Just get the ARP studs.
I used OEM type bolts (these are the torque-to-yield bolts that stretch) and after carefully following the complicated torque procedure, which involves removing the valve cover for a re-torque several times, I still got the feeling that the bolts were not torqued consistently because of how they feel after they start to stretch. Using the ARP studs seems like it's worth the piece of mind, instead of wondering whether your head gasket job will hold, it just seems like a more reliable idea
But anyway, it's the bolt I think that's giving you the trouble, not the cylinder head. The bolt is worn out.
Topic: headbolts and headgaskets (Read 4256 times)
