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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ffgb on May 20, 2010, 05:21:00 pm
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Well, I have approached the 500 mile mark on my rebuilt motor. Just a few issues with my 1984 Rabbit 1.6 N/A.
1) Had to fix valve cover leak
2) Had to retighten 3 times the oil pan because the windage tray w/integrated gasket was leaking
3) Had to buy new heater core because now all of a sudden it is leaking, possibly because the heater core sat for 1month empty and with new water pump, a leak appeared because of the pressure.
4) Noticed oil in the intake manifold, I thought this would stop after the rebuild, but it is there, and my motor does not smoke at all!
Further, do I need to retorque the cylinder head bolts? I have the 12mm ARP cylinder head studs. I used their moly lube and torqued the head down to 80ft/lbs. It has a fiber gasket. I haven't been loosing any coolant other than from the heater core.
If I need to retorque the cylinder head stud nuts, what is the proper procedure, loosen the nut 1/4 turn, then torque to 80ft/lbs? Or loosen 1/4 turn, then torque to 85ft/lbs? Or do not loosen the nut on the stud and tighten/torque to 85-90ft/lbs?
Thanks!
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I'm with you - do you have to re-torque after warm and then after a few miles like the orignal vw stretch bolts. I thought with ARP stuff that was all not necessary?
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I'd slacken and then retorque.
It's not, [in my view] about the bolt stretch, but more of the gasket squishing [ah that dreadful word] 'plastic deformation' is better ;D
I'd also torque to the same level, as it had been sufficient for 500 miles, and maybe extra torque might restart the plastic thingy ;D