VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: vwt4 on November 25, 2008, 05:31:41 pm
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The more I look at this mess, the more I think Im going to end up needing a new engine :cry: I will know for sure when I get the crank bolt off hopefully tomorrow to see why the timing has slipped...(the belt and tensioner were fine but I couldnt turn the engine over fully enough to check marks at tdc)
if the keyway is fine I will be shocked!!
Take a look at these pictures please guys....the inlet valves have contacted all pistons to some degree.... Piston 2 is only a carbon mark, the same for 3 and 4 surprisingly. Ive since cleaned the pistons and there is no imprint damage to 2,3 or 4.
But piston 1 is the one that has damage. It has an actual imprint of the valve about 1mm deep!!! and there is a raised lip of iron around the edge of the valve imprint.
Im not sure whether to de burr the edge and (if the crank is ok) rebuild with a rebuilt/new head.
Or full stripdown or new bottom end which I really cant afford the time or cost to do at the minute. Especially as I hav a 1z conversion planned early next year.
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/AC-PB240516.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/AC-PB250519.jpg)
The bottom end turns over sweetly and theres no visible conrod damage (TDC and TC piston height measurements are all the same) so my only concern is hidden conrod or piston damage or there being a problem with squish seeing as there is a new imprint in the piston that breaks in to the exhaust valve recess
What r your thoughts guys.
Is it new piston time?
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I posted in your other thread already but here ya go again.
If the ring land isn't deformed and the piston it's self looks good once you get it out I say run it.
I've seen some pretty bad pistons come out of running engines.
Smooth the damage as much as possible and take some pics of the piston for us to see.
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I posted in your other thread already but here ya go again.
If the ring land isn't deformed and the piston it's self looks good once you get it out I say run it.
I've seen some pretty bad pistons come out of running engines.
Smooth the damage as much as possible and take some pics of the piston for us to see.
Thanks Dan :D
Ive replied to the other thread more thoroughly.
I was getting a bit worried as there was no replies to the latest dilemma and I badly need to pick a repair route and follow it tomorrow as I need the beast back on the road!
I will indeed smooth the damage as much as possible and take some pictures afterwards.
As per the other thread, Im not planning on removing the piston unless absolutely necessary because the van is parked outside in a poor place for engine removal!! Also, its blimmin arctic here at present.
Though if it has to come out...it will :D
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If the ring land isn't deformed and the piston it's self looks good once you get it out I say run it.
I've seen some pretty bad pistons come out of running engines.
Smooth the damage as much as possible and take some pics of the piston for us to see.
X2
I've seen some gnarly pistons come out of running cars. It's amazing they hadn't bent the rods. I think if you smooth out the lips, and check the valves for bends (by lapping them and checking runout), you should be able to do it on the cheap. If all you really need is a running car, then it can't hurt to try reusing the pisons.
If you wanted to go crazy, then I'd say it could be a good time to revamp the head with some new guides, seals, seat-cut, and new exhaust valves (the intakes rarely need replacement). All that here in the US would set someone back about $250-300 USD. Not sure what it would cost in the UK.
Either way, good luck
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Mine were like that in my GTD, quick clean up and all was good:)
used those in the 120bhp engine and it was just dandy :D
nice to hear brom another Brit by the way :)
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my pistons have those too. I agree completely, smooth out the edges best you can without removing too much material and don't worry about it.
sand it with a dremel if you have one?
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my pistons have those too. I agree completely, smooth out the edges best you can without removing too much material and don't worry about it.
sand it with a dremel if you have one?
I have a dremel smokey eddy and that is what I was going to try it with :)
Cant think of anything else that will make it possible? a hand file would take hours and hours Im guessing! Wiill update you guys shortly
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I think you may find a hand file works well... it's a nice flat planar surface and the piston material is actually quite soft.
About one minute each with a file on these bad boys cleaned em right up:
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/piston_with-imprint.jpg)
All you want to do is clean off the material that's squished up... flat file makes it quick.
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I think you may find a hand file works well... it's a nice flat planar surface and the piston material is actually quite soft.
About one minute each with a file on these bad boys cleaned em right up:
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/piston_with-imprint.jpg)
All you want to do is clean off the material that's squished up... flat file makes it quick.
Thanks Vincent 8)
But your piston is out of the engine....and I have to be careful as even if I get the piston to TDC I still dont have a flat access way to get a flat file in there (due to the top of the block and bore)... So I was thinking the dremel I can work looking down on to the workpiece..?
Dont worry, I will be taping up and covering the rest of the engine and use a magnet to remove the debris
As an update guys, here is the cause of the carnage :( its good to know I wasnt imagining it, but bad to actually see it...though I think it is totally salvageable :lol: Maybe Im an optimist... Thoughts?
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/4.jpg)
The lug on the back of the pulley is totally sheared off.
Causing this. Luckily the locating slot is still in place on the right hand side so I can relocate the new pulley correctly and use some JB weld on the rounded edge of the other side. I have filed the nose flat as there a few little lumps and bumps
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/1.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/2.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/3.jpg)
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At TDC, the piston tops protrude above the block deck and so a file can be used. That being said, I sure wouldn't run that crank with JB weld to make up for the wear. I'd feel much better about welding up the wear and filing it back down to it's proper shape, but personally I'd opt to have it machined for the TDI sprocket. You've already witnessed the damage that results when it fails...
Andrew
Ahh, nice one cheers Andrew!
Will use a flat file in that case as Vincent suggested.
I thought this groove was only for locating the crankshaft pulley? and that the reason mine has failed is because of either a reused or incorrectly torqued bolt?
Welding would certainly seem to be the way forward, maybe I will have to go that route and bin the old jbweld idea off :lol:
The difficulty is doing it in Situ...
Whats the difference with the TDi sprocket?
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Borrowed photo:
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/Sprockets.jpg)
The one on the left is the TDi Sprocket. The crank can be machined so that the cutout is opposite the stock keyway. Unless a jig is made, then the machining require the crank to be removed which in turn requires either engine or transmission removal.
Andrew
Thanks again Andrew 8)
That photo was very useful.
I have decided to go with the in situ repair on this occasion and if I have to pull the motor in the future for any reason I will go with the TDi mod (If I havent finished the 1z I plan to drop in!)
I am going to weld the left hand edge of the groove as you suggest and then file it back to make a proper groove again.
I have got the face of the crank nose as smooth as I can using a metal file as it was a little lumpy from the pulley wobbling on it.
Just been out and bought a brand new 150amp Mig welder for close on $550 with mask so Im dying to use it :lol:
Will post some updates shortly. Got to make a parts order as well...
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Did you remove the front main seal mount?
That alum piece.
Easy to remove but I guess you could remove it afterwords and replace that seal then to keep from getting crap in the engine.
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I'd certainly do some test welds beforehand. You'll want decent penetration on the crank and so have the heat turned up a bit. Again, test a few weld beforehand. Get a piece of thick scrap steel and grind off a corner, then build it up again.
Did you get the gas setup with it or are you planning to use flux core wire?
Andrew
Thanks for the suggestion. ive done a welding course in the past and a fair bit of welding but not for a while so I will definately be doing some practising! I hadnt thought about rebuilding a few corners so I will do that as you say. Ive got some hefty steel bits knocking about.
It is a gas welder and I have a bottle of gas. Just CO2 not Argon as Im not going for looks...
Zukgod, I havent removed the front main seal mount.(yet) is it as simple as removing those two bolts visible in one of my pictures?
If it is that simple I will definately remove it afterwards and replace the seal as it will be a little fried I imagine.!!
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libbybapa got ya on the cover. Easy to remove. :D
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There is a series of bolts around the perimeter of the aluminum seal carrier.
Glad to hear you won't be doing your first welds on the end of a crankshaft. :D CO2 is just fine. I actually prefer it if I'm welding cast. It's also good for carbonating beer. :wink: :lol:
Andrew
Cheers :wink:
When you say cast, Im assuming you mean cast steel right?
I never really gave much thought to the cranks material but thinking on it Im sure its not forged!!! or billet, so cast makes sense.
Any tips on welding to this material?
I was thinking it might be a plan to insert the bolt deep into the thread, to try and prevent distortion, also, do you think warpage of the crank nose is a serious risk? eg/ should I be cautious with power/time
Cheers guys 8)
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you could probably get away with using those pins... i would much rather just go with the TDI sprocket upgrade if i were you. it's probably going to be about as much trouble as re-welding the crank nose & filing it down.
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you could probably get away with using those pins... i would much rather just go with the TDI sprocket upgrade if i were you. it's probably going to be about as much trouble as re-welding the crank nose & filing it down.
Can you elaborate jt?
What pins?? do you mean that pin 'fix' where the sprocket is drilled and the crank nose is too?
The problem with doing the TDi sprocket upgrade is that it means engine out. This is a problem because the t4 is currently located in a tricky place to get an engine crane in and its outdoors and its cooooold....so I dont fancy removing it if I can avoid it!
Welding the crank nose can be done in situ, and if I do it right first time, it shouldnt take too long...
At the end of the day, my belief is that the locating groove is to locate the pulley only, not retain it? (the bolt should do that)
The fact that the right hand side of the groove is ok, should mean in theory that timing the engine up and torquing the bolt (clockwise) should be ok as the pulley should stay in situ..
I might be being hopeful there though
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I just did the dowel pin repair on the end of my 1.6L TD crankshaft and it went really well. I had a couple of friends make the drill guide/jig for me.
(http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp337/girick1/image0008.jpg)
(http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp337/girick1/image0009.jpg)
(http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp337/girick1/image0010.jpg)
(http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp337/girick1/image0011.jpg)
(http://i425.photobucket.com/albums/pp337/girick1/image0012.jpg)
While the drilling of the crankshaft took a bit of time and effort, the results were great. When the crankshaft timing gear is on the end of the crankshaft with the dowel pins inserted there is absolutely no play. I used 3/16 inch hardened steel dowel pins that were 1.5 inches long, drilled the holes in the crankshaft as deep as I could, and ended up shortening the pins by about .15 inches.
I can't claim originality on the idea or design, that was from GoKraut and here (http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13828&highlight=) is the thread that explains how he repaired his crankshaft. GoKraut sent me the CAD file that he developed for the repair and if you want it just let me know.
I still haven't torqued the timing gear on yet since I just got my engine gasket kit and will be replacing the crankshaft and intermediate shaft seals before the final torquing of the crankshaft bolt.
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i suppose the pins would be a good idea if only you had that special tool vw_commuter has (maybe he will be nice enough to 'rent' it out? :lol:)
i know there are people out there who machine the crank in place, and others weld it up and machine that... but what kind of setup are we talking about to machine the end of the crank for the TDI sprocket? definitely don't want to start going at it with a grinder, but is there any simple solutions? maybe bolt on a plate to the crankshaft with just enough off of one end to simulate the flat end of the normal TDI crank nose, and then remove that material using a grinder or other tool?
i think you might be able to get 3-4 tries at it before the nose is completely ruined... if that helps any :lol:
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Because the rotation of the crank is clockwise and driven by the pistons, which in turn drive the sprocket, which in turn drives the injection pump and cam, all of the rotational force acting on the sprocket is working to rotate the sprocket counter-clockwise, toward the direction that the crank nose is damaged, and loosen the bolt. Couple that with the fact that the force is not constant but rather pulsed, the whole system is set up to loosen the crank bolt if there is play in the keyway.
Yes, the pinning mod would be where various holes are drilled through the sprocket and crank nose in order to prevent any motion. Like the welding option, that could also potentially be done in situ.
Andrew
Good point re the forces on the sprocket... makes sense as to why the keyway is damaged on that side as well :?
I like the look of that pinning mod, especially with the new pictures added..but Ive just spent a lot of $$$ on a welder so Im going to weld it no matter how hard :)
VW Commuter - thanks for the pics etc. I dont have any facilities really to meka that adaptor tool though :(
jtanguay - I think the TDi sprocket would not be as simple as it seems because the machining would have to be done in the perfect place to keep the crank sprocket in the correct position relative to the other sprockets.
I think the only way to do it properly would be with engine out of the car, and a proper jig setup.
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jtanguay - I think the TDi sprocket would not be as simple as it seems because the machining would have to be done in the perfect place to keep the crank sprocket in the correct position relative to the other sprockets.
Actually, the timing of both the pump and cam are infinitely adjustable and so the orientation of the crank sprocket on the crank is not important.
I fully understand wanting to go ahead and use the new tool.
Andrew
Good point again :D
Well, ive managed to weld a nut on and get the stuck bucket out.
Will post a picture up later of what I found, but basically the valve had punched a 10mm dent into the bottom of the bucket, impaled it if you like!!
So I had to get that off as well once the bucket was out (no wonder it was stuck in there!)
I had to use quite a lot more power than I expected to penetrate the lifter, this is only a 150 amp welder but should definately work on the crank, I hope, but I dont currently have any suitable bar stock to test on, so I am starting to like the pinning mod more and more!!
Posibly even in conjunction with the welding.
VW COMMUTER
If you would be good enough to send me the cad drawing for the adapter piece I would be very grateful.
My email addy is
[email protected]
Thanks[/quote]
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Nice link Andrew. If I would have been able to snag drawings of the jig to machine that flat onto the crankshaft I think I might have gone that direction. My plans are to find a nice hydraulic lifter 1.6L TD engine and rebuild it for replacing my current mechanical lifter motor.
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Check out this thread;
http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=2719
That is where I snagged the crank sprocket pic. If building the jig for the pinning, it might be a similar range of difficulty to build the jig that Andy2 shows and do the TDI sprocket. I lean toward using the TDI sprocket because of future crank sprocket replacements. If VW is not super consistent on the placement of the pulley bolt holes, then if the sprocket ever needs to be replaced it will be very difficult to line up the pin holes.
Andrew
Thanks, thats a really informative link.
The TDi sprocket mod they have done, is a bit beyond the equipment and time I have to be honest.
Im not sure I would be happy tackling it, whereas the pinning I have all the tools for (apart from the jig)
Also, Im planning a 1z TDi swap early to mid 2009 so this doesnt have to last 100k miles... (would be nice if it did though!)
VW_Commuter
Many thanks for the DXF file :wink: Much appreciated.
Here are the pics of what I found when I got the stuck bucket out....
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/24.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/25.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/23.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/22.jpg)
Spot the damage!!!
ive included a good lifter on the left of the pictures. The valve was more bent than this (it still is to the eye) but I had to hammer it out of teh guide as it was stuck so tight.
Im guessing replacing valve guides needs an engine machine shop to do it?
Not sure if its worth reusing this head (the cam lobes have a few minor scratches) and also several of the lifters have some minor scuffing on the surface.
Ive found a supplier for recon head using pattern casting, unlimited mileage guarantee for 12 months....$500 approx. They are a well known trusted supplier of recon VAG derv engines so I trust them. Just not sure if its a good swap. although Ive heard it is.
I may have to take the recon head route for speed as I need the engine back but I would still get mine repaired, I think.
how much are 4 new lifters? valve guides? 2 valves (may buy 4 to be safe), and a new cam or polishing of the lobes if they think its salvageable... ( I havent taken pics as its hard to get them in the light! but there is only one that concerns me a little ,but its still only maybe .2 mm deep at a wild guess :D
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if you're looking for some cheap lifters, prothe has some at his site www.dieselvw.com although nobody's commented on the quality... but if you're looking for a 1Z conversion anyways, then you might as well cheap out a bit. i would :wink:
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if you're looking for some cheap lifters, prothe has some at his site www.dieselvw.com although nobody's commented on the quality... but if you're looking for a 1Z conversion anyways, then you might as well cheap out a bit. i would :wink:
Thanks
that site looks like the worst laid out gold mine of parts that I could ever need!
edit// found them, I enlarged the text!
Doesnt list any for the ABL engine though... :(
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ok guys.
Another question.! I was deburring the top of the damaged piston today with a flat file as advised.
it worked a treat and the burr is now gone, however I noticed that there was more play than I expected from the piston in the bore....
I remember the last petrol engine I built there was virtually zero lateral movement (side to side or front to back).
i checked the other pistons that hadnt been hit and they were all about the same. maybe .5 mm + of movement in the bore, when I pushed them from side to side...(noticeable put it that way!)
Does anyone know what the tolerance should be??
I was expecting some wear but just dont know what is 'ok' and what isnt.
I dont want to buy a new cylinder head and fit it to find Im down on compression or have piston slap!! (not noticeable before)
Is this usual on a diesel engine?
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0.08 mm is the wear limit for the piston to bore clearance. That, however, will be measured at the skirt. The piston crown is more narrow and so will move more. I've never seen, gotten or even wanted the spec for the crown to cylinder spec.
Andrew
Thanks Andrew
To put it another way :D
Can anyone else move their piston from side to side slightly by pushing the piston crown....when the piston is at TDC of course.
As you say Libbybapa, I have never noticed or looked for such a thing in the past and it was only because I was filing the piston crown quite speedily at one point that I noticed the movement in the bore.
I'm unsure of how to proceed in the light of this...
Three choices:
1/ Leave it be, stop fussing and buy and fit the new cylinder head and other bits.
2/ Take the engine out and do a full stripdown (bad option)
3/ Buy a 'new' fully reconditioned engine from a known good supplier for a lot of $$$
(pretty bad option)
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Do you have a mic set? If so, you could measure the bore. Without a mic set, once the carbon is removed from the top of the cylinder (scotchbrite works wonders) then there should be virtually no ridge. The new piston to cyl clearance should be .001", the wear limit is .003". Considering that some of that clearance will be piston wear, then you're really wanting a ridge of less than .001" in order to be within the wear limit.
Andrew
Thanks for the suggestion Andrew. I have digital bore gauge and a full set of Micrometers and verniers. I just didnt have the tehnical info on what the ABL bore should be from the factory (or the blueprint spec) so I would have been stabbing in the dark a little!
Does anyone know the stock ABL piston size please? (also, does anyone sell oversize ones OTC? out of interest)
I will do as you suggest.....
measure the bore in two places height wise and at all 4 compass points at those two heights to come up with an average reading...
and then measure the 'ridge' and see if the bore is in spec.
I did check the condition of the bore quite carefully and the ridge is very very small and almost non existant which is a plus point I suppose. Nowhere near big enough to catch a finger nail on or be called a 'lip', fingers crossed it will be in spec.... but Im still not sure if that will give me the all clear !!!
I suppose it will be a good indicator as bores and pistons I would expect to wear together at a similar rate..
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If you're planning on a swap anyway in the not-too-distant future and the bore came in within spec or even slightly out of spec, I'd button it up and run it.
Andrew
Cheers 8)
Will post back as soon as I've done the measurements with an update on if all is good...or bad!!
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ok, well the good news is all seems to be ok!
I used a bore gauge on the bore and they are all very similar in size. The ridge is pretty much in spec, ive checked clearance with the piston when its deep in the bore and it seems fine and solid.
It must just (hopefully) be when the crown is at the very top position in the bore that a lttle movement can be elicited from the piston top.
Got a new cylinder head coming early next week....so we shall see.
Will post an update shortly
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Actually, the timing of both the pump and cam are infinitely adjustable and so the orientation of the crank sprocket on the crank is not important.
Actually just realizing that what Andrew said is true makes me want to just grind the Tdi slot with a dremel. (actually I would make a jig to to get it close)
Seems like it would be real easy.
Now if only I had a 1.9 with a crank slot problem.
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If you're planning on a swap anyway in the not-too-distant future and the bore came in within spec or even slightly out of spec, I'd button it up and run it.
Andrew
X2
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If you're planning on a swap anyway in the not-too-distant future and the bore came in within spec or even slightly out of spec, I'd button it up and run it.
Andrew
My engine was running fine, with .024 clearance between the piston and cylinder wall. Yes, thats 24 thousandths! It also had one broken ring. I guess that turbo can make up for loss of compression. Also, I really had no hard starting problems though.
I pulled it out for mounts, clutch and head gasket. Turned out my head gasket wasn't leaking though. But it got a thorough rebuild, due to the piston to cylinder clearance.
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there was quite a bit of slop in my pistons (didnt measure how much) and that when i had some head work done over 2 years ago... my car is still running (albeit rough, but she can still move if you know what i mean :wink:)
i did have new rings installed though... i'd say put it back together with whatever new parts you need, and run it until it won't run anymore!!!! (or until you get your engine swap ready to go)
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Just a small point, if you cut a keyway [on the crank] in a differant place wont this put the vibration damper [in/on the crank v belt pulley] in the wrong place?.
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Cheers, just wondered, spose you could turn the crank pulley 180deg and cut the keyway if it was a problem?.
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Cheers, just wondered, spose you could turn the crank pulley 180deg and cut the keyway if it was a problem?.
That would have been an ideal solution however it would have meant removing whats left in there of the engine (the block basically) and the T4 is parked in the most awkward place to work on it never mind remove the engine and transport it 100m down the road to my workshop!
So I decided to go for the 'in situ' fix if at all possible. If I had removed the engine I would have rebuilt it completely ground up, and I didnt really have the time at present. Also, the bottom end seems in very good order (apart from the damage of course!).
Heres the results of my labour (only got the new head the other day so can now start putting it back together :D )
how it was before
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/1.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/2.jpg)
I firstly used a grinding stone on the end of the drill and then a flat file to get the crank nose completely flat, as it had taken a beating from the wobbly pulley.
Intermediate stage (the weld had good penetration but it was soooo awkward getting in there with the van only on 10" high ramps - not fun). My head was outside the van as I couldnt fit under with the welding mask on :lol: Take aim - weld..
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/weld-use.jpg)
Weld now prepped and ground back paintakingly checking to see if I could get a proper fit for the pulley
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/done-use.jpg)
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/done-use1.jpg)
End result phase 2 - a perfectly fitting crank pulley, rock solid
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/and1c/done-use2.jpg)
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Sweet!!
Congrats man. 8)
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Hope this is of use to someone.
heres what I found doing this repair -
The weld is the 'easy' bit (but its not, its quite awkward especially if you dont have a 4 poster), reshaping the groove with such limited space was very tricky though.
A mini file was useless as the material was too hard and the 'stroke' I could get was tiny due to the block in the way!
my dremel paid for itself yet again and after several painstaking hours and trying a variety of different disks and grinding stones I got the shape and technique needed.
As you are effectively working blind (as the woodruff key is hidden on the back of the pulley) it is paintaking work shaping the groove again. But a little at a time is the order of the day otherwise you will end up needing to add more material and start over!! Also, you need to be very careful to keep as much of the original groove shape as possible as it makes it easier to resculpt one side.
So fingers crossed once its back together she will run sweetly and my work wont have been in vain :lol:
Once the bolt is torqued and loctited in though (properly) I dont think this pulley will come loose again ass it is rock solid and so is the crank nose after a littel work...
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Maybe you should look into the Stud option being discussed?
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Sweet!!
Congrats man. 8)
Thanks Dan :D
I will likely have a few more questions as I button her back up!!
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Maybe you should look into the Stud option being discussed?
Edited as Im half asleep//
yes Dan!! Was just thinking the same thing...well worth while I think
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=17557&highlight=torque+exhaust+manifold
what a mighty fine idea a stud is!!
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Very nice job, i must get my daughter to teach me how to weld!.
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Very nice job, i must get my daughter to teach me how to weld!.
Cheers Dave. Hopefully has saved me a packet!
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ok guys,a question.
I want to change the crank seal while Ive got it easily accessible.
If you look at the 4th picture down you can see the bolts involved (one is trapped under the PS pump assembly so I think I need to remove this first?)
Anyway, how easy is it to change the seal by doiuung this (or is it possible?) ? Will the cover plate looking thing just lift off once the bolts are removed? Im guessing I will need to buy a new gasket for behind there as well?
I was thinking of doing it the way Ive done it on other cars before and just prise the old one out with a screwdriver and ease the new one on using a pipe or socket to get it back on there.
But Im curious if the cover plate bit actually lifts off!
Any info appreciated!
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Yes it does lift off,just knock the old seal out and the new one back in!,i replaced the gasket on mine,but i guess you could re-use the old one with a light smeer of gasket goo.
good luck.
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Yes it does lift off,just knock the old seal out and the new one back in!,i replaced the gasket on mine,but i guess you could re-use the old one with a light smeer of gasket goo.
good luck.
Thanks for the info Dave
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Where did you get the crank sprocket from?? Thinking that I should just replace this next timing belt change.
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Where did you get the crank sprocket from?? Thinking that I should just replace this next timing belt change.
I bought it from
www.brickwerks.co.uk
Along with a new bolt :D
I believe they are sponors on here?
Came within a week iirc at a good price too
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I did a pin/stud repair a few years ago, and it's holding well. The biggest concern that was raised to me that I thought was valid was that punching holes in the end of the crank nose might lead to weakening it.
After a few years, no problems yet. The car doesn't owe me anything though, so I'm curiously waiting to see how long it holds for.
Doing the repair your way is certainly painstaking, glad to see you did it right the first time. If you're that skilled with a dremel I would have thought you'd go for the tdi pulley style and never have to worry about it again.
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vwt4, have a look on www.brick-yard.co.uk and/or www.club 80-90.
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I did a pin/stud repair a few years ago, and it's holding well. The biggest concern that was raised to me that I thought was valid was that punching holes in the end of the crank nose might lead to weakening it.
After a few years, no problems yet. The car doesn't owe me anything though, so I'm curiously waiting to see how long it holds for.
Doing the repair your way is certainly painstaking, glad to see you did it right the first time. If you're that skilled with a dremel I would have thought you'd go for the tdi pulley style and never have to worry about it again.
Glad to hear your pin/stud repair has held up well. if its lasted a few years, odds are that it will stay for good.
Regarding the TDi pulley; is it really that reliable?
It looks a better design than the original keyway one...however it seemed at the time like it would be more work to do.
With hindsight, that might not have been the case!!
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I did a pin/stud repair a few years ago, and it's holding well. The biggest concern that was raised to me that I thought was valid was that punching holes in the end of the crank nose might lead to weakening it.
After a few years, no problems yet. The car doesn't owe me anything though, so I'm curiously waiting to see how long it holds for.
Doing the repair your way is certainly painstaking, glad to see you did it right the first time. If you're that skilled with a dremel I would have thought you'd go for the tdi pulley style and never have to worry about it again.
Glad to hear your pin/stud repair has held up well. if its lasted a few years, odds are that it will stay for good.
Regarding the TDi pulley; is it really that reliable?
It looks a better design than the original keyway one...however it seemed at the time like it would be more work to do.
With hindsight, that might not have been the case!!
the TDI pulley coupled with the clutched alternator pulley make the crank nose problems a thing of the past. the problem is that the crank sprocket needs to go on very tight. if you can loosely put it on, then its not snug enough. you should need to hammer it on with a mallet. if there is any play, it will eventually work itself loose, slowly but surely. it might take up to 300,000km... but it will happen.
my TDI 1Z with about 100,000km or so had a pretty loose crank nose that had to be repaired. just goes to show that the TDI fix isn't going to remedy the problem 100%
personally though, i would like to see a 12 point crank nose... that thing isn't going to move a mm let alone slip!!! :lol: that thing would be 100% permanent.
so proper preparation, installation, etc. is a big part of the successful fixing of the crank nose.
i would imagine that the 4 pins will indeed save your motor, but they must be very tight. there can be no play in them to allow the crank bolt to work its way out. and then the pins themselves could potentially damage the crank nose as well, furthering the destruction.