crank storage/acid dipping

[myvolkswagen]

Basically my engine is apart again and im thinking of getting it acid dipped, however I have no clue how to get the intermediate shaft out and im assuming it should be out for acid dipping or will it be alright? Also, how do you guys store your crank? I heard you have to hang them or something?

[theman53]

The IM shaft will come out with the removal of the vac pump and the two bolts on the seal carrier. I stored my crank just on end, but I am sure whatever you are doing there would be fine.

[myvolkswagen]

thanks. Is acid dipping the best way to degrease an engine? I have yellow blotches of paint on my block and I want to paint it. I also have rocks along the wall of the block I didnt see so im glad I took it apart again. Whats the best way to clean it and get ready for paint

[Baron VonZeppelin]

All the machine shops stand them up on end.
Just not supposed to lay them flat - it can cause it to bend itself - as strange as it sounds/seems.

You'd want the IM shaft and its bearings out before taking it to acid dip.

I wouldn't acid dip one unless it was REALLY Rusty.
Degreasing can be done with much less severity than that.
Mineral spirits and a brush.
GUNK and a garden hose sprayer.
etc....

Rocks on the Wall ?? what ...?

[myvolkswagen]

so i would be alright if i just used mineral spirits and sprayed it off with a pressure washer or something? Inside the block too? wouldn't the water make everything rust? I have no idea I have never done this before so sorry about all the questions

[burn_your_money]

If you spray it with water blow dry it with compressed air and then cover it with WD40. If it's going to be sitting for more then a day with WD40 make sure to oil it up

[myvolkswagen]

thats perfect thanks so much

[Baron VonZeppelin]

If you go the mineral spirits route - you won't need to rinse with water - just blow it out/off with pressed air when done. The odorless and low odor varieties are nice.

If you go GUNK degreaser - followed with pressed water rinse - then do the WD40 internally - and oil rag the bores.
I'd try not to get much WD40 on exterior if going to paint it soon.
But if you do - you could brush on some mineral spirits or lacquer thinner before painting to neutralize the WD40.

Taking to a machine shop is best choice for getting a block cleaned inside and out. Best results on oil passages and water jackets - if those need some special attention.

[Toby]

You guys are pretty superstitious. Store the crank any way you want as long as it is protected from moisture and impacts. It is just plain silly to think that a thick forging like a VW crank is going to bend if laid on its side. Shops store the cranks upright because they get more of them in a give area that way and nothing that falls on them can hit a journal.

As for cleaning the block, just take it to a shop that has an aqueous parts washer. I am sure they have them in the Great White North. I absolutely love mine. I got it from a shop that was closing for $200. I am running on the same detergent charge for a year now. It will clean anything you put in it in about an hour once it is up to temp. I did my smoker grills last time I had it fired up. When I disassemble a motor ALL of the bits go into a basket if they are small. The basket goes into the washer with the head and block.

Acid dipping is usually reserved for de-rusting. If you need to get off the heavy rust, use an electrolytic process. These use a low voltage and washing soda and will dissolve all of the rust in short order.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/

[Rabbit on Roids]

god, rocks and sand in your engine? where do you build your engines? in a rock quarry?

try and keep the abrasives out of the engine next time..