After 600 miles, I got 2 cracked main caps. What the heck.

[burn_your_money]

I'm pretty sure redline is 4500 for both engines.

If you only drive 65 then your gearing is probably acceptabe given the wright and coefficient of drag. Andrew would know better though.

[ORCoaster]

TonyTD.  on that site of the gears there is a link to Miata and they will show you the differences between wheel and tire combos.  Diameter, height etc.  Try looking around on that for giggles/

[libbydiesel]

Your gearing would be fine.  I didn't realize you were running tires that large.  IMO, no harm will come to a TDI from high revs.  You could cruise at 4,000+ all day long, but if you did, unfortunately your fuel economy would be in the toilet and the engine would run a lot hotter.  With your tires, tho, if my math is right you're still only turning 3555 at 75.  The engine would be more comfortable/efficient at 65 but IMO no damage will result from 75.

[TonyTDTruck]

Your gearing would be fine.  I didn't realize you were running tires that large.  IMO, no harm will come to a TDI from high revs.  You could cruise at 4,000+ all day long, but if you did, unfortunately your fuel economy would be in the toilet and the engine would run a lot hotter.  With your tires, tho, if my math is right you're still only turning 3555 at 75.  The engine would be more comfortable/efficient at 65 but IMO no damage will result from 75.

I should have mentioned Im running a DoKa. This one is a Syncro 16. They come with longer trailing arms and larger wheel wells. These DoKas can fit 30.5" tires. Some day I might do that but it's good to know I don't have to worry too much about it.
I have pulled the engine and soon I will have main caps and a TDI crank to repair this AAZ. I will use ARP studs for the mains this time. This will be done at a machine shop.
I have ARPs studs for the head. Can I re-use these? I hope so because they are not cheap. But then again, neither is removing the head and a broken head bolt.

Thanks libbydisel.

Tony

[Syncroincity]

Yes, the ARP head studs are unlimited-use. Be sure to use a moly lube similar to what they provided with them originally when installing to get accurate torque readings.

I had mine at 100 ft-lbs, and some have gone up to 125.

[TonyTDTruck]

Here are the studs for the mains. OUCH! these are expensive. A lot less than what I'm going through right now though.
I spoke with a machine shop and they told me I might be wasting my time with trying to line bore this block. They are saying that if the bore isn't straight the piston height will be affected. They couldn't guarantee it. Oh crap! Maybe I should get a second opinion. Or get a whole used block assembly. That could be cheaper.

http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_11_5_248&products_id=457

[Jetmugg]

I got a mild chuckle from the machine shop comments (if it's not straight...).  After all, it is their job to make sure that the line boring is done parallel to the deck surface.

Steve.

[libbydiesel]

Tony, the link you posted is for head studs, not mains.

[TonyTDTruck]

Tony, the link you posted is for head studs, not mains.

oops I got it corrected. Thanks libbydiesel.

[theman53]

If you use the arp part # and go to summit racing they are usually cheaper

[R.O.R-2.0]

Your gearing would be fine.  I didn't realize you were running tires that large.  IMO, no harm will come to a TDI from high revs.  You could cruise at 4,000+ all day long, but if you did, unfortunately your fuel economy would be in the toilet and the engine would run a lot hotter.  With your tires, tho, if my math is right you're still only turning 3555 at 75.  The engine would be more comfortable/efficient at 65 but IMO no damage will result from 75.

I should have mentioned Im running a DoKa. This one is a Syncro 16. They come with longer trailing arms and larger wheel wells. These DoKas can fit 30.5" tires. Some day I might do that but it's good to know I don't have to worry too much about it.
I have pulled the engine and soon I will have main caps and a TDI crank to repair this AAZ. I will use ARP studs for the mains this time. This will be done at a machine shop.
I have ARPs studs for the head. Can I re-use these? I hope so because they are not cheap. But then again, neither is removing the head and a broken head bolt.

Thanks libbydisel.

Tony

i may be incorrect, but i believe the 1.6, and the 1.9idi use the same head studs, but the 1.9tdi uses its own head studs..

could be totally wrong tho.. Andrew, or one of the more TDI-friendly users will chime in and correct me if im wrong 

[libbydiesel]

Nah, stock VE TDIs have the same head bolts. 

[TonyTDTruck]

After pulling out all the parts from the block, I saw the rod bearings have this wear pattern. It looks like pre-detonation. Or is it oil starvation? I've seen oil starvation as grooves or pealing of the bearing surface.
Again never seen this in any engine overhaul I've done. This is only after 600 miles of running.
Any body seen this before?

[theman53]

That doesn't look like my AAZ rod cap or main rod halves. That looks like the bottom cap half as I can't see a rod going through your hand and my AAZ the caps were not threaded. Mine had a locator pin. Also I haven't seen anything like that. It almost looks like it had too much clearance and was pounding the bearing surface. Just a guess, but that is what it kind of looks like.

[CRSMP5]

http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_13_61_251&products_id=464

what you need is 2 others.. 15$ more for 4 extra studs/nuts... makes a 4th set cheap.. if you doing lots of rebuilds may be worth it s you can price by the nut/stud/washer vs over priced kits..


when i see crap like that makes me wanna price other kits in sizes i seek for better deals... they are also selling new rod bolts for a vr6 that are idenitical to tdi strech bolts... but can be reused... i put them in this vr6t project..