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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: aidan on January 28, 2010, 12:31:50 am
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Anyone have a wiring diagram for the sender on a 1Y?
I'm wondering if its 4 pin as it has dual purpose, 2 pins for temperature gauge, 2 for for thermoswitch for glow plug controller?
Or is that wishful thinking?
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I couldn't figure this out on my AAZ either. I am thinking about switching to a MKI style neck so I can get a water temp.
If anyone has any idea I too would love to know.
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I'm going to guess, two are for the gauge and the other two are for ECM, or in your case, glow plug controller.
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http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1996/166/57/1974833/ (http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1996/166/57/1974833/)
Its number 10 on this, but as I have no AC, I have only one slot in the coolant flange. I have 2 browns in mine, I would guess thats a common supplied 12v? Guess the multimeter figures out the rest.
Am I right in thinking the glow unit side of it will stop passing current at 40 degrees?
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Only just noticed this is on the wiring diagram off the other thread - http://projectt4.t35.com/T25/1Yengine.pdf (http://projectt4.t35.com/T25/1Yengine.pdf)
And it appears different to what I was expecting. One sender on my current petrol engine supplies current to the autochoke until 35 degrees, ideal for powering the glowplug relay, this does not seem to work the same way.
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http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1996/166/57/1974833/ (http://www.vagcat.com/epc/cat/vw/GO/1996/166/57/1974833/)
Its number 10 on this, but as I have no AC, I have only one slot in the coolant flange. I have 2 browns in mine, I would guess thats a common supplied 12v? Guess the multimeter figures out the rest.
Am I right in thinking the glow unit side of it will stop passing current at 40 degrees?
remember, brown is ground, not positive.
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yep - two seperate senders in one package.
browns are two lives
blue/white is the glowplug thermoresistive sender (not a switch)
the other one is temp gauge sender.
I always run mine with the blue/white wire disconnected to improve warm/hot starting
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Well its no good for my use (and I think brown=live due to day job!), my existing wiring has a sensor applying 12v when ignition on until coolant is approx 55 degrees C, originally for the inlet manifold heater, and I intend to use this as a switch for the GP relay.
Not nearly as good as fitting the proper controller I know, but takes care of the 3-4 minute afterglow. Must remember not to sit in the car with ignition on but engine off for any period of time!
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put a switch on your glow plugs, that turns the power off, so you cant have them activate when you dont want them to.
i got tired of messing with the GP controller on my rabbit, so i rigged up a switch to the stock timer. now the glows operate when i want them to, not when they want.