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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: frankentoy on June 28, 2005, 11:19:14 am
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i bought a ball and spring controller for my 1.6 td and need a little help expaining how it needs to be hooked up..
one side says to hook to a boost source. can i run it off the intake? can it be run from the same nipple the boost gauge is reading boost or does it need its own nipple off the intake?
the other end of the controller needs to be run to the waistegate...how? where on the waiste gate? i have a garrett t3.
thanks jason
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there should be a line going from the compressor housing to the wastegate. Tap into that :D
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i bought a ball and spring controller for my 1.6 td and need a little help expaining how it needs to be hooked up..
one side says to hook to a boost source. can i run it off the intake? can it be run from the same nipple the boost gauge is reading boost or does it need its own nipple off the intake?
the other end of the controller needs to be run to the waistegate...how? where on the waiste gate? i have a garrett t3.
thanks jason
A linear opening valve style wastegate usually flows some air around the valve stem to cool it, so it is best not to skimp on the size of the air supply line feeding the wastegate or it could cause a pressure drop. In this case your other accessories (IE: boost gauge) tapped off the same inadequately sized line will see less than full manifold pressure.
FYI: for Tial-style aftermarket external wastegates, the recommended hose size for the pressure supply is 1/4". This also seems to be the same size used by Garrett and KKK on their internal wastegates, if not 5/16".
You can see how I tapped to the intake manifold "el" for a manifold pressure wastegate pressure signal here: http://www.vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=1306&start=184
The factory nipple on the compressor outlet would also work, but if you have an intercooler it will give a slightly different pressure reading due to intercooler pressure drop.
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ok im a bit lost because im not real familiar with all the options and ways of tuning or setting up a turbo. lets just say in a basically stock formed 1.6td motor, and you were me, :shock: how would you hook a boost gauge and one of these adjustable valves up?
i drilled and tapped a nipple on the compressor just like you did for the boost gauge, but i used a small fitting that works with the small clear plastic line that comes with the gauge. is this too small, do i want to just run something bigger anyway? and yes im running an intercooler too. thanks for your help and time
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The simplest way to hook up a boost gauge on a stock 1.6lTD would be to "T" into the LDA (injection pump boost enrichment) sensor hose, and the simplest way to install a manual boost controller on same motor would be to install it inline with the wastegate pressure sensing hose (this would be the large hardline on KKK turbo or rubber hose on Garrett turbo that runs from a fitting on the compressor housing to the wastegate.)
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that is as simply an explaination as it gets. i understand where im going now, thanks Jake
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Hi all. If you just tee into this line, will it not still bleed off through the wastegate which has less resistance than the boost controller??? I guess i'm missing something here?????? cheers..Shane
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Hi all. Still struggling with this :-( Can i just cut the small steel pipe and install an inline regulator??? If i do this, it won't bleed off to atmosphere as some posts suggest it should??? Alternatively can i remove the steel pipe altogether and just run a pipe from the torbo housing to the regulator and not worry about the wastegate at all??? Any pictures would be greatly appreciated, Cheers guys..Shane ( KKK24 by the way )
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i put mine on the rubber hose coming from the compressor housing and going to the wastegate. I removed the hose from the compressor housing and installed it on the controller and then made a new line from the controller back to the compressor housing. Took 2 minutes to install and if i ever want to take it off all i have to do is un hook it and reinstall the wastegate line to the compressor.
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So did you simply cut the pipe in the middle and put one end of the pipe into one side of the regulator and the other part of the pipe into the other side of the regulator??? Cheers..Shane
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Can anyone help me with this one??? Cheers guys..Shane
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So did you simply cut the pipe in the middle and put one end of the pipe into one side of the regulator and the other part of the pipe into the other side of the regulator??? Cheers..Shane
I believe this is how it works. I haven't done it but I imagine that it has to be pressure side, regulator, wastegate. just guessing
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Thanks so much for the reply. The only thing i don't understand now is what people were talking about when they said they were venting it out to atmosphere because this way doesn't does it????????? :? :? :? :? :?
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wow....
Perhaps some of us are not understanding your question
(or read Boost controller as boost GAUGE!)
Look up www.hallmanboostcontroller.com
for detailed instructions.
You need to interrupt the signal (air) to the wastegate.
There will be a rubber hose from the wastegate to the compressor housing (on all turbos).
On my T3, there is a 5/16 rubber hose about 2-3" long.
I removed it, and put the boost controller there.
easy stuff.
Enjoy!
-Brad
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Thank you so much for your reply, i'll check that out now. By the way, my turbo has a steel pipe not a rubber one. cheers..Shane
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Ok so after reading that useful link i have just realised that i have a bleeder valve and not a manual boost controller :oops: Is this still ok for my installation???Cheers..Shane
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I just used a bleeder valve on mine... I found a humidifier needle valve at Home Depot along with a brass 'T' fitting and a bit of nylon line that was the right ID for the OD of the steel line on my turbo. I cut a small piece out of the steel line, slipped the nylon line over the steel line and put it in to the brass 'T', then connected the needle valve to the remaining leg of the 'T'. I have my boost set at about 15 PSI max now - works great. About $8 in parts...
The downside of the bleeder valve type system is it doesn't allow as precise control as a proper boost controller would, and it wastes boost since it's essentially a boost leak. A "real" boost controller would block all pressure to the wastegate until it reached the 'set' pressure on the boost controller. It would then 'POP' and the wastegate similarly would pop open. With the bleeder type system the wastegate will slowly start to open as the pressure to it reaches its factory setting which may limit you from making really big boost numbers. Upside to the bleeder type system is a lot of the wastegates are air-cooled from the wastegate pressure line (like the K24 on my car). It relies on airflow coming through the wastegate line to cool down the internals. The "proper" type of boost controller doesn't flow any air until the set boost pressure is reached, so no cooling airflow through the wastegate. I think that's probably why the Garret turbos have two air lines instead of one - one is for cooling, the other is the actual boost control. Of course if your waste gate is separate from the turbo and relies on an actuator rod like a lot of the AAZ's then this isn't a concern either.
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My T3 has a metal hard line, bent to the curvature of the turbo, for most of the run, but then just about 2.5-3" of rubber hose.
Though I am not familiar with any turbos using all metal pipe to hit the wastegate actuator, they may exist (My turbo experience is slim)
Even if it were a metal line (make SURE this is the right one!!!)
there are no troubles cutting it and clamping a rubber hose to it to go to the MBC.
For what it is worth, there will only be one line that is screwed into the compressor housing, and goes down to the wastegate.
That is where the magic happens!
Beware,
boost is addictive, and the MBC will easily give you the ability to float your head at the turn of a screw, but you will have fun until that happens!!
-Brad
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Mine's a K24 - I think the all-metal wastegate line is more common on the KKK turbos than it is on the Garrets...