VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: RabbitJockey on June 11, 2010, 08:42:07 pm
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well, probably three years ago i cracked the head on my jetta, i thought it was just a hg so i went ahead and got it painted before fixing the engine. that turned into a fiasco the guy had it for a year and a half or 2 years, did a half assed job, destroyed some stuff and lost some stuff. but i was younger and had no nuts so i got shat on, it happens. anyways i got the car back from him, put a new wiring harness in and a brand new fuse panel. I got into my new garage in june 09 and pulled the head so i could stick a hg on, and there was a big crack in the head at cyl 3 going from the prechamber to the valve, it was quite disappointing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Photo0080.jpg)
after that i didn't really do anything with it, only cause i had alot of stuff changing for me, i got a gf and moved out and all my car time went to my dd rabbit and gfs pos mini. then her minis trans died and cost 9k to fix at the dealer, so its still sitting today. no one rebuilds the mini cvt trans and a refurb is 4-6 grand itself, her warranty was up so shes stuck making payments, and paying full insurance until we can get it traded it or something. so i bought her a 90 cabby and then that started taking up some of my time.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Photo0124.jpg)
My brother bought a house with a 4 car garage and my jettas up there now. i am in the middle of buying a house(i settle the 18th) and i really wanna drive my jetta this summer and take it to atleast one car show. Its a busy time for me but i'm tired of having a car i can't drive and just doing nothing with it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Photo0139.jpg)
So far i measured the bores, i forget the numbers but they're with in spec, and actually this engine is already bored .020 over. i checked the ring gap in cylinder 3 and it was .030. so now i am in need of atleast a rering (bearings and everything else look great) but i have another block i bought of tyler a long time ago, and also a 1.9 head to go with it. this block also has good bores and i want to go over it and do a total rebuild and repaint it. but i dunno if i should just put my old engine back together or build the totally new one, or just take my new engine and head to a machine shop and have them put it all together for me. if i do my new engine i'll get the aaz ported and do upgraded hardware through out.
i started cleaning the new engine up, pretending to know what i am doing haha.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Photo0079.jpg)
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i'm torn for what to do which is probably why i am still not driving it. i'd love to do it myself as much as possible, i just never did this stuff before, and it's not that i am a dumb ass or anything, just have no experiece here to know what is really ok and what isn't.
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do the rebuild yourself, it is not that hard, and will do nothing but good for you personally.
and you need to post a pic of the hood ornament in the background of the last pic.
-Owen
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haha it's funny every time i post a pic with my rabbit in it someone wants to see that. it's not bunny ears so i hope u won't be disapointed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Photo0099.jpg)
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Sorry just a quick sidetrack, but the 1.6D on the back of the block, have i read somewhere this determines a 12mm block? or am I smoking something? ;) Cars look good, i wish you luck. sorry for hijack
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Slap the AAZ head on it and drive it for the summer while you rebuild the block I sold you. Then over the winter do the old switcharoo. I'm assuming you will be using head studs so you will only be out a headgasket and fluids.
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Sorry just a quick sidetrack, but the 1.6D on the back of the block, have i read somewhere this determines a 12mm block? or am I smoking something? ;) Cars look good, i wish you luck. sorry for hijack
i think when it says 1.6d is indefinitely a 12mm block, and when it says 16d it can be either or, its not really that hard to tell either way tho you can just check the crank sprocket bolt size if its 17mm its an 11mm engine if its 19mm its a 12mm. ok i remember figuring mos tof this out a while ago i actually posted it on here, if it says 16d it can be 12mm or 11mm, it says 1.6d is defintely a 12mm can even be a hydro block, or a td block.
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Slap the AAZ head on it and drive it for the summer while you rebuild the block I sold you. Then over the winter do the old switcharoo. I'm assuming you will be using head studs so you will only be out a headgasket and fluids.
the block in the car is solid lifter and i have a super nice solid lifter td head with no cracks between the valves i'll probably sit on if i rering it. the head may need a valve job tho.
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ok i will check that, i think i'll be alright tho because it was a pretty fresh engine before i destroyed it
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its not really that hard to tell either way tho you can just check the crank sprocket bolt size if its 17mm its an 11mm engine if its 19mm its a 12mm.
Mine has a 17mm crank bolt and 12mm headbolts.
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Mine has a 17mm crank bolt and 12mm headbolts.
factory?
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glad to see this thing is getting worked on again
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Mine has a 17mm crank bolt and 12mm headbolts.
mine too
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glad to see this thing is getting worked on again
i'm trying haha
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dropped the rods off at the machine shop, getting arp bolts put in, big ends checked and resized if they need it, and also polished and balanced while they're in there. woot woot
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I know what your feeling, before my brother left for kuwait he dropped off his 1.6td motor just the block on an engine stand and the head on my counter and a huge box of parts, so many long nights and posts on here and its running, im no genius or true car guy, i just followed the book and used some common sense, sometimes lol.. We will help you through this... ;D
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i finally have time for this car, and i figure it like you have, i can just take my time and learn as i go, my plan is to have it mk1 madness (i planned to have it there the last few years haha) but if not hopefully i can have it at h2o
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Where do you live? If you haven't figured it out I'm anakinkenobe on vortex lol...
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head is disassembled, taking it to the machine shop monday
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actually im gonna port it first, while it's out... ;D
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hells yeah! This is coming along!! lol
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Where do you live? If you haven't figured it out I'm anakinkenobe on vortex lol...
i am in central pennsylvania
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arp bolts installed, big end resized, rebushed, polished, and balanced, all for 100, then figure another 120 for the bolts...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0001.jpg)
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anyone have suggestions for cleaning up the pistons and valves? i don't wanns it and scrape them i wanna find a magic way to make the carbon fall off, i'm gonna try boiling them tonight, perhaps with baking soda
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Boiling baking soda may do the trick. I let my TDI intake soak in a no name wally world degreaser for a few nights.. then hit it with a warm water power washer. Cleaned them right up.
Warm degreaser bath and then a boiling rinse should do most of the work, minimal scrubbing needed.
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got the pistons and valves soaking in baking soda paste
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well i went down and cleaned 2 of the pistons with a tooth brush in the sink, the baking soda definitely works, and it works better than zip strip, plus it stinks less and doesn't burn your skin haha. tomorrow i'll buy a cheap pot to boil this bad boys in
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so i left it them set over night, baking soda does help but doesn't really make the stuff fall off or anything, u can see it draws the oil out of them or something, but like i said, im gonna boil them tonight, i think that will do it
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0002.jpg)
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can't say i recommend boiling them, it seemed to work pretty well, but it smelled off and really makes a mess and is still very time consuming, if u just cleaning off a set of intake valves or something then i'd say its a very good way, but not a set of pistons
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York? Cause im real close to central pa lol... i drive through it once a month to get to my base...
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yep i live in york
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boiling definitely helps, i'm not quite sure its worth the hassle, but to get them perfectly awesomely clean i think boiling them works well, the carbon comes off super easy after that, the baking soda helps but still takes work to get them off, if anyone has suggestions or wants to tell me something i am doing wrong please tell me
cook up a tasty snack
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0001-1.jpg)
the water was black when this one was done
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0003.jpg)
far left was the one i boiled, the rest were just soaked in baking soda, scrubbed with a brushed and cleaned with a tooth brushed, rubbed down all over with a rag, cleaned the ring lands out with a broken ring, i've been told thats a bad idea, but i did it anyway haha, the still need a bit more
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0004.jpg)
tops, i think i will go over these a bit more
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0005.jpg)
here is a nick i noticed, not quite sure what i am going to do about it
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0006-Copy.jpg)
ring lands of the boiled piston, definitely better than the others
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0008.jpg)
ring land of one i didn't boil, pretty good but could be better
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0009.jpg)
piston on the left is from cylinder #3, on the right is #4 to compare, cylinder 3 is the one where the head cracked, u can see the injection pattern deal is wider and the carbon didn't come off that side so well
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0010.jpg)
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so i left them sit with baking soda paste on them again, then cleaned them all over with the tooth brush again, they're starting to look almost new, i'm gonna do this again and they will look almost new by then, you can really see the difference much better on cylinder 3 where the spray pattern is much wider, and a lot more discolored and turned kind of blue, so its obvious that it was much much hotter in that cylinder
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On valves and piston tops most people just use a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Try your piston boiling thing and then your broken ring or groove cleaner for the grooves. Hell I've actualy seen people use hacksaw blades before but I imagine it put some extra clearance wheree it wasn't wanted. Don't use the wire wheel in the grooves either, just the tops. I'd be lost without that wheel to clean things.
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If it is a standard piston for 1.6 *not reading again sorry* I have my set of 4 if that knick bothers you too much :D
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On valves and piston tops most people just use a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Try your piston boiling thing and then your broken ring or groove cleaner for the grooves. Hell I've actualy seen people use hacksaw blades before but I imagine it put some extra clearance wheree it wasn't wanted. Don't use the wire wheel in the grooves either, just the tops. I'd be lost without that wheel to clean things.
yeah the valves didn't really get all that clean, the bottom did, but the top has some hard chunks on it, these pistons are 20 over
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think i might boil number 3 again it still has small bits here and there
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0016.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0015.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0014.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCI0013.jpg)
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been working on porting here and there as i have time, just gasket matching and cleaning things up, i wanna try to take the harshness out of the turn in the exhaust ports but its hard to get in that angle
the set up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0799.jpg)
look how much the exhaust needs opened up holey moley
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0798.jpg)
the intake and what i have done so far, just cleaned it all and smooth transitions i'm not gonna mess with the guide hump just run over it to resurface
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0796.jpg)
stock intake
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0797.jpg)
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while i was working on my daily i did a few things on the car itself. front poly bushings and coil overs, not lowered down or anything
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/02-06-11_1717.jpg)
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Looks good.
About how long did it take to port each runner?
What coilovers are you using?
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i only did 2 so far haha, takes a long time and you gotta be really really careful, you can't monkey around too much in the bowl area, i just cleaned everything up and gasket matched, i would say about an hour per port. maybe so people work faster, but i wasn't in a hurry i am trying to be carful u know. has weitec xs coil overs i believe, they are the fully adjustable ones. i bought them probably 6 years ago, been collecting dust since then.
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well, its been eons since i posted in here, i finally finished porting the head, and took it to the machine shop. When i ported the head, i gasket matched all the ports, and then sanded the whole way down the ports to remove all the casting marks, and to resurface everything down the port. around the valve seat you make the aluminum part of the port all match the valve seat, and then again do the same thing, resurface everything and clean up any boogers or casting marks. on the exhaust ports i tried to remove how harsh the turn is. the guy at the machine shop said it looked good, but they could have done it much more quickly haha, and they have a machine that opens up the valve seat area.
anyways porting really can make a big difference, just by examining the area, lets say u have a 25mm port that is a perfect circle. you then have an area of 491mm squared. so lets say gasket matching adds .5mm all the way around and u now have a 26mm port. and yes i probably removed a tleast a mm to gasket match the exhaust ports. so a 26 mm port would have an area of 531mm squared. thats an increase of the area of flow of nearly 10%. theres a million other factors when it comes to how much a head can flow, but its a perfect example of how such a minor difference can increase the flow rate of the head in a significant way.
more updates as i progress, assuming that i continue to progress haha
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i read thru the posts on boiling in baking soda and h2o
i fly r/c airplanes.
ive read on r/c forums about cleaning the engines
im not sure the exact steps
but i think it was use an old crock pot, set on low or some other setting
full with anti freeze
over night
the parts come out clean
very clean
in the morning.
i went to rcuniverse. typed in search - antifreeze clean.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_326599/anchors_326599/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#326599
this may help
jon
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haha i was reading where it said put the whole engine in the crock pot, i was thinking wtf, then i remembered rc plane. thats an interesting idea to try, honestly boiling the pistons hardly did ***, letting them sit covered in backing soda paste worked quite well tho, took a couple days but only maybe an hours worth of work total.
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I wouldn't worry about that nick down by the oil ring, too far down to matter much, but mark it with a spot of felt tip, and avoid aligning middle ring gap with it to be sure.
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I wouldn't worry about that nick down by the oil ring, too far down to matter much, but mark it with a spot of felt tip, and avoid aligning middle ring gap with it to be sure.
thats a good idea with the ring gap, i usually just face top ring away from the exhaust side and the precup since that is the hottest 2/3 of the engine i would assume
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been working on porting here and there as i have time, just gasket matching and cleaning things up, i wanna try to take the harshness out of the turn in the exhaust ports but its hard to get in that angle
look how much the exhaust needs opened up holey moley
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0798.jpg)
the intake and what i have done so far, just cleaned it all and smooth transitions i'm not gonna mess with the guide hump just run over it to resurface
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0796.jpg)
stock intake
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0797.jpg)
sorry, not to come in here and piss on your parade but your not suppose to gasket match your ports. you want to port match. going from small cross sectional area to a larger cross sectional area slow the air velocity and hurts performance (intake side).
as far as the exhaust you want to make sure your manifold is not small then your ports. diesels don't have much valve overlap so you don't have to worry about exhaust reservation
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/keatonstanley/junk/gasketporting.jpg?t=1312825257)
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i have matched the intake manifold to the gasket as well, so the parade has not been peepeed on
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got the head back today, cost me 385 for all new valves, guides, and seals, plus they setup the valves for me. they also sand blasted the ports, which really let me see a lot of stuff i could have dont better, regardless tho the head will flow better than it did. the mistake i have made, is i forgot to tell them to not resurface the head, and they did. ugh. i really didn not want them to mess with the deck at all. i don't think its their fault but i have also noticed cracks in the prechambers, had they not resurfaced the head this would be an easy fix since i could just swap then out for the prechambers from my old cracked head.
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ok so here are the pictures of the pre cups, its hard to take pictures of little hair line cracks, but i did my best, what does everyone thing? i don't want a hunk of inconel to ruin my engine after i finally get it back together. and i still have the prechambers from the head i cracked, im not sure of the condition though.
number 1
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/cyl1.jpg)
number 2
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/cyl2.jpg)
number 3
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/cyl3.jpg)
and cylinder number 4
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/cyl4.jpg)
also here is a picture of the head, i was pretty happy with their work and price, aside from them shaving the head i'll have to call and see how much they took off.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0848.jpg)
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i would quite love some commentary on the prechamber cracks ;)
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I wouldn't leave them, I had one come apart once. Not a pretty picrure.
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I wouldn't leave them, I had one come apart once. Not a pretty picrure.
yes this what i am leaning towards, i don't plan on making this some monster engine since i just wanna get it back together so i can drive the car, but at the same time i am certainly going to run this car hard.
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those cracks are NOTHING..
ive seen heads come off it MUCH WORSE shape than that, with no ill side effect..
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those cracks are NOTHING..
ive seen heads come off it MUCH WORSE shape than that, with no ill side effect..
i spoke with one of the local diesel gurus, he rebuilds tons of these engines. i showed him the head before i took it to the machine shop so he knew it didn't need machined. anyways he said a few hair line cracks are no big deal because the prechambers are made from really good metal. he was a machinist by trade so i definitely trust him. it still really bothers me that they shaved the head just to clean it up, when it wasn't warped and there was nothing wrong with it, but oh well they can't put the material back on
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well adam and brandon came down, and are helping me with rebuilding the turbo, adam used to work for a diesel shop so hes rebuilt a ton of turbos. What were doing is using the exhaust side, and center section from the vw t3, and then using the back plate, compressor wheel and compressor housing from a mercedes diesel t3. the mercedes compressor is a 45 trim, the a/r of the compressor is .42 but on compressor housings the a/r is quite irrelevant.
for comparison, the vw and mercedes compressor wheels:
the mercedes wheel is on the left, u can the see the small diameter is quite a bit larger, the big diameter is the same. the vw compressor is 35 trim.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Photo0291.jpg)
and just for comparisons sake, here is the mercedes turbine next to the vw turbine, the mercedes turbine has the same small diameter, but a bigger large diameter. the vw turbine is the standard t3 size, and is the same as t3 fords, saabs, grand nationals, and most anything else that came with a t3. for what ever reason the mercedes t3 is the odd man out with the larger wheel, what effect this has on spool up and flow i have no idea. but i am using the vw turbine wheel and vw .36 a/r exhaust housing so it doesn't matter haha.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/Photo0290.jpg)
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here is how i have mapped it at 30 psi and reving to 6k, volumetric efficiency at 80% supposedly some where around 180whp, how ever i doubt it will do that much, unless i have good intercooling and very good flowing intake manifold with giles pump. it goes off the map some in the higher rpms, not ideal but the high pressure ratio areas of the compressor maps, are not always mapped because the compressors were not meant to be used on applications with this low of flow and this high of a pressure ratio, so its not necessarily inefficient in those areas, also the choke limit of the maps is generally just where the compressor becomes less than 60% inefficient. loads of people run turbos past the choke limit on here with no ill effects, if we drove gassers where super hot intake air temperatures caused pinging and stuff it would be alot more crucial, but since we drive diesels we can get away with passing the choke limit a bit.
the points on the map represent these rpms in order 1000, 3000, 3400, 3800, 4400, 5000, 5500, 6000
im hoping to have the spool of the vw diesel, with the efficiency and flow of the mercedes turbo. i know a few people have built the
k26/k24 hybrids with poor results, ive looked at the k26 map, and although the 1.6 stays well within the operating range of that compressor it is never in a very efficient part of the map, this coupled with the k24's smaller exhaust housing .30 a/r i believe is what created excessive back pressure which lead to excessive egts. vw t3 exhaust housing is .36 a/r so slightly bigger, and it also has one less blade in the turbine wheel.
(http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/graph.php?version=4&pr0=1&pr1=1.07&pr2=2.02&pr3=2.98&pr4=2.98&pr5=2.98&pr6=2.98&pr7=2.98&airflow0=1.6&airflow1=5.2&airflow2=10.9&airflow3=17.5&airflow4=20&airflow5=21.6&airflow6=24.6&airflow7=26.7&product_id=76)
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been working on porting here and there as i have time, just gasket matching and cleaning things up, i wanna try to take the harshness out of the turn in the exhaust ports but its hard to get in that angle
look how much the exhaust needs opened up holey moley
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0798.jpg)
the intake and what i have done so far, just cleaned it all and smooth transitions i'm not gonna mess with the guide hump just run over it to resurface
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0796.jpg)
stock intake
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0797.jpg)
sorry, not to come in here and piss on your parade but your not suppose to gasket match your ports. you want to port match. going from small cross sectional area to a larger cross sectional area slow the air velocity and hurts performance (intake side).
as far as the exhaust you want to make sure your manifold is not small then your ports. diesels don't have much valve overlap so you don't have to worry about exhaust reservation
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/keatonstanley/junk/gasketporting.jpg?t=1312825257)
some of this is correct but there is much more to it when boost is involved and other variables. when both sides of your ports are both smaller than the gasket itself matching it to the gasket is fine. smooth transitions will help you more than anything else.
have you ever looked how much material can be taken off just the exhaust? it looks just like that picture you put but going the opposite direction. the air hits a wall. and with the intakes and exhaust manifolds on these cars. even if its not ideal its still going to be better than stock.
one thing i think travis and i both did wrong with are heads is the ports are too smooth. they should be more like a golf ball and have dimples. thats the ideal way.
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mine were pretty rough but they sand blasted my ports at the machine shop, i'm not bothered by it
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21630.0
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here is a link to someone that built a similar turbo as me, but he used the mercedes turbine wheel in a machined vw turbine housing, im not a machinist so i can't use the mercedes wheel, how ever it looks like he just used a hand grinder to get it right
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21630.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=21630.0)
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The charge for this machining would be $100.00. We would not suggest it however, the wheel is heavy and inefficient and would not work well with your engine. They had more negative effects than positive, so they were replaced with the wheel that you have now
this is what gpop told me... very interesting it makes sense too since the merc turbo diesel was available in the late 70s, where the vw didn't get introduced until 1983. great info.
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and then i asked them, excluding the effects of the mercedes turbine wheel being heavier and less efficient, how does the larger turbine inducer with the same exducer effect things?
In theory the larger fins catch more exhaust flow and cause faster spool up. What was found though was that it was better to direct more flow to the turbine than to try to "catch" more flow. They also found that more curvature of the blades (instead of straight paddles) not only "caught" more air but also started the flow in the right direction reducing turbulence. We hope this helps, let us know if you need anything else. Thank you,
so keeping this in mind, the newer staged wheels for the t3, all have the same inducer size as the mercedes, but they also have larger exducers as well, which increase as u go to higher stages. they also are curved and more modern in design than the ancient oem t3's, so with even just a stage 2 wheel, you would be able maintain or gain spool up, while increasing flow greatly.
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yay i did some work on it this past week or two... just small stuff
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/photo2.jpg)
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Mind if I ask what the copper tubing to going to be for?
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I would think a driver pressure gauge.
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Yeah for an emp(exhaust manifold pressure) gauge. for the turbo I'm putting on I'm not particularly concerned but in the future I plan to experiment with bigger compressors possibly a 50 trim to4e. But I'd really like to find a 50 or 55 trim t3 Compressor with the stock vw turbine housing bored out for a stage 3 turbonetics turbine wheel that should be good for a fast spooling 200-250hp. Unfortunately tho the 50 and 55 trims are pretty hard to find and usually cost more than I wanna pay for a 30 year old turbo
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Cool thing is tho it gives u an idea of when you're running too much boost, or if u can crank it up some more
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not that i got much of anything done, but i have the turbo put together and most everything bolted to the head. i just wanted to post the picture because i think its funny how the turbo looks almost completely stock yet it can flow nearly 100 more hp than the stock turbo. it is the stock vw hot side and a volvo 50 trim t3 compressor. ported head, ported intake, ported aaz aluminum elbow, and ported exhaust manifold.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/b34df91c.jpg)
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Oh the joys of a build taking 2+ years. You sir are dedicated. And if I liked turbos I'd say that's a pretty sexy picture right there.
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Oh the joys of a build taking 2+ years. You sir are dedicated. And if I liked turbos I'd say that's a pretty sexy picture right there.
hey i'll never give up on this car, its just my little project for when i have free time or need something to make me smile, doesn't matter to me if it takes 10 years, and i'm a car guy so i'll always have a project of some kind. although the build is more like 8-9 years since i've had this car from when i was about 15-16, and its been off the road for 4 years. right now i'm kinda stuck on a decision i need to make. i ahve my 81 rabbit i got 5 years ago with only 85k(130k now), its a clean one with almost no rust, and we all know nice rabbits don't grow on trees anymore. So i don't like daily driving it like i have been for the past 5 years, and i found a pretty nice tdi to buy from someone i trust, but then i should sell my rabbit cause there is no purpose to having so many cars, and so little money haha.