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#15
by
vanbcguy
on 22 Aug, 2014 12:14
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The problem with doing the bearings with the engine in the car is there is not enough clearance to remove the shaft without cutting a hole in the inner fender. If you don't mind doing that then yes, they can be done in the car. I'd yank it though myself - it's not THAT hard. You need to pull the t-belt, vac pump, oil pan to do it so you're already taking the engine half apart.
There's some pictures on here showing the home made tools people have made - usually they involve grinding down a large pipe cap to the correct size and using some threaded rod to drag it through.
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#16
by
rodpaslow
on 22 Aug, 2014 12:53
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Yeah, might have to remove it. Sounds like a tool would be easy to make.
Are the bearings same size as a mk2? I can Likely find that in bently man?
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#17
by
vanbcguy
on 22 Aug, 2014 13:48
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I BELIEVE the bearings are the same on all the blocks that have IM shafts, but someone who has more experience should chime in...
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#18
by
sdubfid
on 22 Aug, 2014 14:33
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#19
by
410
on 22 Aug, 2014 19:54
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I like the idea of relocating the oil hole position but I would put the oil hole closer to 6 O clock position instead of 4-5. I would like as much bearing surface as possible in the high thrust area.
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#20
by
rodpaslow
on 26 Aug, 2014 11:54
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I started by installing the proper VDO gauges yesterday (never buy el-cheap-o). Pressure is not as bad as first seen with bad gauges. At full temp ~208°F oil temp, 180° evans coolant temp-after highway run; oil pressure at idle is above 15 psi and highway speed (not sure of RPM yet- waiting for gauge) ~30 psi. Approximately 60 should be 2200-2300 rpm with this CTN tranny.
I think I'm still going to pull the pan and vacuum pump and change oil pump and make sure (I bought one thinking major problems with oil pressure) all initial oil feed to the block is good. I'll post if I see any increase in pressure.
After that - to tackle fueling issues...need to back off throttle position and turn up fuel screw some more.
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#21
by
libbydiesel
on 26 Aug, 2014 12:29
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I like the idea of relocating the oil hole position but I would put the oil hole closer to 6 O clock position instead of 4-5. I would like as much bearing surface as possible in the high thrust area.
That's an interesting IM shaft bearing mod.
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#22
by
rodpaslow
on 26 Aug, 2014 15:20
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Just for giggles, what would happen if you made the aux shaft pulley smaller - you may need a different timing belt, but you could certainly get a bit more oil pressure that way -right? Less leverage on bearing too?
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#23
by
rodpaslow
on 27 Aug, 2014 11:53
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My old MK2 16v has a smaller pulley on intermediate shaft that was a kit to change ABA to a 16V and all it does is run the oil pump now as the distributor moves to the head with a old 16v.
Even at say 5200 rpm in a TDI, I got thinking that's only about 2600 rpm the pump is running at - aren't gear pumps good up to 3000 or a bit better? I work at a machine shop - might invest in a prototype pulley that would increase oil pump 20% or so. Is the gear drive that drives the vacuum pump 1:1?
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#24
by
rodpaslow
on 29 Aug, 2014 12:40
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I bought new rod bolts and replace the rod bearing and I'd say three of them showed signs of wear on the upper half of the bearing. Good time to change them. I haven't started it back up yet, to see if there's any improvement in pressure.
Is there a way to change the main bearings - I see the two end caps are extremely close to the seal end plates. Can you use a crow-foot to loosen them, but you need to be on the bolt to torque them properly to put them back on. Will a good quality socket machined very thin fit?
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#25
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Aug, 2014 15:07
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I have a socket that is ground thin on one side and undoes those bolts. Also, a crowfoot will give correct torque if you install it on the torque wrench so that it is at a 90 degree angle.
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#26
by
rodpaslow
on 02 Sep, 2014 11:54
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Now to tackle the fueling problem. I still have a hanging idle unless I bring it down with the clutch in a gear. I will back off the throttle position to another spline or two and see if I can increase the fuel screw some more so I get at least a bit of smoke and see if the turbo will do it's thing. I might be looking for another if this doesn't help.
I wanted a bigger turbo to start pulling hard about 3000 rpm, I'm hoping the 2252 isn't too big as suggested earlier in this post....
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#27
by
rodpaslow
on 02 Sep, 2014 16:52
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So if I read right - to tackle the fueling - back off the throttle as far as reasonable (will likely stop against housing), re-attach the spline to throttle at that point. Turn the fuel screw up so the engine will just run in a very slow idle.
Turn the idle screw on the side of the pump to the correct idle speed. Correct?
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#28
by
rodpaslow
on 10 Sep, 2014 11:12
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I turned the injector pump fueling up about 1 turn last night by moving it one spline. Is there a limit to how far I can go? I will likely move it another one spine tonight before I take it out and see if that's helped with fueling. I imagine anything over 1000°F (~550°C) will tell me if the pump is actually increasing the fuel.
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#29
by
rodpaslow
on 26 Sep, 2014 17:02
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I have the fuel turned up quite a bit now and with my big turbo I'm just starting to get a lb or so of boost with egt climbing fast with the pedal at full to about 1100 -1200°F. I might / most likely have to go to a smaller turbo...
I've read a few posts about hanging idle. Since I've turned fuel up it doesn't shut down right away with the key off and on the idle will hang once up to full eng temp at about 1500 or so rpm, for half a minute or so and then drop back to idle. My idle is around 800 rpm. Is that part of the problem the idle's to low?