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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: jack's lack on November 07, 2009, 01:17:44 pm
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Quick question, will the 1200º duplicolor high heat rattle can hold up if I spray my turbine housing and exhaust manifold with it?
Or should I just embrace the rust?
Thanks
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Give it a shot what's the worst that can happen?
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Good point, if it burns off I will only be out a few bucks and a few minutes of my time, and I already have the paint.
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NOPE CERAMIC COATING IS YOUR BEST OPTION ON THE EXHAUST, I DID THE HEAT SHEILD AND THE INTALE WITH SILVER POWDER COATING
Gpopshop does turbo housings in ceramic or polishing only...
Gee-Bee
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powder coat will take it.
The 1200 on the downpipe should hold up for a while as well.
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NOPE CERAMIC COATING IS YOUR BEST OPTION ON THE EXHAUST, I DID THE HEAT SHEILD AND THE INTALE WITH SILVER POWDER COATING
Gpopshop does turbo housings in ceramic or polishing only...
Gee-Bee
2 problems there. 1. I can't get the turbo apart. there is one bolt that I can't get anything other than an open ended wrench on and it is too tight and just wants to round off. I went at it for weeks with the pb blaster and a torch but no movement, so I give up. 2. I have spent way more $$ than I should have on this project and I do not have a couple hundred extra to get these pieces ceramic coated as nice as that would be. So I am going on the cheap for now. Maybe if I have some the $$ in a year or so I will go ahead and get them coated, for now it's the rattle can or nothing.
I fear the same issues may prevail with powder coating as well, but I will look into it. thanks for the suggestion.
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I rattle canned about the first foot of my DP a few months ago, now there's only about 6 inches of paint on it so it's getting burned off.........I think that paint is only for a couple seconds at a time of 1200F.
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I used BBQ paint for the manifold and turbine housing:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_mDxOuTI25gI/Sst3X41NBVI/AAAAAAAADG4/84yWrs6Vvf8/s800/IMG_4221.JPG)
No long-term results yet. It seems tough though, after painting it, I had to torch out one of the studs on the turbine housing, so sustained blasting directly from a torch didn't phase it. I think the can said 1500*.
I did the downpipe with the 1700* stuff and torched it after it tacked up to "bake" it on. We'll see how it holds.
Brendan
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I didn't want to give all my secrets away, ;) but powder coating will hold up. I have a shop about 15 minutes away and asked them to do a header. He is Amish and cheap and really had no clue what would happen. He baked it a little hotter maybe longer and no issues. My friend at a truck garage does every single exhaust piece for the Kenworths in black powder coat with no problems either.
About Amish and cheap he did my friends 4 Honda rims for 40.00
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Amish powder coating, that just sounds wrong. :)
I'll remember that though, I'll have some stuff that needs done before too long and I'm not too far away.
Brendan
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paint just burns off. i used 1200* header paint, and it just burned off. my turbo is just as rusty now as it ever has been.
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I have used the 1,200 and the hotter ones...if they burn off it will usually be just a little closest to the exhaust ports. I always put mine in the oven and baked them like they said to do as well. If you can't get yours off of the turbo and bake I don't know what kind of results you may have.
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You may have better results if you bake the part for a few hours before in-car use... Spray the parts, let them dry fully, the cure in an oven for half a day. (and seeing as how you're building the engine in the kitchen, shouldn't be a problem ;D) Of course, if you can find an Amish powder coater in Georgia, I'd go that way.
How do you tell which Amish guy is the mechanic?
He's the one with his arm up the horse's bum... :D
*edt* Jeeze, I should really read all previous posts first, huh? :-*
I'd also recommend the turbo blanket insulator, keeps your under-hood temps down nicely, and hides the hi-temp paint when it does start to flake off... Find them on Ebay. Two layers, an inner wrap, and an outer reflective layer. You wrap the hot section and sort of stitch it closed with SS safety wire.
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NOPE CERAMIC COATING IS YOUR BEST OPTION ON THE EXHAUST, I DID THE HEAT SHEILD AND THE INTALE WITH SILVER POWDER COATING
Gpopshop does turbo housings in ceramic or polishing only...
Gee-Bee
2 problems there. 1. I can't get the turbo apart. there is one bolt that I can't get anything other than an open ended wrench on and it is too tight and just wants to round off. I went at it for weeks with the pb blaster and a torch but no movement, so I give up. 2. I have spent way more $$ than I should have on this project and I do not have a couple hundred extra to get these pieces ceramic coated as nice as that would be. So I am going on the cheap for now. Maybe if I have some the $$ in a year or so I will go ahead and get them coated, for now it's the rattle can or nothing.
I fear the same issues may prevail with powder coating as well, but I will look into it. thanks for the suggestion.
I had that problem when taking appart a K24. Ended up grinding a 13mm wrench to make it fit.
The parts you are painting need to be rust free. Even if it can stand up to the heat, not many paints can stand up to rust. That means sandblasting. Painting over rust is a waste of money (except for por-15 or rustbullet but I doubt they have high temp paints).