VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: dave friday on March 30, 2013, 04:51:36 am
-
Hi all,first engine history; complete re-build,block bored, new pistons and rings all bearings replaced,new cylinder head etc all done 40,000miles ago and 5 years ago,2years ago head gasket replaced[tops of pistons looked very oily!] 1 year ago turbo replaced.
Now its using a lot of oil..2pints in 200miles!! im hoping its got stuck rings,so any advice for un-sticking them?
Ta.
-
Liqui-Moly makes a product for this purpose, to clean gunk out of your engine, which should free the lifters and rings, but the oil farm trick is to put kerosene in the oil at about a ratio of 1 part kerosene 4 parts oil, and run until the engine reaches operating temperature, then drain the oil. It seems kind of mean to the engine though. Alternatively, you can use automatic transmission fluid in the same ratio and run it for longer, maybe 30 minutes than change the oil.
But if you're using a proper diesel oil, and changing it on schedule, I kind of doubt you have a problem like stuck rings. It is a problem usually seen in engines that have been abused/neglected. I would think worn valve seals or a leaking turbo is more likely.
-
If you have run it on WMO I have heard tales of stuck rings..
I have done a oil/diesel mix to flush engines.
I feel if there is "enough" lubrication for our IP's then there is ok to be a part of the oil for the engine bearings.
-
Thanks both, its only been used on diesel,it had one overheat [before the hg replacement] could this have cooked the valve seals and maybe the rings?.
Just for info;its a jx engine[solid lifters] fitted as standard to t3s in the uk.
Last compression check was 370psi on all 4 cylinders.
Is there any point putting atf in the diesel?
And what about squirting some atf into the injector holes [to free up the rings]?
-
Putting a small amount of solvent in each cylinder to soak can work, just remember it can fire if you replace the injectors and crank (or hydrolock if you put in a lot).
I crank the engine quite a few turns with the injectors removed after a soaking, to clear remaining solvents before compression testing.
You may see the compression drop significantly. I had an engine with enough coke to seal a broken ring... After soaking, it wouldn't start.
-
I don't think it is rings. What was the history of consumption before this 2 pints in 200? If rings seat they usually don't un seat, they just wear out. That takes longer. One could have broken, especially if ether was used.
My bet is the turbo or its associated parts like the drain line has a hole. I wouldn't run anything in the diesel or the oil until you do a leak down and compression tests to see if it is the rings/valves.
-
Thanks,will do a compression check and look for leaks[i dont see any oil on the ground].
-
>:(it had one overheat [before the hg replacement] could this have cooked the valve seals and maybe the rings?.
-
Liqui-Moly makes a product for this purpose, to clean gunk out of your engine, which should free the lifters and rings, but the oil farm trick is to put kerosene in the oil at about a ratio of 1 part kerosene 4 parts oil, and run until the engine reaches operating temperature, then drain the oil. It seems kind of mean to the engine though. Alternatively, you can use automatic transmission fluid in the same ratio and run it for longer, maybe 30 minutes than change the oil.
But if you're using a proper diesel oil, and changing it on schedule, I kind of doubt you have a problem like stuck rings. It is a problem usually seen in engines that have been abused/neglected. I would think worn valve seals or a leaking turbo is more likely.
I usually run ATF for 500+ miles at a time to clean the engines...
i usually go 2500 on an OCI, then i dump in a qt of ATF, and run it till i drain it..
i had the valve cover off my gasser a while back, and it was spotless clean metal... when i got the car, different story.
-
Thanks R.O.R [whats "oci"].
Update; have found some oil [about a thimble full ] in the inlet to the turbo,but no play on the shaft so i assume the oil is from the valve seals,there is quite a lot of oil around the bell housing [but no drips].
I am waiting on valve seals and head gasket and am making a valve spring compresor to change the seals in the van.
Any comments?.
-
Oil in the turbo inlet came from the valve seals how? Likely just oil from the CCV system
OCI = Oil Change Interval
CCV= Crank Case Ventilation
-
Thanks 8v,yes oil from the seals is a bit unlikely,have replaced one of the valve seals [so far ] there is/was quite a lot of sludge under the cam follower and on the top half of the valve springs,doing the rest tomorrow!!
-
Hoping that your high oil consumption is stuck rings is a pipe dream. Most likely the rings lost their tension or worse when you overheated it. Especially if you used cheap rings at the rebuild. I would leak down the motor as well as running a compression test. How is the blowby when running at idle? These are so easy to get the pistons out of, I would get a set of good rings and pull the pistons for inspection.
-
Thanks Toby [and co ] ive replaced the valve guide seals! there is a bit of play on the valve stems!,I'm doing a 60 mile trip on monday so will find out then if doing the seals has fixed the high oil consumption.
-
Hi all,so...the valve stem oil seals replacement did'nt fix the high oil consumption!.
Ive also put 250mls atf in the diesel, no change!.
So what to do next?.
-
My bet is the turbo or its associated parts like the drain line has a hole. I wouldn't run anything in the diesel or the oil until you do a leak down and compression tests to see if it is the rings/valves.
I'd pull the elbow between the turbo and intake to check for leaking turbo seals, plus do the compression/leakdown tests.
-
Unless you get really lucky and find a bad turbo seal you will need to pull the head, jerk the pan, and change the rings. It should only take you about 8 hours.
-
Bad turbo seals can blow a bit of oil... I'm putting 1qt/350mi into one of my Jettas.
-
Just did a compression check;320,340,320,320 !!but i am at 2500ft.
what i dont get is, no blue smoke!
-
what i dont get is, no blue smoke!
It gets burned like the fuel.
-
ive only checked the top ring..1.65mm gap at 1.25inches from the top of the bore.
Can i use non stretch big end bolts?.
-
what i dont get is, no blue smoke!
It gets burned like the fuel.
Yup. it only smokes blue on an engine with a throttle plate or restricted intake tract.
-
Before i replaced the turbo [may 2012] it would lay a big blue cloud on full throttle.
-
I, admittedly foolishly, swapped a really high mile TD to synthetic years ago and it would most assuredly smoke blue at idle and under hard acceleration. Wasn't there the week before on dino and was gone a week after back on dino. It was wore the heck out. :-)
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
-
ok a bit more;second compression ring .45mm so in spec,oil control ring 1.50mm so well worn out [like the top ring ].
Looks like i got sold a mixed of rings !!.
So tomorrow we look for rings!.
-
who did the turbo? I stated earlier that I thought it could be somewhere in the turbo parts.
-
Turbo was a re-con done by a UK company,no play in the shaft and no oil in the compressor,so you dont think the worn rings are the cause of the very low compression?
-
Possible, but I had one that had 240 -260 in the holes and it didn't use oil it just started hard.
-
Thanks,well it starts instantly [like a direct injection engine] just runs a little rough if i dont have the cold start pulled out.
I plan on replacing the crank oil seal [flywheel end].
Thanks for all the advice.
-
Well I did find one stuck ring the second compression ring on cylinder number four!
Im waiting for stretch big end bolts ....