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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Jet A on October 11, 2008, 09:35:57 pm
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So i got ALOT done on the golf this weekend. have a big shipment from autohaus and rockauto, i was able to get something accomplished.
I ended up tapping the water pump housing for cool water, and the return line goes to just below the expansion tank.
Oil comes from the top of the filter housing and returns to the tank.
Pistons are ceramic coated, freshly re ringed. Head is rebuilt, injecters have mercedes nozzles w/ 140bar pop pressure
Turbo is a td04 off an 02 wrx. has been rebuilt by me.
I ended up mounting the turbo 90 out of the exhaust manifold. all of the piping is 304ss and the flanges were laser cut. Gaskets are made from 20gauge 304ss anealed. There are about 20hrs fabrication into this, and about the same into "Design".
The intake is drilled and tapped w/ 2 1/8 npt. one for boost gauge, the other for nitrous. Water methonal will be injected post intercooler, and is set to an egt, and hobbs pressure switch.
The 90 degree el for the up pipe is 304ss schd 40 pipe, and has a bung welded on it for the pyro. Down pipe allows for the wastegate to have a separate out let, to help effiecency. Exhaust will be 3" straight. 416 ss
Intercooler is out of a wrx as is not plumbed in yet. waiting on ebay piping to get here. will be blocking off the blow off valve port as this is not needed.
Oil cooler is mounted to the front of the radiatior and the sandwhich will supply the oil to the cooler, as well as the pick up for the pressure and the temp sender.
Will be buying studs and metal hg as soon as this one blows, or the motor proves itself to me
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/0de85d5c.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/d9054fba.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/c89ba2d1.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/d904a69c.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/3dcf79e7.jpg)
(http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i44/petermandaniel/6ce95a88.jpg)
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Nice work!!!
that intake looks REAL nice!
how bout some pics of the turbo coolant lines??? I would like to see how you tapped the water pump???
I got a K26 turbo and I am about to plumb the coolant lines...I think I am just gonna grab the pressurized coolant from the head outlet....I know it will be hot water....but it should still be 30*-40* cooler then the engine oil so it will help/aid with turbo cooling either way....the turbo coolant return line will be on the suction side of the water pump...
nice work! 8)
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could i ask why your not using a TD pump?
Bert
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you running a cooling fan? sweet setup on the intercooler, looking to do mine soon so I'm getting plenty of ideas.
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you might want to consider putting the I.C. in front of the radiator and not behind you want the coolest transfer of your charge air for max H.P.!
Duane
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could i ask why your not using a TD pump?
Bert
my guess is that its a n/a block and he doesnt want to overheat stuffs. keeping with hte n/a pump is an easy way to not overfuel the car and kill it.
or....
he doesnt have the td pump
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could i ask why your not using a TD pump?
Bert
my guess is that its a n/a block and he doesnt want to overheat stuffs. keeping with hte n/a pump is an easy way to not overfuel the car and kill it.
or....
he doesnt have the td pump
thats a turbo pump it's a echo pump witch has no LDA like a tru TD pump
if it is a echo pump that has a small pump head on it 8mm! you would get better HP with a real TD pump then that pump you should look into a better pump after all that nice work you have done! you will notice the performance difference between the two!
Duane
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Thanks for the comments.
I do not have a TD pump, because i dont have one....yet. Funds arent unlimited. I want to get the motor broke in and rolling so i know she will hold. then the pump goes to giles, and probably do some studs. I am running a elecric fan in front of the radiator. THere is no room for the intercooler in front, while i would like to put it there, it is more economical for me to put it behind. cooling of the motor is #1 priority, so at higher speeds, and higher boost, i there should be enough to cool the air. It is a thick intercooler, of decent quality so i am hoping.
Willys, I didnt tap the pump, i tapped the housing. In order to do that, you must remove the alternater and bracket, in order to move the bracket, you need to bring a 1/4 ratched with a wobble, 13mm socket, and a lot of swear words! unless you move the IP. I tapped the hole with a 3/8 npt, just above the 3 pipe coming into the housing. I will post a pic of that later tonight. But it is pretty easy to do. i actually d&t my broken housing, test fited, and then bolted up the real one.
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you might want to consider putting the I.C. in front of the radiator and not behind you want the coolest transfer of your charge air for max H.P.!
Duane
I also agree with this, but hey it is your project. i personally would try the intercooler infront and a larger fan behind. otherwise to me the intercooler was a waste of your precious time and money, but again it is your project. Yea i do agree it does look good, hope it works out too. I like the intake also, it shows off your willingness to go with a change which in most cases is good :D
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I absoluuuuteeely LOVE that downpipe.... I don't know why, maybe because its massive?
Totally sucks about the IC :cry: i know how you feel about the room issue
I'm having to try and cut and tig my volvo one (that i got for 20 bucks :P ) to make non-plastic sides and make it double thick/half as tall and put it in the big front euro bumper and somehow plumb down there.
You know what you should do :wink:
:!: anyone can RIPPP on me for this ... :!:
make a subaru style hoodscoop IC :D
I've considered it A LOT. It would be soooooo coool! like an impreza WRX or the 2.5L XT outbacks.
I've practiced cutting hoods (not vw hoods dont worry!) and figureing out sealing it. Unfortunately it would have to be offset due to the height of the engine (im not a fan of offset) but it would work, and work well IMO. Short plumbing & good flow if you have(or make!) a good/BIGG scoop
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I also looked at top mounting the IC, not enough clearence, or access to other vitals..
I am going to pull the radiator tonight, and see if i can massage the IC into place. unfortunatly, i think with the ypipe outlets in the postion they are, the IC will sit to low, and be suseptable to damage.
Took it for some playing around on the hills last night....definatly more peppy. But i need more fuel. I can build around 8psi...and the wastegate is not dumping. the turbo doesnt lite till approx 3500-4000rpm. which was to be expected. i was just hoping for a bit more boost. 8psi i s a little low. Going to look into a smaller impeller or a larger turbine. At least see whats out there to remap this turbo. No egt gauge yet, but there was no smoke, mostly a haze, so i am confident i am not OVERfueling. I need to figure out how to get more fuel out of my stock pump for little money so i can justify a super pump.
I was proud of the down pipe. The turn out on the second elbow was a PITA to weld and not warp that flange. that was about 6 sets of welds over two hrs to keep the heat down.
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As for egts, mine is a NA with the fuel turned up all the way and I can only get up to 1150F. The probe is about 2 inches from the head.
It's weird though, sometimes it'll smoke thick black clouds out and other times it barely smokes at all. I blamed it on outside air temp :roll:
Anyways with the IP you have I really doubt you can hurt it with the turbo and big exhaust.
Nice job!
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I havent played with the pump yet. Still trying to figure everything out on it. I turned the fuel screw in a little bit till it started. I dont understand the fuel screw. its adjusting the idle as well. do i just back down the idle screw then?
Im looking into a bigger pump head, or a bigger pump....giles?
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carefull with that thing!the flyweights will govern the idle with the fuel screw turned in.As soon as you pull the throttle lever it could take off.At least thats what happened to my 10mm head.
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its adjusting the idle as well. do i just back down the idle screw then?
Yeah, if you screw in the fuel screw to much you'll run out of idle adjustment, also if you crank the fuel screw in to much then it'll run away like dillenger1 said.
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i'm interested in seeing how that turbo works for you... the subaru engines make max hp @ much higher revs than these motors see normally... my best guess is that the low end will suffer a bit more than having a K24 or T3
nice project though! you might run into problems having the intercooler behind the rad as pointed out above. you need to create an air tight seal between the rad & intercooler, otherwise the cooling efficiency of the rad will be diminished. air will be drawn from around the rad and not through the rad (you won't notice this while going at speed, but at a traffic light, etc, you will...) i've been contemplating water intercooling myself... as you can get a really skinny rad to go in front with a lot of surface area for cooling. a little more complicated though to get all the pump temp controlled etc...
these motors are very fun to play around with :twisted:
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looks like if i cut the core support i can make room on the driver side in front of the radiator. of course this will be some serious plumbing. may have to buy some more pvc.....ok, ok, aluminum pipe.
still gunna get you that pic of the housing willys
forgot to mention, i have looked at getting the turbo retrimed if it doesnt work better with more fuel. very reasonable priced.
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Have you moved your IC yet ? If not, I would be cutting metal in front of the radiator to make it fit - maybe extend the bumper 4" to give you room. The fascia could be modified to move the grill out some. Right now I could not call it an inter cooler, but an inter heater ;-) Your air will be about 180 F :-(
Has anyone measured the intake air on a turbo w/o an IC ?
If this is not what you want, how about a really radical idea ? Move the IC INTO the hood - cut a hole in the hood directly over the space where the IC would be if you rotated it 90 degrees where it is now. Mount it IN the hood flat, with a good scoop over it. Plumb it with flexible heat resistant hose like McMaster-Carr has with pt # 5398K13 "Crushproof Rubber Duct Hose for Exhaust Fumes 3" ID, 3-1/2" OD, Black, 11' Length" or smaller - I can't see what size your IC is. Anyway that would give you all the room under the hood for the vitals and be unique !!
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air/water setups generally take less room. as the rad up front can be quite thin, and less plumbing :wink:
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Here's another idea for you on moving your IC - yeah its on a Japanese ride, but the idea is there - you could make a guard to protect against curb encounters..
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/CX_hatch/
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Here's another idea for you on moving your IC - yeah its on a Japanese ride, but the idea is there - you could make a guard to protect against curb encounters..
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/CX_hatch/
I like the hood mount idea better, then again, it's easy for me to say cause I don't have to chop my hood or pay for parts.
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I am exploring the hood mount.
Also, after some testing. I can get my water temp to about 230, my egts will hit 1400 if i dont lift, and my turbo lights about 3500rpm, and hits about 15 psi.
Gunna try to get some more fuel in there with a little more timing to help the egts and light that turbo. so far, i am happy with the power. There is not a hill that slows me down. once i get the water methonal, that should be fun.
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I 100% agree with Arb.
But, cutting the hood and building a scoop to fit your IC would be difficult, to say the least...
You would need a method of detaching it easily OR a way of holding it in place - raised off the cam bleeder. the plumbing would be pretty straight forward though wouldn't it?
I like the hood idea but i think for performance Arb's link to the japo car is a best bet because of the air flow you would achieve and sarcrifice with a hood mount. (unless you had a huuuge scoop)
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its adjusting the idle as well. do i just back down the idle screw then?
Yeah, if you screw in the fuel screw to much you'll run out of idle adjustment, also if you crank the fuel screw in to much then it'll run away like dillenger1 said.
Quick question.. When you guys are talking about turning up the fuel screw and you say that if you do it.. the engine could start to run away.. what do you mean? like it will rev uncontrollably??
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Quick question.. When you guys are talking about turning up the fuel screw and you say that if you do it.. the engine could start to run away.. what do you mean? like it will rev uncontrollably??
Yup, it happened to me once, I had the idle set at 2000 so I could check the internal IP pressure and then I blipped the smoke pedal a bit and that thing took off. I thought it was blowby type runaway so I almost got out and yanked the breather hose off but then I turned the key off first just in case it was the missadjusted idle speed......it was. :roll:
Anyways I don't understand all about it but I think the throttle only controls the governor, which from what I understand is a low speed and high speed governor. So with the tranny in neutral once you push the pedal enough to get past the idle governor it'll rev all the way to the high speed governor. You gotta have the idle set low enough so it'll slow down when you let off the gas.
If I'm wrong hopefully someone'll chime in. :P
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WOW! these things are so much more liek in depth than i expected! thats insane.. so really your peddle is just allowing the engine to speed up its revs indirectly.. the peddle isnt directly making the car rev up!?
this is blowing my mind.... diesels are weird! LOL Like if the idle is set to high it will just keep going till it reaches its high governer.. but if you have it set low enough it will make it fall back down to idel.. so weird..
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so really your peddle is just allowing the engine to speed up its revs indirectly.. the peddle isnt directly making the car rev up!?
Directly indirect, the pedal controls the governor which controls the fueling. :?
There are lots of better writeups by other more knowledgeable people on this site and on www.vwdieselparts.com
Do some searches on both sites and you'll have enough to read for at least a year. :wink:
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I 100% agree with Arb.
But, cutting the hood and building a scoop to fit your IC would be difficult, to say the least...
You would need a method of detaching it easily OR a way of holding it in place - raised off the cam bleeder. the plumbing would be pretty straight forward though wouldn't it?
I like the hood idea but i think for performance Arb's link to the japo car is a best bet because of the air flow you would achieve and sarcrifice with a hood mount. (unless you had a huuuge scoop)
I have been trying to photoshop various hoodscoops. Not sure if i can justify it. Maybe if i turn my downpipe over and make a stack? I have the intercooler, because i got a good deal on it. i will make it work someway. no point in spending 500-800 on IC and piping, when i have something that can work.
I would probably hard mount it to the car and have the hood seal against it. Hood scoop doesnt look to bad, its just so far foward i think it looks kinda silly.