90% of my cooling system is new. I'm using a bunch of hoses from random vehicles that are recommended from the company that makes the swap kit. I'm using a 26" radiator from a vw quantum that I got with the used kit but the rad looks practically new. The only Sami parts is my heater core. This system worked before I changed the head and the water pump housings. My fans were underpowered but it was at least able to circulate coolant and only ever had problems ripping up long hills on the highway.
I don't see what it can be other then the housing. Everything was working previously. The only new addition that's unknown compatibility is the housing and water pump. I'm really thinking that's my issue. I just have a new car now and this is on the backburner until spring.
Just to keep the information all tied up.
My son called this weekend with news that the Dasher we were struggling with last summer was now pumping water as it should. He tested the thermostats as I had done and determined they both worked. But neither one provided cooling to happen and the engine just boiled over. There was some amount of water streaming into the overflow but not strong pressure as I would have liked to see.
So how did he make it work? He finally stopped buying new waterpumps and just picked up on an older style housing. That did the trick as it is indeed shaped differently and the impeller is closer to the housing causing it to pull or push more. He said it now cycles as it should and it was the pictures in this thread that got him to check it out as he did.
So way to go guys. A fix to a fellow VW owner that isn't even part of the clan.
Thanks
Glad it helped. I've been told by a few people the difference shouldn't effect flow. I guess mine was caused by that as well as a bad location for the tee into my overflow preventing the heater core from bleeding properly.