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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 16V-Sauger on February 09, 2006, 12:52:21 pm
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good evening,
i would like to introduce myself and my car, if it is allowed :lol:
i used to drive a 1.6l mk2, called the black beauty :lol: last year i had to change the engine caused by to much wear between pistons and the block itself.
the actual engine produced ~100hp when it killed its first gearbox. after replacing the transmission and putting a new gti clutch in, it drove about 1000km perfectly. but it was to much torque for the clutch and she burned down.
the block shows much wear at the moment so i will rebuild that engine.
i´m going to build in:
- intake manifold from the latest corrado g60 (much bigger intakes)
- completely P&P'ed head with grinded valves
- camshaft from mk1 gti
- 70mm downpipe after garret t02 (comes from an aaz)
- calculated exhaust manifold which is called "stosswellenkrümmer" here in germany. don't know what it is in english but it has exactly the same "runner" lengths
- new sealed and optimized pump with fuel heating and in-take pump to be able to drive with salad-oil from supermarket
- g60/vr6 clutch with 02A "AYN"
i would like to rev up to ~5500 and the engine should bring power up to that point before it maxes out.
now i was thinking about upgrading to 1.8l. we have a few cheap options here in germany so rebuilding with 1.6l or upgrading to 1.8l would cost the same.
so i would use a set of conrods from an audi rs2 which has now the 9mm rod bolts from a g60. the rods will be blasted with steel balls and polished after that.
does anyone has further information on such a rebuild? does anyone know how hot the exhaust gases in a td are? i was thinking of using non-sodium filled exhaust valves to be able to grind them really down, shaft should be about 5mm thick.
what could be done to the pump to fullfill my expectations?
last but not least, a few pics of my car :)
(http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-front1.jpg) (http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-front.jpg)
(http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-seite1.jpg) (http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-seite.jpg)
(http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-innen1.jpg) (http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-innen.jpg)
(http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-schraeg1.jpg) (http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-schraeg.jpg)
(http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-motor1.jpg) (http://free.pages.at/leinad1978/gtd-motor.jpg)
comments are also welcome :)
thanks for giving me advice
p.s. pics can be made larger by clicking them
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Hi,
So your boring out a 1.6 and building a 1.8 TD ? Impressive.
I could bearly see the engine in the pics. What rocker cover do you have on your GTD motor ?
Matt
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am I imagining things or does the badge on the front of that Golf say "syncro"? Is that thing an AWD? Never seen such a thing before if it is, we don't have them here in Canada. Also looks like it has an intercooler in there similar to the ones that came on the early GTDs. You Europeans have all the cool VWs. Someday I have to get over there again and buy myself one and ship it back here.
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yeah I was goning to ask the same thing - is it really a syncro?
bloody lovely anyway :D 8) , looks classicly german if there is such a thing
what mods did the old engine have for 100hp?
would it not just be better/easier to go for a 1.9?
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That's pretty hot. I like the big window doors with chrome trim... nothing we ever got here. Along with the million switches on the dash.
AYN is a 8/90-12/90 Corrado and Golf gearbox code, so it's not Syncro.
Why do you have 4dr power window switches?
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thanks for your kind words. :D
no big problem to install the RWD outlet from a syncro transmission to a FWD transmission :wink: but, your right. sadly it's not a syncro.
i bought a syncro in 2003 to get the A/C and the power steering out of it. sadly the body was so much damaged that i only could bring it to the junk yard.
the inside is almost what i expect it to be, i only have to install the last parts for the SSA (start-stop-unit). i have 4 power window switches, one for each side, one for the central locking and one for the power-sunroof.
the cover on that engine is a polished one from a g60, fits perfectly :)
the intercooler is indeed from a 80hp SB which i got from german ebay. because of the A/C there is not enough space to put a larger intercooler in front of the water-cooler. so i had to mount this one. i will saw i hole into the hood, when the engine goes out, to give that intercooler a little bit more air.
the problem with getting a 1.9l aaz or something is that they are very expensive here in germany as the fuel is getting more expensive every week. we have to pay 1,30$ for one litre. and thats only diesel. 98octane is around 1,70$ / L. so many people sell there gasoline cars and buy cheaper diesel cars. and the biggest problem with an other engine is that you don't know what the engine is looking like inside :oops:
the boring and honing will cost me ~200$, pistons ~60$ and the rods have costed me ~30$. the head will be P&P'ed by myself and checked on a flowbench at the university i'm studying right now.
i hope that i can bring it back to life for around 500$ including new seals and bearings
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Welcome - and thanks for introducing yourself. Awesome project!
Your description of "stosswellenkrümmer" sounds like it means "headers" in english. It's something I've been interested in experimenting with on our motors. I'd be interested to see how you make your headers and the turbocharger fit underneath a G60 intake manifold.
The peak pre-turbine exhaust gas temperature for a stock 1.6lTD is 1500 deg. F (815 deg. C) pre-turbine.
Keep us updated... :)
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If you want a Golf Syncro (aka golf 'country') in Canada, talk to this guy:
http://www.syncro.ca/
his busness site:
http://www.fastforward.ca/
The Golf Country his wife drives. I drove it last year and its pretty sweet.
(http://images4.pictiger.com/images/5b/7e3baa592c8fc98c0ebc5d9f3343e15b.jpg) (http://www.pictiger.com/)
He had it at a Vancouver VW meet and people kept saying stuff like 'why did you do that?' not realizing it was from the factory.
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Oooooh. I want a synchro golf! I wonder if it would be harder to stick a VW diesel in a subaru, or add a synchro system and a lift to my GTI?
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thanks for your kind words. :D
no big problem to install the RWD outlet from a syncro transmission to a FWD transmission :wink: but, your right. sadly it's not a syncro.
Swap the bellhousing and diff, install bevel box. Pain... but no biggie. There's a complete Syncro system sitting in my shop 8)
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So, is the Golf Country closer to a CrossGolf 4Motion, or a Beduin?
I'll take the brush guard, though. Around here, we call them "cattle pushers". Wonder how much protection it would give me from the f*#king deer that are all over the place - don't want them hurting my Jetta!
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Welcome - and thanks for introducing yourself. Awesome project!
Your description of "stosswellenkrümmer" sounds like it means "headers" in english. It's something I've been interested in experimenting with on our motors. I'd be interested to see how you make your headers and the turbocharger fit underneath a G60 intake manifold.
The peak pre-turbine exhaust gas temperature for a stock 1.6lTD is 1500 deg. F (815 deg. C) pre-turbine.
Keep us updated... :)
i definately will give you updates :)
i guess i will build it something like this: http://www.centralvwaudi.com/tdi/latestpics/big/16vturbo3.jpg
but reverse mounted to have enough space to fit long runner intake. what steel is normally used for those manifolds?
@LeeG
a country is completely different to a normal syncro :) and i really don't like that SUV style even if the chrome edition has white leather interior :shock:
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>Golf Country closer to a CrossGolf 4Motion, or a Beduin?
-dunno, these things are out of my price range.
I lust after a Iltis with a TDI swap.
Unless your deer are shorter than the ones 'round here, the bush guard / cattle guard wont make much difference. front bumper usually busts their legs and tosses em onto the hood/windshield, where the damage is done.
16V-Sauger: sorry to have jacked your thread.
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I'll take the brush guard, though. Around here, we call them "cattle pushers". Wonder how much protection it would give me from the f*#king deer that are all over the place - don't want them hurting my Jetta!
Probably not much. My dad hit a deer with a 1/2 ton ford truck going about 35mph, and a much beefier looking brush guard than that kept the radiator from being trashed, but it still took out a headlight and grill, and pushed the fender back a quarter inch so the door wouldn't open properly.
That being said, I'm welding up one for my rabbit. Every little bit will help.
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>Golf Country closer to a CrossGolf 4Motion, or a Beduin?
-dunno, these things are out of my price range.
I lust after a Iltis with a TDI swap.
Actually, the CrossGolf 4Motion is a Golf with a trim package that makes it look like a mini SUV (but it's really a car), and only available in Europe. The Beduin is a small SUV that is a combination of the B6 and A5 platforms, and is (as of yet) unreleased.
Come to think of it, I've answered my own question. It's closer to the CrossGolf.
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I can't see the pictures! :cry:
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i guess i will build it something like this: http://www.centralvwaudi.com/tdi/latestpics/big/16vturbo3.jpg
but reverse mounted to have enough space to fit long runner intake. what steel is normally used for those manifolds?
Usually I see stainless steel grade 304 or even grade 316 used for turbo headers. 400 series stainless and mild steel are cheaper options but supposedly will not last as long in this high-heat, pre-turbine application. Grade 316 stainless steel may not be necessary for a cooler running diesel application as it is on turbo gasser applications.
I think with a good deisgn and well-braced/supported turbocharger, you could get away with using tubing as thin as .065" wall thickness. Going to thicker tubing will add strength, with the side effect being increased weight.
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I can't see the pictures! :cry:
the server which is hosting my pictures is momentarily down :cry: should be up again in a few ours
@fsp
i will try to find out which company has some of that stuff for a good price
but .065" is just about 1.6mm?! :shock: isn't that a little bit thin?
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thats what i expect my valves to look like :twisted:
(http://www.directupload.net/images/060211/temp/C6QRK93x.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/605/C6QRK93x.jpg)
(http://www.directupload.net/images/060211/temp/TfjO8tmX.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/605/TfjO8tmX.jpg)
(http://www.directupload.net/images/060211/temp/sYWW6dwQ.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/605/sYWW6dwQ.jpg)
(http://www.directupload.net/images/060211/temp/ld38NW22.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/605/ld38NW22.jpg)
is it possible that the outlet valves aren't sodium-filled? even on a turbodiesel?
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is it possible that the outlet valves aren't sodium-filled? even on a turbodiesel?
I have cut up bent 1.9TD exhaust valves in every way possible hoping to find the tasty sodium filling, no joy. I'm not sure if its just a myth or if some are actually sodium filled. If they are out there, I haven't been able to find them...
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ok, that gives me a good feeling while grinding that valves so much down :twisted:
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(http://www.directupload.net/images/060211/temp/a2UJO236.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/605/a2UJO236.jpg)
polished rods from a RS2, rod bolts from a g60 (+25% diameter)
:D
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Those are puuuuurty!
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Those are puuuuurty!
my online-translator doesn't know the word purty :P
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(http://www.directupload.net/images/060211/temp/a2UJO236.jpg)
polished rods from a RS2, rod bolts from a g60 (+25% diameter)
Very nice :)
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Those are puuuuurty!
my online-translator doesn't know the word purty :P
Purty is slang for pretty.
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Those are puuuuurty!
my online-translator doesn't know the word purty :P
Purty is slang for pretty.
aaah :D that sounds translatable even without an online-translator :lol:
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How are you planning on achieving 1.8 litres? Those rods wrist pin holes are too small for diesel pistons.
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indeed, i got a set of flat 81mm pistons.
when they are here, i'll post some pics ;)
i hope the block is able to handle 81mm pistons :?
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The block should take 81 pistons, its the copmpressiont he block might no take. I hope you got 81mm FORGED pistons... I am very intersted in how this turns out, props to you for pioneering :twisted:
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hmpf, no one else did that before? :shock: omg :lol:
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I've never heard of anyone trying it.
I am glad youa re so I can know for sure though :D
The reason I have never tried is because I don;t think gasser rods or pistons or crank or block would last very long at all. Especially if you tried to put any power though it. I would love for someone to prove the wrong though get to it man :twisted:
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i definately will :lol:
every high-stressed engine has long rods, best way would be to use 159mm rods. but i have no tall-block. :oops:
stock rods from a rs2 were able to handle 90PS per rod. even if its not the same if they were used in a 1.8L 16VT with 360PS i think that stuff sould easily handle ~120hp. thats what i would like to reach, with many torque :twisted:
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Man, I know u'r car! From the Internet. I even hav those 2 last pics saved on my disk for almost a year now!! :lol: :lol: funny..
Crazy project u got in hands!! :twisted: Good luck
About the interiors, could u please tell me wot's all those buttons?? The "SSA" and the "CHECK" ones! Also the two "freeze" buttons on the left! (I wonder.. :roll: )
Is the MFA and Cruise-control working?? How did do u do that??
The only thing I don't like is the steering wheel. I prefer the stock ones much better (especially with leather!). :)
U hav one of the best Golf II turbodiesel I'v ever seen!! :P Congrats!
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thanks man :D
that mfa mod was one of the trickiest things i've ever done. it was about ten hours of soldering very tiny cables to even more tiny connection points. at the end it looked like this: :lol:
(http://www.directupload.net/images/060213/temp/9zRJEmmr.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/607/9zRJEmmr.jpg)
(http://www.directupload.net/images/060213/temp/IO9UO6YA.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/607/IO9UO6YA.jpg)
that freeze button was used to manually turn the A/C on and off. that was a time when i did not know that in the US there is a special switch just for that use, even it has a german partnumber it can NOT be ordered in germany :evil: :oops: . it took me around one year to get such a switch and finally i got it :D
that SSA unit is something really special. its the only car i have found with that unit, even it is was not delivered with that thing. it was used short time to reduce the emissions and the fuel consumption of a car by turning the engine off, e.g. while staying at a red traffic light or something. to start the engine again you only have to put the "gear-level" into first gear position and the engine will start automatically. very interesting while cruising in cities.
that check-switch is again from US, but can be ordered even in germany, it was normally used in GTI's to give a hint when the engine respectively the O2 sensor gets bad. i now use it to check the failure-storage from the ABS.
mfa and cruise-control ARE working fine :D i just have to re-wire the seat-heating and the SSA needs some time to get completely together.
that pictures are very old, the car has now red/white US-taillights, white US-sidemarkers in the fender and the 1985 square US-headlights
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so i think its time for some measurements and comparison :)
i'll compare the diesel stuff to the G60, because they have the same rod-lenght...
Diesel:
rod 713gr
wrist pin 169gr
piston 454gr
thinnest part at the piston 9,6mm
G60:
rod 694gr
wrist pin 130gr
piston 396gr
thinnest part at the piston 8mm
parts i will use:
rod 660gr
wrist pin 99gr
pistons (aren't available at the moment)
so that dieselstuff is really heavy, i wouldn't like to rev that past 6000.
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i'm actually siting in front of the diesel head and i'm debating with myself if to use the stock cam or one of these 10.8mm lift gti cams...
so, maybe someone can help me out:
is a gti cam worth it? i have it, the only thing to do is to make a mountable pulley :oops: and thats what i really don't like very much
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that freeze button was used to manually turn the A/C on and off.
u can't turn the A/C off without that switch??!! :shock: I'm a bit confused! :?
that SSA unit is something really special. its the only car i have found with that unit, even it is was not delivered with that thing. it was used short time to reduce the emissions and the fuel consumption of a car by turning the engine off, e.g. while staying at a red traffic light or something. to start the engine again you only have to put the "gear-level" into first gear position and the engine will start automatically. very interesting while cruising in cities.
That's awsome!! :P That's originally from the Diesel Strom Concept. I'v read about it. :)
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that freeze button was used to manually turn the A/C on and off.
u can't turn the A/C off without that switch??!! :shock: I'm a bit confused! :?
normally you turn the A/C on and off when pushing that lever above the temperatur-selection, right? i used to drive with that lever in right position and thats when the A/C ist turned on automatically. so i put that switch into the electrical curcuit and know i can switch ich on and off when i want :D
also i have another update while the pistons are on there way... i hope you like it :D
(http://www.directupload.net/images/060213/temp/H2svgnWV.jpg) (http://www.directupload.net/show/d/607/H2svgnWV.jpg)
i definately do :twisted:
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that pictures are very old, the car has now red/white US-taillights, white US-sidemarkers in the fender and the 1985 square US-headlights
this is funny. over here across the pond we spend a lot of our time modifying our VWs to look European (many people change the square US headlights in their rabbits and golfs for the round european type). And meanwhile there you are modifying a perfectly European looking Golf to look like a US golf!
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by now you can see many cars from the netherlands, germany, belgium... with your US-stuff :)
and i also heard that many us cars were modded to european style :D
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That's very normal. Because people usually like to have their cars exclusive and original, they will try to find rare parts for their vehicule. Therefore, NA-style in Europe and Euro-style in NA.
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Can you repeat photos with MFA, becuse they aren't working now? I want install MFA in my car but i can't find any informations. Please