Engine that's been sitting

[RunninWild]

Does anyone have a link to a guide on how to inspect the oil pump? Or can someone attach the page from the Bentley if there is one? Just took one of my "junk" pumps apart and it looks like I'll be able to clean it up nicely. Not sure what to look at in relation to how well it will work or not.

1 of them is a 36mm pump. It has some corrosion on the vanes and wear on the cap. I can feel the grooves worn into the cap with my finger. Is it worth wet sanding the vanes and polishing them up or is this just garbage as is? Spinning it by hand there is a slight amount of resistance on one set of teeth but in general spins smoothly.

[ORCoaster]

I will see if I can photo the Bentley pages.  Better yet I will just scan them.  Can't be more than three.

Only needed to snap two and the other page was an explode of the entire engine.  Not what you need. 

[vanbcguy]

The K24 doesn't spool till pretty late, if you aren't taking advantage of the 2500-4500 band you won't have much fun.  It basically doesn't make any boost at all till around 1800 RPM and doesn't make any significant amount till 2200 or so.  Ideally you have a gov mod (which you should already given you have a Giles pump) at which point you've got 2500-5500 to work with.  Good times happen at high RPM.

[RunninWild]

Thanks for posting that orcoaster. I'll get some feeler gauges and measure it Out.

1 question I do have. If you are measuring axial play in relation to the deck of the housing then wouldn't the wear marks in the cap be an issue? I'm assuming from that alone I probably need a new pump? Both caps I have have ridges worn into them however the 30mm cap isn't as bad as the 36mm. They look the same so I'm assuming they are interchangeable. I'm guessing it wouldn't hurt to glue some sandpaper to a thick flat piece of steel and slide the cap back and forth until the ridges are gone like is done in those "resurface your head at home" videos on YouTube.

I think the plan is to track down a k14. High rpm isn't bad but the amount of boost it makes at highway speed isn't very useable. I'm thinking it would be better all around to be at max boost by 3500rpm +/-.

Is it worth even trying to modify the exhaust to fit the k04 I have or is that just way too small?

I think the end game is to get a holset but that probably won't happen until next summer.

[ORCoaster]

Wear marks in the cap are an issue but I think you can pretty much get them out with oiled sandpaper ( 400 grit or higher) on glass or steel doing figure 8s with the pattern.  That way your balanced with how you remove material.  I use the same pattern for any type of fine removal of this sort.  I did the exact thing to my pump and it was fine. 

[theman53]

The K24 doesn't spool till pretty late, if you aren't taking advantage of the 2500-4500 band you won't have much fun.  It basically doesn't make any boost at all till around 1800 RPM and doesn't make any significant amount till 2200 or so.  Ideally you have a gov mod (which you should already given you have a Giles pump) at which point you've got 2500-5500 to work with.  Good times happen at high RPM.

I had a k24 on my car for a while...

If you have a ported head, giles pump, and the k24 the k24 is TOO SMALL. I could make 10-15 psi in neutral with no load. I had a 3" downpipe and 3" all the way back, but 2.5" would be fine. Run a decent downpipe and it will start making boost off idle. It will not reach 24psi until about 2800 rpm but that is the deal here. The k24 is NOT a "big" turbo, running over stock boost it is almost already out of the efficiency on the map. They seem to take 20psi well but still it is an old design. The best thing you can do is take it to a rebuilder like xsboostturbochargers.com and have him rebuild it and put the 360 bearing in it. Mine had the traditional 270 and still would spool fine. The T3 that I had with the 360 bearing was at least 2x faster than the stock bearing at building boost and it will help the turbo live.

Just please stop saying the fault of the laggy boost is the k24's fault. It isn't. it is the downpipe mainly, then you need fuel and the ported head won't hurt.

[RunninWild]

Maybe my turbo is pooched then because I have a flange from the turbo going into a straight 2.5" pipe with only a resonator and it is very laggy. my exhaust only has 3 90 degree bends, I doubt there is much if any resitrictions. The downpipe literally comes straight out of the turbo then bends around the tranny and then down and out. My head isn't ported but I don't see how porting could lower the spool time that much. I don't have a working tach but it feels like the turbo doesn't really kick in until around 3500rpm. It does throw you back in the seat at that point though. Maybe I just need to up the boost. Is it worth playing with a mbc before I get a boost gauge, or is the exhaust temp enough information that I can adjust it safely?

Just called napa and a new oil pump is only $85, he didn't know if it's 36mm but that's a lot less then I was expecting. Now to just track down some im shaft bearings and a few seals.

[theman53]

You said "My head isn't ported but I don't see how porting could lower the spool time that much."

Granted it isn't as bad as the video but you get the idea...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEkWH8DB7b0

The 360 bearing does the most for spool time after the exhaust, but with head porting it reduces restriction and lets the heat out faster, which spools faster. Make a video of driving as I don't think you really know what is going on with this engine. A video might help. It could be as simple as your LDA spring is set so you are not getting the fuel until 7 psi. You don't have enough gauges to diagnose much. You really have a Pandora's box of questions from me every time you have another problem. Please, help me help you. It shouldn't be this bad.

[RunninWild]

Well I have a multi gauge that displays like everything it's just not very accurate from what I've seen and my map sensor doesn't work.
I have egt, oil pressure, oil temp, coolant temp, volt.

You're probably right about the lda spring, I believe the pump was built for 25psi so running stock boost isn't ideal. When i saw the boost really kicks in i get a big puff of black smoke from the exhaust as well. Its off the road for the moment. I'll post some videos when I get the oil pressure issue resolved and out insurance back on.

[theman53]

How does the turbo shaft spin with a 270 bearing and little to no oil?

 Ans: Not very well.

Your oil pressure could be part of your lag issue, the shaft has to have oil to float and rotate well. If it doesn't you are killing that shaft and turbo as well as having poor boost.

[RunninWild]

I've been thinking and doing a bit more research of what I'm going to do with this. I don't want to get too involved in tearing the engine apart, but I think my best bet is to replace the main and im shaft bearings and inspect the pump without pulling the engine.

Does anyone know if  there is an easy way to tell what size main bolts I would have short of pulling them and measuring? I believe it's a earlier model aaz and came with the older style injection pump. In assume I would have the shorter bolts then correct?

If I have the shorter 60mm bolts would studs be a safe option or is it still worth drilling and tapping to give the studs more meat to grab onto?

I've read a couple of times that the holes are drilled long enough most of the time and they just need to be tapped longer. Is that true? Is it even possible to drill them longer and tap them by hand without removing the engine?

I've also been thinking about my egt a bit. I took out my lda pin when I first got the pump and I remember it  having a very agressive slope cut into it by giles. I believe my smoke issue under boost and the high temps are 100% caused by a lack of boost. At this point I either need a new stock pin (boring) or to get a functioning boost gauge, intercooler and crank it up! I believe the pump was made for around 25psi. Would a tdi intercooler be able to handle a lot of boost without blowing the end tanks? I don't have much room for an intercooler and I'm playing with the idea of a small tube style awic from eBay but I'm not sure how effective they are?

[theman53]

your lack of boost isn't a lack of fuel. you don't have the turbo spinning because you have no oil pressure. You are killing it by cobbling it together. Fix the oil pressure first then report back

[RunninWild]

Like I said before it's parked until I resolve the oil issue. I was also saying the boost issue is more related to too much fuel from the lda. I'm starting to think the "kick" I feel is the lda opening up as it happens the same time as a big puff of black smoke, and not so much the boost "kicking in".

[theman53]

the more fuel you have the more boost, but your turbo is not boosting because of oil, not lack of fuel.

[RunninWild]

Can anyone confirm the part number for the main studs? Are they the same as the alh studs? I've only found mention of 202-5401 and 202-5402 which are both listed for nissans. Dark side developments has it for alh and lists aaz as being compatible, but they don't list the part number and I would prefer to order locally.