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#15
by
RabbitJockey
on 09 Feb, 2015 07:40
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I think the port job is almost as important as the pump.
also, i think its more important to do down around the valve seat and bowl, than it is to open up where the manifold bolts on, they say the most important parts are 1" before and 1" after the valve seat. the 1" before doesn't really apply to us since our valves are almost even with the deck, but on gas engines with the combustion chamber in the head its important to clear up any valve shrouding.
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#16
by
shelbot
on 09 Feb, 2015 10:21
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#17
by
Dakotakid
on 09 Feb, 2015 10:44
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Were there supposed to be some photos showing?
Hey, where the heck is Nanaimo? Is that where Robin Williams was from in "Mork and Mindy?"
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#18
by
shelbot
on 09 Feb, 2015 14:10
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I edited the photos so they should be working now. Nanaimo is 120km North of Victoria BC and 25km West over the ocean from Vancouver BC. Gorgeous place but I think I seen about 100mm of rain before 12 in the afternoon today lol!
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#19
by
vanbcguy
on 09 Feb, 2015 15:38
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I'm constantly watching the weather radar around here and thanking Nanaimo for taking one for the team... 😀
Pictures are working fine now.
The cam caps are usually pretty sharp on the edges but there shouldn't be anything projecting. What did the old cam look like? Is that the original cap?
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#20
by
shelbot
on 09 Feb, 2015 16:17
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Original caps yes and the cam has no scoring, chips or pitting unlike my 91 cam which seems almost as it may have met a valve at some point or sat flat to create pitting but only on one lobe?
The machinist said besides the thrust bearing(s) and the intermediate shaft bearing this engine could have just used some rings, valve guides, and a scrub a dub and it would have been great to go for another 500K by how well I have treated it.
My Jetta has seen 3 owners prior to me and I know the hippy girl that I purchased it from did NOT take care of this car one bit. The first oil change was amazing. The fuel filter was also 2 years past it's replacement date.
The trans(AUG code?!?) is near shot also so I want to find a long geared transmission as I do a lot of very long distance moves from job to job. While I'm at it I should be upgrading my whole clutch and flywheel to 2.0l correct?
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#21
by
shelbot
on 09 Feb, 2015 16:38
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Do you guys buy porting tools over the interwebz or do you have a certain brand for aluminum you would suggest that is easily available in canuckistan stores.
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#22
by
vanbcguy
on 09 Feb, 2015 16:52
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You can run an AAZ clutch and flywheel, they seem to have very good holding power.
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#23
by
burn_your_money
on 09 Feb, 2015 18:15
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Princess auto has the basics...
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#24
by
shelbot
on 10 Feb, 2015 09:47
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Vanbc do you have any sources on the mainland for a flywheel? I have searched up and down the island for one in junk yards and nothing.
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#25
by
RabbitJockey
on 10 Feb, 2015 09:53
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Vanbc do you have any sources on the mainland for a flywheel? I have searched up and down the island for one in junk yards and nothing.
it's the same as a gasser flywheel, just make sure you find a 210mm flywheel, and make note of whether it has 1 or 2 dowel pins when ordering your clutch kit. you may want to order things separately, and get a stronger pp from a 16v (i think i would avoid sachs i have the straps rip alot on their pp's) ull need a 210mm small spline clutch from something like an 8v gti or scirocco.
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#26
by
vanbcguy
on 10 Feb, 2015 15:28
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Vanbc do you have any sources on the mainland for a flywheel? I have searched up and down the island for one in junk yards and nothing.
Not off hand - you should be able to use a gasser flywheel like RabbitJockey mentioned, though it's not going to have the proper timing mark.
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#27
by
jmaddocks
on 10 Feb, 2015 18:50
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I used a lightweight
Eurospec flywheel from GAP. Unfortunately, it looks like their stock is getting low, and the price has gone up considerably.
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#28
by
Dakotakid
on 10 Feb, 2015 19:09
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Shelbot, the hydraulic camshafts had poor/fairly thin hardened surfaces on their lobes. Seeing pitting or flaking on the lobes is not at all unusual.....unfortunately. They can be run like that, but, you have to "sign-on" to pulling the valve cover every few thousand miles and checking them and deciding WHEN to let it go.
The German solid camshafts, in comparison, were masterpieces. They generally look good even after being run a long time.
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#29
by
shelbot
on 11 Feb, 2015 01:16
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I have until about mid April to have this project finished for my dd during work season so the itch is bad right now. I just want to get driving and make sure it's 100% ready. I know I know take my time and do it right because if I don't then i'll be back here crying!!!
