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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: zozie on October 07, 2008, 10:21:17 am
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Well my lovely mk1 decided to test my devotion to her :roll:
My IP just started to piss fuel on the back of it, leaking right on the engine. Susprisingly I started smelling diesel last night when I was sweeping the driveway and this morning after getting to wok I opened the hood and I had some very nice smoke coming off the block... She still runs fine but I decided that I'll rip the pump off and send it to Gile's for a treatment, along with the injectors while I'm at it.
So I now need to know what I should be getting since the IP's gonna come off, I might as well go with new timing belt, tensioner, valve cover gasket and what else?
thanx in advance
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Do you have the tools to re-time it? (Cam block, IP locking pin, dia indicator w/ extention)
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Water pump.
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Waterpump???? It's external and 2 months old btw
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Waterpump???? It's external and 2 months old btw
Well you didn't tell us you just replaced the water pump now did ya?
you asked for help with your list and the water pump is a standard replacement item when the engine is torn down as far as your going.
2 months old, it's prob ok.
What arb says as well, Timing tools?
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Yes I got those. But thank god I'm not the one putting it back on :shock:
I'd never dare. You don't know how I build :twisted: ....... I got a VW tech doing it. Damn... with this now this car has cost me just over 7k..... it's my 2nd wife.
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Get a rubber cam cover gasket if you can.
I'm glad i did. No leaks! No gasket maker!
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Oil pan gasket, might as well.
Cam, crank, intermediate shaft oil seals? Again, might as well. :D
How old are your engine mounts?
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Oil pan gasket, might as well.
Cam, crank, intermediate shaft oil seals? Again, might as well. :D
How old are your engine mounts?
just buy the whole engine seal kit, and it should come with all the necessary seals (and should be cheaper than buying them separately)... make sure its a half decent name though. i've found that buying the seals separately from the stealer can be quite expensive...
depending on how much money you want to spend on this car you could really go nuts. but if she runs just fine, why mess with it? are you getting a performance build, or just regular? it's not a turbo is it?
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Well the car has 160K and it s all original so I'll now get the mounts done, not sure abooot the seals as it doesn't leak, which is surprising cause before I got it it sat for 6 years in a garage....
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just buy the whole engine seal kit, and it should come with all the necessary seals (and should be cheaper than buying them separately)... make sure its a half decent name though. i've found that buying the seals separately from the stealer can be quite expensive...
As a guy who believes in doing jobs thoroughly, I support the notion of buying an entire seal kit.
I've never actually purchased parts individually from a dealership. Crap, I've never set foot inside the Parts and Service department of a VW dealership.
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Well so far everything I got for this thing except the exhaust came from the dealer.... I did put on aftermarket calipers and one of them was seized right out of the box so went and got new ones from the dealer. even a water pump for $320... I wanna keep it original but this time the pump is goin' to Gile's as the dealer quoted $1600 on it....
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Oil pan gasket, might as well.
Cam, crank, intermediate shaft oil seals? Again, might as well. :D
How old are your engine mounts?
just buy the whole engine seal kit, and it should come with all the necessary seals (and should be cheaper than buying them separately)... make sure its a half decent name though. i've found that buying the seals separately from the stealer can be quite expensive...
depending on how much money you want to spend on this car you could really go nuts. but if she runs just fine, why mess with it? are you getting a performance build, or just regular? it's not a turbo is it?
No turbo... I'm going for the "performance"rebuild in hopes of improving 0-100 acceleration from 49 secs to 45.5 :D :D :D
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Well so far everything I got for this thing except the exhaust came from the dealer.... I did put on aftermarket calipers and one of them was seized right out of the box so went and got new ones from the dealer. even a water pump for $320... I wanna keep it original but this time the pump is goin' to Gile's as the dealer quoted $1600 on it....
I would HIGHLY recomend contacting myke on the board for your parts.
He has really great prices even with shipping and gets OE stuff.
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=798
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make sure to change glow plugs while the pump is out if you need to that is...
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even a water pump for $320...
:shock: 24k gold plated???
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make sure to change glow plugs while the pump is out if you need to that is...
nonono... at LEAST remove them, inspect them, and then put anti seize on them so its not such a pain replacing them down the line. remember that these things can go at anytime... even replacing them doesn't guarantee they'll last unless you get Beru's which are a really good name.
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make sure to change glow plugs while the pump is out if you need to that is...
Well the pump and injectors are out on their way to Gile's.
Yes I need to do plugs as two of them are out of service.... Surprisingly my engine still started just fine I didn't notice anything at all :shock:
Anyways it's safe to say that this pump has not been times in a long time as we had to use "the force" to get it aoof once all the bolts were removed... Now I need to get the valve cover gasket, but not sure yet which one its gonna be cause I haven't taken it off yet and there are 2 for 84.
I'll post pix of the process, tho the pump removal vas a nice and quick process.
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Well we just did a compression check and 3 cylinders came between 497-501, and one at 489, while cold after 6 cranks. Should I be worried about the difference between the 3 and the 1?
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is that engine brand new?? mine starts and runs fine with 360,340,410 and 440.
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is that engine brand new?? mine starts and runs fine with 360,340,410 and 440.
I wish.... it's got 160km's on it. got it from first owner tho who maintained it and changed the oil every 3km. the mechanic pullig it aparts swears it's never been apart before and the injectors are original. Just putting uploading pix now.
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First pix of the surgery. Now is a good time to clean the engine as it was also rust proofed by prev. owner :roll:
http://s499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/zozie82/1984jettarepair
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Well so far everything I got for this thing except the exhaust came from the dealer.... I did put on aftermarket calipers and one of them was seized right out of the box so went and got new ones from the dealer. even a water pump for $320... I wanna keep it original but this time the pump is goin' to Gile's as the dealer quoted $1600 on it....
I would HIGHLY recomend contacting myke on the board for your parts.
He has really great prices even with shipping and gets OE stuff.
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=798
X2 myke has been great with me too.......VW dealer parts prices make me laugh!!!
$155 for a 2 notch head gasket!! :lol: (fiber) :lol:
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If I had those compression numbers I would be so happy. :shock: I checked mine about march of 2007 and they were like 365-380ish.
X2 on getting stuff from myke w, he's got a rubber valve cover gasket with studs for cheap.
If your oil pressure is getting low myke has a high volume oil pump that bumped my oil pressure up another 20PSI plus it has a better relief valve that stopped my cold oil pressure spikes.
BTW, AFAIK all 8V VWs have a interchangeable VC gasket.
Good idea on changing the engine mounts, since you got the IP out anyways.....
Another thing you might wanna do is make sure the surface on the VC were the gasket goes is flat, mine got all warped from overtightening the nuts and leaked even with a new gasket. Good luck
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Well the pump is now at performance diesel with the injectors. Gile does seem like a very nice guy and he really knows his stuff. Those never been there before, he's got a very nice sized shop will all the equip. one could think of and just when I got there, there was a pump being tested.
Can't wait to drive it when its all done next week 8) Maybe it will feel like a real car, maybe I'll even be able to beat a dumptruck or a citybus at the lite :twisted:
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What the hell's going on here?
Are you a sucker for spending money?
Clearly, with compression that good the vehicle has never been abused. Why the heck are you changing everything just for the sake of it? I have had 8 Quantums, [still have 3 1/2] and I only ever had one waterpump leak.
No 1 thing to remember, new replacement parts are rarely as good as the original.
A working glowplug should be left alone, unless you need to take it out specifically. Or its comrades have been regularly dieing. If it's melted then it wont work...
No need for a rubber gasket. They are definitely better, but not OEM which is what I seem to recall you wanting and all you need to do is flatten rocker cover back to its proper shape and it will not leak. Check oil filler seal. They quietly leak and allow oil to drift back along the cover under the reinforcing bar; and then let it drip over the block.
It's people like you keeping garage dealers in comfort in their Porsches... My dealer would be pushing a Jamaican Ice cart if he was relying on me :wink:
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Well I'm only doing the stuf I find neccessary. 2 plugs are dead, I'll do those. The engine mounts are clearly worn.....
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Gile does seem like a very nice guy and he really knows his stuff.
Yeah, but did you meet that jerk Tyler that works with him ??? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Well I'm only doing the stuf I find neccessary. 2 plugs are dead, I'll do those. The engine mounts are clearly worn.....
Dude I'm with you. When things are already apart imho it so much easier to clean everything up and head down the road in confidence.
Just my personal preference, but as an example I always replace all 4 glow plugs as a set... imho once one goes the rest are sure to follow (assuming they all came out of the Bosch factory around the same time approximately) and I hate wondering when the next one will decide to head south. You already have the buss bar off... already have the tools and at least one bruised set of knuckles... and the OEM ones are 11 bucks a pop. The ones that are still good become emergency spares or give-aways to friends in a bind.
Just my approach...
Vince
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$11????? the delaer said $50 each if I recall correctly. I'll prolly get some only cause the won't be going back together till mid next week.
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$11????? the delaer said $50 each if I recall correctly. I'll prolly get some only cause the won't be going back together till mid next week.
$50 ea!?!?!?! :shock:
I didn't pay that for all 4..
Your getting hosed again..
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$11????? the delaer said $50 each if I recall correctly. I'll prolly get some only cause the won't be going back together till mid next week.
$50 ea!?!?!?! :shock:
I didn't pay that for all 4..
Your getting hosed again..
:lol: :lol: :lol: I got a whole set of Duraterms for less than $50!
[They are used in 1980/90 Citroens Gawd bless Ebay...
I had about 2 years messing about with non-Bosch/Beru glowplugs lasting only a few months, before I slapped myself across the face :x Then, after I was determined to get some Duratherms at any price, those popped up. I only know of the Citroen match because my dad borrowed one of my plugs temporarily!...
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$11????? the delaer said $50 each if I recall correctly. I'll prolly get some only cause the won't be going back together till mid next week.
I've had really good service in Canada from Best Price Auto Parts which is actually Mark's Bug Barn outta Ontario... and as I look today their Bosch Duraterms are just under 10 bucks (http://catalog.worldpac.com/marks/wizard.jsp?header=http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/cdnheader.txt&footer=http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/cdnfooter.txt&partner=marks&clientid=importcarpartscanada.ca&baseurl=http://www.importcarpartscanada.ca/&cookieid=2HF0RWMPJ2HF0RWMPI&year=1992&make=VW&model=JET-D-001&category=All&part=Glow+Plug). Fast shipping and it's free for orders over $75... never seems to be a problem.
Best plug money can buy, IMHO. :wink:
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Thax I'll order them from the link you provided.
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$11????? the delaer said $50 each if I recall correctly. I'll prolly get some only cause the won't be going back together till mid next week.
I've had really good service in Canada from Best Price Auto Parts which is actually Mark's Bug Barn outta Ontario... and as I look today their Bosch Duraterms are just under 10 bucks (http://catalog.worldpac.com/marks/wizard.jsp?header=http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/cdnheader.txt&footer=http://www.bestpricecarparts.com/cdnfooter.txt&partner=marks&clientid=importcarpartscanada.ca&baseurl=http://www.importcarpartscanada.ca/&cookieid=2HF0RWMPJ2HF0RWMPI&year=1992&make=VW&model=JET-D-001&category=All&part=Glow+Plug). Fast shipping and it's free for orders over $75... never seems to be a problem.
Best plug money can buy, IMHO. :wink:
Do they have a web site ? I can only find the address and phone - 613-746-2378
Also, do you have a part number for these Bosch GP's ?
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Well I got the pump and injectors back from Performace diesel.
I can't wait to finish it now. The pump got completely cleaned and looks brand new as you can see on the pictures.
Can someone tell me how I can post full size pix from a link??
http://s499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/zozie82/1984jettarepair/
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you need to put the (http:// in the front of the pic tag then ) at the end of it.
(http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/zozie82/1984jettarepair/IMG_0475.jpg)
(http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/zozie82/1984jettarepair/IMG_0476.jpg)
(http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/zozie82/1984jettarepair/IMG_0477.jpg)
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wow, that's purdy :mrgreen:
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don't go to the dealer for stuff like that.. you need to find a cheaper alternative.
i would only go to the dealer for nuts & bolts. they are usually really cheap!
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drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool
auuuuugh that pump is SOOOOOOOO NICE
me like pump & injectors
*slobber*
IM getting hosed! i pay 20$ per glow plug and they keep burning out uncontrollably. I'll hit up those 10$ GPS and buy like 8
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drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool drool
auuuuugh that pump is SOOOOOOOO NICE
me like pump & injectors
*slobber*
IM getting hosed! i pay 20$ per glow plug and they keep burning out uncontrollably. I'll hit up those 10$ GPS and buy like 8
your a sick puppy smokey eddy!
by the way does your relay match your glow plugs there is fast and slow glow plugs and relays and it's not good to mix and match them!
could be your problem?
i've got a giles superpump on my shelf waiting for my next build!
and it is nice looking pump!
Duane
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Well I'm putting it back together today. I'm gonna do it myself cause after the pump and injectors and misc. stuff I don't have the $$$ to pay someone for it.... I'll let you know how it goes and how many bent valves I get due to my timing skills :twisted:
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Well she's all back together so I gotta figure out how to prime the pump cause I tried cranking it, but all I got was boobles, but I'll figure it out. Can I fill the pump manually on the return line??
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buy a out board boat motor bulb pump and install it in the line between the I.P. and the filter ! works the best to prime up the fuel!
Duane
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well I primed it manually by blowing air in the return line :oops:
and she fired right up. I'll take it for a run soon and let you know how Giles' pump is "pumping :P "
Cant wait :wink:
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yea i can't wait to hear how good that pump is!
i have one but not installed yet!
Duane
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Glad to hear you got it all timed up and running good.
We can get you OEM parts through the shop as well. www.autopartsonlinecanada.com and www.germanautoparts.com are also very good
PS don't listen to Vince, he can't be trusted :lol:
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Well it idles well :D but I still haven't driven it cause I'm just doing a CV boot, and going thru some electrical nitemare trying to fix the autoswitch of the cooling fan, changing oil after the pan gasket :oops: .... I'll let you know how it drives.
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Well I drove her home. To be honest I was really worried at the beginning cause when I stepped on it first, it looked like there was a small thermo nuclear explosion behind my tailpipe but it went away in a few minutes of running. All I can say is WOW. I don't really have anything to compare it to, cause this is my first N/A 1.6D and I'm not sure when my original (if ever) was timed and also got new injectors, but it's a different car. The only thing that worries me a bit is that its a bit louder than it was before, sounds much more diesel-ish if you know what I mean so I'll check the timing again tomorrow just to be sure(could be just due to the new injectors atomizing better thus burning quicker??????), but I can safely say its got twice the power it used to. I didt try top speed cause it illegal :twisted: plus friday rush hour traffic, but you it feels like the torque has increased big time!!!! It just goes right from idle, and I can say that it pulls dynamically in any gear. Well at least as good as a 1.6D can :oops:, plus it doesn't die as sonn as it used to in higher RPMs.
It feels like a totally different animal. But it does feel weird after driving my passat 1.8T for 2 weeks :wink:
Anyway I can say if you want your pump rebuilt, Giles is the way to go.
I'll have a mileage figure after the weekend.
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I know what you mean by the "dieselish" sound, my friends 1.6 NA sounds that way and I went through the pump 2x now to try to find the problem. I think I might have done something wrong with the advance, the first time around I really had to fight with it, the 2nd time I did mess with it again. The car is also a little low on torque and smokes a bit too much. This is the car that had the rebuilt pump installed that had two loose washers grinding around inside for 400 miles!
I'm positive it is timed right.
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The good thing tho like I said it's got twice the power then it used to before the rebuild.
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I did not mean to imply that your pump has a problem, I'm sure it was done to perfection, he is clearly a pro with these.
The engine I am dealing with sounds extremely "diesely", smokes and seems to lack power. I'm comparing it to my samurai 1.6 which ran very strong.
It's been a frustrating job, especially for my friend who has been with out this car for a while now. I must have screwed something up with that advance, I'm all out of other idea's. Were gonna take the pump out again tomorrow and look into the advance, something's not right since the lever does nothing to effect how it runs.
I am confident it is timed right (staticly), but maybe when running timing changes some how, I don;t know, it definitely sounds like a timing problem though.
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I have owned a 1.6na and a 1.6td. I noticed the diesel clatter increased or decreased based on max fueling settings.
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I have owned a 1.6na and a 1.6td. I noticed the diesel clatter increased or decreased based on max fueling settings.
that sounds almost like the idle increase when increasing the fueling... ideally you want retarded timing (as far as it will go) for idle... then as soon as you get going you want advanced. nice and quiet idle, but good power!