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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Jay on August 31, 2009, 12:55:14 pm
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I went out today at about 6pm (don't know why I left it so late ??? ) to change the glow plugs, had a look and they seem to be in the most awkward position behind the IP, so I looked in the Bentley and can't find anything to say you need to move the IP to access the glow plugs.
Do we just have to struggle with a limited space or how do I move the IP without upsetting the timing?
SB engine code.
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you can squeeze in there w/o removing pump or lines. Most folks prefer to remove lines for additional space.
I use a box wrench with tape over the 'outside' end for removing the nut (buss bar), then a magnet for reinstalling the nut. A flanged nut helps alot. I also have used a bent wire to guide nut on. I have a pair of LONG (handle ~300mm) needle nose pliers that help, as well as a long handle (~160mm) 12mm wrench for removing the plug itself. I stick the plug between my outstretched fingers to guide it in.
a rubber hose works too (fuel line) (Slip hose over the end of the plug and use the hose as a 'flex-joint' to thread the plug in)
just some thoughts.
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Ah dammit, thought as much. Damn Germans.
I shall give it ago most likely Wednesday on my lunch hour as I need the self locking nuts apparently (I only have 2 on the bus bar at the moment :o ), so I'll order those from VW Oxford tomorrow and they should be in by Wednesday (all parts I've ordered from them thus far have arrived the next day, even on a Saturday after ordering after 2pm on a Friday ;D ) that's if they don't keep them in stock.
Let's hope I make it into work tomorrow and Wednesday because I 'broke down' twice on the way home this evening with the glow plug light flashing away... :-[ she pulled away fine after I stopped but the lights would flash on and off every few minutes.
Also could worn Glow plugs draw more current from the battery and cause the battery light to flicker while stationary?
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Do you have any symptoms that could be related to glow plugs besides the flashing light? IE starting problems?
There's a water separator on the Mk II's that has a connection to the glow plug light. It will cause the light to flash when there's water in the separator or when the separator has gone kaput...
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If you are changing the glow plugs or checking them do it right once. Just did this on my son's car yesterday and it took me about 45 mins total.
1. remove the four 8mm nuts with a gear wrench and a magnet.
2. remove the bus bar and toss it away!!
3. remove the two glowplugs behind the pump
4. Cut 4 pieces of heavy #10 gauge wire and crimp on small eye terminals on each end.
5. Slide the eye on the glow plugs you have removed and tighten the 8 mm nut up by hand. Leave it lose enough so that the glow plug can spin
5. Drop the two glow plugs down behind the pump, guiding them in with the wire you have installed on them. Hold a screwdriver against the end of the glow plug to put a little pressure on the plug and then use a 12 mm wrench to thread in the glow plugs for the two removed.
6. The #3 and #4 glow plugs can have the eyes slid over and the nuts installed.
7. Use a small bolt and nut to join the 4 eyes terminals together with the eye terminal that comes from the fuse box on the firewall.
Now when you think you have a glow plug issue, remove the bolt and separate the glow plug wires and check the ohms of each plug in just a few moments. Two replace the two behind the injection pump, loosen the 8 mm nut only a little, and then use a 12mm wrench to loosen the glow plug. The eye terminal will allow the glow plug to spin if you loosen it just a bit. Pull the wire out with the glow plug. Slide it back in the same way. Both glow plugs can be changed in under 5 minutes from behind the pump this way.
I use a 12mm gear wrench only because it is faster.
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Do you have any symptoms that could be related to glow plugs besides the flashing light? IE starting problems?
The car won't start and keep running this morning, The only way to keep it running is to keep my foot on the throttle a bit, as soon as I take my foot off the throttle the plug light starts flashing a bit then then car dies.
I'm just looking for info on how to remove the metal fuel lines at the mo because the ends of the fuel lines on the injectors are stuck on, so if I can't find any info in the Bentley I'm going out there with a mallet and a 17mm spanner ;D
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Thank you for the tips, muchos appreciated, I will hook up the DIY glow plug circuit another time.
Eventually got her sorted! jeez, it really is a tight squeeze and it doesn't help having big hands ;D
I hadn't tightened up the fuel line to #2 injector properly so when I cranked her over (took a few times to disperse the air in the lines) and I pressed the 'go peddle' a load of fuel came out of it oops :-[ I had to take off the fuel line for #1 & #3 because I only had a mini monkey wrench to undo the fuel lines which made it harder than it should have been. I'll have to get a proper 17mm spanner now.
got into work 4 & 1/2 hours late :o ;D oh well.
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hmm ok, on the way home I gave the old girl a bit more throttle and the glow plugs light started flashing ??? they may have also flashed a small amount after starting and driving down the road, but the sun set and sun in my eyes kinda prevented me from seeing it if it was happening or my imagination...
I thought glow plugs were only needed while the car was being started, so why would it do this?
Would it be something like the cylinder I used an old plug for (I dropped 1 of the new plugs and it's stuck right down under the IP between it and the block...)
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hmm ok, on the way home I gave the old girl a bit more throttle and the glow plugs light started flashing ??? they may have also flashed a small amount after starting and driving down the road, but the sun set and sun in my eyes kinda prevented me from seeing it if it was happening or my imagination...
I thought glow plugs were only needed while the car was being started, so why would it do this?
Would it be something like the cylinder I used an old plug for (I dropped 1 of the new plugs and it's stuck right down under the IP between it and the block...)
You will not have the problems with the GP flickering after you Pimp your GP. :-)
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I think I will be doing that on the weekend after getting some other useful tools I should have already had tbh (8mm & 12mm glow plug spanner, one size on each end, 17mm spanner and a small magnet )
I never had the problem with the GP light until the other night when if I floored it suddenly the lights would flicker and she would loose all power, but still idle, I figured it was the glow plugs because the light was flickering.
I will defo do this 'mod' 8)
Any decent pics of the mod?
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I had a flickering glow plug light while driving also. I learned (from this forum) that it's the water in fuel sensor misbehaving. I traced out the wiring for the sensor at the dash, isolated that wire and zapped it with 120 vac and that fixed it! Glow plug light now works as it should. ;D
Hmmn, what year /engine is your car? If the engine is cutting out on you and the glow plug light is also a WIF light, you may want to check for water in your fuel before anything else.
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From our FAQ section, http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=12413.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=12413.0)
and it points to http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=28 (http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=28)
I used a VW GP relay on my Caravan conversion with an illuminated toggle switch to feed a toggle you have to hold down to activate the relay. I also have a red lamp on the dash powered by the junction of the 4 GP wires and the feed line from the relay. Works very well.
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lovely 8)
thanks.
also thinking about this now, when I first got the car it broke down having 'air bubbles' in the system, could excess water in the water separator & thus fuel look like air bubbles?
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Ah dammit, thought as much. Damn Germans.
I shall give it ago most likely Wednesday on my lunch hour as I need the self locking nuts apparently (I only have 2 on the bus bar at the moment :o ), so I'll order those from VW Oxford tomorrow and they should be in by Wednesday (all parts I've ordered from them thus far have arrived the next day, even on a Saturday after ordering after 2pm on a Friday ;D ) that's if they don't keep them in stock.
Let's hope I make it into work tomorrow and Wednesday because I 'broke down' twice on the way home this evening with the glow plug light flashing away... :-[ she pulled away fine after I stopped but the lights would flash on and off every few minutes.
Also could worn Glow plugs draw more current from the battery and cause the battery light to flicker while stationary?
I wouldn't attempt something as tedious as that on a lunch hour. Usualy when you are limited to a certain amount of time to get something like this done it never works. You might get the old one out and run out of time before you get the new one in and have to drive home with 3 cyl. and possibly some damage besides ???
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gawd dammit. since I changed the GP's I could smell a bit of diesel when I've got the cold/warn air blowers on inside the cabin, I had a look last night and the fuel return line on injector #2 looks like it's leaking :(
Do the return lines have much pressure running through them and will a cable tie be enough to hold a new one in place or will it stay on with a push?
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A little update on the saga...
Ordered 1m of fuel hose for the fuel return line
8x 8mm nuts for the glow plugs
the OEM bolt for the alternator top mounting bracket as the other ones I had are pitiful mild steel and bend and snap!
Less than £10 for the lot ;D
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A little update on the saga...
Ordered 1m of fuel hose for the fuel return line
8x 8mm nuts for the glow plugs
the OEM bolt for the alternator top mounting bracket as the other ones I had are pitiful mild steel and bend and snap!
Less than £10 for the lot ;D
Great ! Are you going to Pimp your GP ? :-D I like buying stainless steel bolts to replace my general hardware - it will never rust and it is stronger than straight steel. Here the cost is not too high.
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I will do when I find a place that does a starter solenoid that can take 50A for more than 30 seconds, not had a look for one yet but I think I know of a place that *might* do them locally. I'll pop in there on Saturday morning on the way to VW Oxford and see what they have 8)
I think no matter what goes wrong we still love our little dubs and gives us a reason to tinker ;D
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I will do when I find a place that does a starter solenoid that can take 50A for more than 30 seconds, not had a look for one yet but I think I know of a place that *might* do them locally. I'll pop in there on Saturday morning on the way to VW Oxford and see what they have 8)
I think no matter what goes wrong we still love our little dubs and gives us a reason to tinker ;D
If you don't have a good VW GP solenoid, most of the 1975 - 1985 Ford's have one - maybe older. The 76 Grand Torino and 76 Ford Pinto had these as did many more from Ford. Here, most of the parts dealers require you to tell them what the part is on so they can lookup the part number and find your part.
(http://i533.photobucket.com/albums/ee338/the_arb/solenoid.jpg)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?skuDescription=Gold+/+Solenoid+Switch&categoryDisplayName=Starting+%26+Charging&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=184962_0_2399_&productId=184962&sortType=&parentId=64-0&filterByKeyWord=solenoid&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=16400102&categoryNValue=16499999&fromWhere=&itemId=102-0&displayName=Solenoid+Switch&store=2165&searchText=solenoid&brandName=Gold (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?skuDescription=Gold+/+Solenoid+Switch&categoryDisplayName=Starting+%26+Charging&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=184962_0_2399_&productId=184962&sortType=&parentId=64-0&filterByKeyWord=solenoid&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=16400102&categoryNValue=16499999&fromWhere=&itemId=102-0&displayName=Solenoid+Switch&store=2165&searchText=solenoid&brandName=Gold)
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gawd dammit. since I changed the GP's I could smell a bit of diesel when I've got the cold/warn air blowers on inside the cabin, I had a look last night and the fuel return line on injector #2 looks like it's leaking :(
Do the return lines have much pressure running through them and will a cable tie be enough to hold a new one in place or will it stay on with a push?
there is probably 1/4 of a psi in the return lines from the injectors.
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gawd dammit. since I changed the GP's I could smell a bit of diesel when I've got the cold/warn air blowers on inside the cabin, I had a look last night and the fuel return line on injector #2 looks like it's leaking :(
Do the return lines have much pressure running through them and will a cable tie be enough to hold a new one in place or will it stay on with a push?
there is probably 1/4 of a psi in the return lines from the injectors.
Humm, I never thouhgt of a cable tie. When the lines are new, they don't need anything. I've seen some with metal bands crimped around them. When I replaced one of mine, I took a piece of 0.035" stainless steel welding wire and rapped it twice and twisted it like a bread bag tie. Works great. If your lines are all clear, and your tank will be sucking air through the vent to make-up the lost volume from what's going out.
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thanks guys.
I've got a bunch of jubilee clips that I could use to be *safe*.
I went to the local auto shop on the way home and they had no after market starter solenoids :( I'll try another one tomorrow or Saturday.
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I went to the local auto shop on the way home and they had no after market starter solenoids :( I'll try another one tomorrow or Saturday.
The auto shops here are the same way - ask for an aftermarket solenoid and the answer is no. Ask for a 1976 Ford Pinto solenoid, and you get your part on the spot.
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Sorted the return fuel line issue and noticed I'll have to re-do the rocker cover gasket because when my brother in law was doing the nuts up he over tightened them and now oil is leaking again >:(
I'll have words with him tomorrow!
I also noticed I don't have a water seperator ??? I followed the fuel lines all the way back to the fuel tank and noticed 4 threads pointing down from the underside of the car under the passenger seat, I'm guessing this is where it would mount, so I drained a bit of liquid from the fuel filter. on the way home I'll give her a blast and see if the GP light flickers or not.
Just read on vortex that we shouldn't need one nowdays as the quality of the fuel has increased etc etc... so I guess I'll just have to drain the fuel filter now and then.
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yea, we all have to drain our filters from time to time. its part of owning a diesel. they dont burn water/glycerin/gunk too well...
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I went to the local auto shop on the way home and they had no after market starter solenoids :( I'll try another one tomorrow or Saturday.
The auto shops here are the same way - ask for an aftermarket solenoid and the answer is no. Ask for a 1976 Ford Pinto solenoid, and you get your part on the spot.
Nice tip arb, I'll keep that in mind
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Even though I drained my fuel filter (not completely) I still got the GP/WIF light flickering while giving her a blast on the way home :(
This is really starting to annoy me, any other thoughts on what it could be?
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Think I've cured the flickering WIF/GP light ;D
- Changed the Rocker Cover gasket again and told my brother in law that he's a idjiot for tightening the nuts up too tight
- Trimmed off the old clamped/worn fuel hose that goes onto the fuel filter
- Tried to fit the alternator bracket mount bolt VW gave me... it's not the correct one so 'bodged' it with a nut and thread lock :-X
- Got moaned at by an old lady "This isn't a repair shop you know! everytime you come here you are always doing something to your car" - orly?!
- Drained a bit more fluid out the fuel filter, althought it all looked like diesel anyway.
I gave her a blast between my mothers town and mine - no WIF light 8)
Let's hope it's sorted now!
oh and I'll pimp my GP's soon, once I find a place near here that will do a 50amp starter solenoid, cheaply.