bigger head.what about the shim to adjust k(or kf)setting?and timing advance?

[carrizog60]

a pic is worth thousand words

i still have to see what spring i have on my pumps,i have the land rover,a 1.6 and 1.9 eco pump.
will source for green or red.

and what about that cover on the pic?
from the outside dimensions i guess i wont need to machine the cover or schim it?

[410]

Is this pump for an idi engine or a di engine?  I quickly looked through your posts but didn't see.  I would use the aaz advance setup for idi and the rover setup for a tdi.  Of course this is just my opinion!  I really have no formal training when it comes to these pumps.  I'll grab that socket today and send some pics.

[carrizog60]

its for a 1.9 td with gt2052 turbo.should be fun

i plan on using the aaz advance parts and the land rover cover for extra travel.
ok,snaped some pics and new questions.



can see that the 11mm plunger has some extra holes in diferents shapes than the gtd one.any special alignment is needed or just align with the pin on the camplate?



the land rover pump missed the small springs on the pump head,is best to use the aaz or 1.6?



here you can see the difference of the land rover and aaz cover being the land rover more than twice as deep.
on the right is the springs.
from left to right is land rover,aaz,1.6gtd.

the land rover is taller than the vw ones.
aaz is silver and gtd is bronze.

if i use vw ones they will float inside the pump...what now?shims to compensate?

and the shim on top of plunger,i will use the one from aaz,as this is the camplate that i will be using,as i thinking right?

[410]

The aaz advance system will be perfect for your application.  I would also use the aaz advance cover as well.  I would use the rover springs with the rover 11mm head but you can also use the aaz springs but they might need to be shimmed to work properly.  There is instructions in the faq section on building an mtdi pump that explains this.  Here is my custom socket for removing the pressure control valve.


Also the plunger from the 11mm head lines up the same way as other plungers although it is possible to install the plunger 180 out.  If there's a keyway on the output shaft it should be in line with the notch for the plunger.

[carrizog60]

410, its for a idi,not tdi.

the springs i am talking about is the small ones that also goes on the head,dont know what they are for,but i dont have the land rover ones because it didnt have them.
i have the aaz and gtd so have to use them.are they the same?

what abou the advance cover?all say that will space the cover to get extra tavel,why do you say not to use the deeper land rover one?
could try to extend the spring to take the extra space but dont know if the strenght would be the same.
will try the 12mm socket trick,hope it works.thanks!

[410]

410, its for a idi,not tdi.

the springs i am talking about is the small ones that also goes on the head,dont know what they are for,but i dont have the land rover ones because it didnt have them.
i have the aaz and gtd so have to use them.are they the same?

what abou the advance cover?all say that will space the cover to get extra tavel,why do you say not to use the deeper land rover one?
could try to extend the spring to take the extra space but dont know if the strenght would be the same.
will try the 12mm socket trick,hope it works.thanks!

I did realize that your pump is for an idi but there is really good info on building "franken" pumps from username hey in the mtdi faq thread that applies to your build as well.  I did misunderstand you for the springs though.  Those small springs from your other pumps should work fine. 

As for the advance covers, the aaz advance setup in stock form gives you 18-20 degrees advance which is probably more than you'll need already.  You can use the rover advance cover and shim the spring to make up the extra distance but there is no real gain that will be useable.

[carrizog60]

ok,thanks.

will use it anyway for the "cool" factor lol


today did the trick on the socket to remove the internal pressure regulator but no luck...itīs so thinght that the socket slips...
it unscrews the regular way right?

another question:
is any benefit to shave a bit on the lda lever or in stock form it allows full fuelling position on the levers?
i already shaved my lda pin to allow more travel but dont know if its enough for the full travel.

[carrizog60]

the distributer must move right?to uncover/cover the hole in the plunger?
the one i have is stuck and is not aligned properly(to the hole on plunger so the levers attach to it) so i cant install it like this.
its safe to use some force and wd40 to twist it?it must move freely right?

and the pressure regulator doesent want to come off...

[mtrans]

it unscrews the regular way right?

Yes, and is safe to use some force and wd40.

[carrizog60]

i was refering to the distributer that goes on the plunger?

the pressure regulator already broke me 2 sockets and dont want to come off...

[carrizog60]

ok,got it unstuck,its free now.

and a quick pic of my governor

[gigaz2]

that's too tight, I use just a shim, but kudos for fighting the damn spring all the way

hit the regulator with a hammer(don't break it though), or heat it, mine was stuck as well

[carrizog60]

it was a pain to put it all back together 

i am affraind of hitting it because i have concerns of changing the load on the spring inside...
heating would damage the seals...

[gigaz2]

they are included on the Bosch rebuild kit

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

i was refering to the distributer that goes on the plunger?

the pressure regulator already broke me 2 sockets and dont want to come off...

Use a 6 point 10 mm socket. Leave 2 opposing flats alone (they fit the 2 flats on the regulator bolt) and use a Dremel with a small diameter grinder (chain saw sharpener bit works well) and grind the other four flats "round" to fit the regulator bolt. Do a little at a time while test fitting it on the bolt. Mine fits perfect and works great.!