VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => Upgrades (non engine related ) => Topic started by: erice1984 on July 20, 2012, 12:36:37 am
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My vehicle: 80 Rabbit, AAZ + 020 5-spd (ASF)
I bought this flywheel from the local parts store. It is 210mm from 92 Golf 1.8L PF Engine Clutch was from the same.
Part Number: IMC Zimmermann 050 54002 398
I have two questions:
1.) The TDC mark, is it the same regardless of diesel AAZ, gas PF engines?
2.) Where is the TDC mark?
I have two large marks on the flywheel. I was reading that the TDC is a small mark and near a bolt. The bolt, is it in between the large marks?
Thanks for the help
-Eric
The picture below is not one of MY flywheel. I found it on the web for reference.
The second picture has the weird mark colored in and person was claiming that this mark is the TDC mark.
So is it A or B or neither?
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the dimple closer to the bolt hole is the TDC mark.
the NOTCH is the 6* timing mark..
use the dimple closest to the bolt hole to find TDC. mark it with some nail polish, or paint marker, whatever..
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Thet AAZ flywheel will be marked correctly. The gas one then follow kevin's advice.
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Is this flywheel BRAND NEW?
If so, do you have a way (digital caliper, etc.) to precisely measure the distance between 1) the lower flat clutch plate friction surface and 2) the upper machined flat surface (where the pressure plate rests in the flywheel wall)?
I have been dying to find someone with a new flywheel to measure and report that distance. I believe it is about 28 mm.? Can you handle this measurement or ask someone else to do it?
I've never been able to get a true answer out of anyone. This info is important to know when having a used flywheel machined and checking for previous (unknown) machine work. You see, all my spare flywheels are of totally unknown origin. Would appreciate an intelligent measurement.
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Is this flywheel BRAND NEW?
If so, do you have a way (digital caliper, etc.) to precisely measure the distance between 1) the lower flat clutch plate friction surface and 2) the upper machined flat surface (where the pressure plate rests in the flywheel wall)?
I have been dying to find someone with a new flywheel to measure and report that distance. I believe it is about 28 mm.? Can you handle this measurement or ask someone else to do it?
I've never been able to get a true answer out of anyone. This info is important to know when having a used flywheel machined and checking for previous (unknown) machine work. You see, all my spare flywheels are of totally unknown origin. Would appreciate an intelligent measurement.
Sorry, it is already in the car. Go to a parts store, have them order one. Measure it, return it (unused). You got your measurement! Or call a manufacturer of the part and ask them for the information if they will give it to you.
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Here is a picture of my flywheel. I didn't see any other marks on the flywheel other than this one. It was the closest to my straw-into-the-fuel-inj-hole-finding-TDC method, so I am assuming it is the TDC mark (the top mark).
Anyone confirm?
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congrats.. you have a DIGI flywheel.. aka NO TIMING/TDC MARK..
its gotta be right at the edge of the bolt head recess.. that mark is the 6* mark..
it will KNOCK every time you shift, if you time it with that mark..
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congrats.. you have a DIGI flywheel.. aka NO TIMING/TDC MARK..
its gotta be right at the edge of the bolt head recess.. that mark is the 6* mark..
it will KNOCK every time you shift, if you time it with that mark..
Thanks ROR. I really appreciate the help :)
This is what I ended up doing. I didn't have a chisel to make a nice line so I used a small drill bit.
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right where you have it, is about TDC. i would line up the pointer with the LEADING edge of the dimple.. thats a hair too far back, but in the general right spot!
congrats.. that will get you closer than the 6* timing mark for the digi engine.
glad i could be of some help..
i knew exactly what was wrong, simply because I HAVE DONE THE SAME THING.. and my engine never would time right. and it would KNOCK every time i shifted.
sounded like a BAD rod knock with every shift! only when revs were falling tho!
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DIgi doesnt have a TDC mark? wtf. means I timed my gf's 90 1.8 wrong then... LOL
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DIgi doesnt have a TDC mark? wtf. means I timed my gf's 90 1.8 wrong then... LOL
digi has a 6* timing mark for the ignition.. no TDC mark. i had to make my own, like the OP.
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when i did my aaz/210mm gas flwheel upgrade what i did was set my pump timeing to spec with the aaz flywheel in place them swap in the 210 gas flywheel and use the pump spec i recorded earlyer to set the flywheel in that place and them stamped the flywhell at the trans pointer for the tdc mark. it should be dead on.
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when i did my aaz/210mm gas flwheel upgrade what i did was set my pump timeing to spec with the aaz flywheel in place them swap in the 210 gas flywheel and use the pump spec i recorded earlyer to set the flywheel in that place and them stamped the flywhell at the trans pointer for the tdc mark. it should be dead on.
if your engine is not able to be timed, or you dont have the stock diesel wheel, then that is highly impossible..
its way easier to just find TDC and mark the location..
i happen to know that the TDC mark on every single VW 020 flywheel is in the EXACT SAME SPOT tho, so i can mark them by eye, and get them VERY CLOSE..
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when i did my aaz/210mm gas flwheel upgrade what i did was set my pump timeing to spec with the aaz flywheel in place them swap in the 210 gas flywheel and use the pump spec i recorded earlyer to set the flywheel in that place and them stamped the flywhell at the trans pointer for the tdc mark. it should be dead on.
Your method works perfectly, but what you could have done as well is just laid the two flywheels one on the other and transferred the mark.
so i can mark them by eye, and get them VERY CLOSE..
Isn't every timing job by eye since you don't lock the crank down, and you peer through a stupid dark hole to say "yeah that looks close enough" lol.
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so i can mark them by eye, and get them VERY CLOSE..
Isn't every timing job by eye since you don't lock the crank down, and you peer through a stupid dark hole to say "yeah that looks close enough" lol.
lol Exactly right...
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How much did your 210mm flywheel from 92 Golf weigh? I am thinking of doing the same with a 1.6TD going into Caddy but have heard that with diesel motors need at least 11lbs and up to work well - is there a minumum of sorts weight that a flywheel should be for using with diesel motors?
Was there a noticable difference in how the motor performed and do you consider this a practicul worthwhile conversion?
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wrong thread :-X
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How much did your 210mm flywheel from 92 Golf weigh? I am thinking of doing the same with a 1.6TD going into Caddy but have heard that with diesel motors need at least 11lbs and up to work well - is there a minumum of sorts weight that a flywheel should be for using with diesel motors?
Was there a noticable difference in how the motor performed and do you consider this a practicul worthwhile conversion?
I don't think any lighter than a stock 210mm flywheel is needed. 210mm is quite a bit lighter than the stock 200mm for that extra 5mm all the way around of extra machined surface. I am using a completely stock 210mm gasser setup with stock Sachs clutch kit on my AHU M-TDI right now and it revs up fantastically quick!
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I don't have a base to compare the 210mm flywheel to. I can say that the AAZ responds well to the 210mm flywheel without any adverse effects that I can tell. I would stay away from LIGHTENED flywheels especially.
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I don't have a base to compare the 210mm flywheel to. I can say that the AAZ responds well to the 210mm flywheel without any adverse effects that I can tell. I would stay away from LIGHTENED flywheels especially.
diesels come with heavy wheels factory. much more heavy than the gassers. (210mm atleast)
the diesel FW is like 17 pounds, while the gasser unit is 12.. i weighed them once upon a time.. fairly large difference.
so, to a diesel, even a stock gasser wheel is light..
and a lightened flywheel is just too light.. makes them vibrate much worse at idle as well..
heavy wheels are there to help smooth out the rough nature of these engines..