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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Ohiobenz on June 27, 2021, 10:17:15 am
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I have some years of background in Mk1/2 VW gasser but limited experience with the TD.
The Suzuki Samurai I recently purchased has a "recently rebuilt" '85 1.6 TD with a K14 turbo in it. So far I've removed the oil cooler due to leaks, added a remote oil filter, increased the fuel screw, adjusted the tapered boost plunger, blocked the BOV, and backed off the tension on the diaphragm.
I have a new CSF Passat/A4 IC that has ducted ram air through it.
This weekend I'm replacing the oil pump with a 36mm one and installing the ABA windage tray oil pan gasket.
Right now I'm running 12-18 psi at 3500 rpm with EGT in the low 900's F. When accelerating I see a boost in the mid to upper 20's with EGT in the low 1000's at 3800-4000 rpm, coolant temps around 213F.
As soon as I drop down in rpm/speed all temps drop back down. At low-speed city driving EGT is in the low 400's F.
I figure the head gasket life is not going to sustain these boost pressures for long. I try to keep it below 20 psi, but the waste gate appears to be frozen shut, and it gets there pretty quick with the K14, so ARP studs are ordered and I'm going to O-ring the block as I've done on my 16v gassers in the past. On the 16v I ran a steel shim head gasket... which head gasket would be recommended for an engine running my typical boost pressures?
My 2nd question is regarding the alternator tensioner bracket. It keeps breaking... The pulleys are aligned, the bottom bracket was part of the swap kit. The bolt to the block for the tensioner bracket has unthreaded once, broken once. The bolt on the alternator end has broken once. The bracket itself has cracked at the slot twice now. I switched to 10.9 flange head bolts and tightened every possible related fastener. I don't feel crazy vibrations when driving so can't seem to pinpoint the cause. The current bracket is a modified Summit Racing universal GM SBC bracket. Other than the Summit Racing bracket being low-quality steel, any suggestions?
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Can you put one of the alternators with the clutch pulley on it. That may take the initial torque away from the system and ease it in more modestly.
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I think its a vibration issue.
Right now I've got other issues...
Lack of fuel.... happened suddenly while going 60mph down the highway. Put in a clear fuel filter and it's not getting full, so a pickup tube blocked or the fuel pump just died...
Waiting on a tow truck after limping 90% of the way home :-(
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Your alternator bracket issues sound like the pivot end of the alternator is not being clamped properly. Post pics.
Running the K14 above ~18 psi is unwise, IMO.
'85 1.6TD would be a solid lifter engine, but confirm that. It matters regarding which head gasket to use.
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Don't know how to post/upload pics on here.
The pivot bolt is on my check list. Since the alternator is a GM CS3, the pivot hole may be in inch where the bracket is intended for a Samurai and probably metric.
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Tow trucks are expensive! I would have run it off a gas can and some hoses from the passengers' side floorboard.
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20 miles from home, and I made it all but 2...
Roadside assistance is part of my insurance coverage :-)
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I boost my 1.6D to 20psi pretty often, briefly, with my VNT-15 so the engine can handle that without any special head gasket.
I just put a new head gasket in it because the oil was getting into the coolant.
Not because the gasket went bad and blew air into the coolant.
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If I'm on a long uphill stretch I will see 20+ psi the entire time, unless I slow down.
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To clarify, when I said it was unwise to run a K14 above ~18 psi, it is not out of a concern that any particular damage would result, but rather that above that point you're going to be somewhat pointlessly inefficient. If you want to run higher boost, than that, then the k14 is a poor choice, IMO.
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The swap from K24 to K14 was done by the previous owner. The basic intended use for this Samurai is a tow vehicle behind my 4wd 2.5T Expedition rig, with offroad trail exploration away from camping locations, supply runs into civilization during longterm camping at a site, and of course as emergency backup vehicle.
The quick spool of the K14 suits those demands well.
Right now I do highway runs in order to determine reliability.
My question about a headgasket choice is with regards to reliability as well. Most engines I have built in the past were upgraded to ARP hardware. Since that is one of the next items on the list a good headgasket for my setup at that time is a no brainer.
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I forget that some folks opt for that coverage on their policies. I don't cause I don't leave the county much and have backup tow rigs.
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Which gasket did you use?
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"'85 1.6TD would be a solid lifter engine, but confirm that. It matters regarding which head gasket to use. "
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Single bump
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Confirm which engine you have if you want any further recommendation on what head gasket to use.
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85 1.6 TD, Single bump head, as posted earlier.
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I took your post "single bump" as an attempt to bump the thread and not as an answer to the question that was asked. Interestingly enough if you had said 'solid lifter' it would have actually answered the question and avoided the double meaning.
The only stock option is the fiber gasket. If you want to use an MLS gasket you will either need to block the offending cooling channels or get a custom gasket.
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On past 16v builds I ran the steel gasket and O-ringed the block. That was a great combo for boost.
Does anyone have experience with an O-ringed block and a stock fiber gasket?