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#15
by
lord_verminaard
on 09 Sep, 2006 05:40
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Whats your twin charge idea? Blower to snail?
Yep. Not sure which blower or what type at the moment. A centrifugal would be nice because of the relatively small space but they are known to be very inefficient. I was thinking an Eaton roots-type from a GM 3800 SC would work well but space may be a factor. I'd love to have a lysholm but there's that whole money thing. (the reason why I dont even have the engine yet!!!!!) I'm thinking blower to small intercooler, like the stock TDI one- to the turbo, up to the gutted rain tray into an air-water intercooler, then back down to the fabbed intake. This keeps the total amount of tubing quite short and the air should be fairly cool as well. I've got some sketches and have made some measurements and it looks like it would really be pretty simple.
But this isnt about me, it's about the guy who actually has the hardware in his hands. Carry on! I'll be watching! :twisted:
Brendan
84 Scirocco 8v
00 Camaro L36 M49
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#16
by
greggearhead
on 12 Sep, 2006 10:56
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Centrifugal superchargers are VERY efficient (in terms of adiabatic efficiency). Much better than roots style etc.
935Racer - sounds like a great project. Keep us updated of the progress!
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#17
by
dubCanuck1
on 12 Sep, 2006 11:17
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#18
by
935racer
on 12 Sep, 2006 20:47
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#19
by
Benjamin
on 13 Sep, 2006 00:10
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nice pics
What is the benefit of polished rods?? :oops: (i assume you also have to balande them?)
Greetz, Benjamin
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#20
by
greggearhead
on 13 Sep, 2006 09:35
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Polished rods have fewer sharp edges and therefore fewer stress risers, or places where failure might occur. Really need to shot-peen them, too.
Nice polish job.
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#21
by
2mAn
on 13 Sep, 2006 10:35
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wow! i cant wait til im up in seattle, im going to have to drive out to PP and see what the deal is hands on
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#22
by
935racer
on 13 Sep, 2006 11:02
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Yep polishing the rods gets rid of stress risers left from the forging process, the main thing is that large ridge left on the beam, that really needs to get blended out, most people leave the center section of the rod, but I have the tools to do it all so I will. And yes the rods need to be shot peened afterwards, I will do that later this week and maybe even cryo the rods. I will likely also resize them with ARP hardware and put new bushings in as well balance the rods.
Remember that when you polish rods ALWAYS polish/sand with the length of the rod, never across, this will create different stress risers weakening the rod. You have be super careful polishing rods or you really will make them much worse than were originally. Its a job for steady hands and an ELECTRIC die grinder, if you have head porting tooling and experience you'll be fine, if not do your homework and practice on some scrap rods first.
Thanks for the props
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#23
by
macsdub
on 13 Sep, 2006 20:21
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arp doesnt make rod bolts
well,they said they would make custom ones for me
unless something has changed since i built my engine ,there are no aftermarket rod bolts avalable for tdi's
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#24
by
935racer
on 13 Sep, 2006 21:49
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I know they have a few watercooled rod bolts to choose from, I was hoping one of them would fit the tdi rods, I havent gotten to that point yet however but I will post my findings here when the time comes.
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#25
by
greggearhead
on 14 Sep, 2006 09:03
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Raceware might have some too - haven't checked in a long time.
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#26
by
Benjamin
on 06 Oct, 2006 10:54
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Yep polishing the rods gets rid of stress risers left from the forging process, the main thing is that large ridge left on the beam, that really needs to get blended out, most people leave the center section of the rod, but I have the tools to do it all so I will. And yes the rods need to be shot peened afterwards, I will do that later this week and maybe even cryo the rods. I will likely also resize them with ARP hardware and put new bushings in as well balance the rods.
Remember that when you polish rods ALWAYS polish/sand with the length of the rod, never across, this will create different stress risers weakening the rod. You have be super careful polishing rods or you really will make them much worse than were originally. Its a job for steady hands and an ELECTRIC die grinder, if you have head porting tooling and experience you'll be fine, if not do your homework and practice on some scrap rods first.
is this all you need to know before you begin on the polish job?
oh, wich tool did you use on the electric die grinder (how hard/soft, dont know the right word in english :oops: )
Are polished conrods a must-have when you going for big power block?
or is this just a little bit better than stock?
Greetz, Benjamin
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#27
by
macsdub
on 08 Oct, 2006 07:35
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you dont "need"polished rods
its just when you are going for it all,its added insurance against breakage hopefully
