VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: somolovitch3 on February 14, 2010, 08:04:35 am
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Okay, having read all four pages from search, HOW does one clean the area under/above the valves in the 1.6 head?
I steam cleaned the head after taking it apart, there is still crud in this area. Use a copper/brass cup wheel on a drill (1-1/4 inch size or smaller)? Some kind of sandpaper flapper thing? Or maybe a chemical cleaning agent?
Any and all info/help is apprectiated.
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I dissassembled the head and used a MEDIA, not sand, MEDIA blaster to remove all of the carbon and crap. the media is a specially designed round pellet/bead that doesn't take but surface dust etc, off of the surface that you want it to. Worked wonders, see the pics in my build thread if ya don't believe me.
kevin
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HOT TANK ,
Gee-Bee
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So were should one look to find media for blastin? I have a "blasting" unit.
Tank of hots costs $. :P
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Depending on the shop that does it, acid tanking shouldn't cost a fortune. You can buy media/bead, not sand, at hardware stores. I have three 100lb bags of sand for blasting but that isn't the right stuff, remember to wear breathing pro. don't want to wind up with silicosis. They usually are sold in grades mine was a med grade, however ask the guys in the store and I'm sure that they can help you better select the product for you.
Kevin
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The really sucky part is that I work 7:30 am to 6:00 pm (okay, that is the time away from home) and trying to get things to and then picked up from shop gets..................
I still have to get my mounts (with the new rubber {sortof} new, not rubber) back from that shop. Mon - Fri 8am to 4pm.
So ask at local hardware stores for ... will glass beading work? I know I can get that on the week end.
Thanks for all the help!
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Glass beading is somewhat easier on aluminum, due to the rounded particles, but it can still mess with sealing surfaces. Try oven cleaner & let it sit in there for a while. Once softened a bit, the carbonized crud may come flying outa there with Scotchbrite cookies on a die grinder or drill motor. Gloves n' goggles highly recommended!
As far as 'blasting' compounds, walnut shell media is supposed to do a good job without tearing up or even work-hardening the surface. These guys are not a great distance from you & do 'soda blasting' http://www.stewartspecialtyservices.com/ (http://www.stewartspecialtyservices.com/) They may have something for you.
Good luck on the project.
J.R.
SoCal
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Scotchbright cookies? ??? Avalable from the Girl Scouts? ::) Guessing 1" dia cutouts of the green pad?
Thanks for the help.
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(http://base1.googlehosted.com/base_media?q=http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/pto-ast-2spk_w.jpg&size=19&dhm=e756b3c&hl=en)
It is called rolocs. The maroon and blue are best for not harming the surface of aluminum. 2" are the most popular...I need to become a vendor and sell these to you guys:D
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Yeah, those things are awesome, need a die grinder with the right nose though, when rebuilding i use the soft ones "blue" to clean contact surfaces. Don't suggest these for inside the ports, I'm stickin with media, if you are smart, like I know you are, you will use a grinding compound and reseat your valves before you finish anyway to avoid sealing problems. ;)
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The forth and back on the valves is a given, just want to get the crud in the way of the in-ys and out-ys
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I'd actually try to find a plastic blasting media. It doesn't create any heat, doesn't pit anything. I've used it stripping paint off of panels and it would take bondo off, but you could still see scratching from ~80grit on the metal before they painted it. Doesn't create any heat, so panel warpage is non existent.
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Hot tanking like GB said works and is cheap, media blasting is also good. I don't like using flap wheels or scotch brite pads. They can be too abrasive and damage the surfaces on those little innies and outties.
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(http://base1.googlehosted.com/base_media?q=http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/pto-ast-2spk_w.jpg&size=19&dhm=e756b3c&hl=en)
It is called rolocs. The maroon and blue are best for not harming the surface of aluminum. 2" are the most popular...I need to become a vendor and sell these to you guys:D
Whizzy wheels!... those things are the $#!T for cleaning aluminum.
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Is this a good thing? And I would need something in the 1" range. Will be trying the oven cleaner...today? maybe latter this week.
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Okay did the oven cleaner last week. Took a couple or go rounds to get all the crud on the exaust side, but its "clean...er". No crud, but I am thinking maybe a little porty/polishy? Something to klean up that area between the "pocket" and the manufold. Always willing to entertaine new ideas...........(for $10 or less a plate). :o
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oven cleaner from the dollar store works the same as the expensive stuff, and is only $1 a can.
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Okay did the oven cleaner last week. Took a couple or go rounds to get all the crud on the exaust side, but its "clean...er". No crud, but I am thinking maybe a little porty/polishy? Something to klean up that area between the "pocket" and the manufold. Always willing to entertaine new ideas...........(for $10 or less a plate). :o
dont even worry about porting it unless you are going to pull the valves clear out of the head and do the entire port.
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Okay not porting per say, and valves are out. Just something to make area look ...nicer? Oven cleaner leaves behind little white spots/specks on aluminum. After reading sauerkraut's posts, I am thinkin some sort of flappy on drill. Maybe 200 grit?
Oh yeah, do buy oven cleaner at the doller store, along with totally awsome cleaner.
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what about a dremel motor and a honing stone to remove the cast flashing?
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what about a dremel motor and a honing stone to remove the cast flashing?
honing stone? why not just use the little sanding drums? those things make ports look amazing...
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Sanding drums? 1" dia with 100 grit and 1/8' shaft? The little short ones (maybe 1/2" tall) or the longer ones???? Hmmm..... looks like a trip to Harbor Freight may be in order. Might gets me a dremel tool while I am there.
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I have both a dremel knock off and an electric die grinder. I use the grinder stones only to remove flashing, I was understanding that the ports should remain a little rough for air the air to mix better.
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I have both a dremel knock off and an electric die grinder. I use the grinder stones only to remove flashing, I was understanding that the ports should remain a little rough for air the air to mix better.
With the IDI motors the prechamber takes care of all the turbulence you need. You can make the ports mirror finish if you like and it won't do anything negative. After a certain point there's not that much positive gain either, but unlike a TDI or a gasser you definitely won't harm anything by letting as much air in as possible.
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like this you mean ;D
(http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq108/MRTANGOMAN/firstdlhtchero132010024.jpg)
one inlet ported out to match the gskt and then polished...
I read somewhere that the exhaust port on turbo heads just needs cleaning and NOT making any bigger, to keep the exhaust gas speed up to help spool the turbo.
(un-less i'm going mad) ???
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keep going this is good info guys.
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This be what talking about. ::)
(http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg382/somolovitch3/HeadShots/Image008.jpg)
(http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg382/somolovitch3/HeadShots/Image002.jpg)
(http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg382/somolovitch3/HeadShots/Image006.jpg)
(http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg382/somolovitch3/HeadShots/Image007.jpg)
(http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg382/somolovitch3/HeadShots/Image004.jpg)
(http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg382/somolovitch3/HeadShots/Image005.jpg)
(http://i541.photobucket.com/albums/gg382/somolovitch3/HeadShots/Image003.jpg)
Now how to make pretty? ???
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My new AAZ head was sent off to Extrude a hone Plasma polishing, Cleaned it up like a Mirror inside
They still have my PD130 after I had it hot tanked cleaned for twenty dollars.
The only other way is a electric Hydrogen oven ( aerospace ) clean
GB
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like this you mean ;D
(http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq108/MRTANGOMAN/firstdlhtchero132010024.jpg)
one inlet ported out to match the gskt and then polished...
I read somewhere that the exhaust port on turbo heads just needs cleaning and NOT making any bigger, to keep the exhaust gas speed up to help spool the turbo.
(un-less i'm going mad) ???
Mine was done @ home using a dia grinder and then sanding wheel then a polishing mop ;)