Can't isolate wobble on vibration dampener on AAZ engine. With video! - page 2 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• #15 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 22 Nov, 2010 06:44
• My car doesn't bother with a damper, but if it did,  I guess it operate by slipping/sliding off centre.
  If the damper was the culprit then putting it on a balanced [hopefully] lathe,  wouldn't show up the problem, if it was the action of slipping that was causing the problem, ie if the plates were uneven.
  
  I seem to recall that one of my pulleys jumps slightly, but I think it was merely an unmachined part of the casting.
  It would appear I'd stuffed it in the back of my mind, and forgotten about it until now.
  Closer to the front of my mind, is a picture of how my engine ran with 7 out of 12 rings stuck and some of the compression rings running with a 160 thou clearance...
  
  
  
  I'm sure you'll get the answer soon.
• #16 by GEE-BEE on 22 Nov, 2010 06:44
• Best source : Autotohausaz.com
  dampner
  bolt's are m8 x 45 , I used ARP
  
  GB
• #17 by Henchman on 01 Jan, 2011 07:35
• So I finally got around to replacing the harmonic balancer that I had purchased last month.  Took all but the most minor vibration out of the pulley.  The design of the new balancer differs considerably from the old.
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VmieNycSj8
  
  Not same angle as first vid as it was getting dark, but if you look at the other video's I have posted, you will get a better idea of the wobble.
  
  Ian
• #18 by vanagonturbo on 01 Jan, 2011 12:58
• Have you taken the crank sprocket off and looked at it yet? Thats a pretty scary wobble and its likely that the crank nose is screwed. I would not run the engine another second without looking at that sprocket and the crank nose.
• #19 by ilikevwdiesel on 01 Jan, 2011 14:59
• Hate to be a stinker but your crank nose has taper. The only way you can fix it right is to remove the crank and have it welded and refaced by a machinst. I've seen plenty like that. After it's welded and trued then you cut it for a TDI pulley. If you just grind material off the face of the crank nose to true it the pulleys won't line up correctly and the belts will chafe.
• #20 by ilikevwdiesel on 01 Jan, 2011 16:28
• Quote from: libbybapa on 01 Jan, 2011 16:14

  I've trued up several cranks without any issue with belt alignment.  The factory alignment is often abysmal from the start.  If the belt alignment was affected, then it would be much easier to place machine bushings (fancy washers with accurate thickness) between the crank sprocket and the pulley rather than welding and machining.
  

  
  whatever works for ya bub, as long as the crank snout is the correct length and the face is perpendicular to it.