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#60
by
westcoaster
on 04 Mar, 2009 00:14
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I'll let you know how this works in my suzuki samurai....
It's real, it's cheap, and it's simple.
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#61
by
BGA
on 28 Mar, 2009 05:25
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Wonderful thread. I have nearly finished my mTDI AFN-based build. For monthts my brain has worked on the problem: how to use the nicely built in vw sensor. Biased more to mechanics than electronics I knew that filling two gaps on the sensorwheel with steel would do the job. Not nice work wih an assembled engine! I knew that a divider by two would do the jobb. This and a device to protect it from spikes is all I knew on the electronicall side of it, so now I look forward to Smokey Eddys solution. The vw sensor (G28) has three terminals.1 and 2 is the coil and I guess 3 is grounding the capsule. I connected 1 and 2 to a volvo/yazaki gasser tacho and tested it on my lathe and it showed correct and stabel rpm.
Bo Gunnar
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#62
by
jimbote
on 31 Mar, 2009 09:02
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Wonderful thread. I have nearly finished my mTDI AFN-based build. For monthts my brain has worked on the problem: how to use the nicely built in vw sensor. Biased more to mechanics than electronics I knew that filling two gaps on the sensorwheel with steel would do the job. Not nice work wih an assembled engine! I knew that a divider by two would do the jobb. This and a device to protect it from spikes is all I knew on the electronicall side of it, so now I look forward to Smokey Eddys solution. The vw sensor (G28) has three terminals.1 and 2 is the coil and I guess 3 is grounding the capsule. I connected 1 and 2 to a volvo/yazaki gasser tacho and tested it on my lathe and it showed correct and stabel rpm.
Bo Gunnar
Sweet!!!....cant wait to see the final result...
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#63
by
jimbote
on 31 Mar, 2009 09:10
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still working perfectly!!!!
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#64
by
regcheeseman
on 01 Jun, 2009 10:06
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so is mine!
I tried the 'latch' method as the first way to crack this problem. I believe the ratio using UK spec pulleys was close enough 1:10 - the rest could be dialled in with the cal pot.
I used a 'divide by 10' 4017 chip, circuit worked fine on the lab bench. However the W term was too noisy.
I could have used some signal processing on the front end and further signal conditioning on the output to get a decent 12v square wave out.
As for the auxillery pick up method - it's not factory - adds engine bay clutter and wasn't the reason for this post. Might be nice to tap the bell housing and pickup on the flywheel. Could also work as TDC detection...
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#65
by
lord_verminaard
on 02 Jun, 2009 10:04
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still working perfectly!!!!
Good to know! I have a question- since you are using two nuts 180 degrees out on the crank, it would be feasible then if you were driving the tach with the intermediate shaft or camshaft pulley that you would use 4 "pickups" instead of two, since it turns at half the speed?
Brendan
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#66
by
jimbote
on 06 Jun, 2009 16:20
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still working perfectly!!!!
Good to know! I have a question- since you are using two nuts 180 degrees out on the crank, it would be feasible then if you were driving the tach with the intermediate shaft or camshaft pulley that you would use 4 "pickups" instead of two, since it turns at half the speed?
Brendan
Yes Brendan you would need four (4) "poles" for any shaft running half speed of the crank for and accurate tach signal....Jimmy
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#67
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 02 Aug, 2009 10:23
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Hi jimbote, I just got CE1 gasoline cluster with a tach which has a fuel gauge on the bottom. I will try to make it fit it my cluster which is a CE2. Looks like I have to custom wire the tach which has a 4 pin connector(only 3 pins used). Did you wire the tach to the voltage stabilizer or direct to 12V ?
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#68
by
lusob
on 04 Aug, 2009 15:40
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Anybody have idea how to install tacho from golf 2 GTI with MFA to golf 2 diesel?
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#69
by
Elwood
on 04 Sep, 2009 16:45
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Really? I can only see the last two of circuit boards. I imagine there should be a wiring diagram?
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#70
by
Elwood
on 05 Sep, 2009 10:40
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what? why are you being indirect?
The original post talks about wiring, and has gaps in it where I believe images should be. I quote the post, and can see the image links for the missing images, but they do not load. Therefore, there should be more images in the original post, most likely wiring diagrams!
All I'm asking is for someone who has them load to rehost them on another website so I can wire up my speedo! Why are you being so difficult?
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#71
by
regcheeseman
on 15 Sep, 2009 06:49
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Didn't realise they were missing, I'm guessing the IT fascists at my previous workplace have cleared the stash of files that I'd hidden on one of their servers
Send me your email address on PM and I'll send direct. I'm not in a position to rehost for a few days as my homehub has gone tats up. As soon as I do, I'll change the links in the original post
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#72
by
clyde
on 17 Sep, 2009 01:06
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I'd like to see schematics of the VDO tach. Particularly if you have one for the GLI single-plug cluster with MFA. Years 1988 through 1992/
Seems a lot cleaner to change a few electronic parts on a circuit board than to make mods and fasten sensors IF the signal from the W terminal will drive a modified gas tach!
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#73
by
regcheeseman
on 17 Sep, 2009 09:23
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IF the signal from the W terminal will drive a modified gas tach!
No 'IF' about it - no body has bothered doing it for your mk2 set of clocks for the obvious reason that you can buy a mk2 with a diesel tacho (i.e. GL, GTD and GT models) why would you bother converting a set?
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#74
by
regcheeseman
on 17 Sep, 2009 09:39
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Pics now back on - cannot find biobill.pcb which is an annoted view of westmoreland pcb with yellow highlighted tracks and component IDs.
Biobill can you help?