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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: SolarSteve on July 11, 2009, 11:57:53 am
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I got the car started last night and I have spent most of today stopping leaks. I now have all the leaks stopped expt for the $**$#%***%##% (every swearword imaginable) valve cover. I tried a rubber one and it pissed out the rear side of the V/C. I tried a cork one, which I cleaned all surfaces and then wiped down with rubbing alcohol and then laid a 1/8 bead of RTV on the head, installed the gasket, then another 1/8 of RTV on the gasket and then the V/C. It still leaks out the rear side.
Tuesday the local shop will have more gaskets. I am planning on buying 2 over them and stacking them with RTV on the head, inbetween each gasket and then on the top of the top gasket. Its either that or I lay a 1/2 bead of "Right Stuff" directly to the head and not use a gasket and install the V/C. If it seals after that I will probably never get it off again.
Anyone have any ideas why this thing won't seal???
Thanks
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:o.. Have you tried another valve cover for poops and giggles???
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Bent valve cover?
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Did you let the RTV fully cure 24 hours?
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I couldn't get the cork to ever seal with my old N/A valve cover without putting the gasket shellac on it and letting that hold it. My valve cover was bent and I had to go around with the vice to straighten it up and then with a punch on problem spots. After that the rubber one held everytime...did you replace the studs when changed to the rubber? the places that hold the cork in place will not let it seal, also if you don't have the ringed studs AND a problem with the valve cover it won't want to stay in place and leak.
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did you replace the studs when changed to the rubber
... and did your rubber one come from He Who Shall Not Be Named??!!! ;-)
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If who I got the ruber gasket from, He Who Shall Not Be Named is the Miata guy (Dieselvw.com) then yes, thats where I got it from. It did not come with new studs, I just the ones that were sticking out of the head. I let the RTV cure for about 15 minutes which is as long as I have always let RTV cure for on V/C's
I am considering using the V/C from my spare motor, but it looks to be in worse shape than the one I am using now. I can't really tell if the current V/C is bent/warpped. Due to the lip that goes all the way around, it seems like it would be difficult to check for straightness and/or straighten.
Normally I would only use a dab of RTV at the junction of the orange rubber piece that goes over the cam on the Pass side. But with this V/C, in the past, I had to RTV the entire way around to get it to seal.
What's the concensus on using 2 cork gaskets?
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Personally I think 2 cork gaskets are just asking for 2 times the problems. I would keep the rubber with the steel core gasket and get some M6-1.0x30mm studs and seal it good. The shouldered studs are no good and I have never liked the cork on these engines for the valve cover.
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If who I got the ruber gasket from, He Who Shall Not Be Named is the Miata guy (Dieselvw.com) then yes, thats where I got it from. It did not come with new studs.
I asked because we've seen the no-name ones leak before.
The name-brand OEM ones, like those made by Victor Reintz, come with the required shoulderless studs needed to make the rubber gasket seal properly.
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/valvecovergasket.jpg)
$13.55 at GAP.
In terms of using the cork gasket, it's important to follow the factory torque, which is a pretty low value (10 NM, 87 inch-lbs). Anything more distorts the cork and then it will likely leak. A straight VC with a new cork gasket and the proper torque will likely seal fine, although lots of folks back it up with a very light smear of RTV and a slight dab at the corners by the cam sprocket as other folks above have mentioned.
In terms of your RTV issue.. I personally allow a minimum of overnight to let it set up properly in an airless environment (like squished between two pieces of metal).
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I've always liked to use 3M contact cement {Yellow Snot} as most mechanics call it, to hold the gasket to the valve cover, oil pan or what ever part that that needs removed now and then as it helps the gasket stay in place on the removeable part. And a little RTV or whatever on the other side. Obviously your studs are too long and or the valve cover itself is warped.
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If who I got the ruber gasket from, He Who Shall Not Be Named is the Miata guy (Dieselvw.com) then yes, thats where I got it from. It did not come with new studs.
I asked because we've seen the no-name ones leak before.
The name-brand OEM ones, like those made by Victor Reintz, come with the required shoulderless studs needed to make the rubber gasket seal properly.
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/valvecovergasket.jpg)
$13.55 at GAP.
In terms of using the cork gasket, it's important to follow the factory torque, which is a pretty low value (10 NM, 87 inch-lbs). Anything more distorts the cork and then it will likely leak. A straight VC with a new cork gasket and the proper torque will likely seal fine, although lots of folks back it up with a very light smear of RTV and a slight dab at the corners by the cam sprocket as other folks above have mentioned.
In terms of your RTV issue.. I personally allow a minimum of overnight to let it set up properly in an airless environment (like squished between two pieces of metal).
OK, I just orderd a rubber gasket with the replacement suds from GAP. They have not told me when it will arrive yet, so in the meantime I think I am going to pick up 1 cork gasket ($6) locally and try the V/C from the spare motor just because I really need to get this car going and if that holds I will change it out with the rubber one if/when I do the 1000 mile retorque.
Can anyone give me some guidance on how you determined a V/C is bent/warpped and how to fix it?
Thanks
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Can anyone give me some guidance on how you determined a V/C is bent/warpped and how to fix it?
Thanks
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Over tightening over many years leads to leaks. Reason is distorted valve cover. Hold up to light. Correct wit a flat hammer on a piece of girder etc. Oil filler caps also bleed oil after a while...
(http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1064/imgp2967valvecoverdistortioncr.jpg) (http://img190.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imgp2967valvecoverdistortioncr.jpg)
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You guys really hit the nail on the head!!
Last night when I got home I pulled the V/C and checked it. It was bent/warpped. Also, all the RTV I used caused the gasket to slip past the sealing surfaces causing my leak. So I got a straight piece of steel and started to hammer it flat. I cleaned the head and the V/C and installed a cork gasket over the studs. I made sure that the gasket fit snuggly around the shims on the studs and intalled it with only a dab of RTV at the corners of the orange seal. I gently snugged the bolts down and started it. NO LEAKS!!
Thank you very much for your help!!
Now on to my next problem!! Its in a new topic in this catagory!
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Congrats!!!! Ain't it amazing what can be fixed with a hammer?? ;D
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Congrats!!!! Ain't it amazing what can be fixed with a hammer?? ;D
Yeah! its the hammer that usually gets me trouble!! ;D
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Yeah that happens too.. I believe it's in Trango Shift Kit instructions they use the line "Strike smartly". Good advice!! That is if you read it in time... ;D