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#45
by
theman53
on 21 Jun, 2014 20:16
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I think I used a m8x16 or x20mm long hex head. No issues?
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#46
by
mark3kid
on 22 Jun, 2014 02:24
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The problem I'm having is how do you fit it into the hole with such tight areas? It doesn't look like you physically enough room.
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#47
by
Gizmoman
on 22 Jun, 2014 05:24
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Studs in the turbo.
Yup ^^
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#48
by
mark3kid
on 09 Jul, 2014 13:39
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my flange finally came in the mail

so guys Im just wondering. so where the actuator comes out into the dp does that not have to be blocked off?

sadly I have had zero time to even touch the car since I started my new job. but soon enough ill get to work on it
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#49
by
Gizmoman
on 09 Jul, 2014 17:14
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Not positive I understand the question but here is the one I built:

The extra tang is for a brace to the block.
The gate should only open once you've hit either the boost setting of the turbo, or the setting of a boost controller.
Until you hit that pressure (I think stock is 30 psi but Alcaid could verify), the gate will stay closed due to the spring pressure in the pot.
I believe you can also adjust the opening pressure with the knurled sleeve-nut on the actuator rod from the pot. Less tension = lower max boost.
I'm using a DIY boost controller and have it set to 22 psi. A quick search should net you plenty of posts on building a controller.
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#50
by
mark3kid
on 09 Jul, 2014 17:25
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yup that answered my question

and thanks for the photo helps for reference!.
as for the boost well im not sure yet. ill figure that out once I get it ready to run
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#51
by
Alcaid
on 09 Jul, 2014 23:45
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Good to see you finally received the flange. I figured out what happened to the last one, I shipped it to another guy as I mixed up the addresses....

nice quote in your signature BTW
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#52
by
mark3kid
on 10 Jul, 2014 01:54
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Its one of my favourite car quotes Lol can't wait to see if its true
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#53
by
mark3kid
on 25 Jul, 2014 15:06
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so the final piece of the puzzle showed up today!!!

and because I have not shown you guys the car this is going to be in here is a picture of that I hope you like it
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#54
by
GEE-BEE
on 27 Jul, 2014 07:14
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For my sons dd build were using
1.9 ahu
ko3 hybrid
aaz intake ./ ported polished form extrude a hone, its like a mirror inside
new ahu head assy polished from extrude a hone
Rover pump
new injectors
g60 vlave cover mod ( drill and tap )
2.5 downpipe and exhaust
trying to make a plug and play
100 mm axles
mk11 spindles
ctn trans/ cable shift
You will enjoy the Giles Pump
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#55
by
Gizmoman
on 27 Jul, 2014 11:55
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Is that the car or what you hope it looks like when your done?
That is a very nice looking auto sir. Hard to imagine hearing it go clack, clack, clack
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#56
by
shorttimer
on 29 Jul, 2014 20:31
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Super nice ride !
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#57
by
mark3kid
on 06 Aug, 2014 15:21
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yes that is the actual car. hood needs work now sadly after hitting a deer and my intercooler tubing blowing off into the hood. but still fixable. also here is a picture of what the engine looked like. i am doing a little different colors this time
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#58
by
jmaddocks
on 23 Aug, 2014 06:08
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Here's the flange I made for our HE200WG, prior to hitting the rough spots with a die grinder and welding it:

I ended up grinding a small relief for the wastegate flapper to give it a little extra travel (it was hitting the edge of the oval outlet).
Just got the car running about two weeks ago. We're running about 25.5 psi (at an elevation of 6200'), and it's a blast to drive. It's been a great father-son project (he gets his license in two weeks) and has literally transformed the car. We're in the process of installing a lightweight flywheel and beefier clutch, since the stock clutch started shredding itself pretty quickly with the newfound torque.
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#59
by
Alcaid
on 23 Aug, 2014 07:25
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Looking good

nice to hear it is up and running