Author Topic: Step-by-step needed for replacing rings - 1.6NA (Read 6381 times)

bhtooefr · « **on:** March 20, 2006, 08:47:03 pm »

I need a step-by-step for reringing a 1.6NA.

As in, take the running car, and shut it off, and start the step-by-step from there.

Also, what parts do I need? Obviously the rings themselves, but anything else?

wyldman · « **Reply #1 on:** March 20, 2006, 10:45:33 pm »

The first step is to get the head off.It's not hard,and can be pulled with the intake and exhaust manifolds attached.

Then pull the oil pan,and drop the oil pump.You can now mark and unbolt the rod caps,and push the piston and rods out through the top of the block.Slip some rubber fuel line over the rod bolts so you don't damage anything on the way out.You can now hone the cylinders (use lots of varsol for lube),and then wash everything down well.Remove old rings,clean the grooves,and install new rings.Lube cylinders with motor oil or thick lube (I like GM EOS),and use a piston ring compressor to help get the pistons back in the holes.

I'd install new rod bearings since they are out anyways.

Now button everything back up,and your done.Drive the snot out of it until the rings seat.

Use a 1.9L metal head gasket.You can also check the piston protrusion before you drop the head on,to make sure you have the right gasket.Don't cheat and use a 3 hole just to be safe.

BlackTieTD · « **Reply #2 on:** March 21, 2006, 11:15:12 am »

wyldman, ballpark how much would that operation cost on a 1.6TD motor? guessing it would be the same as a 1.6 NA motor? i have a spare MF that needs rings and no time to do it, especially since i've never done this job before and i will likely catch a couple snags.

bryanbryan89x · « **Reply #3 on:** March 21, 2006, 11:55:02 am »

You can just put a metal 1.9 head gasket on a 1.6 na?? It just goes on with no modificatons what-so-ever?? What specifications would you torque it down to?? On the fiber ones I know you got to do an extra 90 degree turn after it warms up and after 500 miles or so...Can you just omit these steps upon using a metal one?

wyldman · « **Reply #4 on:** March 21, 2006, 12:29:34 pm »

It depends on if it's in the car or not.It's more labour if it's in the car.

Depends on part quality too.Cheap parts are available,but they don't last as long.Good OEM stuff is more expensive.

Rings,rod bearings and a 1.9L head gasket,and an 1.9L windage tray oil pan gasket will run you around $240 or so.

If the pistons are dirty,and need cleaning,it's about $40 to have them bead blasted.

If the motor is out of the car,I'd do the job for $200 labour.

So you'd be under $500 or so complete.

bhtooefr · « **Reply #5 on:** March 21, 2006, 12:56:42 pm »

Hmm, I had heard something about dropping the oil pan and doing it that way...

I may drive the thing down to West Union, OH, where one of the bigger VW diesel shops in the country is, and have them do it... I don't feel like messing around with timing belts, and taking the head off, and all that fun stuff.

bhtooefr · « **Reply #6 on:** March 25, 2006, 08:42:56 am »

It was suggested to me that I not mess around with reringing, and instead buy someone else's 1.6NA 1991 Jetta, as if a shop were to take the head off (that's the route I'm taking, as I really can't afford to screw something up myself, and if I do it at a GTG, it won't go right and the car will be sitting there for weeks), and find something wrong, I would get reamed.

So, if the head IS screwed up, what would be the consequences of putting the damaged head back on, rather than getting a new one?

Alternately, who here thinks that I could get it to last until 2008? What are the tricks to driving a car with damaged rings for longevity? I'm already moving back to 15W40 oil. FWIW, I'd say that I will put 30-40k miles/year on it.