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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: One_punchmachinegun on April 11, 2012, 04:58:28 pm
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Anyone making downpipes for Mk2 anymore, i have a k24 turbo and looking for 2 1/2 - 3 inch downpipe with a flex at the end, i would attempt to make my own but lack the welding skills and tools. Really down feel like running stock. Just let me know.
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$170 flux core welder from ebay, + a flange, and pipe of whatever diameter you want. Total cost, ~$225 (assuming you either already have or can borrow a welding hood), but you own a welder at the end. It's what I did for my rabbit ;D
Or, alternatively, find somebody in the area who'll be your friend and let you use their welder. Beer does wonders.
Stock dp's just suck soooo much. ::)
I would make you one, but I don't have YOUR mk2 handy for test fitting. At least for me, exhaust systems are kind of in the 'cut to fit' category..
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Im sure someone would be happy to make you one depending on your LOCATION.
I have a nice mig welder, would have no problems making you what your looking for.
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http://www.partsplaceinc.com/products/product-detail.aspx?keyword=VW+Jetta+Turbo+Diesel+Downpipe+191-253-091&sku=1698
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http://www.partsplaceinc.com/products/product-detail.aspx?keyword=VW+Jetta+Turbo+Diesel+Downpipe+191-253-091&sku=1698
No, he means a custom job, not the stock toilet bowl. You know, the ones like at Techtonics Tuning, except he wands bigger I.D.
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_12_50_285&products_id=186 (http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_12_50_285&products_id=186)
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correct ;D ^
Yeah, im in Pa(USA) dont know if someone in pa has the tools to do a downpipe, i was thinking of attempting myself after getting the supplies. Now would i just make something that is similar to stock setup? same-ish layout and bends?
Little off subject but i just clocked my turbo and i am curious if the compressor side is to close to the exhaust manifold or would there be no issue?
(http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m571/TimmothyMelcher1/question005-1.jpg)
::)
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ah i see. i like that andy to bad its 400 dollars. i guess ill keep my terlit bowl. :'(
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I got all my supplies from Colombia river mandrel bending all 2.5" and even the t3 flange. Whichever flange you get it may have to ground down around the edges.
i used the following
1 u-pipe
1 - 18 degree bend
3 - 45 degree bends
1 - 90 degree bend
Approx 10 feet of straight pipe
Then remove all your stock pipe and use it to mock up all your cuts and wells away. I have a bunch of pics at home i can upload later today. I missed the flex pipe for some reason or another. I knew i needed it but i just got carried away.
an issue you may have with "clocking the turbo is clearance with your intake manifold
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I got all my supplies from Colombia river mandrel bending all 2.5" and even the t3 flange. Whichever flange you get it may have to ground down around the edges.
i used the following
1 u-pipe
1 - 18 degree bend
3 - 45 degree bends
1 - 90 degree bend
Approx 10 feet of straight pipe
Then remove all your stock pipe and use it to mock up all your cuts and wells away. I have a bunch of pics at home i can upload later today. I missed the flex pipe for some reason or another. I knew i needed it but i just got carried away.
an issue you may have with "clocking the turbo is clearance with your intake manifold
where you loacted Trips? i would assume somewhere in the 503 since your referring to columbia river mandrel..
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Negative, im located in the 604 :) Vancouver, BC Canada
Everything here is way overpriced, also not being able to drive meant that everything I needed had to be shipped. Colombia river had decent prices and shipping, as well there customer service was very good.
OP, definitely do a test fit with your intake manifold before you torque up up turbo. When I clocked my turbo for my IC piping I had the grind the intake mani and a/r housing.
As well make sure you use a high quality silicone coupler on your a/r inlet as its pretty darn close to the exhaust mani
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Negative, im located in the 604 :) Vancouver, BC Canada
Everything here is way overpriced, also not being able to drive meant that everything I needed had to be shipped. Colombia river had decent prices and shipping, as well there customer service was very good.
OP, definitely do a test fit with your intake manifold before you torque up up turbo. When I clocked my turbo for my IC piping I had the grind the intake mani and a/r housing.
As well make sure you use a high quality silicone coupler on your a/r inlet as its pretty darn close to the exhaust mani
you mind PMing me the details for columbia river mandrel? or atleast a phone number?
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you mind PMing me the details for columbia river mandrel? or atleast a phone number?
What? R.O.R. haz no Google-fu skillz?? :D ;) ;D
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
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you mind PMing me the details for columbia river mandrel? or atleast a phone number?
What? R.O.R. haz no Google-fu skillz?? :D ;) ;D
http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/
thought about that AFTER i posted the request..
lmao..
thanks Trips..
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do you mean getting the manifold to fit on the head or the piping to go to the compressor? Because i'm foing custom intercooling piping.
And thank you for the info on the piping, the ten feet of straight pipe was for downpipe back right? Pictures arent needed if its a hassel, but would help. Thank you guys, i have decided to do it myself, turns out my wife's uncle runs a rent-a-center and have a welder, so i should be able to do it. Will have to practiace a lot though. ::)
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I got all my supplies from Colombia river mandrel bending all 2.5" and even the t3 flange. Whichever flange you get it may have to ground down around the edges.
i used the following
1 u-pipe
1 - 18 degree bend
3 - 45 degree bends
1 - 90 degree bend
Approx 10 feet of straight pipe
Then remove all your stock pipe and use it to mock up all your cuts and wells away. I have a bunch of pics at home i can upload later today. I missed the flex pipe for some reason or another. I knew i needed it but i just got carried away.
an issue you may have with "clocking the turbo is clearance with your intake manifold
Post your pics. Quit holding out on us. Lol
Sent from my DROID X2
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Lol, im not even home from work yet!
put your intake mani on the head, bolt the turbo to the exhaust mani and then test fit it. The A/R housing may contact the intake because you rotated it. This will obviously prevent a proper seal and cause exhaust leaks. You may have to take an angle grinder and shave the areas of contact down until it bolts up nicely. If the exhaust mani doesnt slide onto the studs nice and flush and you torque it down you run the risks of cracking or breaking something
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ok, thank you, good lookin out ;D
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where in pa are you??? ive got tig/mig and for the right price could be presuaded to visit...
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east, near philidelphia. Looks like your from Ohio..
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ok heres some shots on what I did. 2.5" straight through no cat/res or muffler
Heres the u-pipe and 18 degree bend. I ended up cutting the u-pipe just off center. It worked out damn near perfect, lots of clearance at the shift linkage and about an inch of clearance at the steering rack. You can also see that I had to grind down one side of the flange as it interfered with the block off plate on my T3. Keep in mind the DP needs a flex pipe ::)
(http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/3606/wp000269e.jpg)
(http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/9246/wp000270t.jpg)
(http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/1913/wp000280.jpg)
and a couple other shots of lengths
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/8886/wp000273b.jpg)
(http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/1431/wp000274.jpg)
I forgot to mention that I also used a couple dual open-ended couplings. The exhaust pipe fit in both ends, I then welded one side to the pipe on the far side of exhaust flow and used a clamp on the other side
heres the best shot I could take of the turbo/intake mani interference. You can see the grinding I did but you can see how damn close they are to each other. And those bumps on the A/R housing where it bolts together realy limit where you rotate it too.
(http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/9339/1001400w.jpg)
And here, think about it. The stock setup in a 90 degree silicone coupling. That puts the smallest part of the A/R housing up by the intake mani. As you rotate it the housing becomes bigger
(http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/5750/wp000245.jpg)
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thank you for the downpipe pictures it really helps.
I see what your saying about the turbo/intake mani interference. That is what im going to work on figuring out as soon as i get off work. That and what I'm going to do about transmissions.
I will keep this updated with what i do with the downpipe. I will try to take lots of pictures. Thanks Trips
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yep ne ohio... you got 220 in your garage/project place? i gotta run to phily area soon...
a single "J" pipe, a flange to turbo and a REAL V BAND clamp set up and flex tube should get your pipe made up...
what i do is build a down pipe.. v band it.. then v band the other end of the flex... so if the flex fails.. can just change it.. not open up the down pipe again... on a mk2/mk3 i see no reason this "flex" cannot be made in the straight run above the steering rack.. then on the other end add in the "45*" to line it up with the center pipe..
there is so many ways to do this though... but i highly reccomend v band clamps..
2.5" stainless "j" bend pipes from summit racing are/were 35ish.. last year when i built my toaster one.. flex is 20 ish.. and v band clamps are a arss pounding grab your ankles 35 each.. before the 15 each on shipping.. i got so ass plowed... but the quality of the ones i got were worth the lack of the reach around... ive since seen others and mine were machined from solid stainless vs crimped crappy ones... crimped IMO will crack/break vs the solid style i got..
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man that looks good. how do you have in it? for all the piping?