VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: dieselsmoke on April 29, 2009, 10:49:12 am
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Does anyone have a link they can post as to what type of boost control to use for the K14 turbo. It has that metal line that has to be cut in order to instal the control to increase the boost.
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I just cut a little piece out of the metal line and Teed in a humidifier valve I got at Home Depot... 2 turns = 1 PSI increase. About $4 in parts... :D
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how has that valve held up with the heat from the turbo? What did you use to tee the valve to the metal lines with? Do you have a pic of your setup??
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I would be interested in this as well...
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Valve has been totally fine - it's a brass needle valve. I used a couple short pieces of nylon tubing along with a brass tee, it's been on there now for about 8 months with no problems.
I'll try and get a couple pics - it's really so simple it's not even funny. It more or less came down to what bits and pieces Rona or wherever it was had that would do the job. Too dark for photos now!
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Looking forward to your DYI also !
Am new to TD, have been running
the venerable 1.6D for two decades but decided
to uprade to a 1.9TD / K14 in my MKII Jetta.
Will be lining up a boost gauge and pyromete also.
Any links to the above would be very appretiated !
Hugh
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Keep bugging me, I'll snap some shots soon!! Today was warm and sunny which had me out on my bike instead of playing "car"... :D
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I am also interested as to what people are using for their boost gauge and EGT gauge. Do you have to get a certain EGT gauge that is paired with a certain egt sensor? How have people been mounting their gauges in their cars? Also, would those manual boost valves on ebay for like 10-20 dollars work to control boost? How do you attach the vaccum line for teh boost control to the metal line, would a gear clamp hold it on????
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...bugging you for pics / how-to's ;D
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RIGHT!!
I'll be working on the car today so I'll shoot some pics then!!
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got those pics?
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yeah I need to see it now too.
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Ok ok... been between here and Atlanta for the last 2 weeks, but got the pics...
First the obligatory "Hello" to Jezebel:
(http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs152.snc1/5680_128925336426_730036426_3588675_709524_n.jpg)
This is the boost controller itself:
(http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs132.snc1/5680_128925391426_730036426_3588678_3728678_n.jpg)
All I did was cut about an inch out of the steel tube about where it had a 90-degree bend. I found some nylon tubing at Home Depot or whatever that slips over top of the cut off steel line - it may well leak a bit but that's the goal here! The brass 'T' is in place of the bend in the hard line - you could of course find some fittings that fit the hard line perfectly, but this is what I did...
(http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs152.snc1/5680_128925371426_730036426_3588677_7852008_n.jpg)
Valve is a humidifier needle valve. Very fine adjustment - takes a couple turns to go up 1 PSI.
(http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs132.snc1/5680_128925416426_730036426_3588679_5661191_n.jpg)
That's my baby!
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Thanks for the pics Byan, now I'm even more confused ;)
What does the needle valve do exactly ?
The needle valve seems to be away from the pluming,
being T-ed off and not in line so to speak.
You mention leakage, does it act like a bleeder ?
Please educate me !
;D
Hugh
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Exactly - it's a bleeder...
The stock wastegate opens at about 10 PSI. There isn't much adjustability built in to the KKK's factory wastegate - maybe 1 or 2 PSI but by that point you're flattening the springs inside it.
So what we need to do is find a way to "hide" some of the boost pressure from the wastegate. There's lots of different ways to do this - you can get an expensive electronic boost controller that opens and closes a valve based on pressure, you can get a granger style valve that "pops" open at a certain pressure, or you can bleed off some of the pressure.
I personally didn't need an electronic controller since I pretty much just wanted to set it and leave it alone - I'm not driving competitively. The KKK turbos with this setup actually have a bleeder internally too - there's a hollow tube sticking out the end of the wastegate can, this bleeds off some air providing a cooling airflow to the wastegate can. If you use the a boost controller design that completely blocks boost then you're eliminating this airflow. I think a lot of people have done it, but I always figure the engineers put it there for some reason in the first place. In contrast a lot of the Garret turbos appear to have a separate line for this purpose, so their engineers thought it was needed too but chose a different way to do it.
So I went with this design. I can regulate how much boost I'm bleeding off using the humidifier valve - open it more and we let more pressure out, thereby reducing the apparent pressure at the wastegate, thereby delaying when the wastegate will open. Close it more and you bleed off less boost, and the wastegate will open closer to its stock setting.
I doubt you can go much over 15-18 PSI with this setup - you'll hit a point where you're bleeding off so much air you just won't be able to get enough pressure to open the wastegate. I've turned mine up as high as 16.5 PSI but I knocked it back down to about 15 exactly - I don't have an intercooler yet so there's no real point to pushing more boost than that.
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Awsome reply Bryn, thanks man !
Looks like we are at about the same level of set-up.
I'll be going for an intercooler once I get the pyrometer and boost guage installed.
I'll be setting up a 3 guage console mount.
Besides EGT and boost, what other guage would you recommend for monitoring
the engine ? I'll start playing around with settings once I get all the above together.
I've also T'ed off the crankcase vent last night to keep those hot oily gases out of the intake and turbo. Venting to atmoshere for now under engine near the steering rack.
Another unrelated recent mod was to put a weuight on the shifter relay rod, used a 7/8" mild steel rod
drilled 5/16" through center, cut in half and welded shut over the rod. Shifts nice.
Is the wieghted shift rod off an MKIII compaible with a MKII ?
Pics of the set-up coming in next couple days.
Thanks much, keep in touch.
Hugh
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Oil pressure gauge would be the other big one IMHO... Idiot lights suck.
The SAE paper on the VW TD's actually says that they vent the oily crankcase gasses back in to the intake on purpose - the oil provides valve seat and upper cylinder lubrication that wouldn't be there otherwise. Apart from the runaway potential I don't think they do any harm.
I think they're compatible, but check 4crawler for more details on that: http://4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/index.shtml
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Thanks again, was debating wether to vent / burn 50/50.
I made a removable plug inside the intake side of the T.
I'll remove it tomorrow. Was just concerned about the smelly exhaust.
I may be getting some blowby / oil consumption.
Haven't narrowed down the source yet :-\
Anyhow the idea was to remove heat from the intake.
What do the interooled crowd do about venting their crankcase?
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Has anyone tried one of these??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BOOST-CONTROL-BLEED-VALVE-TURBO-CHEVY-GMC-DODGE-TRUCK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3a4b0844ccQQitemZ250366936268QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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most people use a ball bearing with a spring behind it so it hides the boost, then the ball pops open, blowing the wastegate open. because just because a wastegate is fully open at 10 psi, it is also starting to open a tiny bit as low as somethng like 3 psi. you dont want your wastegate coming open until right when the desired boost is reached, then it opens quickly at the set pressure.
btw, just search DIY boost controller. or something like that. and you will find a page on the internet about building a boost controller for about 5 bucks.
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This was where i got the ideas for the ones i have made in the past, i just use better hardware. Works tops ;D
http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
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YUP! same page i used, but again, used better pieces and building techniques.
works great tho after you get it built.