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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: adi on April 02, 2011, 09:25:28 am
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Where exactly do I need to fit one of these? I hear I have to cut a metal wastegate pipe (which is strange, normally it would tee stright into a vacuum hose between the turbo and intake manifold), if so, anyone got a picture of theirs fitted so I know exactly where it wants to go? Also when I fit a boost guage, which side of the boost controller do I want to be tee'ing that off to?
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you want boost pressure into one side of the boost controller, and plumb the other side of the boost controller to the wastegate, where it gets its signal from the intake manifold.
do you have a K24? i believe those are the only turbos with metal wastegate lines..
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Let me lay it out for you:
You probably have a K14. If you have a K24, it's the same deal. You have to undo the banjo bolts that hold the metal wastegate line, and saw off the line so that there's about 5 cm on each side. Then you fit rubber vacuum hose over, and you fit your manual boost controller in the middle.
The boost gauge gets the signal from the pressure hose that goes to the LDA. Just tee off there and feed the line inside. I cut out the 12V in the console and fitted mine there; nice and "stock" and the needle is very stable too at idle.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x117/norwegianprep92/IMG_0152.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x117/norwegianprep92/IMG_0151.jpg)
As you can see I used fuel hose, and it leaked air like crazy, so I went over to a smaller vacuum line. Keep the boost at about 1 bar. If you want more, you'll need a 1.9 HG and stronger head bolts. :)
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Let me lay it out for you:
You probably have a K14. If you have a K24, it's the same deal. You have to undo the banjo bolts that hold the metal wastegate line, and saw off the line so that there's about 5 cm on each side. Then you fit rubber vacuum hose over, and you fit your manual boost controller in the middle.
The boost gauge gets the signal from the pressure hose that goes to the LDA. Just tee off there and feed the line inside. I cut out the 12V in the console and fitted mine there; nice and "stock" and the needle is very stable too at idle.
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x117/norwegianprep92/IMG_0152.jpg)
(http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x117/norwegianprep92/IMG_0151.jpg)
As you can see I used fuel hose, and it leaked air like crazy, so I went over to a smaller vacuum line. Keep the boost at about 1 bar. If you want more, you'll need a 1.9 HG and stronger head bolts. :)
i would run it off the intake manifold bost signal if you were intercooled.. because there will be less boost after the intercooler..
so, say you set the controller to 15 psi, well when the turbo outlet sees 15 psi, the wastegate opens. but that may not be 15 psi in the intake manifold.. may be as little as 10 or 12 psi..
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So my boost gauge is reading a little under 1 bar, and my engine is getting like 1.2 bar? I'm intercooled as well.
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So my boost gauge is reading a little under 1 bar, and my engine is getting like 1.2 bar? I'm intercooled as well.
wheres the gauge read from?
my boost gauge reads from the intake plenum, so i know whats going into my engine.. (pressure at the manifold is what your engine is receiving from the turbo)
im saying that in a less than perfect world, the boost at the outlet of the turbo can be slightly more than the actual boost in the intake manifold. there could be pressure drop from intercoolers, less than perfect boost piping, anything really..
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Thanks for that picture of the MBC location, very helpful :)
I could take a feed for the boost guage from the hose to the LDA (although I don't think mine has the LDA, it has a smoke screw on top of the pump), but are you saying it will be reading wrongly? Mine is also intercooled.
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Thanks for that picture of the MBC location, very helpful :)
I could take a feed for the boost guage from the hose to the LDA (although I don't think mine has the LDA, it has a smoke screw on top of the pump), but are you saying it will be reading wrongly? Mine is also intercooled.
not necessarily wrong, but depending from where you get the boost signal, it will affect it.
i would take a boost signal from somewhere AFTER the intercooler, then it will be the most accurate.. theres really no wrong way to do it, i just think that its a better reading after the cooler..
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My boost gauge reads from after the IC. So I've done it correctly then! Hooray :D
Adi, you're gonna be blown away by the extra boost!
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Question, so using the boost ref. from the turbo to the top of the LDA instead of at the manifold when intercooled could result in fuel inrichment sooner?
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So I up it to 1bar and then enjoy more smiles per gallon? ;D
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Then, 1.5 bar must be like ;D + :) smiles per gallon. Right ??
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If I fit a larger front mounted intercooler, is it safe to run 1.5 bar on a K14?
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Its efficiency range is 1-1.2 bar. After that it just blows hot air.. Plus your head gasket isn't made to last at 1.5 bar. ;)
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1.2 bar it is then, what sort of BHP will that make?
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At around 1.2 bar with fueling and boost pin, you're looking at around 110 hp at the wheels and around 200nm - ish.
There is this guy here in Norway who started out with an eco-diesel, he turned it up to 1.1bar, turned up the fuel and mounted an IC over the transmission. He started out with 60hp at the crank and 110nm, and it came out with 91hp at the crank and 182nm. This is with the eco pump too! It doesn't have the LDA.
So there is plenty of potential :)
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I currently have the IC over the gearbox too. So I should expect around 120-130bhp at the flywheel then? That would be awesome!
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No you're not looking at 120hp at the flywheel. 120hp at the real wheels, the ones that put it down ;) That's with minor adjustment with the pump and boost.
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Or front wheels in my golf's case :D
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You got it, bud! :D
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I appreciate the clear picture of the boost controller install on our little K14! Thanks! What did you use to cut the line?
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Anyone got any pics of where they've tee'd the boost guage vacuum pipe into? I've just bought one and I'm too lazy to search for the ideal spot :D
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Question, so using the boost ref. from the turbo to the top of the LDA instead of at the manifold when intercooled could result in fuel inrichment sooner?
if you reference boost from the turbo, it will kick the LDA in sooner..
if you reference boost from the manifold, then it will kick in later.. because of pressure drop and such..
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I appreciate the clear picture of the boost controller install on our little K14! Thanks! What did you use to cut the line?
I used a hacksaw to cut through the metal line. That way, you get a clean cut and no restriction as you might get from using a pair of cutting pliers. :)
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I appreciate the clear picture of the boost controller install on our little K14! Thanks! What did you use to cut the line?
I used a hacksaw to cut through the metal line. That way, you get a clean cut and no restriction as you might get from using a pair of cutting pliers. :)
i would just use a tubing cutter, if theres a straight enough section..
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Anyone got any pics of where they've tee'd the boost guage vacuum pipe into? I've just bought one and I'm too lazy to search for the ideal spot :D
I tee'd into the LDA rubber line. However, as R.O.R-2.0 is saying, teeing into the wastegate will yield a more accurate reading for the efficiency of the turbo. I'm gonna be doing that :D
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Anyone got any pics of where they've tee'd the boost guage vacuum pipe into? I've just bought one and I'm too lazy to search for the ideal spot :D
I tee'd into the LDA rubber line. However, as R.O.R-2.0 is saying, teeing into the wastegate will yield a more accurate reading for the efficiency of the turbo. I'm gonna be doing that :D
no dude, you got it wrong, you want to take a boost signal from as close to the intake port as possible.
if you use the wastegate signal, and your wastegate is set at say 15 psi (~1bar), then 15 psi at the turbo outlet may not be 15 psi at the intake ports.
i want my engine to see 15psi manifold pressure, not 15 psi turbo pressure. manifold pressure is almost lower than turbo outlet pressure, from restrictions in the piping, and hard turns..
i would hook it up backwards of how VW did it, i would hook the wastegate up to the intake manifold, and the LDA up to the turbo..
then the LDA will be reading slightly more pressure, and activate sooner.. while the boost gauge will be reading actual manifold pressure..
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Anyone got any pics of where they've tee'd the boost guage vacuum pipe into? I've just bought one and I'm too lazy to search for the ideal spot :D
I tee'd into the LDA rubber line. However, as R.O.R-2.0 is saying, teeing into the wastegate will yield a more accurate reading for the efficiency of the turbo. I'm gonna be doing that :D
no dude, you got it wrong, you want to take a boost signal from as close to the intake port as possible.
if you use the wastegate signal, and your wastegate is set at say 15 psi (~1bar), then 15 psi at the turbo outlet may not be 15 psi at the intake ports.
i want my engine to see 15psi manifold pressure, not 15 psi turbo pressure. manifold pressure is almost lower than turbo outlet pressure, from restrictions in the piping, and hard turns..
i would hook it up backwards of how VW did it, i would hook the wastegate up to the intake manifold, and the LDA up to the turbo..
then the LDA will be reading slightly more pressure, and activate sooner.. while the boost gauge will be reading actual manifold pressure..
D'oh! :-[
That makes total sense now. I'm gonna be doing that for sure! So, manifold -- wastegate and turbo -- LDA?
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kinda up in the air tho, thats just how i would hook it up..
ive never done it that way, because i dont run a wastegate, or an LDA.. lol.
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I'm gonna try that for sure anyhow. I'm ordering a new MBC which can be adjusted from inside the cabin and then I'll give it a go :D