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#15
by
maxfax
on 21 Dec, 2010 02:01
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Nothing wrong with using a solvent.. Get the valve closed.. Good ole carb cleaner in an aerosol can should be the ticket to get things loosening.. Since you have the luxury of having the engine out on a stand, tip the engine in such that anything you spray in the port will run out.. Then break out the wire wheel, or weapon of choice.. When you're done break out the compressed air and blow gun.. Repeat as necessary... Maybe a final shot with the carb cleaner to rinse it out, blow it again, bada bing bada boom...
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#16
by
catlin_cava
on 21 Dec, 2010 06:44
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Bottle cleaner brush on the end of a 18V drill made my intake SHINE inside! That's after I had all the big stuff removed
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#17
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Dec, 2010 20:16
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Ok so here is what I did. 24hr soak with some heavy duty cleaning agent, drain, 24hr soak with same agent, drain, lotta gooo came out. One more 24hr soak and screwdriver proding. I am off to the carwash to use a industrial power washer as we speak. And after that I'll prob do another soak and go in to it with a small wire wheel on a movaeble extension. I think it will be awwesome
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#18
by
8v-of-fury
on 29 Dec, 2010 21:35
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Never had to do anything after the heated pressure wash. It came out shining! I will get some pictures.
Also I took Maxfax's advice on turning the cam to block off the ports on 2-3-4 cyl and started going at it in there. Got most of the big stuff out, and as i went to grab my compressor it seems the plastic line that came with it got kinked and has a leak now
however I do not think compressed air will be enough to get this stuff outta the port now.. its pretty gummy stuff.
any other ideas?
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#19
by
maxfax
on 30 Dec, 2010 00:50
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#20
by
Powered by Spearco
on 30 Dec, 2010 01:08
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I have one today that need cleaning. '01 New Beattle ALH.
I've done these many times before. I dig out the hard stuff as much as possable and then soak over night in solvent tank. Then finnish it out with carb/choke cleaner.
Heres some of todays before pics.
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I'll keep this updated tomarrow.
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#21
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Dec, 2010 10:36
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damn that intake is super constricted eh!
I mean for the ports in my head, I have scraped and there is a lot sitting right on the valve head.. I am concerned i will not be able to get it all out. and a solvent i do not wish to put in the head for fear of it seeping past the valve seats.. lol
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#22
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 30 Dec, 2010 12:02
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take the cam out and scrape the crap on/around the top of the valve, then blow it out of the port with compressed air.
or just turn the engine over until the valve is closed on the port your working on..
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#23
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 30 Dec, 2010 12:04
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does pose a problem when your air compressor wont put out enough pressure to blow that crap out.
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#24
by
8v-of-fury
on 30 Dec, 2010 13:26
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Yes, the problem is not the stuff getting in to the cylinder.. Its the stuff not getting out of the port. I really don't want to pull the cam.. I guess ill just have to get something to snake in there and grab it all out..
Fun experience.
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#25
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 30 Dec, 2010 13:47
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squirt some carb cleaner in there, and use a bottle brush and it should loosen all that crap right up. a decent, small sized bottle brush should get right down to the back side of the valve head..
even if you do have to take the cam out, dont worry, just remember you own a VW. be glad it is not a v-tec equipped honda..
its very simple (as im sure you already know) to pull a vw cam..
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#26
by
Powered by Spearco
on 31 Dec, 2010 00:56
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Heres what I got after just scraping and a over night soak in the solvent tank (basicly diesel).
Plus about half a can of Berrymens carb/choke cleaner.
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The head ports were nasty and had hard caked on crud. Pulling the cam is a lot further than I want'ed to go, and rolling the engine over and duct taping the open ports is much faster.
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#27
by
Powered by Spearco
on 31 Dec, 2010 01:08
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I used a long steel pic and some small headed screw drivers to get at it. Then blowing it out with compressed air.
When all was done with the rest of the work I did. One the first start, it blew out alot of black soot. I had checked the VNT before to make sure it move freely, but its been driven like a "Grandma" for all 130K miles. I'm supprised.
It now runs with power and doesn't smoke anymore.
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#28
by
vanagonturbo
on 01 Jan, 2011 19:31
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I use solvent, a parts washer, a drill, and half of an old ebrake cable. Take the end of the cable and slightly unwind it, put it on the drill and go to town!
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#29
by
Powered by Spearco
on 01 Jan, 2011 19:58
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Thats a great idea! I'll try that next time.
