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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: wil892 on August 21, 2010, 07:39:36 am
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Hi
My GTD has its original radiator, so being almost 20 years old I think it could be the cause of my slightly warmer temperatures when going up hill. It currently runs the VW G12++ antifreeze and all is clear but I think that over 20 years the efficiency must have decreased.
Anyway, having had bad experiences with cheap radiators I'm looking for a good quality one. I've noticed that the original radiator has the flat cores, like this Nissens one.
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_14_50_101_1362&info=Nissens_191121253A_Radiator_With_A/C&products_id=2221 (http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_14_50_101_1362&info=Nissens_191121253A_Radiator_With_A/C&products_id=2221)
but looking on ebay all the radiators have the thick cylindrical cores running through the middle.
The original radiator looks like it would have a better efficiency than these ones, so what make radiator can I buy that will give me the flat cores and quality i'm looking for.
Obviousely I would buy from MJM but my car doesnt have AC and I'm in the UK.
Thanks
Will
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A/C UNITS 575 MM LONG
SCIROCCO 16 V 675 MM LONG
GERMANAUTOPART.COM
AZAUTOHAUS.COM
16V SCIROCCO 1988 87.00 NEW ( 675 MM )
My next install project MK
I will duplicate the 16 v a/c radiator hoses also...
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A/C UNITS 575 MM LONG
SCIROCCO 16 V 675 MM LONG
GERMANAUTOPART.COM
AZAUTOHAUS.COM
16V SCIROCCO 1988 87.00 NEW ( 675 MM )
My next install project MK
I will duplicate the 16 v a/c radiator hoses also...
The 16V Scirocco is the EXACT same radiator used on all MK2 diesels with AC. Absolutely no difference whatsoever. Installing one on a MK1 involves some modifications to say the least.
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16v scirocco with a/c has a angled out upper outlet and the hose has a t line to resv tank
This hose upper is 95.10 new
Lower 533121051a 16V lower
Non a/c 675 mm have a overflow nipple on the radiator, uses 7.5 mm Coolant hose from radiator to overflow bottle
upper hose 191121101AB 15.50
Upper radiator hose with a/c Jetta 1991 diesel
191121101AK upper with t coolant 40.26
191121051P lower radiator 7.87 , fit's 16v also
Both models will be in put in silicone 5 ply in the future
GB
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I don't think there is any way you could install the 675mm radiator into an Mk1 - with all stock stuff.
But open to correction.
It might be because i have A/C and the arrangement puts the alternator out farther towards the radiator ? both mine have A/C so its all i got to go by.
The 575mm unit is all it can handle. Goes from alternator to driver headlight with very very little room left.
I got a Modine brand 575mm, i think that is what MJM offers also.
It was quality merchandise. A local Worldpac dealer matched MJM price of $125 out the door.
You could definitely drop the 575mm right into place on your Non-A/C car. The radiator support top rail has the provision for it.
And if there is room for a radiator to go past your alternator, you could do the 675mm probably also.
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I have a south african core support ,26.5 inches will work , I have room on both side for intercooler
575 MM Installed now
I will let you know in a few day's
No a/c, plenty of room for 28 x 2.5 Intercooler
GB
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Hey Baron care to bet on this..... ?
I will have parts in a couple of day's
Going to pull the radiator fan support for powdercoating satin black, I will install a new fan....
waiting on some paint from Expresspaint.com
They do oem color matches in a can, removing battery bracket....
GB
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I'd bet on mine, but not on yours ! ;) lol
I think you already did the 675mm with South African front on the last Truck already.
I'm just curious if one were using all bone stock USA assembly line components - if they could handle the 675mm - on a Non A/C Mk1 car. All the Mk1's i have access to around here are factory A/C.
The A/C cars have no chance if still wearing a compressor/alt arrangement. And I'm amazed how folks get by with stock Mk1 non-A/C radiators - especially with a TD engine.
Those rads are tiny.
I'm using Mk2 shroud / 2spd fan / blade.
71c Thermostat
Been using 85c/93c fan switch because it was all i could get at that time - but haven't really liked how the gauge reads to me sometimes in some conditions.
Just got a 75c/82c fan switch in hand - should do the trick like i want. Let that fan run some for goodness sakes. Its why i put it in there anyway. I can get more fans !! It was hardly ever coming on.
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675 mm fit's, Iam just use the lh hole in the SF core support, drill and dimple a new hole
Waiting on hoses and rubber bumpers for pin mounts and those hard to find radiator supports
The nissen's radiator is much better, the mk1 shroud fit's this and the coolant temp is not on the side like my 575 mm MK1 type
GB
search 1991 jetta 1.6 for parts at AUTOHAUSAZ.COM
RUBBER BUMPERS 171121276D
RADIATOR SUPPORTS 191121265C & 191121265B
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It fit with room to spare on both sides !
Iam waiting on the MKII shroud to come back from the powder coater and will install a new two speed fan
I purchased a new a/c alternator bracket and I want to move the alt above to give more room around the lower hose assy
GB
Want a pic ?
let me know at [email protected]
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Does anyone know where they put the part number on a radiator? I've looked all over mine and can't see one.
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Is it a 525 or 568 long
The 675 a/c have a angle top
675 non a/c have straight outlet
Iam using a 16 v lower a/c lower scirocco hose , since it make's a 90 degree bend down
Send me a pic
[email protected]
I have two a/c models 675, one 675 non a/c
and one 568 mk1
they are all metal type ( Beher) Brazil mfg'
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I found the nissens one for GTD with air at FAP99.com for $84! If it helps anyone!
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(http://)(http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab151/08Hes_dead_Jim/Rabbit%20engine%20rebuild/12150001.jpg)(http://[IMG]http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab151/08Hes_dead_Jim/Rabbit%20engine%20rebuild/12150003.jpg)(http://)[/img](http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab151/08Hes_dead_Jim/Rabbit%20engine%20rebuild/12150005.jpg)
Core is 21 3/4". which according to my handy dandy cell phone converter calculator equates out to 552.45 mm. It also seems you don't see that 45 degree lower hose connection very often. I was just thinking if I could get an original part number I'd be better armed to do some cross referencing. Oh and it's a 79 Rabbit by the way...... I do believe that's the original radiator although I'm not 100% sure as I've only owned it since 96.
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straight lower outlet is more rare than the angled lower outlet.. try finding a hose for the straight outlet!
or maybe its the other way around.. but i swear its harder to get the straight connection radiators and hoses..
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straight lower outlet is more rare than the angled lower outlet.. try finding a hose for the straight outlet!
or maybe its the other way around.. but i swear its harder to get the straight connection radiators and hoses..
You may be right, I'm far from any kind of expert on radiators. I've been looking around online until my brain hurts and most of the ones I see have a straight lower connection, not all, but most. It could just be that I'm looking in the wrong places though.
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i am wrong.. you were right.. the angled lower connection is the more rare..
if you get a rad with a straight connection, then all you need to do is get the right lower hose for the radiator. then it all fits..
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All 675 are angled bottom
a/c are angled top
Here you go:http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=0gx1l445fmytmc45kijzu245&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1285657@SCIROCCO 16-VALVE&year=1988&cid=16@Cooling System&gid=2172@Radiator
I have two of each in stock,
hoses are like this for a/c and non a/c model
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=0gx1l445fmytmc45kijzu245&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1283352@JETTA GL&year=1991&cid=16@Cooling System&gid=10068@Radiator Hose
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Correct hose lower, 675 mm radiator
19110251 P, jetta 1.6 td
Scirocco 533121051 A
I make both in silicone, The scirocco hose fit's better
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Sorry GB I did forget to mention that it's NON a/c.
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Thanks, yeah i've noticed the temp is about where it usually was!! oh well, I did find out my waterpump was on its way out while doing it so I guess not everything is lost.
TBH the original rad was very good quality, my new one is from germany but its got cylindrical cores rather than the flat ones my old one had. I would have thought the flat ones would have greater surface area but the engine seems to keep the same temps.
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You know Libby now that you mention that I've kinda been on the fence about this radiator. In the 14 or so years that I've owned this car it always has warmed up when pulling a grade, never into the red but pretty close sometimes. In my first few years of owning it it did worry me some but later on I found out it was fairly common so I quit worrying as long as it didn't make it into the red. Since the engine is getting rebuilt the thoroughness in me says might as well have an all new cooling system as well since everything going into the engine is brand new, and that radiatior is 31 years old after all. On the other hand I don't think there's really anything wrong with it. It's always ran at a pretty steady temp other than when on a grade, and it never has leaked so the cheapskate in me is saying why not hang onto it. I think in the end though the best thing to do is get a new one. More peace of mind for me.
Oh and sorry wil892 for hijacking your thread.....I just figured why start another one when we were both doing essentially the same thing.
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The TDI temperature gauge is a *classic* example of what Andrew is talking about.
During normal operation my Scangauge shows the actual engine coolant temperature constantly varying between 70C and 90C.... going up with load, dropping drastically when idling on a cold winter day etc.
The dash gauge, on the other hand... slowly climbs more or less linearly as the engine warms up to the exact middle of the scale (90) and then stays there permanently... regardless of the actual coolant temperature variations. The gauge is computer controled, so this behaviour is programmed and deliberate.
At least it pretends to be an analog gauge... the oil pressure "gauge" on my Mazda pickup is connected to a standard on/off pressure switch... a couple of resistors inside the gauge convert "on" to "middle of the scale". ;-)
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I have a Ford Ranger which I believe is nothing more than a Mazda pickup in disguise, and I've noticed the same thing about the oil pressure guage. About the only time it ever moves is when you turn the key off.