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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: jeff115 on September 10, 2012, 05:47:59 pm
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is it common for the exhaust studs to brake? the four studs on the two passenger side ports brake all the time, usually in less than 500 miles? ???
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no, not common....
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Depends where you are buying your parts from ::)
NA or TD?
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warped manifold???
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whatcha got...a turbo or na?...id try getting the correct nuts and washers and replace all the studs...maybe tq them from the center to outwards also...hey didnt rabbits have a tie strap to hold the exh manifold to the intake manifold also...im just making suggestions cause im not sure if its turbo or na...ive never seen one warped and cause that probl,em tho
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They usually only break when you're trying to remove your exhaust manifold, this sounds like it's happening while you're driving which is not common. How are your engine mounts? Are you missing any or all of your exhaust hangers?
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its a td, exhaust hangers in place, correct washers in place, vw studs, the manifold is straight, but not stock its an ebay with t3 footprint. ???this thing is starting to frustrate me. I love the car but changing the studs all the time is getting old, and this time a couple broke off flush with the head. so Im not sure how to get those out?
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http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=221945 <===by me on how I do it.
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So, basically you have a T3 hanging straight off the back of the engine. Did you add a brace to triangulate it to the block?
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that's a great way to get them out. that makes me happy.
yes there is turbo just hanging off the back..... its usually the bottom studs that break though, and I don't think that baby guy is enough to break any thing any way
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Maybe try not to tighten them too much and not bottom out the studs when installing.
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Someone should post pictures of said brace to block. I lose exhaust studs frequently.
Sent from my DROID X2
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ill try not bottoming them out, I dont think Im tightening them to tight? they are so tiny that im scared to tighten them to much so alot of the time they come loose too.
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I am sure, Germans being Germans they probably have a torque spec in the bentley. I regretfully can say I never have used it.
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oh good call. ill look fro that spec. but im thinking some 10mm studs- might have to do some clearance work with a die grinder, and a brace from bellow. if its way over built it usually works right?
thanks for the ideas/advise guys!
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i wanna say the tq is 18 ft pounds...or it could be 11...crap i cant remember...someone will post though id bet...
actually you do not wanna use grade 8 fastners...they are too hard and dont expand enough or the same as the manifold and turbo...grade 5 stuff is ok..thas wat i lurned in tek skool n stuff..yea you would think ya want hardened stuff,but just the opposite,ya need flex for heat expansion
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Got the fatty exhaust washers?
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Got the fatty exhaust washers?
yes
i wanna say the tq is 18 ft pounds...or it could be 11...crap i cant remember...someone will post though id bet...
actually you do not wanna use grade 8 fastners...they are too hard and dont expand enough or the same as the manifold and turbo...grade 5 stuff is ok..thas wat i lurned in tek skool n stuff..yea you would think ya want hardened stuff,but just the opposite,ya need flex for heat expansion
never would have thought that.
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Kinda offtopic, but what T3 are you running?
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Yeah from what hillforlk'r says is accurate. The Grade 8 are much stronger, but lack stretch. You will get way more clamping force with a Grade 8, but if the tensile of the fastener is 120,000 psi it will usually break past that. Grade 5 on the other hand is lots less tensile at around 80,000 but it will give some before it breaks. It will stretch and deform, where the grade 8 will just call no joy and give it up.
If you still need the bentley spec I will get it later if you ask.
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Probably wont need the torque specs I stopped at oreily's today and got some 3/8-16 header bolts so hopefully that helps.
Kinda offtopic, but what T3 are you running?
I have run several so far I had a t3to4e from ebay and it sucked. pretty close to the stock t3, but a little bit more laggy. then I had an ebay gt15, witch was left on for the longest because it worked good. drove it for about a month @26 psi still running strong but I wanted to try something else so now I have an ebay gt28rs. hopefully ill have the manifold all sorted out to see how it works this weekend.
the first two ebay turbos I used because I had them...
they didnt leak oil or blow up like I allways here and I pushed the gt15 pretty hard in bad conditions. so I have faith in them. well see how this new one works.
specs are
compressor turbine
inducer 54.13mm inducer 52.00mm
exducer 70.00mm exducer 45.00mm
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please dont thread your head for 3/8-16 bolts!
bolts are worse than studs..
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yea stick with the studs fer sur...just like head studs,they are better than bolts,sothe same applies for the exhaust(or most any application)...even though i graduated from tech school in 97,there isnt a day that goes by im referring back to what i got learned :)
still gettin learned every day too!
not like you would have to but repeated removal/install of" bolts" would start to wear out the head.
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Here's a pic of turbo braces:
http://aki76.kuvat.fi/kuvat/vento+TTSI/09042012027.jpg
Aki's work once again.
Ball bearings work great as they allow small margin of movement - will not cause breaking of brace joints.
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yea stick with the studs fer sur...just like head studs,they are better than bolts,sothe same applies for the exhaust(or most any application)...even though i graduated from tech school in 97,there isnt a day that goes by im referring back to what i got learned :)
still gettin learned every day too!
not like you would have to but repeated removal/install of" bolts" would start to wear out the head.
yea, the head is REALLY SOFT aluminum..
the bolts are REALLY HARD steel..
the steel wins every time..
nothing like taking a header bolt out, and finding a coil of aluminum wrapped around the threads, that USED TO BE the threads from the head..