I'd recommend getting an ALH sprocket and hub. I just installed the hub so there was a little bit of tension from starting up the camplate ramps on the correct cylinder and it all worked fine from there. Timing adjustment with the 2-part sprocket setup is way easier. Otherwise you will need to slot the mounting holes.
Pretty sure I can live with that - will make getting the belt lined up initially a bit more of a pain but I should be able to work with it.I suppose I could probably get my machinist to cut a new woodruff key slot in to the pulley too but I don't know FOR SURE what the difference in measurement is.
Even easier is to just jump the sprocket a couple teeth or use the ALH hub/sprocket combo.
The Rover pump is a very good pump to start with. It is a better match to the ALH than it is to the AHU as the snout is the larger ALH style. I recently installed one on an ALH and it worked well. On the AHU you would need to enlarge the bore of the pump bracket. The LR pump also uses a two part sprocket similar to the ALH and so has the pump mounted solidly instead of the slotted holes and rotation of the pump body for timing. Because of this, one would need to either use the ALH hub and sprocket or slot the three mounting holes of the injection pump. I used the ALH hub and sprocket. I needed to trim a little off the top of the pump snout where the timing pin goes as the ends of the bolts holding the two parts of the sprocket together would hit the pump case. In order to use the timing pin method, one would have to add a bushing to the timing pin hole and go through a fair bit of effort to get the hub set correctly. I didn't think it was worth it so I just set the hub so the pin could be used for the rough timing for belt installation. The Land Rover delivery valves are also the long version rather than the short version that the TDIs use. Because of this you would either need to swap in a set of short delivery valves or bend the metal lines to fit the longer delivery valves. I've done both and either is a viable option. The small mounting plate at the distributor head is also not correct and so you would need to either modify it or replace it. I used a 1.6 plate but it might have needed a couple m6 holes drilled, I don't recall. The accelerator lever setup is a little odd and the angles aren't great. I welded a small piece onto mine. All said and done the Land Rover pump is a very good option. I also went through mine before installing and needed to replace the camplate, governor shaft and governor assembly with flyweights as those parts were damaged.
I just do mine by hand, when i set belt timing I already have my gauge in the pump.I roll over till I see it just starting to ramp on the cam plate, and then set the belt there. With the pump in the middle of its throw, no issue to dial it in to wherever you need it set for your desire.I wish I went with the ALH style, Still might. I would love to be able to tune my timing without having to loosen the fuel lines off haha.
You need to remove the rover hub and then install the VW hub onto the rover pump. Neither hub is keyed to the pump shaft. There is a keyway in the shaft, tho, so getting the hub set for #1 is not hard.
