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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: DieselBalz on June 04, 2011, 07:18:39 am
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One of the injectors is leaky. Do I just replace the one, or do em all? Also, if I get a new injector, do I have to have it pop tested or can you install it right out of the box?
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You mean it leaks into the cylinder, or into the ground?
If its leaking into the cylinder, how do you know it?
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Its leaking outside of the injector.As you look down at it diesel collects in the little ridge where the upper body screws into the lower body, and around the injector on the block. Not alot, but its there.
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Its leaking outside of the injector.As you look down at it diesel collects in the little ridge where the upper body screws into the lower body, and around the injector on the block. Not alot, but its there.
I had one leaking about 3 weeks ago. Check the jumper lines, mine was the rubber cap on the end. Replaced that with a vacumn cap and leak stopped.
It looked the same as you decribed, gathering between the upper and lower injection body, then running down the head and block.
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The rubber lines are the most common spot for them to leak for sure...
They can also leak from the fitting where the high pressure line attaches, or they can seep between the two halves of the injector body. But if the lines haven't been off recently, and the injectors haven't been touched in a long time then it's almost always going to be the rubber lines.
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Yeah I wouldn't buy new objectors. Just get crazy/creative with the blue r t v and it'll fix it.
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The rubber lines are the most common spot for them to leak for sure...
They can also leak from the fitting where the high pressure line attaches, or they can seep between the two halves of the injector body. But if the lines haven't been off recently, and the injectors haven't been touched in a long time then it's almost always going to be the rubber lines.
Spot on...
Cures for the rubber lines is to make them a little long when replacing, then when the ends harden, and one end or both leak, 8 to 10mm can be snipped off. Yhis saves at least half of your line consumption.
Cure for the high pressure line, is to take the line out, and using a spare injector, hand tighten line onto injector and rotate a couple of times. Prior to doing this take an eyepiece and look at the 'muffin' effect created by graunching up the nut on the line repeatedly. Relook after following my proceedure and then check by
painting the muffin with an indelible felt tip. Red's a good one to see. 8) If there is not a seal all round revealed bythe disappearance of the ink, then the 'graunch' ridge needs gentle filing away.
Applying finger pressure to line to hold it correctly in place on the top of the injector as you spin the nut on helps when replacing the lines.
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It was the rubber line. I just replaced all of them a few months ago, but I let the engine warm up and than held the throttle at some decent load, and could see it seeping ever so slowly outta the line where the rubber meets the metal. So I am gonna cut it and stick it back down on there as I did go a little long on the replacement just in case.
Its not alot but it annoys me. Just happy its not the injector itself.
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It was the rubber line. I just replaced all of them a few months ago, but I let the engine warm up and than held the throttle at some decent load, and could see it seeping ever so slowly outta the line where the rubber meets the metal. So I am gonna cut it and stick it back down on there as I did go a little long on the replacement just in case.
Its not alot but it annoys me. Just happy its not the injector itself.
whenever i get a VW diesel, i take the stock return lines off the injectors, and i use toyota vacuum line for the return lines. after upgrading, i never get the leaks returning..