-
Engine temp & oil pressure gauges.
by
homerj1
on 11 Jul, 2013 18:22
-
Looking for advice on the above. Car is mk1, engine is 1.6td from mk2.
I have a new aftermarket mechanical temp gauge, but, without installing a nipple in the upper rad hose, I can't see anyway to install it.
If I go aftermarket electrical temp gauge, where do install the sensor?
Also, with a mechanical oil pressure gauge, where do you tap in on the 1.6td?
-
#1
by
ORCoaster
on 11 Jul, 2013 23:22
-
My aftermarket temp gauge sender is in a tee bltock and installed between the radiator and the overflow tank. Would that work for you?
Oil sender tee off the head on the drivers side. "Remove sender install tee, reinstall sender and take off to the gauge." Can no do?
That is all there is to it.
-
#2
by
homerj1
on 12 Jul, 2013 05:43
-
My aftermarket temp gauge sender is in a tee bltock and installed between the radiator and the overflow tank. Would that work for you?
I was thinking upper rad hose - but your idea is better. So you're running an electric temp gauge? Will like to see an example of the tee you used.
thanks
-
#3
by
ORCoaster
on 12 Jul, 2013 23:03
-
Yes electric gauge VDO oem style. Will look for pictures I am sure it is somewhere on Photobucket.
-
#4
by
8v-of-fury
on 13 Jul, 2013 01:28
-
I drilled an old mk2/mk3 two prong coolant sensor out, tapped it to fit 1/8npt for the coolant sensor and JB welded it in to the sensor body.
Has been there in daily service for the better part of a year.
-
#5
by
air-cooled or diesel
on 13 Jul, 2013 06:58
-
analog gauges with electric sender is your best bet. vdo is the best investment. with an electrical sender you may need to run a ground from sensor body/ or prong fitting. you will have 1 wire going into top of sensor and depending where you place it you may need to ground it.
the prong fitting needs to be npt. and i stay away from putting ANY sealer/weld on the THREADS, never seal the threads directly, use a copper washer and i like to use rtv or pipe dope or permatex on both sides of washer/seal. if you put anything on threads it may later end up in oil passages or coolant passages and be a clogging hazard. electric senders prevent oil pressure or coolant flow outside of their closed circuit, a good sender keeps you in business for a good time, cheap senders will be a burden.
-
#6
by
CRSMP5
on 14 Jul, 2013 20:57
-
never.. never imo use mech gauge in car.. if it chafs under dash.. you will wear the liquid in it...
vdo op/temp...
the temp gauge goes in top front neck.. or use the heater hose side.. pre 84 had 2 on the end of head one for glowplugs/temp gauge... newer moved to front neck for gauge.. side of head neck for gp..
i like modding old pre aba waterpump housings to house a gauge sensor.. lowest point on cooling system = real number if you spring a leak... bbob's tdi-m i tiged a 10x1 nut to his by pass metal pipe for his gauge so he could have dash and real one.. the tdi/aba housing lacks the room for the sensor.. and i think the block lacks the room but not tested.. 1.9 has big frontalk bubble vs old 1.6... but my euro odd ball 2.0 counterflow.. i put my old modded old style one onn it when i reused my "york" ac compressor on my 84 coupe.. people hate them.. i never had a issue..
-
#7
by
damac
on 14 Jul, 2013 22:45
-
I use auber instrument gages and senders and drill/tap my own holes into the basic diesel flanges that come off head going to radiator.
Haven't had a problem yet. I end up using some teflon tape towards top of threads and small copper crush washer. I only used the tape on the upper part so a few threads hit and did it because I had issues with a radiator switch that would let drops through otherwise with its supplied crush washer.
-
#8
by
homerj1
on 15 Jul, 2013 12:42
-
vdo op/temp...
the temp gauge goes in top front neck.. or use the heater hose side..
The heater side hose is the one the comes out of the back of the head?
I got a tee to fit the sender and for now ( time constraints) I'll be putting this tee in the heater hose.
Just need to clarify exactly which hose - to get the most realistic reading.
The choices are: I'm assuming the best choice as I suspect there is some flow of coolant is either 2 or 3 fyi 2& 3 flow thru the cooler on my 010, 1 goes back to the heater
-
#9
by
CRSMP5
on 15 Jul, 2013 13:40
-
1 is big huge not good idea.. heatervalve shuts that circuit off.. no flow.. also why i cannot figure out why vw put 2 on diesels there.. on that neck at the head.. but assume some flow.. why they moved it to top of front neck.. but samme time.. LOL eliminated valves for blend doors..
going to tranny cooler.. hmmmm i wonder if that is in or out flow... think thats #3? if out.. the atf may affect its temp.. but if in should be no issue.. but which way does it flow...
#2 i think is a ok idea.. but if the bleeder nipple from rad/top hose plugs up.. that flow screws up..
bypass, top are no good.. bypass will not read w/thermo open.. aka hot dueto flow.. and top hose i think would flow little till it opened..
the hose w #1 on it the neck there should have a glow plug and gauge sensor.. or 1 and top neck has other.. thinking 84 they went away from 2 in the aluminum neck.. id unplug glow plug one.. tape up.. drill tap to use it there myself... it only operates the gp relay timmer to say if warm/cold.. you got big boy pants.. count.. start.. who needs timmer.. also that sensor vw uses works vdo temp gauge.. so new wire to gauge done.. no sensor to buy...
-
#10
by
homerj1
on 15 Jul, 2013 16:10
-
. you got big boy pants.. count.. start.. who needs timmer..
lol!!!! - but, it is too hot to wear Big Boys.....
37 with humdiity......
Serously,
thanks for the help!! I'll have to ask to my significant other about the "this big boy stuff"
thats what she said.......
-
#11
by
CRSMP5
on 15 Jul, 2013 18:01
-
i unplug them for winter use.. default max time.. just summer.. count to 10-15 then start.. when warmed up i count to 5 or so... i find even then it starts better then when its hooked up... your working too hard imo.. id add wire to a vdo temp one..
being auto.. i think id add temp for oil too... has to be in top of oil filter housing for oil flow.. then using brass t put pressure sensors on side of head...
to use same gauge.. yes same.. get a simple no light up.. cannot have light in it at all switch.. thats 2 position.. flip switch see oil.. flip other way see water.. but a led/light screws up the reading..
-
#12
by
ORCoaster
on 15 Jul, 2013 23:16
-
Well I scoured my Photobucket pages and nowhere is there a good or even remotely good picture of the temp gauge sensor inline with the rad overflow. I thought I would have snapped it in with the cruise control pictures but not even close. Not in with pimp glow pics either. If you really want a shot I will grab one tomorrow.
-
#13
by
homerj1
on 16 Jul, 2013 14:24
-
Well I scoured my Photobucket pages and nowhere is there a good or even remotely good picture of the temp gauge sensor inline with the rad overflow. I thought I would have snapped it in with the cruise control pictures but not even close. Not in with pimp glow pics either. If you really want a shot I will grab one tomorrow.
Thanks for the effort!
I just need to clarify which hose to put the sensor into.
-
#14
by
ORCoaster
on 16 Jul, 2013 15:53
-
I ran it off the hose that goes from the radiator into the surplus tank/ filler tank. Brass tee, two hose bibs and the sensor on the third threaded port. Seems to get plenty hot, plenty quick. I could have swapped out one on the flange for a location off the head but I didn't think it was necessary. Hot is hot. Water is always moving in the system, and not routing down through the radiator until the thermo opens. So I feel temp is recorded well enough and soon enough to avoid an overheat incident. If I really want to know the exact temp I would move one of the WVO temp sensors against the head and measure it. Those read up to 183 degrees but I would be able to see how fast it gets there.