Inj pump timing only goes down to 1.5mm

[Spokerider]

I spent the day yesterday working on the AAZ / Samurai project. I got the trans mated to the engine via the Acme adapter plate that comes in the Acme diesel swap kit. This kit utilizes the TDC timing pointer on the Samurai trans, and the TDC is set in the same method as with a VW trans. Also supplied, is a brand new flywheel with a scribed timing mark specifically for the Samurai trans. Anyway, once I got all of these pieces bolted on, I set about installing the pump, crank sprocket [ torqued to spec ] idler, tensioner, and then the belt.

I had read many posts on installing a belt and used Andrews method;

Here's my procedure for easily setting the cam timing precisely and accurately every time.  I'm sure I've posted it before, but here it is reiterated.

Remove the cam sprocket.
Clean the cam sprocket and the taper on the end of the cam with brake clean. 
Place the crank at TDC.
Place the cam at TDC using the cam lock and install equal feeler gauges on either side so that it is both snug and parallel to the head.
Install the pump lock in the pump sprocket. 
Place the timing belt on the engine correctly around the crank, int shaft, tensioner and pump sprockets. 
Place the cam sprocket into the remaining part of the belt and put it onto the cam taper.
Install the bolt onto the cam sprocket until it is snug but the cam sprocket can still turn easily.
Remove the pump lock.
Rotate the crank counter clockwise a few degrees (maybe 10°) and then rotate back to TDC without going past - this step is of utmost importance as it places any belt slack at the tensioner.
Tension the belt using the correct VW tension measuring tool on a 1.6 or the spring loaded tensioner on a 1.9.
Check to be sure the crank has not moved - if it has, then you did not load the slack at the tensioner correctly.
Tighten cam bolt to 25 ft-lbs.
Remove cam lock and feeler gauges.
Hold the cam sprocket by hand (or use a pulley holder if you are weak) and torque to 45 ft-lbs (I know the book says 33 ft-lbs but IMO it is not enough).
Tap the cam bolt with a hammer and recheck the torque. 
Rotate the crank two full rotations back to TDC without going past and double-check the cam timing with the bar and feelers. 
   

It went well. I spun the engine two revolutions and rechecked the timing....it all lined up, the pointer, the pump lock tool, the cam slot. I re checked this 2 x more, spinning the crank forward and backward. Again, the timing lined up.

Then is was onto static pump timing. I put the timing on TDC and pushed the pumps cold start lever all of the way forward.
 I used 2.5mm of preload on the dial gauge, turned the crank CCW until dial pointer stopped moving, reset the dial gauge to zero, and then turned the crank CW back to TDC. The timing was way off. So, I repeated this process numerous times, again with similar " way off" results. After I turned the pump CW, [ standing opposite the engine front ] all of the way it would go in the elongated slots, the timing was down to 1.5mm. Not down to .9mm, but the closest I could get. It appears that the pump needs to turn CW more......dunno if CW is advanced or retarded.

Am I off by one timing belt tooth on the inj pump ? There is no belt slack between the crank sprocket and inj pump sprocket the way it is now. If I need to turn the pump sprocket one tooth and reinstall the belt, which way does it need to go, CW or CCW to get the pump timing down to .9mm?

Here is a pic of the cold start lever. When in off position, [ in the pic it's in the on position ] lever all of the way forward, the rubber wheel only goes to and stays in the 1st notch pictured. I can push it past, into the next two notches, but the it won't stay in those positions on it's own. This is with no cable installed. I dunno if this ?issue? has a bearing on pump timing or not, thought I would mention it however.

Time to go play with an engine...........
Thanks for your thoughts.

[theman53]

turned the crank CCW until dial pointer stopped moving, reset the dial gauge to zero, and then turned the crank CW back to TDC.

The part I don't see is where you make sure the gauge is bottomed out on the plunger. I have had to add more preload so it was contacting when the needle stops. In another way to explain it, the needle could stop because it isn't touching the plunger anymore, so bury the gauge in a little more to be sure it is in the "valley" and not just not touching anymore.


The cold start will not push in and stay in on my pump unless the engine is running. Once I pull it and the engine isn't running, it will stay open until I run it again. I would try to zip tie it down for timing the engine if it won't stay on its own.

On the cam timing, from what I skimmed over, it seems you did it correctly.

[Spokerider]

OK, pretty sure it was user error. Me thinks dumb-dumb was not following pump timing instructions correctly  .

 I had zeroed the dial gauge face plate, installed the gauge into the pump, put 2.5mm of preload into the gauge and then turned the crank CCW until the gauge *just* stopped moving. Then I just turned the dial face plate to zero before turning the crank CW back to TDC. This is where I was making the mistake, just turning the face plate. It was giving me weird readings.

I figured out, that after the gauge stopped moving with the CCW rotation, to remove the gauge from the pump, set the face plate back to zero, install with 1mm of preload, and then turn the crank CW back to TDC. It worked. I adjusted the pump to .83mm [ this number was easily obtained within the pumps adjustment range ]. Then, I rotated the crank 2 full revolutions, and went through the whole the timing procedure again. I did this 3 more times, each time getting a reading of .83mm-.85mm.

Onto installing the manifolds, injectors, turbo, h20 pump, etc.

BTW, does one recommend anti seize compound on injector threads? I have some high temp nickel compound. Seems some say yes, others no.

[TylerDurden]

Either way on the IP timing is ok... perhaps the first way was confusing because you zero the dial and pretend the gauge is at 0.00, not 2.00 or whatever your preload was.

Anti-seize on injector threads is fine, in my book.

[Spokerider]

Yep, I was not factoring in the preload..........I was expecting to see an number closer to .8mm and not 2.5mm. Now I know.

Installed the valve cover, injectors, g-plugs, manifolds and turbo. Takes me some time to go through the bucket of bolts that came with the engine and guess what bolts go where.

The wifes car has sprung a coolant leak.....time to switch gears and fix it now.