VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: oldskool rich on October 27, 2008, 01:59:21 pm
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ok as sum of you might know im building a 2.0 PD with an ALH VE head, the 16v PD has no recesses in the pistons for the valves, and as i want to drop the CR anyway i was going to go for a thicker head gasket, can i just hack one apart and use 2 extra copper sheets to make it thicker? or does anyone make one already that thick, the valves dont quite hit the pistons but must be dangerously close
i need sum suggestions, i cant go any further with my build until i know what im doing, bottom end is all fully rebuilt btw
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ok as sum of you might know im building a 2.0 PD with an ALH VE head,
Do you mean you are using an ALH block? Cuz that would be a lot of work converting an ALH head into a PD!!!
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you should get one made?
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I was wondering if the 2.0 TDI heads would fit the older blocks.
Why discard the 16v head for the 8v head? What are you gaining there? Do you just want to rid yourself of the PD electronics?
You can't just "rid yourself of the PD electronics" if that is the heading towards what your suggesting. The PD does not rely on a VE based pump to run the motor, but rather a couple electronic hi pressure pumps and each injector on its own operates as a "pump". The 16v head would simply just rely on the electronics to run it. No real way around it.
oldskool rich's original plan for the ALH block base with PD components was for a stronger "stock" bottom end for a ALH VE based motor....not to run a PD setup. You'd really just need to have the valve recesses cut for the PD pistons so that you don't run into any issues.
Joe
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As an alternative, would the T4 2.5 tdi pistons fit? Physically in the bore, and to the 2.0 con rods?
That should then match the valves on the ALH head?
Then again, were people using these for the extra strength or for use on an overbored and otherwise scrap block?
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is it flat top pistons , if so what cc do you have in the 16 pd head and what cc do you have in the 8v tdi head , then you can work out CR with the 8v head on the pd block , put the 8v head on the pd block with a old gasket make tight set cam timing and check for valve to head contact and see what your clearince is , you could put som eng blue on the valves to this would mark the pistons so if that needed moded you would see where, i my self would not go with 2 H gaskets to get the CR down i would mod the pistons or the head , what CR you looking for 16 to 1 ?
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for those of you who may have got the wrong end of the stick, this whole engine has been built from spares so i havent done away with a 16v head, i just dont trust electrics enough to go with a PD so im running the biggest most powerfull 4 pot VE that you can shake a stick at.
i dont know what CR im looking for, i want it to start up no trouble up to minus 10 degrees and also run up to 40 PSI of boost without cracking my head so if sumone can tell me what i need, that wud be great
i think the best course of action will be to get my valves skimmed flat the same as the PD 16v and then get a thicker after market head gasket, anyone know a pace that sells them? i asked GSF for the thickest one but i dont think it will cut the mustard, unless the PD can run this much boost no trouble, anyone know?
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You'll need to be careful removing anything too much from the valves as I believe they are still sodium packed. I could be wrong though. Haven't gone that route before.
As for compression. I can attest to lowered compression as I have the mTDI in the Mk1 down around 17:1 or so, close to the VWMS specs. I'd have to look at my old sheets or see what I reported in my build thread as to what EXACTLY i arrived at. Too many numbers in my head at the moment.
As for a head gasket. If your going for a "thicker" head gasket for the sake of lowering compression...a headgasket is NOT the way to do it. Yes...yes...it has been done, blah blah blah but it is still not the most efficient way to lower the CR as in doing so with a thicker head gasket (like alot of budget gasser FI cars do) your going to hurt the squish volume of the motor...especially if you intend on going low. If you really want to go that route, stock metal headgasket could be taken apart and put back together to achieve a "thicker" gasket. Or...you can look to companies that do copper o-ringing of motors and custom head gaskets to get a thicker one. I can't remember the name of the company stateside that I was looking at...but originally, I considered this route when I was still working with the ole' IDI TD engine in the original GTD. I remember a good discussion that we had on the old board about it as well...and WHY not to go with a thicker headgasket.
Anyways...my .02
I'll be happy throwing mid 30-40 psi at the mk1's mTDI motor next year and have no worries of doing so with the route that I took to lowering compression and the ceramic coating that I did as well. The new turbo will warrant and allow that to happen and it'll be fun to see what it does as long as I can find a clutch that will hold it together as I'm seeing major slippage now if I hammer 25psi in 3-5th. The 02a will be solving alot of those problems *which is running a Stg 3 020 clutch...but not as strong as what a comparable 02a STG 3 unit would*.
With the lowered CR in the mk1, I can still EASILY start the car down to about 30F without glow plugs...its just a smokey start. With glow plugs I had no issues at the VWMS spec CR at -10F last year when starting the car. Just cold start smoke to deal with at startup until it warms up.
Joe
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do you meen i should get the pistons machined and coated? ive put all that stuff back together now and also that sounds like mega money that i havent realy got atm, well if i just skim a fraction off the valves that will put the head back to standard and then was just gona put in 2 more of those tiny copper strips that go each side of the head gasket, should just drop it a fraction without going nuts, im running on biodiesel so start up can sumtimes be an issue, my AAZ can take 35psi+ with stock gasket so im sure this will be fine
unless anyone deeply objects
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No, I'm not saying that you need to. A suggestion...maybe, but that is a choice that you would need to make. I did a few calculations when I did the mk1's mTDI motor that helped determine "where" my CR is currently at.
You would need to do the same calcs to see where you are at as well...if you want to succesfully lower it to a point that you want *i'm not sure what that is...what are you looking for?* and I can tell you that the copper shims only are not the most effective way to correctly lower it...nor if they are too thin will they do much of anything at all.
I'm not sure how much you could successfully remove from the valves. I seem to remember someone on here substituting one type of valve for the VW sodium valves before...but who that was....I can't quite remember. I even remember someone experiementing with tuliping the valves as well...
Again "how much" are you talking about removing? .005mm?, .005mm? .05mm? just to throw random numbers out to you. Have you determined how much you would need to remove to have success, etc?
No need to pull things apart, etc. if you don't want to. I considered the ceramic coating CHEAP insurance when I did it and it wasn't bad. I was under 200.00 to have all 4 coated with the TBC top coating and a PC-9 skirt coating. I'm sure the prices are comparable over your way.
As for machining the pistons. In your case that method really wouldn't work all that well the same exact way that I did mine since the PD pistons lack a good portion of the combustion chamber bowl "lip" that exists on the ALH units like I have.
Joe
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Making a PD engine working with basic electronic is not a big problem, much more easy than what you tried to do, it's just a pity that you demoted to the mechanical pumps, you cut the potential power in half.
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Agreed, especially considering the PD's and the latest motors that will start popping up now with the CR injection. I'd be interested in seeing what people are able to pull out of the newer designs electronically. Honestly, pump wise...and though a big support of mTDI motors... the newer motors were motors that were designed around electronics...not older tech designed to blend and look for temp solutions to meeting emissions and creating efficiency like the VE based TDI's were. Truly, in their natural form...they have a hybrid pump that relies upon electronics to operate an essentially mechanical pump *that was made to accomodate electronics after being fully mechanical since its conception*. The newer motors take advantage and exploit potential to the extreme.
That said...when acquiring the 'rado that Duane has, I think this is the route I'll be taking with it. A crazy simplified PD motor or a new CR swap in a year or so once a few have been totalled on the road. A diesel fleet! Two mTDI's for that older school feeling...and a PD or CR in the 'rado where old school again meets new tech...but keeping more of that new tech. Def. powerful, efficient and with very few sacrifices...
Joe
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well i havent got the money to pay for any piston work atm, it starts at £100 which i dont realy have and not conviced its needed, i didnt listen to people that told me my AAZ wud blow up and a year on and its still going.
im taking about 0.6 mm of the valves. i know that you say head gasket is a big no no but i dont hav any other options, 2 copper sheets make 0.5mm or i cud use the middle peace that is 0.6 but then must use another copper peace to seal it so can ether go for an extra 0.5 or 0.85 what do you recon? i dont even know where to start to work out my CR, will be whatever a stock 2.0 PD is then + 0.5 or 0.85
i will be going for a 16V pd head in a few years, i just want to see what i can do with a VE, i know i wont get much over 250 bhp with this method but then planning to use methanol injection and loads of extras to get it up to 350
i am aiming for this to be the fastest 8V in the world but maybe im way off :roll:
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Hay bro why dont you get your valve seats recut 1mm -1.5mm that will help in the cr , are you using hyd follers ? and if you skim .5mm of the pistons ,put them in a laith your self , your cr should be 15.5-16 to 1 rufflay you would need to work out your cc to get the exact cr :wink:
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thanx snakemaster, im gona try the gasket first because that will amount to the same thing, if that fails then i will skim the pistons, im running hydraulic tappits, was to hard to convert to mechanical :(
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ok so i cant bring myself to do the gasket
since it will now have the same cr as a 2.016v PD how much do i need to drop it to run 40psi easily, without causing myself starting trouble :roll: ?
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why dont you fit the pd head and put tdi injectors in it , and fit a pump bracket for a ve pump , and run a ve pump ,
CR things you need to work out ( cc in the pd head )
(cc in the ahu head )
are the pistons flat exaept from the bowl and sit flush at TDC if so what are the cc in the bowl
whats the CR of a PD motor
whats the CR of a 1z or ahu i think it is 17.5 --19 to 1
if you get some figurs we will try to help you out
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why dont you fit the pd head and put tdi injectors in it , and fit a pump bracket for a ve pump , and run a ve pump ,
You can't "fit the pd head and put tdi injectors" in it... Pumpe Deuse injectors are internal to the head itself, under the valve cover, piezo style injectors that are electronically controlled by a couple of pumps...as well as other bits *so as to not get into too much detail*. You can't run a PD head, with VE TDI injectors, a VE pump, bracket, etc. Two ENTIRELY different beasts as far as the head goes.
The VWMS figure, and ceramic coating would securely allow you to run 40psi. I wouldn't hesitate on my mk1's mtdi right now running that... when you think about how long a run at 40psi would be, it would only be a short burst...nothing sustained.
Additionally, my only worry would be low end torque and rods...but with the PD rods, you should be ok. Larger turbo will push that psi/torque a bit later in the band *though you are running a VNT if I remember correctly...so that changes that* so, I wouldn't worry about the rods as well.
Joe
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i know that the PD is unlike the TDI , but under neath it is still a engine , the PDs injectors could be replaced with tdi injectors , may take a bit of work clamp them down and a seal to the head, it dont mater that the injectors are internal to the head , under the rocker cover , there is all was ways round things , i am not saying it is going to be easy but i think it could be done , theres a vauxhall vectra 2.0l turbo DI 16v with injectors under the rocker cover
if some one would like to donate a PD i would have a go at M TDI-PDing it
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theres no way that you could make the 16v head work with tdi injectors, trust me i wud of if i cud. the injectors are opperated by the camshaft and wud be in the way of any modification
TBH the PD is a real nice bit of kit the only thing that puts me off is the cost of wen things go wrong and i hate electrics
the fastest 8v in the UK is a mk2 golf m-tdi with a T28 owned by diesel central my goal is to beet it so it must be 8v, i will be running a T22
the 16v PD head is flat, so is mine, the valves are also flat, do you think i shouldnt bother lowering my CR?
why should i ceramic coat my pistons? do you realy think it makes that much difference?
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I don't think you understand "how" the PD operates. Yes...it is an "engine", but take a look...
Couldn't find a pic of the 16v 2.0 PD head...but the 8v gives a simple idea of the complexity of the task...
PD injectors...
(http://i13.ebayimg.com/03/i/000/f6/f4/830c_1.JPG)
Which are in part operated by the cam as well as electronics...hence the spring...
(http://212.227.22.180/images/artikel/pd.jpg)
(http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/17/1f/70a8_1.JPG)
So...assuming you could account for that. You would then need to run lines from the VE pump, through the valve cover seal, to get it to seal with injection lines from the pump, account for the hold down clamp for the VE style injector, find some sort of return line to run between those injectors that will hold up inside the cylinder head? Eh...alot of senseless work for what already is a very well built, robust and solid motor. Electronics at that point...and far before that point would make a TON more sense.
Not to put you down or anything, but this idea is about as crazy as the reverse engineering of the VR6 motor into a "TDI". Hey, if the money is there though, go for it! It'd be great to see.
Much easier routes to go though.
Joe
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We must have posted at the same time. Similar comments.
You can do what you want...but with everything you want to throw at this motor and if not going the correct route of lower CR to account for the extra boost that you want to run and still have a decent reliable motor...ceramic coating the tops of the pistons at the very least for what on this side of the pond amounts to about 100.00 USD , its just plain CHEAP insurance that you don't stress, fracture or crack the pistons in the common places that the TDI pistons are known to do so...which, is close to the combustion chamber bowl/lip.
I'm not going to say "yes, this will happen" or "no this won't" if you do/don't lower compression, ceramic coat, etc. etc. There are just simply good ways, right ways and insurance to protect your "investment" in the end when it comes to double/tripling the power output of motor such as these. I prefer, "do it once...and do it right". Lowering compression slightly will allow you to raise your boost without worries with the only side effect really being a little bit more cold start smoke. Nothing major. I can run just about WHATEVER advance on want on my setup and have no worries about what I throw at it come next year once there is a good tranny in the car, and the car responds to that as well. Can something still break? Yes. Will it break if you don't mod compression, ceramic coat, etc. etc.? Not sure...maybe not. There are a ton of different ways out there.
I remember Central's TDI, I chatted with Simon several times over on TDIClub as well as (what I believe) to be the new owner of the car itself. I believe it was a straight stock motor with the extra bits like the turbo, nozzles, hybrid pump, etc. However, I remember it also throwing a rod, more mods done I believe, etc. Not even sure if that actual motor is still around at this point.
May have to inquire.
Joe
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since the 16V has dual cam's, do the PD injectors on those heads shoot straight down the middle???
even stock the 16V 2.0 TDI engines are beasts!!! like tintin's saying its not really that hard to get going as you might expect... as long as the immobilizer is deleted of course :lol:
hook that thing up with a good tune/map, huge turbo... and you will be breaking either tranny's or driveshafts left right and center :twisted:
don't forget the PD's were built to withstand some serious boost... 40-50 psi is nothing for them... but i wonder what their breaking point is??? :twisted:
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that would be interesting to find out. If I had a PD coming my way, I would give up my mTDI obsession (or def. run the PD in my daily). More mechanical parts= more things to break in the end. We have seen that with camplates, rotors, pistons, rods, etc. etc. in some cases and you just have a hard time getting up to and surpassing the power that the PD potentially has, etc. Now the CR motors...that'll be really interesting to see!
I don't think he is going to go electronics though because of what he said above regarding wanting to challenge being the fastest 8v, etc. deal.
Joe
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i wouldn't expect a 16v PD engine to be cheap anytime soon, but how much do they run? of course without the ECU & harness it's a real pain tracking everything down... unless you enjoy getting it from the stealership... no lube either :shock: :lol:
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The ALH ECU, etc. could be made to run the PD if I remember something Martin said at one point. Ultimately back when I knew I wanted to convert my b3 to TDI, I wanted to find a 16v 2.0 PD motor from a passat when they were stateside here....but that is
1. Super expensive...last one I saw was about 3k...which far more than what I have into my motor and rebuild on the current mTDI motor I'm building fot it
2. Hard to find...most the PD's out there are the standard 110's.
Joe
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i have no problem getting 16vPD the VW breakers yard that i work at has 20+ if anyone is after one. im trying to get as much power out of an 8v as i can.
im just realy unlucky with electrics and im not prepared to try building one of these until ive masterd the VE
ok still not sure what to take off the pistons, was thinking quater of a mm and then ceramic coat, i dont have the money ATM but i will wait until i do :roll:
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Really? Damn, I wonder... what can you get one for complete? and i'm wondering how much it would cost to get it here!
Joe
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hmmmmm we should find a way to get these over to this continent... how much for a complete engine? do you have them with ECU's as well as wiring or just pulls from wrecked cars???
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yes...please...please...this could change my project potential (for the 'rado) completely.
Joe
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i thort it was expensive to send a shirt to the states, i would doubt it wud be worth it. ill find out tomoz
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boys think big! Rich, load up up a shipping container and make it worth your while!
i see dollar signs! i can make us some money! i been doing it for a while!
Duane
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What about squish? It's not a petrol and there isn't a similar flame front, but if you reduce compression by gap around the piston, you have less density and velocity in the swirl in the bowl.
Less in the bowl could mean the flame front isn't contained and touches the sides or plain doesn't mix well, either case result down on power, black smoke and soot.
Now, how much this matters, is anyone's guess. It's all about what happens at TDC, when the piston is an inch down it won't have much effect.
But - there is a reason why pistons nearly touch the valves and cylinder heads and all the air is forced into a bowl. The more you cut away from this, the more potential problems.
I'd stick with the stock gasket, recess the valves a little if you have to and grind out the combustion chamber a little if needed to reduce comp ration, then full ceramic coat.
IMHO, Greg.
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yes...please...please...this could change my project potential (for the 'rado) completely.
Joe
Humm... Joe, the 16V PD already exist here, in the passat.
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do you guys not have audi over there? 2.0 pd is very common in these and its the same
so hang on ur saying i should trim off the lip around the combustion chamber and then ceramic coat it?
i suppose that makes sence but how much should i take off?
my friend was telling me that ceramic coating doesnt increase strength it just helps the heat disapate
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Correct
my friend was telling me that ceramic coating doesnt increase strength it just helps the heat disapate
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yes...please...please...this could change my project potential (for the 'rado) completely.
Joe
Humm... Joe, the 16V PD already exist here, in the passat.
Martin,
Yes...I know. But they are SUPER expensive to buy and hard to find as there weren't that many over here.
Have a source for a nice PD at a nice price? I'd like to do PD or CR for my rado project ...
Joe
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http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html have a look
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Correct
my friend was telling me that ceramic coating doesnt increase strength it just helps the heat disapate
Thats exactly what it does. I never said it would increase strength...read my posting regarding why I ceramic coated and you'll find *and I believe I mentioned in here as well* that it was to prevent dissapation of heat through the piston...thus reduce lost potential energy in the form of heat. I REMOVED the bowl lip to reduce a failure prone area of the ALH pistons with high heat/boost/fuel *cracking at the bowl/lip* and effectively reduced CR WITHOUT effecting squish volume.
Doesn't strengthen...promotes efficiency through less heat energy loss *best bet would be valve faces, piston tops and pathways* and simply dissapates heat that could potentially damage your pistons.
Joe
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so i need to lose the entire lip of the combustion chamber, coat the pistons, valve faces and bores?
that sounds costly :(
ill see what i can do :roll:
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NO
On PD pistons, there isn't much of a lip if I remember...I wouldn't worry about it there but its an EFFECTIVE way to lower compression on ALH style pistons, etc.
For the ceramic coating, you could get away with NONE, you could be fine with just the pistons...or you can do the lot..pistons, valve faces and the exhaust track. NOT the bores.
Coating its your perogative...some believe in it...some don't.
Joe
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if you get the ceramic coating, make sure its done right... apparently if it doesn't adhere to the surface (from improper prep) it can flake off :shock: but i'm sure any reputable shop thats been doing it for years and has good feedback, will take care of you.
it's probably a really good idea to get it done, especially on a diesel. you want all of that heat to be at the turbo! :twisted:
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Mine was done professionally and I wouldn't have it done any other way because of the prep needed.
SwainTech.... can't say enough good things and their reputation speaks for itself in MORE than one arena.
Joe
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I have the idea you guys are totally twisted up..
1. A 16v PD piston will not work with a 8v head.. why? Because the bowl is in the center, and with all 8v heads it has an offset towrds the injector.
2. increasing squish volume is bad, don't do it
3. 8v PD pistons have approx the same lip as 8v PD pistons, removing the lip is also not the optimal way to drop CR unlike the 16v PD pistons which are completely different
4. the pistons you can use to create a 2.0 8v tdi are: T4 2.5l pistons, 81mm without internal oil cooling passage or better 2.0 PD 8v pistons, from engine codes liks BMM etc, found in some passat, audi A4, skoda superb, altea freetrack etc
5. with the thinking you are doing now there's no way you'll get close to the fasted 8v tdi :D, the guys from profituning in slovakia are running high 10's with PD technoligy, 82mm forged pistons, some rods/girdle, and big gt25v + NOS
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wwooooowwww :shock:
pics pics pics!!! pleeaasssee :oops:
awesome... you guys rule... 2.0 16v tdi pd with alh engine... brutal
again, pics? :oops: :oops:
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well not much competition in the UK so im in with a chance, lol i admit i could of thort things through a bit better but im just gona adapt as i go along thats what i did with my 1Z and it seems to run ok, im not sure about the piston problem, i dont know what im gona run yet, so will the 2.5 pistons be a straight swap? will they fit with the PD rods?
im not much of a reader and i have a breakers yard at my disposal so im jsut gona *** about with bits until it beets everything else in its class, i honestly dont mind rebuilding it 100 times, i enjoy it. im converting my mk1 to have a mk2 subframe so it will be easyer to whip it in and out
im gona post sum build threads wen i get round to it, ive got my AAZ, 1Z and now this
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P3300299.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P5040136.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P5040135.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P5040138.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P5040122.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P5040141.jpg)
thanx jiggs, im glad sumones rooting for the under dog, i hope it is brutal in the end and not a pile poo like sum people think :roll:
tbh im just ***ing around, if it does work it will be rapid! if not ill just sell out to 16v PD, win win realy, i just prefer driving sumthing a built myself that no one else has got, is that crime?
everyone told me that i cudnt fit PD internals into a 1Z block, look whos laughing now :lol: its possibly the only one in the world 8)
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That thing is a looker. :shock: How did you get it all that clean?
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Look alot like my engine :p But I used ARL block with the 2.0 PD 8v pistons..
The 2.5 T4 pistons will fit but not with the rods you have, I don't know if there are rods available with the bigger journal without the tapered head..
The pistons you need are from engine code BMM etc.. should be findable..
Are you going to use that inktake manifold?
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do the BMM pitons have recesses? i soaked it in petrol for a few weeks cleaned the *** out of it then sprayed a fine mist of chrome paint on it to give it that sparkle
i dont know why i bother, every engine i do starts that cleen but by the time its on the road it looks *** again :roll: im building this in my dinning room to try and keep this one tidy
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Yes, they are like ARL pistons, but 81mm :)
My engine also was that clean, I had a new head, started the engine, then nI found out that somehow the plug in the oil passage under the vacuum pump wasn't there :?
Does that engine has balance shafts? how's the oilpump driving? I don't see the sprocket on there..
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(http://users.telenet.be/rub87/rest/collector/DSCN5900.jpg)
With some work done to the bowl to reduce CR, if you zoom you can see 80.96 on there
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1. A 16v PD piston will not work with a 8v head.. why? Because the bowl is in the center, and with all 8v heads it has an offset towrds the injector.
Héhéhé...!!! Thus the injector nozzle will not inject into the piston bowl, but on the top of the piston, be sure this engine will not work very well.
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everyone told me that i cudnt fit PD internals into a 1Z block, look whos laughing now its possibly the only one in the world
rich do you mean 1Z or ahu internals in a PD block , cos the block in the pic has 2.0 and looks like a 2.0 PD block to me , or do you have some trick up your sleave :o
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yes it has an itegral balance shaft. im not sure if thats standard because all the bits came from different places
no my M-TDI 1Z engine is a totaly different project, its in a corrado VR6 it has PD pistons, rods and crank out of a PD 130 which are aparently 30% stronger, had to do alot of machine work to make it all fit, will be worth it though, hoping to run about 230 bhp reliably
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P5170183.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P5150168.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P2170241.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P2260259.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P2170240.jpg)
its nealy on the road, just working a few bugs out of the turbo set up, everything else runs fine, i realy should get sum pics of the bay
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sum better ones
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P4110032.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P3300285.jpg)
(http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/fingerbanger/P4180050.jpg)
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Turbo is in the same pos as mine on my previous AFN..
(http://users.telenet.be/rub87/rest/collector/DSCN3168.JPG)
If I were you I'd really use a better intake manifold.. and 230hp is too much for that turbo reliable..
I was just thinking, if you'd just plug a ecu in there with the crank angle sensor and needle lift sender, and maybe a few other things you'd be able to view the effective timing while the engine is running..
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I was just thinking, if you'd just plug a ecu in there with the crank angle sensor and needle lift sender, and maybe a few other things you'd be able to view the effective timing while the engine is running..
thats pretty interesting... i would like to test that out with my mTDI as i have both crank & needle lift sensors...
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wow nice exhaust manifold, what other inlet manifold cud i use? the one i have only just fits
what have you done for the VNT control? sumone in the UK dinoed at 240bhp from a 1Z with this set up, apparently after 240 the block starts to twist so you can run about 260 but can only probly do one run then change the head gasket
what will break first at 230bhp? what do you think is the highest i can go before things start to fall apart?
i might make myself a main gurdle to hold everything together if need be
do you have any advice about this turbo as i guess youve had more experiance than me. its already fallen apart once, but seems ok now, will i damage it if i keep the vains closed for too long?
i dont think im gona use VNT again, its too tempramental, i think ball bearing + superchager for the win :wink:
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I was just thinking, if you'd just plug a ecu in there with the crank angle sensor and needle lift sender, and maybe a few other things you'd be able to view the effective timing while the engine is running..
thats pretty interesting... i would like to test that out with my mTDI as i have both crank & needle lift sensors...
It should work, there is also a mechanical pump with N108 on it.........