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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: westcoaster on March 03, 2010, 04:50:49 pm
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Help me check the timing on my MF block 1.6 turbo diesel please. Fresh re-ring engine rebuild, Giles rebuilt injectors, rebuilt k24 turbo, injection pump with unknown miles. This engine is sitting in an '87 suzuki samurai.
I don't have a book nor the tools to do this.
It is running and driving but I am having issues with it.
Need the cold start lever to start in temperatures around 10*c after sitting for ~24 hours (hot or warm engine it is not required)
whitish blue smoke after the engine has been idling (stop and go city traffic with more stop than go)
The engine idles clear, only with acceleration does it smoke then clears up. Start and stop without much idle time seems reasonably clear.
Located in Surrey BC
westcoasterz at gmail dot com
Thanks,
Jarl
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what do you do for Glow Plugs? Also what brand Bosch duratherms are the ONLY way to go on glow plugs.
I would also check pump timming. If you don't have the tools go try and get them as you should need them for a while if you ever do a timming belt or loosen the pump for any reason. You can try to advance the timming by ear, but try to scribe marks so you know where you started from.
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All the glow plugs were verified good when I changed the injectors (previous owner had also recently changed them)
Verified by turning the key on with the injectors removed. all the plugs glowed...
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How long ago and what brand. I went through two sets in a year once of non duratherms, and on the same car I usually only got a year out of my duratherms. Plus if they were in there awhile before they may be up. Just an idea.
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They were checked shortly after Christmas or 1000 miles ago.
No idea on the brand...
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Gonna be hard to do anything meaningful without instructions and tools. :'(
The FAQ has a link to some random dude's thoughts on how to set the timing and make *most* of the tools. ;)
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Gonna be hard to do anything meaningful without instructions and tools. :'(
I know, that's why I posted up. :'(
On the bright side it's an opportunity to meet new people and have a pop or two... :)
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I would check out the GPs and GP system you have first. If it goes away once heat is in the engine the timing probably isn't all that bad. It would be best to check it, but see what your GPs and GP relay, wiring, etc are doing before you get your tools.
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I would check out the GPs and GP system you have first. If it goes away once heat is in the engine the timing probably isn't all that bad. It would be best to check it, but see what your GPs and GP relay, wiring, etc are doing before you get your tools.
Biggest problem is that I can run the engine hard, get it nice and hot then when I let it idle for several munutes (even have the fan cycle) when I start off again I get a puff that stays intil it "gets blown out" then no more until I let idle for a period of time again.
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If you are ever up my way, I'll give you a hand - I have all the tools required.
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I would check out the GPs and GP system you have first. If it goes away once heat is in the engine the timing probably isn't all that bad. It would be best to check it, but see what your GPs and GP relay, wiring, etc are doing before you get your tools.
Biggest problem is that I can run the engine hard, get it nice and hot then when I let it idle for several munutes (even have the fan cycle) when I start off again I get a puff that stays intil it "gets blown out" then no more until I let idle for a period of time again.
This is similar to what i have/had. Though not as bad as yours. Mine smokes a bit when it is being blown out for the first time after cold start or if I have been running around for a while without using the turbo. Still not entirely sure what it is as it still does it (less though) now I have advanced it slightly.
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I would check out the GPs and GP system you have first. If it goes away once heat is in the engine the timing probably isn't all that bad. It would be best to check it, but see what your GPs and GP relay, wiring, etc are doing before you get your tools.
Biggest problem is that I can run the engine hard, get it nice and hot then when I let it idle for several munutes (even have the fan cycle) when I start off again I get a puff that stays intil it "gets blown out" then no more until I let idle for a period of time again.
Timing. It needs to be advanced. Had the excat same problem, wouldn't smoke under driving conditions.. but would smoke a hellish cloud while idling. Timing was something stupid low, like 0.88mm or something... I bumped it up to 1.03mm and it has been running fine since October.
I know people hate to deal with Prothe, but besides his IP's.. he has great customer service.. lol
http://www.dieselvw.com/VWDieselTimingBeltTools.htm (http://www.dieselvw.com/VWDieselTimingBeltTools.htm)
I bought this exact product, and am very happy with the quality of the gauge and the cam and pump locks. For $72 (half the price of some gauges alone that I have seen) you can't really go wrong. I have timed 6 engines with these tools, they work flawlessly.
If the problem persists, after it has been running to operating temps.. its not the gp's... its timing.. Final Answer ;)
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If you are ever up my way, I'll give you a hand - I have all the tools required.
I appreciate the offer.
Summer and the good weather is coming so it sounds like a good excuse to load up the camper and flat tow the samurai!
Might take me a while before I can get up that way though...
I checked out "some random dude's" posts in the FAQ. Now I'm all worried about my headgasket...
It's leaking oil from, well, #1 cylinder below the exhaust port.
This block has only had the torque and the two twists done on the head bolts. Has not had the post heat and twist treatment. I could warm up the engine and twist again but am concerned about cracking the block (crap/oil in the bolt bottom) or breaking a bolt (shop may have reused head bolts. Don't know for sure)
I'm figuring out really quick the shop that did my rebuild is not all that concerned about the quality they pump out or standing behind their product.
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I would check out the GPs and GP system you have first. If it goes away once heat is in the engine the timing probably isn't all that bad. It would be best to check it, but see what your GPs and GP relay, wiring, etc are doing before you get your tools.
Biggest problem is that I can run the engine hard, get it nice and hot then when I let it idle for several munutes (even have the fan cycle) when I start off again I get a puff that stays intil it "gets blown out" then no more until I let idle for a period of time again.
This block has only had the torque and the two twists done on the head bolts. Has not had the post heat and twist treatment. I could warm up the engine and twist again but am concerned about cracking the block (crap/oil in the bolt bottom) or breaking a bolt (shop may have reused head bolts. Don't know for sure)
I'm figuring out really quick the shop that did my rebuild is not all that concerned about the quality they pump out or standing behind their product.
now with both of those posts I would say that the head gasket isn't sealed and you may be burning a little coolant. I think you should take a closer look at that HG for more symtoms. Call your shop and ask what they used to bolt the head on and go from there. Also, I would think that it isn't GPs if it does it when warm. See if you are loosing coolant too.
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LOOK MOM! No cold start lever...
Loosened the bolts on the pump and knocked it over a milimeter... Too much?
Seems to start a little better when cold. Dark out so I couldn't really see but seemed to be smoking black when accelerating on a cold engine.
Nothing like "by the seat of the pants" tuning ::)
Meh, what I had wasn't working so couldn't really go wrong...
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I've got the timing tools in Burnaby if you want to come by with it this weekend some time.
PM for contact info.
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PM sent! :D
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It was great meeting you Dave! Thanks again for your assistance! :D
I made it as far as kingsway and Gilley last night and had to pull over. Had this wierd smell of burning plastic. There was a gush of oil coming out of the valve cover and dribbling on the exhaust manifold causing the stink. I thought it was the gasket and tore into the extra one I had brought. As it turned out I had a couple loose studs that hold the valve cover on. Tightened them down, put the new gasket on, bought some oil and made it the rest of the way home.
We set the timing to 1.0mm. This is retarded to what it was set at. Not sure where it was as we were having difficulty getting it to read the existing setting. (I think it was way too far advanced to even get a reading)
What that really demonstrated to me is so long as your crank/cam timing is spot on there is a bit of play to be had in the pump timing and it will still run half decent.
Unfortunately despite working late into the night, all this work didn't resolve my smoke issue (nice and hot 7 min idle time, thick smoke out the tailpipe that hung in the air). It did change things though. and it will take me a while to figure it all out again. When I cranked it up this morning, I didn't fog out the street like I normally do when I drive it down the road cold. Then again I didn't reconnect the hose from the intake to the LDA when I did the roadside repair...
I still need to figure out what is "normal" and what's not. Dave cranked up his car for me last night and demonstrated what I thought was an abnormal start is actually normal... So here is fair warning to any older jetta owners in the lower mainland... If you see a silver samurai following you about with the driver staring intenly at your exhaust pipe, not to worry it's just me trying to get things sorted out... :)