1Y Head Gasket or Oil Cooler?

[libbydiesel]

How did you determine that the block is warped?  How warped is it?

[intramural]

How did you determine that the block is warped?  How warped is it?

Originally I took it to the local VW machine shop, they wouldn't even look at it and sent me down the street to a different shop. The guy at that shop was fairly helpful and he put a machinist straight edge on it and shined a flashlight from underneath and determined it was warped. He didn't say how bad.

Now, today I am taking it to an, apparently more reputable, machine shop and I will see what they say. A guy I know has had them clean hone and deck some IDI blocks. So we'll see.

In the meantime... AYAYAY! It seems like there is no such thing as a correct answer. I called a local TDI specialist who is highly recommended on TDIclub about my situation he was very kind and helpful. He basically said this whole thing was ***ed and I'm asking for far too much power from "yestertech."

Then I called Thomas at quality German and he was like "meh I wouldn't even replace the prechambers its a pain in the ass." I also found out he is out of new heads.

Was the tdi guy right? It was my understanding that this AAZ setup I am running is actually fairly common and reliable. Cheers.

[intramural]

The more reputable machine shop measured the head actually using feeler gauges and the 2.5mm *(edit 0.0025)* feeler was still catching on the straight edge. By my understanding that's well within spec. So I think I am going to keep using this head.

This leaves me with the prechambers. I read some posts on the prechambers that are pretty old, and I am having trouble finding good info about replacing them. How difficult is it really? can I just knock them out with a punch via the injector hole and then tap new ones in with a block of wood?

[libbydiesel]

You said the block was warped.  Are you talking about the head or the block?  I thought you left the block in the vehicle and removed the head from it.

2.5mm warp sounds like a LOT.  I briefly looked for a spec (thought there was one) but couldn't find it.  I've hand lapped heads with good results but I don't think I have removed 2.5mm.  That Topline head looks like a good deal to me.  You could certainly use your cam and valve springs.  Maybe the valves also although they may not be the same.  I'd investigate replacement valves before purchasing just to be sure they are available.   

How much power are you trying to make with the engine?  How much boost are you running?  The IDI engines are relatively reliable.  TDI engines are more reliable, give better torque and better fuel economy, but the IDI engines are decent.  Who was the

[intramural]

Gahh! I'm sorry to waste your time. I need to proof read my posts better! Too much coffee this morning.

The 0.0025 feeler guages were not clearing the straight edge on my HEAD. I hope that clears things up.

*edit*

I don't have a specific HP target. I had Giles do the pump but specifically mentioned that my goal was fuel economy and reliability. I am running 10psi of boost no inter-cooler.

[libbydiesel]

0.0025" warp is fine. 

I would replace the pre-combustion chamber (PCC) inserts if you can purchase new ones.

I would not have someone machine the head as it can loosen the PCC inserts.  I would choose to hand lap the head instead of having it machined.

From your description of the power you are pushing from the engine, it should reliably last a good long time. 

[intramural]

Perfect that's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for walking me through this.

Based off how this vehicle drives I would be surprised if I am getting more than the 75HP its rated for. Perhaps I am getting 80 HP.

I am not sure if I want to wait to get the pre combustion chambers from Europe, or if I feel comfortable replacing them. I am worried that I might loosen up the seats knocking them out. At this point I am leaning towards buying a new head if I can source one. If this was my weekend car and I had no problem doing this all over again I might consider trying to replace the pre chambers... but it's not and I am ready to get back on the road and be confident in the head I put on there.

[fatmobile]

 Prechambers from a 1.5 head will fit.

[intramural]

Good to know. I have searched around and nobody has a good engine head. Now I am thinking that I am better off replacing my pre-chambers and calling it good. The ones from parts place are made in Taiwan... better than china, but I don't think its worth $1000 which is what they want for them. They are made by a company called ARCO.

[intramural]

I called parts place back and I guess the guy who I was talking to didn't know they also had amc heads. So I bought one of those.

I'll probably sell my old one to somebody who feels better about replacing the inserts.

[intramural]

Hey all. I know you all have been sitting around thinking about my thread so I figured I would give you an update . I had a family emergency come up. So I haven't touched the caddy.

The new AMC head and small parts are all here. I am thinking I will put the new head on on Friday. I am also going to add an out front air to air inter-cooler.

Side note I have an AHU thats running pretty badly and was thinking about parting it out if libby was interested in the pump/injectors for mtdi purposes.

[intramural]

Hey All. So its been a busy few weeks for me, but I was finally able to get back to putting this all together.

I got the head and all the Gaskets etc on just fine and dandy. Then it was time to do the timing belt and I noticed I have some in/out (axial?) play on my intermediate shaft pulley. Arrrrg!

Id say its about 1mm of in out play. Is this normal?

...or is it more likely my dad and I installed the old timing belt too tight and now the bearings are shot? please help me... I am about to just push this thing off a damn cliff.

[ORCoaster]

How many miles on the engine?  IF it is not leaking I think it would be good enough to go as is. 

[intramural]

How many miles on the engine?  IF it is not leaking I think it would be good enough to go as is. 

Thanks for the reply OR. I have no idea how many miles. My dad ordered it from Thomas at quality before he ran it. ...supposedly less than 100k miles.

No leaks from the intermediate shaft at all. No leaks/play in the injection pump pulley at all either.

I was thinking about popping off the intermediate shaft thrust ring, and if that looks good just calling it good.

[libbydiesel]

The spec for axial play on the intermediate shaft is 0.25mm.  1.0 is a LOT and 4X spec!  Measure so you know for sure.  Excessive axial play on the intermediate shaft usually means is that the thrust ring on the shaft is broken.  If that is the case, then no, that's not ok to run as is.  Running with the thrust ring broken runs a very serious risk of ruining/breaking/throwing the timing belt.

To be clear, what I am calling the 'thrust ring' is a machined lip of the outer bearing journal of the intermediate shaft.  The part that bolts onto the block and holds the intermediate shaft in place, I call the intermediate shaft seal carrier.