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#75 by Baron VonZeppelin on 24 Jan, 2012 19:59
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Great pics.. I'm not leaking from there so I'll probably just leave the o ring.
Negative Steevo
Thats the only one you CANT fix on the car.
Put a new one, or it will be the next one to leak afterwards.QuoteI had a question though.. the head I put on is from have NA. Are the TD and NA injectors any different?
Like they said
Same injector / nozzle - higher breaking pressure.
130-135 NA
155 TD
So you'd need to lower the timing to NA spec,
or at least down to .95 - 1.00
Best would be to put the TD's back in
or have the NA's pop pressure adjusted at a fuel shop to TD specs.
New heat shields under injectors any time they come out, is VW recommendation too.
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#76 by steevz on 24 Jan, 2012 20:20
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Awesome. I'm going to get some new heat shields friday.. and I'll clean and lap the TDs.. might get some new nozzles.. and then swap them out too.
Thanks!
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#77 by steevz on 27 Jan, 2012 15:04
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Alright, I got the new seals, gaskets, and heat shield..
I got two top cover gaskets.. The thin one is actually round to start off with and you need to fit it into the top cover.. without the numbs..and the other is thicker with the nubs that have to be cut off right? So which is better.. I'm thinking the thin one should just fit right in without the need to trim..
Next, the heat shields I got are Bosch OEM.. but they cost $6.50 each! I was expecting $4-8 total.. the guys at the fuel injection shop said these are stronger don't crack or deform when you torque down the injectors. He also said he's successfully reused them. So, should I take them back and just get some cheaper ones or is the information I received correct? You know, you get what you pay for.
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#78 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 27 Jan, 2012 16:25
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Alright, I got the new seals, gaskets, and heat shield..
Blimey, I thought it was only UK stealership that charged that much per shield.
Next, the heat shields I got are Bosch OEM.. but they cost $6.50 each! I was expecting $4-8.. the guys at the fuel injection shop said these are stronger don't crack or deform when you torque down the injectors. He also said he's successfully reused them. So, should I take them back and just get some cheaper ones or is the information I received correct? You know, you get what you pay for.
Contrary to what others say they can all be reused. Ask anyone who has reused them.
I reused my last set of 4, 14 times before one failed.
It failed outside whilst being reshaped. It does this because this action is the time of greatest stress, so if it reshapes, it will be good for the next use.
When these heatshields are put to use the they are being pushed the wrong way to crack.
VW says many things, be it lies, ignorance, or mistake. Did anyone read the page I posted from the official for-the-eyes-of-VWemployees-only maintenance manual?
Use a ball bearing to reform with a 19mm nut for support and a pair of clamping pliers for consistancy. Only deform for about half to 1mm gap when shield sat on the end of an injector.
Keep using same shield in one hole only because an eyeglass will show you that each new shield wears the seating in the head away as they are almost as unique as fingerprints -
#79 by Baron VonZeppelin on 27 Jan, 2012 20:47
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ouch !
They used to be $1 each for a long time.
Have heard that they were going to go up - Bosch injector nozzles went up a bit recently too. Retail shops are always higher - but you get them in your hands right then.
I have re-used heat shields before too.
On the same injector going back in the same head.
Have a few sets in stock on hand - might try to see if anyone still has them for $1 and stock up more. I'd rather use new for $1 than reshape old ones - but the reshape process is good info.
As far as i know the nubbed seal is the only one in the kit intended for the top housing. The 121 kit is actually put together to service Cummins VE pumps - its just the closest kit to our application. Thats why it comes with a 20mm front main seal - and the nubbed top housing seal.
Get a FRESH razor and spend some time trimming carefully.
Did they swap you a 17mm front seal ? -
#80 by steevz on 27 Jan, 2012 20:51
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I just bought the seals I needed and the front seal (only had the viton and stopped selling the black ones 4-5 years ago). So it was $30 and some change. I'm just heading out to pull the pump and reseal it. I'll update.
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#81 by Baron VonZeppelin on 27 Jan, 2012 20:54
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Steevz, have you ever replaced the rear pump head o-ring before ?
Where cast iron pump head meets the aluminum pump body. -
#82 by steevz on 28 Jan, 2012 00:01
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Nope, but I hear that one should definately be done off the pump so it can be upright when installing new O-ring. I have that O ring and plan to change it out. Didn't get to my pump tonight.. opened my NA pump and check out the governor so I know what size of shims to pick up tomorrow.
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#83 by Baron VonZeppelin on 28 Jan, 2012 10:40
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Okay, didn't know if you were going to do that one or not.
I've done several still on the car.
Off the car is more convenient, thats all.
Clean pump head real well, and light coat of grease afterwards on the whole cast iron.
(Or to back up a little - if the cast iron is canada rust rough - don't grease the cast iron - wrap around/cover it with 2" masking tape. Don't let the o-ring contact anything that isnt nice and smooth and slick.)
Get the pump indexed in-between cycles so that the plunger is all the way down - very important.
Some use a bolt in the timing access hole to keep the plunger tensioned as they loosen the head bolts - and not a bad idea. I have done it with and without.
Main thing is to loosen the head bolts only enough to access the o-ring.
Its built into the design.
I wouldn't stretch the o-ring over the pump head in a cold environment - it could possibly split or break.
Before inserting the new o-ring - lube it with light coat of grease too.
So it slides gently over the pump head.
If you have any exposed threads on the head bolts where the o-ring will be going - wrap a little tape around those threads before letting the o-ring come in contact to them.
After the o-ring is in its new full position - i let it sit for an hour or so to regain its composure after the stretching. Then reassemble.
You can use this link/method as a "general guide".
http://crustycrank.com/resealinjpump.htm
His recipe is missing a few ingredients on the pump head o-ring proceedure.
I added those ingredients above.
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#84 by steevz on 28 Jan, 2012 10:59
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Awesome, thanks. My pump is rust free!
I'm going to go tackle this pump. Will update. -
#85 by steevz on 28 Jan, 2012 23:59
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Woo!
Pump is sealed! NO foam in the return line, car starts RIGHT up.. no more air coming out of the pump! Also successfully GOV MODDED my pump! This is will be fun now.
So, I do have a couple questions though:
1) I read that I need to vent my valve cover somewhere other then back to the intake?
2) I need to increase boost? Add manual boost controller? I have a T3 turbo.
I have an EGT gauge that is going to be installed.. I've already installed my head unit to my center console so my gauges will already have a home!
Any info greatly appreciated.
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#86 by vanbcguy on 30 Jan, 2012 09:29
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Valve cover vent should stay going to the intake - no reason to change it. There were problems with the very early NA engines ingesting engine oil and running away but it shouldn't be an issue if you have the black plastic cover on the cam and a proper oil separator on the valve cover.
Manual boost controller is what you are looking for to increase boost. There's a few styles around. "Bleeder" ones are the most common to pop up on eBay but they're not much good over 15PSI or so. The better ones have a spring and a ball, and only open at a set pressure. Search for "NXS MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER" on eBay and you'll find a good one for about $20. -
#87 by R.O.R-2.0 on 04 Feb, 2012 13:30
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Valve cover vent should stay going to the intake - no reason to change it. There were problems with the very early NA engines ingesting engine oil and running away but it shouldn't be an issue if you have the black plastic cover on the cam and a proper oil separator on the valve cover.
Exactly, Steevz follow this advice.
To do otherwise would be like deliberately spiling 5% of your diesel fuel on the floor each time you fillup [ %'s may vary etc
]
Here's the basic shield reforming technique [maybe I'll insert this in my earlier comment]
FKN PURE GENIUS!!!
i love you dude.. just re-form them about 1mm back from where it was? then keep them matched to the injector/hole they came from?
i really LOVE this forum, its the best forum on the interwebz.. ive learned soo much knowledge from you guys, its GREAT. when i found this forum, injection pumps SCARED the daylights out of me. would never think of adjusting one, let alone modifying one internally! i can take apart and modify bosch VE pumps in my dreams
really tho guys.. we have got ourselves a GEM of a forum, and many AWESOME, extremely knowledgeable users.. as well as a GIRL!! (smart and good looking, rare package)
(i really hope my comments about you dont bother you, Jess.. i just think its soo cool that you like cars, and participate in most of our discussions, as well as NOT AFRAID to dig into a car, and get elbow deep in grease.. i LOVE seeing girls work on cars, especially ones that know what they are doing! anyways, keep up the good, no, GREAT work!)
wow, got a bit of topic there.. sorry about that.. was just admiring our wonderful forum! -
#88 by ORCoaster on 04 Feb, 2012 18:59
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Finally some Kudos for Mark and his re-use of the have to replace heat shields. Moderator can we get that picture as a sticky? I have used this method ever since I saw it posted either here or the other place about a year ago.
Now IF I could just stop loosing that ball bearing to the bottom of my tool box I would be fine. Well better.
DAS
