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#15
by
libbydiesel
on 23 Aug, 2012 17:01
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Inspect your intermediate shaft bearings. If they look at all questionable, then they should be changed. Changing them is easy, but requires the right tool to do so. There's a fellow on the Vortex/eBay who sells a nice tool for it.
Crank bolt needs to be replaced and torqued correctly (no impact for this job).
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#16
by
RockOcean
on 23 Aug, 2012 18:30
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The intermediate bearings do look worn. Any idea on where to find these and the main cap bolts? I have looked all over, that's why they are the only two parts left that I need.
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#17
by
libbydiesel
on 23 Aug, 2012 19:52
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You can get them pre-sized from most local auto parts stores (Napa, Checker, Autozone, etc, etc) for $20-40 or so. They will list them as "cam bearings". I think there is a thread in the FAQ section with bearing manufacturer interchange numbers.
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#18
by
theman53
on 23 Aug, 2012 20:39
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Main cap bolts are m10-1.5x65mm and use grade 10.9 not 8.8. I am actually using a socket head instead of a hex head as you can get them in grade 12.9, they are stronger. If you aren't in a hurry I could get you some in the mail, let me know.
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#19
by
RockOcean
on 24 Aug, 2012 11:53
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Great thanks guys, I am getting the valve cover from Giles as well, will my 1.6 cam go into the 1.9 head? and how do I know if the cam is good or not? Giles wanted to keep his cam. I am really in no rush, so I would like the main cap bolts you have. Instead of relying on whatever the machine shop gets. PM me the payment info please. I am leaving for NYC for the weekend so the next update will be when all the parts get here some time next week. Gonna try and take lots of photos of the rebuild. Thanks again I couldnt have done this right without your help
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#20
by
RockOcean
on 29 Aug, 2012 22:37
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Well parts are starting to come in the Prothe pistons came in first so I took them down to the machine shop so they can start on the re-boring. I also got the AHU crank sprocket so I took that and the crank to the machine shop right down the street. This guys shop is incredibly clean and just plan awesome. I believe he works mostly on Aircooled motors - he told me if I wanted to fix my van right he would put a proper air cooled motor in it like its suppose to have! haha
The newer style oil filler came in. I was hoping to use my cap and dipstick from my old one but turns out it will not fit and the dip stick will not make the bend any way. Is there any way I can rig it so I can still check the oil from the plate opening? I have heard of using a Bass string to do this. I guess I would have to buy a cap that fits and then drill a hole in it and some how attach the bass string to the dip stick?? Does anyone know exactly how much oil I should put in a completely dry motor to make my marking on the custom dip stick?
When I first got the van I had to rebuild the transmission. So I decided to upgrade the clutch to a 228mm disk by getting a G60 Flywheel and a VR6 pressure plate. I never knew that you had to shave 2mm off the diameter of the flywheel. It did not turn when I first put it on - so I put a copper washer in between the bell housing and the starter on the bolts. It worked, but I later found out that when the engine fully warmed up, if I shut it down I would have to wait 30 minutes before I could start it again. Due to the flywheel expanding up against the starter. So I am fixing that problem as well. Eventually I am going to go back to the stock setup, as I have no view able TDC mark. Although the guy at the machine shop says he will be able to make a mark for me. And if I want to pull off the oil pan you have to remove the fly wheel.
Here are some photos:
IMG_8854 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
IMG_8856 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
IMG_8857 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
IMG_8866 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
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#21
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Aug, 2012 22:50
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Air-cooled motor, I just threw up in my mouth. Why? To cut the power in half and consume twice as much fuel at the same time...
In your picture the crank isn't machined for the TDI sprocket...
For the license plate dipstick checking, you can make a dipstick tube from steel brake line to curve over the top of the alt and run to the stock block hole. I'll post a pic later if you need one. I'm the one who's made the dipstick from a Bass string.
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#22
by
RockOcean
on 30 Aug, 2012 13:51
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A picture would be great - does it use the stock dip stick tube or does it replace the whole thing?
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#23
by
libbydiesel
on 30 Aug, 2012 16:44
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Dipstick tube and dipstick both need to be replaced. I'll try to post a pic later.
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#24
by
RockOcean
on 30 Aug, 2012 22:04
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#25
by
libbydiesel
on 31 Aug, 2012 17:37
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#26
by
RockOcean
on 02 Sep, 2012 23:02
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Thanks for the picture. I think am going drill out the center of my old cap and glue it into the center of the new cap. Then some how hook up a bass string to the old dip stick.
Here are some pictures of the machine work done to the crank snout to fit the AHU crank sprocket. Also the 2mm shaved off the G60 flywheel. I told the guy I thought you just had to shave flat the old key way - but luckily he knew that wouldn't be the best fit so he ended up welding up the key way and then cutting the exact match for the D shape. Turned out great, he said that the line was under cutting from the weld.
IMG_9097 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
IMG_9111 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
IMG_9106 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
IMG_9103 by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
I should have the block re bored from the machine shop on Tuesday or Wednesday.
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#27
by
Gizmoman
on 03 Sep, 2012 11:05
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Nice progress. What are your thoughts on the Prothe pistons? Are you using the pins that came with them as I hear they have a thinner wall thickness. I am also assuming you are replacing the rings that came with the pistons with something of higher quality (Edit)
- 038 198 155 G 80mm Over sized Piston Ring Set Goetze
.
Reason I ask is I'm about to do the same but not sure about the pins.
The folks your workin with sound like great people.
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#28
by
RockOcean
on 03 Sep, 2012 21:32
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Thanks, slowly but surely. Not to sure what to think about the pistons other then from what I have read about changing the rings which I am doing. I could not find Goetze in the .50 over bore size so I ended up going with Grant rings. Seems that nobody has any problems with them other then the cheap rings that come with them.
Does anyone have any info on the SABO rear main seals. At first take I thought it looked pretty cheap, but then I read that they are better because they are made with Teflon and there is no spring that can wear out. Some say they will also leak if not installed perfectly. Anybody have any problems with there seals?
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#29
by
RockOcean
on 04 Sep, 2012 11:45
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Picked up my cam from the machine shop today to make sure that it was good to put in the new 1.9 head. Not looking to good, what do you think? Time to go cam shopping?
CamWear by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr
CamWear II by
RockOcean.com, on Flickr