the crank a titch this way or that to get pin out when at tdc is allowed.. but that hole is from the 77 1.5 thru aaz... it does not move, change so on... the flywheel tdc mark should line up with it... if it does not.. something is wrong...
mismatched parts.. aaz stuff on 1.6... d style tdi sprocket.. are the only ways it will not line up unless its sprocket is failing...
so install the pump pin and see if the flywheel can read tdc... if not... ignore me if you want... but i will say told ya so if it does fail and i see it...
I disconnected the battery so I can't spin the motor by accident. It did not take much torque to turn crankshaft bolt CCW and felt safe to me. I will convert to safer practice from now on.
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all i am saying.. ive watched a many employee screw this up thru my youth... father had a few wizbangs in the 80s show me what not to do...
but the pump pin to tdc.. that self lesson there... i was able to install new pully as no damage to crank yet.. ive had ones with damaged cranks be able to be saved with red loctite.. when it sets up forms a nice hard spot to fill the imperfect crank.. but a tdi style crank sproclet is best fix if its really damaged..
but to catch it now.. does not damage head/valves.. and if they do not line up.. you have to find out why...
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If I do it right, i.e.
1 flywheel at TDC
2 cam plate in cam slot
3 IP pin in
It ends up IP is at the end of adjustment and can't advance to spec timing.
What am ai doing wrong?
Tools are bought and fit snug
You don't have the "cam sprocket is loose" in that description.
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If I do it right, i.e.
1 flywheel at TDC
2 cam plate in cam slot
3 IP pin in
It ends up IP is at the end of adjustment and can't advance to spec timing.
What am ai doing wrong?
Tools are bought and fit snug
You don't have the "cam sprocket is loose" in that description.
I think you hit the nail on the head. I was trying to save some work but it's the wrong way to do it.
Timing belt and tensioner has a little over 30 k on it. I have a new timing belt and tensioner. Should I throw that in?
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New timing belt and tensioner and it's running better than ever. The old tensioner w 30k had a little play. Maybe belt tension was too tight? On the new belt I made the tension slightly less (by feel). Wish I have a belt tension gauge.
I set the timing more advanced to 1.03 mm.
Tried the Libby tension method and cam timing was off after belt tensioning and had to redo. Don't know what I did wrong.
A while ago, I made this IP sprocket puller out of 020 tranny bell housing bolts and a bracket I had laying around and used it on the car the first time and it worked great! The ram bolt is pointy already and fit the IP shaft dimple perfectly.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20130820_114739_zps90b88ac6.jpg)
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Another view of the puller.
Thanks for all the help! Everything is all lined up this time.
FW TDC
Cam plate in cam slot
Pin in IP sprocket
timing set to 1.03 mm
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/IMG_20130820_114823_zps6f1e8af8.jpg)
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Here's my procedure for easily setting the cam timing precisely and accurately every time. I'm sure I've posted it before, but here it is reiterated.
Remove the cam sprocket.
Clean the cam sprocket and the taper on the end of the cam with brake clean.
Place the crank at TDC.
Place the cam at TDC using the cam lock and install equal feeler gauges on either side so that it is both snug and parallel to the head.
Install the pump lock in the pump sprocket.
Place the timing belt on the engine correctly around the crank, int shaft, tensioner and pump sprockets.
Place the cam sprocket into the remaining part of the belt and put it onto the cam taper.
Install the bolt onto the cam sprocket until it is snug but the cam sprocket can still turn easily.
Remove the pump lock.
Rotate the crank counter clockwise a few degrees (maybe 10°) and then rotate back to TDC without going past - this step is of utmost importance as it places any belt slack at the tensioner.
Tension the belt using the correct VW tension measuring tool on a 1.6 or the spring loaded tensioner on a 1.9.
Check to be sure the crank has not moved - if it has, then you did not load the slack at the tensioner correctly.
Tighten cam bolt to 25 ft-lbs.
Remove cam lock and feeler gauges.
Hold the cam sprocket by hand (or use a pulley holder if you are weak) and torque to 45 ft-lbs (I know the book says 33 ft-lbs but IMO it is not enough).
Tap the cam bolt with a hammer and recheck the torque.
Rotate the crank two full rotations back to TDC without going past and double-check the cam timing with the bar and feelers.
Tried the Libby tension method and cam timing was off after belt tensioning and had to redo. Don't know what I did wrong.
The cam sprocket bolt should be torqued AFTER you tension the belt. If the correct order is used the cam timing will be correct.
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i do not tighten the cam bolt till tenson acheived... else willl move cam timming when you do.. why the cam gear spins free... but unless you know how loose to set it.. tightening it makes belt more tight.. you tend to have to do it couple times.. but if you knew all you had to do was loosen the cam bolt.. tap the pully to release it.. turn cam, then retorque the cam bolt life was good.. if not.. now you know...
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I pretty much did exactly as you have written below but the cam plate would not fit in the slot w flywheel at TDC after the tensioning belt then tightening cam bolt. At that point I rotated however slight till cam plate fit, loosened the cam bolt, knocked the cam sprocket loose, turned flywheel to tdc with screwdriver via timing inspection hole, tightened cam bolt and everything is perfect.
When I rotated the engine ccw 10 deg then cw to tdc (w/o going past tdc), it did not shift the belt tension. It reverted to before I did the ccw rotation. A video would help.
Here's my procedure for easily setting the cam timing precisely and accurately every time. I'm sure I've posted it before, but here it is reiterated.
Remove the cam sprocket.
Clean the cam sprocket and the taper on the end of the cam with brake clean.
Place the crank at TDC.
Place the cam at TDC using the cam lock and install equal feeler gauges on either side so that it is both snug and parallel to the head.
Install the pump lock in the pump sprocket.
Place the timing belt on the engine correctly around the crank, int shaft, tensioner and pump sprockets.
Place the cam sprocket into the remaining part of the belt and put it onto the cam taper.
Install the bolt onto the cam sprocket until it is snug but the cam sprocket can still turn easily.
Remove the pump lock.
Rotate the crank counter clockwise a few degrees (maybe 10°) and then rotate back to TDC without going past - this step is of utmost importance as it places any belt slack at the tensioner.
Tension the belt using the correct VW tension measuring tool on a 1.6 or the spring loaded tensioner on a 1.9.
Check to be sure the crank has not moved - if it has, then you did not load the slack at the tensioner correctly.
Tighten cam bolt to 25 ft-lbs.
Remove cam lock and feeler gauges.
Hold the cam sprocket by hand (or use a pulley holder if you are weak) and torque to 45 ft-lbs (I know the book says 33 ft-lbs but IMO it is not enough).
Tap the cam bolt with a hammer and recheck the torque.
Rotate the crank two full rotations back to TDC without going past and double-check the cam timing with the bar and feelers.
Tried the Libby tension method and cam timing was off after belt tensioning and had to redo. Don't know what I did wrong.
The cam sprocket bolt should be torqued AFTER you tension the belt. If the correct order is used the cam timing will be correct.
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Don't use the injection pump pin.
Line up the lines.
Get the cam/crank timing right first, then deal with pump timing.
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I highly suggest getting the tension gauge... it takes the guess work out of getting the correct tension
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I highly suggest getting the tension gauge... it takes the guess work out of getting the correct tension
Which one do you have? VW210 Is the factory tool and I'm not sure if it's available anymore.
Found this universal one on eBay. How would you know how accurate it is? Nothing worse than a tool you cannot trust.
www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-VW-Audi-Volvo-Timing-Cam-Drive-V-Belt-Tension-Tensioning-Gauge-Tool-/261269186172?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3cd4db667c&vxp=mtr
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Nice find. It would be interesting to learn how accurate that tool is.
Based on the design, it appears that it relies on a spring placed inside that micrometer-style housing.
If the spring is of the correct dimensions, I hope it should be reliable.
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Bentley says to use crankshaft bolt, so it must be safe as far as not loosening the bolt.
I like turning the wheel in 5th better.
quote author=TylerDurden link=topic=33811.msg317617#msg317617 date=1377004222]
Bentley doesn't say much.
I jack up the passenger side and turn the wheel, tranny in 5th.
Regarding Libbydiesel's method:
... You need to preload the belt by turning the crank CCW a little and then CW back to TDC without passing TDC so that all of the slack of the belt is in the tensioner area. If that is done, then the crank will NOT move when tensioning the belt. If that is not done, then then crank will move and the cam timing will be retarded.
[/quote]
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I just installed a new water pump made by Graf in my Eco. Unlike the old pump, which has a cast iron impeller, the Grap is a totally different design with a stamp sheet metal impeller. I took a long drive today and noticed idling in traffic, the temp gauge sits a little higher than the old pump. That shows the old pump moves more water at idle.
Another problem I am having is a a bad high frequency vibration starting at 2500 rpm and up. It is most noticeable in the throttle pedal, where I can feel it tingling my foot. This vibration was not there before I changed the water pump. Along with the water pump, I also changed the timing belt and tensioner and advanced the timing from 1.00 mm to 1.03 mm. Can advancing the timing be the cause of this vibration? 1.03 mm is within spec per the Bentley for my engine (1V).
I certainly hope it is not the water pump since it is not a fun job and I'd hate to have to do it again. I did torque every bolt to spec. I will go and check my work and see if I can find the source of the vib. Meanwhile, if you have an inputs, I'd like to hear it.
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The tool you posted looks like the zdmak tool I purchased on ebay a year ago. I did a quick search on the quality of the tools and the reviews were good . Do a search on their page for MK-142BG http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp
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yea stamped run hotter... and there is 2 kinds.. big cooler round town.. smaller hotter down road...
cat best.. but becommin unotainium.. plastic fail...
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Are all 4 injection pump mounting bolts tight? If you forgot about the back one it will cause vibes like you are describing.
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Are all 4 injection pump mounting bolts tight? If you forgot about the back one it will cause vibes like you are describing.
Good point.. That bolt is easy to forget!
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I think I tightened all 4 but will ccheck tomorrow.
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The bolt and special cone nut is missing. Must have vibrated off and lost on the road. I think I have a spare set somewhere. In the meantime can I use a regular bolt nut + washers?
Vibrations not good in general. What usually breaks if this was unattended to?
Sent from my MB860 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
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I put in a regular nut/bolt/ washer for now and the vibration is gone.
Anyone have a special cone nut if I can't find mine?
Sent from my MB860 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
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do not ask a dealer how much... if you do sit down first...
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Tapered nut: 068130197 ; 068130143
$4.27
http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Volkswagen-VW/1986/Jetta16L-TD5-MT/Tapered-nut/5140968/068130197.html
(You might need the bushing too.)
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Tapered nut: 068130197 ; 068130143
$4.27
http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/products/Volkswagen-VW/1986/Jetta16L-TD5-MT/Tapered-nut/5140968/068130197.html
(You might need the bushing too.)
Thanks.
Bushing? I thought it's just a bolt and the tapered nut? The images on the site don't work for me so I'm not sure what the part looks like.
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Are all 4 injection pump mounting bolts tight? If you forgot about the back one it will cause vibes like you are describing.
Another symptom I did not mention in addition to the throttle pedal vibration was a surging while accelerating at speeds around 55 MPH. The surge rate was approx 2 hz and lasts a second or two if I let up on the pedal. I assume it is related to the missing back bolt. What is actually happening in the IP that would make it do that? Is the pump twisting at a 2 hz rate somehow interfering with the fuel being injected?
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^ Ja, the harmonics are wicked. They prolly interfere with the swing of the governor weights, causing movement that shifts the control collar.
As for the bushing, it is like the bushing for the alternator bracket, but it has the tapered recess to fit the nut. It is usually trapped by the IP, but check for it being there, just in case...
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-261BgbLRAUI/UhdjXg48XBI/AAAAAAAABSE/1g-0fvkz-_c/s800/IP-Nut_Bush.jpg)
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^ Ja, the harmonics are wicked. They prolly interfere with the swing of the governor weights, causing movement that shifts the control collar.
As for the bushing, it is like the bushing for the alternator bracket, but it has the tapered recess to fit the nut. It is usually trapped by the IP, but check for it being there, just in case...
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-261BgbLRAUI/UhdjXg48XBI/AAAAAAAABSE/1g-0fvkz-_c/s800/IP-Nut_Bush.jpg)
My bushing is still there. Is 33 the bushing? Pic does not show the split in the (brass) bushing that's in mine.
I got a used tapered nut and bolt installed and torqued down. No more vibration or surging.
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Ja #33 is the bushing. I don't think it is supposed to have any split.
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Ja #33 is the bushing. I don't think it is supposed to have any split.
My brass colored bushing clearly had a split in it.
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supposed too.. else would never work...