VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: dodger21 on February 28, 2011, 05:28:11 pm
-
I have been lurking for awhile and have asked a few questions. I have been thinking about what it is I want to build this car for. Well, recently (as we all have seen) gas and diesel have jumped over a country who supplies less than 5% of our oil consumption. I am sitting back chuckling to myself as some guys are complaining over filling there oversized SUV's for their family. Family meaning guy+girl+1 CHILD= Need for a rather large vehicle. Complaining how it takes $70 to fill up for them to get to work each week. Yada, yada, yada, poop.
So, Project MMPG (Maximum Miles Per Gallon) starts now. What I have is a 85 VW 2dr Golf with a 1.6L NA diesel coupled to a 5spd transmission, ACH code. A good start but needs more. Currently done to it:
Larger than stock tires :laugh:
I get 35mpg around town and 52 on the highway because of said tires. I am wanting something more uniform.
Here are the plans to the car:
13" Steel to replace the 14" aluminum with smaller tires (Less rotating weight. Know of any mileage savers? Donuts maybe ::) :D)
Lowering a inch or 2 (less under car turbulence)
Custom front and rear roll pan/valence (Help direct air flow)
Lose additional weight from the interior (Back seat is not even remotely used, yet. Keeping a spare and less tools)
Front/rear spacers to get rid of the tuck (Make the wheels flush with fenders for less turbulence)
Windshield high pressure area vented down and around car (Have ideas...)
Engine mods are:
Fresh head with a P&P
Custom intake POST filter
Custom intake PRE filter
Larger exhaust
Rebuilt injection pump
Rebuilt stock injectors
Timing advance bump
Inline electric lift pump
Regasket to rid of any leaks
All oils will be replaced by synthetic fluids. Everything will be grease and aligned. Tires might be hyper-inflated to seek out best MPG at times. Not all the time, just after I get a good baseline.
Will post up results and builds.
Peace
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110224145210.jpg)
-
I'll be watching!
Do you know the gear ratios on that transmission? I'm putting a 5M (0.600 5th gear) in my TD Fox purely for MPG.
I assume you've already deleted A/C, power steering and considered un-belting the alternator?
-
I do not have power steering or A/C ;D
I actually need the alternator to work. The lift/pusher pump I will be installing needs 12v power. Might look into a magnetically clutched thing to only cycle when juice gets below 10v. Solar panel anyone?
I didn't know there was a taller 5th gear... I may put that in my AOP tranny so I have basically 2 OD, 1 at .91 and the other at .6
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/VW_020_transmission.shtml
I notice almost all thing being equal, they say the AOP gets 10mph more in 5th than the ACH but they have the same final drive/5th gear ratios....
-
http://www.scirocco.org/gears/
All the gear ratio information you could ever want. I found another site that actually listed speedo gear colors and what transmissions were compatible with what gears, but I can't find the link to it.
The ACH / AGS is what I'm looking for to replace my crappy AWY. I think its a major contributing factor to my exceedingly crappy highway mileage ;)
-
Ah here it is. Found it. :)
http://www.a2resource.com/eandt/ratios.html
-
Neato.
Check out the Ecomodder forums (http://ecomodder.com)
Some cool stuff going on there. Including this... (http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/topgear-com-america-high-mpg-project-regeared-aeromodded-7176.html)
-
They are talking on that top gear forum about 70mpg being crazy....
umm... a stock tdi polo has gotten over 94mpg UN MODIFIED...
they are rated at like 70mpg.
as for your build. get some 13 inch tires on there, a front spoiler, lower it 2 in. you are on the right track!
If you turbo it and use an td pump you can get better mileage because the fueling is based more on boost readings and therefore is more precise. It's not just a flat line increasing like a std pump. This also allows you to turn the fuel way down.
In my caddy I made it from athens ohio, to chicago, to wisconsin, back to chicago on one tank of fuel (including creeping through chicago rush hour). 50mpg.. oh yeah, loaded down with about 1500lbs, and the gf, and bags for the weekend. 740miles is my record for a tank, but after the gov mod I have made about 5mpg better. (and driving it harder). It lowered egts on the highway too. 60mph=575egt.
I think that unloaded, at 55mph, 45psi in tires I could break 60mpg. in a pickup truck :P
I think it says so much about america that vw said here is a comfy truck, with a real truck payload, with the maintenance of a car, that got 50mpg, made great heat, it's cheap and easy to maintain, oh, and it lasts like 40+years if you take care of it: and the Public said :NO THANKS. What a bunch of douches.
-
In my caddy I made it from athens ohio, to chicago, to wisconsin, back to chicago on one tank of fuel (including creeping through chicago rush hour). 50mpg.. oh yeah, loaded down with about 1500lbs, and the gf, and bags for the weekend.
What the hell kind of suspension are you running under the back of this thing? And what about brakes?
I've done a lot of hauling in my caddy over the last year and basically 1180lbs + me (140lbs) and it was absolutely on the bumpstops and completely unsafe as far as stopping distance was concerned.
OP, don't forget wheel bearings. Also I'd look for weight in a wheel/tire combo and not worry about diameter. Kosei K1's are really light and can be found fairly inexpensively but I don't think I've seen them narrower than 7". The Compomotive CXR 1355 on top of the page is only 4kg in 13x5.5" that's not bad!
-
Im just looking through this and thought it seems like a massive amount of mechanical work to achieve probably alot less gain than looking at the areo dynamics.
I mean something that I do have to remember is a US gallon(3.78l) is less than a british gallon(4.5l) so 50mpg is actually a higher mpg on my side of the pond!
ok that aside the thing thats using fuel is wind resistance, vw have spent years amking their cars heavier and at the same time keeping mpg stats about the same despite the weight increase, if you were to get the 1.4tdi polo motor in something that weighs as much as a mk1 golf you'd probably get 80-90mpg all the time.
I do think messing about with wheels and tyres to much may lead to no much more than hard work rather than extra economy compared to sitting down and looking at the aerodynamics. If you gear it up too much it will put more strain in the engine and just use more fuel, rather than less, which is counter productive.
So to start with, lightening what you can of the vehicle will help, its what they do with race cars to get better 1/4 mile times so obviously weight is an enemy. Look at replacing steel/cast parts with aluminium components where possible. Carbon Fibre interior panels or thin aluminium sheets? Look at panel gaps, making sure all your panels fit the best they can to minimise disturbance in the airflow.
I think you might have to weigh your wheels to see if there is actually a massive advantage or not to changing them, because if the wheels get smaller and tyres get bigger chances are you may not save anything in weight.
Engine wise I would say probably put a really low pressure turbo on of 4-7psi to make the engine just a bit more efficient as opposed to the normal 9-20psi diesels seem to run at, intercool it to improve futher. With the inlet you want to keep the stock idea in mind of having a system that works to draw the right temperature air in to get the best from the engine.
I think probably your biggest gains will be looking to see what you can do in the way of aerodynamic improvement, these articles may be of interest/use:
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2159/article.html (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2159/article.html)
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2160/article.html (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2160/article.html)
http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2162/article.html (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2162/article.html)
Might help you with your quest a little, when it mentions about undertrays, you might be able to get one from something like a mk3 golf/jetta diesel, hopefully food for thought anyway :)
Thats my 2 cents worth :)
-
Bugsy, interesting for getting air to flow through critical parts of the car. I wonder how those would affect fuel economy.
Maybe if he tried to achieve increased airflow characteristics throughout the entire engine bay? So that the air in had an exit out. Maybe it doesn't matter for fuel economy, but only for engine performance (i.e. getting more power out of the engine).
I would conclude that get your radiator enough flow to keep the engine cool, but frontal cross section and air flow AROUND the car would be the most critical in achieving that increase in mileage.
-
15 X 6 OR 14 X6 LE CASLETS are the lightest wheel
Forged alloy , not cast
Lowered two with a kamei air dam sounds good
3.32 R & P with a .71 with a TD would b the best
radiator with good sealing is better flow, my 675 mm wide prevents most air from blowing to the side and I make a P seal for the top of the radiatot for better flow
need some, let me know
GB
-
Bugsy, interesting for getting air to flow through critical parts of the car. I wonder how those would affect fuel economy.
Maybe if he tried to achieve increased airflow characteristics throughout the entire engine bay? So that the air in had an exit out. Maybe it doesn't matter for fuel economy, but only for engine performance (i.e. getting more power out of the engine).
I would conclude that get your radiator enough flow to keep the engine cool, but frontal cross section and air flow AROUND the car would be the most critical in achieving that increase in mileage.
Well I think the article brings up some interesting points about how subtle changes to aerodynamics can make a big difference to the way something works so it maybe that for example where vents are cut in the bonnet behind the radiator in a low pressure zone means you can make the system more efficent to the point where you can start sealing some of the bottom of the engine bay.
Or say working out where the pressure area of the bonnet starts to rise nearing the windscreen, then you could maybe mount a very small deflector accross the bonnet to change the direction of airflow so it hits the windscreen further up and causes less pressure.
Change the shape of your mirrors for more bulleted ones, that sort of thing.
All things to be considered :)
on the new polo bluemotion vw changed the grill design to help air flow over the car so not much went into the engine bay like a big scoop, instead they opted to use air from a lower part of the car (under the bumpers middle) where aero dynamic gains were harder to achieve because of the general shape of the car. It maybe because of the shape of the old golf grills and under the bumper area with it curving under the body that you take the opposite idea with reverse naca ducts in the bonnet to draw air out without disturbing aerodynamics to much on top, meaning you can panel out the lower area to make air flow under the car better.
I'm sure theres tons that can be done :) interested to see what you achieve!
-
Thanks Bugsy! I will be reading it up!
Also, I need to change a brake cylinder as it is leaking... :o ::) :-\
-
Good points Bugsy. I like the way you are thinking.
-
Ive read alot of opinions on making more flow through your radiator, personally i think you will lose fuel economy if you try and make the engine run cooler. Cooler intake air will increase flow because of a denser charge thus increasing power. But cooling the engine water temperature will probably provide a more incomplete burn. From my understanding these engines are built to run at 195. And to try and run it cooler than that would be counter productive.
-
Ive read alot of opinions on making more flow through your radiator, personally i think you will lose fuel economy if you try and make the engine run cooler. Cooler intake air will increase flow because of a denser charge thus increasing power. But cooling the engine water temperature will probably provide a more incomplete burn. From my understanding these engines are built to run at 195. And to try and run it cooler than that would be counter productive.
I agree to an extent.
If you increase airflow only through the radiator; you still have a thermostat that begins to open at or around (very close to) 195, you won't lose much economy because the engine will stay at optimal temperature.
If you increase airflow throughout the ENTIRE engine bay. Thus increasing the airflow in direct contact with the engine then you are cooling it more than what it should need.
With that bit of information and the articles Bugsy provided are a good start to figuring out increased fuel economy.
To add a bit more, if you can redirect airflow that usually strikes the front cross section of the car you can really reduce the amount of drag. Imagine if you can create an air 'bubble,' a pressurized area someplace around the car to create a more aerodynamic shape, this would increase fuel economy. Pickup trucks actually get better mileage with the tailgate up than down. This is because a pressurized air zone is created and allows air to flow down to the back of the truck with less resistance. I believe Mythbusters did an episode on it. Also why would engineers that get paid a lot of money otherlook something so simple?
-
Heat is energy, if you have a radiator throwing away a bunch of heat, you are throwing away a bunch of energy.
-
Heat is energy, if you have a radiator throwing away a bunch of heat, you are throwing away a bunch of energy.
Welcome to the inefficiencies of internal combustion engines...
The most efficient engines are diesels. At about 30% efficient.
The radiator should not be "throwing away" heat unnecessarily. This unnecessary waste would only happen if the thermostat is not working properly.
-
I was thinking on one thing. If you switched from an old brass/copper radiator to the newer aluminum ones you can decrease the amount of air that needs to flow through the same size radiator.
Aluminum is a better thermal conductor than brass/copper.
With that the same cooling capacity from a smaller aluminum radiator or same size radiator with reduced airflow.
-
i think what i was getting at with the radiator thing was not about making the engine run cooler, as you want it runnign at around 90c for its optimum temp. What I was trying to get at is that really what you have at the front of the older golfs is the equivilant to a bit open mouth creating massive drag!
So what you do is look at the fact with I know at least on the mk3 golf you have an area below the centre of bumper and the grill itself, if you were to seal the radiator grill with a flat slab that effectively increased aerodynamics as the air that would now flow round the car rather than create a sort of drag by going through the engine bay, the engine would probably run a bit hot with just under bumper cooling area. however if you were to make engine bay ventilation more efficient by venting hot air via something like a naca duct into the airstream in an area of low pressure on the bonnet, would make the radiator work how it should do again, but the principle being drag reduction.
what I was thinking is with the mk1/2 golfs most of under the bumper seems to slope under the car, so if you were to make sure all holes below mid bumper were sealed, then seal the underside of the engine bay using one of the guards off a mk3 golf for instance you would then need to ensure the engine bay was getting enough flow through using just the main grill which cant be made massively more efficient I dont think, my maybe utilising vents in lower pressure zones.
in theory the research into aerodynamics, you kinda need to look at aircraft as obviously they have to be as slippery as possible with minimum drag, then have a look at modern 'eco' cars like the prius, polo/golf bluemotion and compare them to the same version that arent eco models to see where the changes have been made and then see if you can work out how to apply to what your running.
There are also positive/negative effects you have to look at too. For example I already mentioned about the cooling/front area of the car, but theres more! if you were to run Moondiscs and steel wheels you would minimise disturbance of air from wheel rotation, at the cost of brake cooling, leading to brake overheat. however there is the element of compromise, if you look for some eco vehicle hubcaps and see what they run, try and acquire some yourself. say like a seat ibiza tdi ecomotive (do you get those in the us/canada?) it has hubcap/steels with 175/65 R14 (i think) and the hubcaps actually reduce drag but arent smooth, however the vw polo bluemotion has alloys and does about 1mpg less or something.
so there is a fair amount of things to look at/pinch ideas from things that are already running rather than reinventing the wheel :)
-
Time for some 80's Moon disk hubcaps 8)
-
Yeah, they are sweet ;D
-
Time for some 80's Moon disk hubcaps 8)
A buddy of mine had an old 60's Econoline (Rape Me) van with those... I loved popping them off and putting stones in them when he wasn't looking.. ;D
AS far as aerodynamics, I wonder if there would be something out there that you could modify the nose from to smooth things up, kinda like the ole Super Birds.. They pulled all the air for cooling from underneath that thing.. The third Gen F-cars (Camaro/Firebird) did about the same thing.. Might look a bit odd on a Golf, but would help accomplish your goal..
-
clipper kit def helps aerodynamics
-
Indeed.. It's just that big gaping mouth of a grill that's a killer...
-
Ill be watching im in the same boat.
-
Yeah, I was making a trip to Canada in my MK1 recently, and I would check oil level/add oil every time I stopped. I noticed the salt buildup on the entire front of the engine.. The ENGINE. I thought how the hell is it getting that much airflow and the contributors of this thread helped me realize that it is coming from underneath the car. I also concluded that this may be causing the engine to take a long time to heat up in the winter... So, I will definitely be adding some aero kit to the list of to-do's. Most likely the clipper kit (cabby body kit)
-
Yeah, I was making a trip to Canada in my MK1 recently, and I would check oil level/add oil every time I stopped. I noticed the salt buildup on the entire front of the engine.. The ENGINE. I thought how the hell is it getting that much airflow and the contributors of this thread helped me realize that it is coming from underneath the car. I also concluded that this may be causing the engine to take a long time to heat up in the winter... So, I will definitely be adding some aero kit to the list of to-do's. Most likely the clipper kit (cabby body kit)
Wouldnt it be coming through the radiator?
-
Yeah, I was making a trip to Canada in my MK1 recently, and I would check oil level/add oil every time I stopped. I noticed the salt buildup on the entire front of the engine.. The ENGINE. I thought how the hell is it getting that much airflow and the contributors of this thread helped me realize that it is coming from underneath the car. I also concluded that this may be causing the engine to take a long time to heat up in the winter... So, I will definitely be adding some aero kit to the list of to-do's. Most likely the clipper kit (cabby body kit)
Wouldnt it be coming through the radiator?
Either way it comes in, the entire front of my engine is covered in salt spray. This would lead me to believe the majority is coming up from the bottom rather than through the radiator.
Water flows damn near the same as how air flows around stuff.
This picture may clear up where the radiator is located in relation to the lip on the bottom of the car.
(http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4826/compilation1.jpg)
-
Yeah, I was making a trip to Canada in my MK1 recently, and I would check oil level/add oil every time I stopped. I noticed the salt buildup on the entire front of the engine.. The ENGINE. I thought how the hell is it getting that much airflow and the contributors of this thread helped me realize that it is coming from underneath the car. I also concluded that this may be causing the engine to take a long time to heat up in the winter... So, I will definitely be adding some aero kit to the list of to-do's. Most likely the clipper kit (cabby body kit)
Wouldnt it be coming through the radiator?
(http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4826/compilation1.jpg)
wow.. a self adjusting clutch cable on a mk1..
thats almost as bad as using ford parts on a chevy..
-
Thats what the PO put on it, I had no idea. please forgive me ::)
-
Where's your battery???
I've always felt that a fair amount of crap blew up into the engine bay though the front of the wheel wells..
-
battery is in trunk, another change the PO made to the car.
-
OKay.. I have the same thing going on.. After I moved it I noticed a lot more crap in the engine bay.. Look down behind the headlight, you should see the hole I'm referring too..
I have an '84 here with plastic liners in the wheel wells I've been planning to swap over to my car, and hopefully help that... I also have plans for an under engine cover.. Not so much to reduce drag, but to keep the alternator from taking a bath...
-
OKay.. I have the same thing going on.. After I moved it I noticed a lot more crap in the engine bay.. Look down behind the headlight, you should see the hole I'm referring too..
I have an '84 here with plastic liners in the wheel wells I've been planning to swap over to my car, and hopefully help that... I also have plans for an under engine cover.. Not so much to reduce drag, but to keep the alternator from taking a bath...
Very good point. I should look into that as well. If you get the liners on your car please share the result.
-
looking at the pics though you can see what I mean about taking advantage of the flowing under bodywork, if you were to make the bottom of the car as flat as possible would help. apparently this is why beetle floorpans generally stay pretty clean is due to the amount of flat area under the car.
Something I have noticed under my new mk6 tdi is that they actually fitted flat plastic plates over the floor pan to hide all the gubbins like fuel lines and that and make the bottom of the car as smooth as possible!
Judging by the pictures of clippers on the internet I cant see how adding a clipper kit is going to improve aerodynamics. For a start its going to add weight as its bigger than stock bumpers. for a Second thing its square and boxy where as the stock front bodywork already nicely curves under, I would think the clipper kit actually increases drag.
In my view this is how serious it can be is thinking about how smooth surfaces are, door gaps, things that stick out from the body. I guess I am eager to add good advice on this project as I too want to build something similar (a 1600NA D with a turbo, but NA pump) in a mk3 golf which has slightly better aero dynamics to start with, what I have found is over the years my mpg has gone down through a few things, how I drive and the mods I did for looks on the mk3, like a deeper chin spoiler, hella quadlamps which have less aerodynamics and general stuff like that. Luckily the radiator area of a mk3 is much better designed than the mk1/2 and its fairly well sealed!
-
Maybe the clipper kit improves aerodynamics because of how it redirects air around the fenders/wheels and provides better surface up front to attach a skid plate sort of stuff ???
I am not quite sure why. I did notice that Top Gear used the front bumper (I believe) just filled in some holes.
I can't see to find the original top gear article because their website changed, but here are articles on different websites.
http://green.autoblog.com/2009/03/05/top-gear-americas-project-sipster-adds-2003-tdi-engine-to-1981/
http://www.egmcartech.com/2009/03/27/topgearcoms-project-sipster-hits-84-mpg-with-1981-vw-rabbit-for-under-7000/
Also check out http://www.ecomodder.com
This guys claimed 95mpg honda civic
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerocivic-how-drop-your-cd-0-31-0-a-290.html#post2110
Another eco civic. This guy made his look much better.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/5th-generation-civic-hatchback-improving-aerodynamics-312.html
-
I am going to go out on a limb here and say the possible reason why the clipper kit is used to increase aerodynamics is because the front drops down low enough to redirect air instead of it hitting suspension components (control arms) and wheels. By adding a belly pan through the entire length (or as much as you can) of the vehicle that would greatly increase air flow and thus reduce drag underneath the vehicle and a front "air dam" wouldn't be as necessary.
Poster "AndrewJ" said, "So the big idea behind airdams is that they will improve your aerodynamics IF you can improve your Cd without adding to much A. If you tip the balance the other direction, by adding a lot of frontal area without streamlining the shape much then you will actually be hurting your aerodynamics. "
Cd = coefficient of drag
A = Area
Poster "basjoos" said, "In my opinion, an airdam is just a band-aid to use if you have a aerodynamically dirty underside you want to divert air away from. In a max FE application, we're not overly concerned about generating added downforce, which is the other main purpose of an air dam. On my car, I have a totally smooth underside and the only "airdams" on my car are the two air diverters (wheel spoilers) that sit ahead of my front wheels to split the airflow around the wheels. This split airflow is maintained via the double side skirts to the rear wheels and then ideally (future project) should have a small boattail fin behind each rear wheel to reduce its eddy. If you look at the Loremo and the Daihatsu UFEIII, they have airflow splitters in front of each of their front wheels and the UFEIII has a small boattail behind each rear wheel. If you insist on going with an airdam, you can make it a variable height airdam that is deepest in front of each wheel and highest in the section between the wheels. Some airdam-equipped Audis and BMW's go this route."
I think these two things fill in the holes of what we are missing between Bugsy's observations and my reading other peoples stuff.
-
Sorry to bring this back on topic.... ;D
IL Roads-1, Subframe-0....
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110307150751.jpg)
2 things are happening this week. 1, Thursday I am picking up a fresh subframe from a guy I have bought some parts from for $40. Great guy!
2, getting a 1995 Honda Accord to eventually replace the Crown Vic, as soon as this car gets done.
-
It has been awhile but I finally started tearing the car apart.
Here is what it looks like:
Just jumping in and forgot I wanted to take pics! :P
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110325161441.jpg)
2 hours later
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110325181120.jpg)
Now this had me marveling at the ingenuity of the Germans. As I was unbolting the axle flanges (?) from the tranny, I was mentally cussing at myself as to how I was gonna get the exhaust off. Being from American muscle, all the down pipes are bolted together and usually rusted to the point where we need to cut it off. It was to my surprise that 2 large pieces of spring steel held it on! WOOT!
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110325181132.jpg)
Now, I am gonna do a "soft" rebuild. New gaskets, hoses, general maintenance. Gasket match the intake and exhaust, add a 2.5" manifold and downpipe. New 2.5" exhaust, wire tuck, OEM+ bay.
-
There are more spots for dirt to hide then a soldier has pockets in these engine bays. Take your time and clean them out, so rust can't build up in them.
-
Mind to tell me where the big ones are so I can take care of the problems?
-
Thought I posted this Friday night but oh well...
Got some work done today. This is the reason I yanked everything to begin with....
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407165723.jpg)
Driver side (the ailing side) is on the right...
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407165732.jpg)
Somethings I found when I took the sub frame out:
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407170320.jpg)
Torn drivers side steering boot
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407170353.jpg)
Passengers side has been rewelded. Screw driver went right through it next to a weld. :o
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407170335.jpg)
Passenger side strut fell out in 3 pieces, strut and body, spring, bearing(s).
Anyone want to help me here? There are 2 brake lines going to the rear brakes. I thought (never checked) these cars had a valve on the rear beam? ???
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407170448.jpg)
And every build is not without carnage :'(
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407170513.jpg)
Drivers side front sub frame bolt. :-X
As it now sits. Saturday [never happened. I spent time with my brother and his mk4 TDI] I am pulling more out of the engine bay, pulling the existing harness, getting the newer harness out of the car, and matching up everything to lengthen the harness for a wire tuck. ;D
(http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh154/oldestof11/85%20Golf/20110407165711.jpg)
-
That sub frame is kippered! Looks like you got a fair old job there before you start on the fuel economy, just getting it safe.
As for the master cylinder, maybe its the early ones that had bias valves to reduce pressure to the rear, mk1s deffo had them, not so sure if all mk2s had them, mk3s definately had an axle mounted compensation valve that moves as you load it up.
Looks like you will have your work cut out on this build.
-
Well, FWIW, this Golf is a 85 with a build date of 12/84.
-
Well, FWIW, this Golf is a 85 with a build date of 12/84.
Yeah see that sounds to me like the mk1/2 change over period, I know here in the uk I have seen both mk1s and mk2s registered the same year, so would guess that later on they evolved the axle compensator. Seems odd it took so long really and the old baywindow campers from the 70s had a brake compensation valve, although not connected to the rear axle (and based on the angle of the vehicle for load) it still had a seperate unit.
-
The wind of change seem to be, well, changing!
I am talking to a guy on the Tex about a Caddy. If so, I get my diesel pickup with awesome MPG ratings! It is currently a gas CIS-E, running, with some rust but hopefully not as rusty as this car. I am finding stuff I don't like. Structural integrity seems to be good but it needs new floor pans, the K member which I just got, various parts, etc.
So, will a MK2 tranny be a direct fit into a MK1 Caddy?
-
http://www.brokevw.com/020mount.html
-
The Golf is being part out. I cannot knowingly drive this with the structural integrity compromised. I also do not have the funds to rebuild it. So it is being sold off. :(
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29020.0
-
that is the correct master cylinder FWIW.. and brake lines. no prop valve back on the beam..