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#135
by
jhax
on 03 Feb, 2014 19:08
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I know you all like pictures so here you are...
Flywheel @ TDC
IP sprocket @ TDC (dead on)
Curious...two IP sprocket marks?
Orientation of vertical gov. screw, idle adjustment screw (relatively far in), max speed stopping screw (still has wire through the end from the factory never adjusted) and IP advancement (notice how close to hard fuel line it is).
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#136
by
TylerDurden
on 03 Feb, 2014 19:38
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Excellent. I was hoping some pix would show up!
The screw I refer to is the one under the words "FUEL OUT", it makes contact with the lever that I assume got bent:
That screw has a stainless collar tack-welded to the threads. Pry that collar off and turn that screw a half turn and see how it goes. Repeat until power is better. The idle will be higher, but you can bring it down with the stop. When you are getting a bit of dark soot, you may be in the zone, but watch for hanging revs.
Reference:
RE advance: I'd move the IP and pulley a tooth away from the head (CW as viewed from the right fender).
That second pulley mark (rightmost) seems bogus to me...
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#137
by
jhax
on 03 Feb, 2014 19:59
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Thanks sir, I knew you were referring to the governor screw. We took the collar off already and screwed it in as far as it would go. I was thinking of moving the IP sprocket one tooth fwd but I just wanted verification. I think the vertical governor screw i think is really just where it needs to be but if it comes to it I think I'll rotate that one click CCW (mentioning the springs ever so slightly). Is there an easy way to rotate the pump sprocket one tooth CW without going through the usual motions. I was reading somewhere on sandwiching a flat piece of cardboard in between the sprocket teeth and belt and rotating the pump. Which should I try first? Vertical screw or sprocket rotation? Also both marks are factory stamped, just to emphasize.
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#138
by
TylerDurden
on 03 Feb, 2014 20:15
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Well, moving the sprocket and IP just gets you more range to advance timing if you think it will need it. If you have no white/grey smoke, your advance may be fine for now.
If the accelerator lever and shaft are dialed-in without hanging revs, I'd leave them be for now, too.
If the issue is lackluster power, I'd clean up the threads of the full-load screw, if that's what is keeping it from turning in further. If the nubbin or its related bits got bent even a fraction of a millimeter, it would dramatically affect the power.
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#139
by
jhax
on 03 Feb, 2014 20:19
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My dad is wondering how much the pump will advance by moving it a tooth CW while keeping the pump its self (bracket bolts) tight.
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#140
by
libbydiesel
on 03 Feb, 2014 20:28
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You ABSOLUTELY have enough idle adjustment to go one spline with the accelerator shaft to lever alignment. When you had hanging revs why didn't you just lower the idle?
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#141
by
jhax
on 03 Feb, 2014 20:45
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When I had hanging revs it was only in the higher revs when I blipped the throttle. Not during idle at all, idle seemed normal at the time, even low. Ill puth the enrichment screw back in (only until it just touches the lever), and tension the vertical governor shaft a spline and see what happens.
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#142
by
libbydiesel
on 03 Feb, 2014 21:07
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I have tuned a vast number of pumps from scratch and the only time I have ever seen hanging revs at higher rpms is when the idle was too high.
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#143
by
jhax
on 03 Feb, 2014 21:23
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That is understandable. However the only thing I changed to get rid of hanging high rpm idle was rotate the governor shaft cw releasing tension on the spring. I'll tighten the spring and put the governor in a little ways now and get back with results.
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#144
by
jhax
on 03 Feb, 2014 22:18
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Right it worked. Idles happy max fuel screw is roughly where it was as is idle screw. The governor screw is now on the tick mark closest to the front of the engine. The only difference is that it takes slightly longer for the revs to come back down to idle after the throttle is blipped and physically returns to the idle screw.
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#145
by
TylerDurden
on 03 Feb, 2014 23:15
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My dad is wondering how much the pump will advance by moving it a tooth CW while keeping the pump its self (bracket bolts) tight.
IIRC, there are 44 teeth on the sprocket... 360/44= 8.18
o cam (16.36
o crank).
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#146
by
jhax
on 12 Feb, 2014 18:44
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Finally got to drive it today and it runs like a dream. I'm loving the governor mod too.
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#147
by
Diesel_Zuk
on 17 Jul, 2014 19:16
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Whatever ended up being the problem with this? I'm tired and tried to read through it, but can't follow. I just want to drive my jetta again.
