Author Topic: My 1992 Ecodiesel is done  (Read 7745 times)

Reply #15June 21, 2007, 02:16:12 pm

jackbombay

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Re: My 1992 Ecodiesel is done
« Reply #15 on: June 21, 2007, 02:16:12 pm »
Quote from: "larry104"

jackbombay,
sent you a pm.
larry


  Thanks, I called them but they were super busy, I sent them an e-mail but have yet to get a response.

Reply #16June 21, 2007, 02:23:44 pm

rallydiesel

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My 1992 Ecodiesel is done
« Reply #16 on: June 21, 2007, 02:23:44 pm »
Just curious about the k14 with TD pump. Does it feel faster at low rpm than a K24 car? Does the K14 bolt on easily to a regular TD engine or do you have to do some kind of manifold fabrication?

Anybody know if the k14 off a 1.9 will fit on the 1.6?
2006 Jetta TDI - gtb1749v, Malone 2, Frank's Titan 2 cam, VR6 clutch....
1991 Jetta TD - sold :(
2001 Golf TDI - Son's
1981 Rabbit - BEW tdi swap project

"ONCE YOU GO CLACK, YOU NEVER GO BACK"

Reply #17June 21, 2007, 04:09:15 pm

larry104

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My 1992 Ecodiesel is done
« Reply #17 on: June 21, 2007, 04:09:15 pm »
Quote from: rallydiesel
Just curious about the k14 with TD pump. Does it feel faster at low rpm than a K24 car? Does the K14 bolt on easily to a regular TD engine or do you have to do some kind of manifold fabrication?

Anybody know if the k14 off a 1.9 will fit on the 1.6?


I've not owned a TD with a K24 to compare, but I'd expect the K14 would respond faster with less lag because it's smaller. My car came with the K14 so no mods were needed. Someone here can likely answer your questions about a turbo swap. I've read here that putting a K24 on a K14 manifold requires some clearancing for the exhaust scroll. My guess is a K14 would bolt right on a K24 manifold without mods.

Reply #18June 25, 2007, 01:28:30 pm

punkvideo81

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My 1992 Ecodiesel is done
« Reply #18 on: June 25, 2007, 01:28:30 pm »
Nice ride!
'81 Caddy 1.6 TD

Reply #19July 28, 2007, 04:52:16 am

larry104

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« Reply #19 on: July 28, 2007, 04:52:16 am »
I just checked mileage yesterday. Combined city/hiqhway (65 to 80 mph) driving with about 50% A/C-on is 44 mpg. I haven't done an all-highway road trip yet, but I'm hoping to push 50 mpg. I love it. WAY better performance than the stock state of tune but the same mileage.  :mrgreen:

Reply #20July 28, 2007, 07:32:13 am

myke_w

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My 1992 Ecodiesel is done
« Reply #20 on: July 28, 2007, 07:32:13 am »
where does one find this intercooler setup?
ME WANTEE!!!!
Contact me for hard to find for idi and tdi parts


Reply #21July 28, 2007, 08:43:18 pm

larry104

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« Reply #21 on: July 28, 2007, 08:43:18 pm »
Quote from: "myke_w"
where does one find this intercooler setup?
ME WANTEE!!!!


Pure happenstance. A guy was selling an m-TDI on Ebay with a GTD intercooler. I emailed him and he happen to have one more GTD intercooler laying around. I bought it on the spot. It had the plastic inlet and bracket (which I couldn't use because my car has air). I ended up welding a stud to the radiator fan shroud. Works well. I fabbed the rest of the inlet and battery cover out of UHDPE. The tubes are made from 2" aluminum mandrel bends with silicone adapters.

Reply #22July 28, 2007, 09:02:12 pm

larry104

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My 1992 Ecodiesel is done
« Reply #22 on: July 28, 2007, 09:02:12 pm »
Quote from: "libbybapa"
I would change the thermal switch to the intercooler outlet rather than the inlet.  If it is at the inlet, then the fan will run any time there is boost regardless of the natural airflow through the intercooler.  If it were placed at the outlet, the fan would only run when the flow natural flow through the intercooler was not adequate to cool it off.  That way you would save fuel (the fuel required to drive the alt to generate the added fan current) and extend the life of the fan with no downside.

Andrew

I figured by the time the outlet reached 120 F, the intercooler would be heat soaked, which is why I put it on the inlet. The switch mounts on the outside surface touching the tubes. If I had a switch with a separate thermocouple probe that measured the actual outlet flow temp, and not the surface, I would agree. But the problem might then be that the fan would cycle on and off every time you goosed it. Attaching the switch to the IC body integrates out the temperature spikes. I have a relay in the circuit because the thermal switch can't reliably handle the 5 amps that the fan draws. I think the relay is more likely to fail than the fan. Interestingly, the fan has come on only once that I know of. And that was on a hot day when the under hood temps were high. I wouldn't have guessed that this intercooler setup works as well as it does without a fan. Apparently a lot of air can get around the headlight.

Reply #23August 02, 2007, 07:46:51 am

larry104

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« Reply #23 on: August 02, 2007, 07:46:51 am »
Quote from: "libbybapa"
That way you would save fuel (the fuel required to drive the alt to generate the added fan current) and extend the life of the fan with no downside.

Andrew


Andrew, I thought about what you said. The fan draws 5A at 12 Vdc = 60 W or 60/746 = 0.08 hp. Assuming the alternator is 50% efficient, that's 0.16 hp drawn from the engine. I probably wouldn't notice the economy hit, even if the fan were to run continuously.

Reply #24August 03, 2007, 05:04:43 am

larry104

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« Reply #24 on: August 03, 2007, 05:04:43 am »
Quote from: "libbybapa"
Well, there you have it, no need for a thermoswitch at all and as you said earlier likely no need for a fan either.

Andrew


Yep. All the talk about heat soak had me a little concerned, which is why I installed the fan. No reason to yank it now other than saving a pound or two. I might put an LED indicator in the dash just to verify how often it runs.