VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: dieselsmoke on April 13, 2009, 06:57:44 pm
-
I have been looking through the forums but I can't find it. I know there is a mod you can do to the alternater with a tdi clutched pulley. Does anyone know the vw part number for this part? My car is a 1.9 AAZ engine with a/c and p/s. Thanks!
-
I did this mod. It worked amazing. I don't remember the part# but I can see if I can find it anywhere or read what it says on the pulley. It was expensive. It cost over $200 with tax at the stealer. I'm actually working on doing another now and need the # again too.
-
Here is the link with the post. It has a part # too.
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15010&highlight=
-
This thread has the part #:
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=15010
-
sweet! Thanks !!
Has anyone tried those 2 different pulleys that were mentioned in that post to see if the cheaper one would work? Also, is there any place that would sell that spline tool??
-
Are the shafts for the alternators the same size for the 70 amp 90 amp and 120 amp? I think I have the 90 amp since I have a/c.
-
Cheaper one *won't* work (wrong offset), pretty sure the shaft sizes are the same, and please put your location in your profile so someone can refer you to a vendor that makes sense for your spot in the world!
-
sorry about the location thing, that has been fixed.
so part number 022 903 119C will not work and part # 028 903 119 AA will work , correct?
I believe altrom carries that part so I will give them a call and see how much they charge for that part. Is there a special bolt or locking washer that is used to hold the pulley on?? Should I be putting locktite on the bolt so it dosen't come off? What size of bolt was used? I have another 90 amp alternator that is out of the car so I can install it on that one and then put it into the car.
I can't believe vw sold the car with out this pulley on it. I recently changed my tensioner for the serpintine belt because the old one seized up putting too much pressure on the belt causing it to break. I guess with that extra pressure it prevented the belt from bouncing and the noise. I put this new tensioner in and I thought that there was something wrong with it only to find out that this belt bounce and noise is normal with a properly working tensioner. If this clutched pully fixes the problem I will be buying another one for my other 94 aaz 1.9 jetta.
-
where can one get the spline tool??? Is there a part number for it??
-
Metalnerd is a common supplier of that specific splined tool... now that we know you're Canadian, eh, here's a good Canadian supplier of their stuff:
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/roseland/AutoTools.htm
-
thanks for the link vincent! Are they a reputable company to buy from??
Also, the bolt that you used to hold the clutch pulley on, what size was it? Did you use a locking washer with it? Was locktite needed?
-
Sorry where is the spline tool on that online store posted ^^^
-
This thread should answer your questions regarding alternator clutch pullies on 1.9 TDs: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4323099.
And yes, Roseland Technical is very reputable. I have dealt with him on a few occasions and have always been satisfied...fast shipping, correct orders, decent price etc. He sells stuff from Altrom as well including the clutch pulley.
As for the last question the spline tool is 3/4 of the way down the list...MN3400SET.
-
thanks for the link vincent! Are they a reputable company to buy from??
Also, the bolt that you used to hold the clutch pulley on, what size was it? Did you use a locking washer with it? Was locktite needed?
The bolt's actually quite optional... I did it since the early pulleys had a slight habit of seizing, which might make it spin off the shaft.
The later versions don't seem to have this problem, and as delivered from the factory standard VW alternators have no additional locking mechanism on the pulley... it just spins onto the shaft and tightens down.
-
Sorry where is the spline tool on that online store posted ^^^
His catalog is "representative" of what he can source... he'll know exactly what you're after when you contact him directly.
If you google for Metalnerd you'll find their on-line catalog, including their spline tools.
-
Once this modification is done, do you still need to fix the crank pulley to prevent the key from being stripped or will this upgrade prevent that from happening?
-
Here's what I'm planning to do, since I don't have the spline tool, or access to it ('97 AAZ w/AC).
My alt has a T-50 recess in the shaft, so I plan to use my 3/8" impact tool to loosen/remove the retaining nut (turn shaft CW, while holding nut). Note: measure offset of original pulley, to ensure the replacement fits properly. It might even be wise to 'clearance' the shaft to start with. Fit new pulley hand tight and verify offset. Use a 'strap wrench' as if trying to turn pulley CW ( the way it drives), set impact tool (or drill/driver) for CCW, (moderate torque), and tighten. This should tighten the pulley sufficiently to keep it in place. The spline tool will be required, should you have to remove the pulley. You might want to check with your local dealer or alternator rebuilder, to see if they have the spline tool, in case you have to remove the pulley to clearance the shaft, as noted by Libbybapa.
-
I've got a complete TDI clutched alternator, should i swap that into my IDI engine?
How exactly do these clutches help the strain?
Ryan
-
On one alternator, to which I added the clutch pulley, I needed to clearance the shaft of the alternator just past the threads another 1/8" in order for the pulley to properly seat against the step in the shaft. It was not hard to do. You will also need the special spline tool that allows you to loosen and tighten the pulley.
Just how exactly did you 'Clearance' the shaft? Spin the shaft CW while holding a file against it?
-
Any estimate of width x depth removed? Does it take you right up to the shoulder? I can see where you would have to have the spline tool to remove the freewheel pulley, but I think my method of tightening it would work fine. The problem would occur if you had to remove it for further clearancing.
-
So, what you're doing is allowing the pulley threads to travel beyond the shaft threading, so the pulley will seat properly?
-
Should be easy. Use the inside tips of a vernier caliper to measure the threads of the pulley and the outside tips to ensure the shaft is slightly smaller all the way to the shoulder.
-
OK, now I understand. It's just a matter of how far they go, not that they need to go all the way, and some go farther than others. Easy to correct, if one has the correct threading die.
-
Now that I understand how it goes together, it should be easy to check with a depth guage, and clearance before before fitting, if required. You've only had one that needed modification?